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View Full Version : Inner Diameter of Hilt Piece!



Hitogiri
01-31-2006, 08:52 PM
What is the inner diameter of the hilt piece? I know you told me but I forgot...

Thanks

TimeRender
02-12-2007, 05:44 PM
Greetings all! My name is Fred and I've been lurking here for quite some time. I've looked high and low on the forums and in the store for an answer to Hitogiri's question but have come up empty handed. I'm designing my saber from the inside out, so it is important to me to know for sure that the hilt will be able to accept the size of the components going into it. If anyone can tell me what the ID is I would greatly appreciate it. Many thanks in advance!

Lord Maul
02-12-2007, 05:47 PM
do you mean the hilt piece like this one (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/pc-865-33-double-threaded-hilt-style-4.aspx) or like this one (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/pc-662-33-mhs-ribbed-extension.aspx)?

Firebird21
02-12-2007, 05:49 PM
How accurate do you need it to be?

I don't have a micrometer, but I could give you a good idea with a ruler...


Edit: Maul's right, the Ribbed section is smaller than the rest.

TimeRender
02-12-2007, 05:50 PM
The first of those two Maul. I can tell just from the side view of the ribbed extension piece that it must have a narrow ID.

TimeRender
02-12-2007, 05:50 PM
Within a tenth of an inch should be fine Firebird. Thanks a million!

Firebird21
02-12-2007, 05:54 PM
I'm getting about 1 1/4".

That's with a ruler, so use it a an estimate, but it looked to me to be almost exactly that. Maybe even a hair smaller.

TimeRender
02-12-2007, 05:58 PM
Well the ideal ID for the components I was working with is 1.37, but 1.25 should suffice with a few modifications. That is good news indeed. Thanks again Firebird!

Firebird21
02-12-2007, 06:02 PM
Any time.

Lord Maul
02-12-2007, 06:47 PM
what is the "unit" time render?? :?:
aren't i nosy :roll: :shock:

TimeRender
02-12-2007, 08:25 PM
By "unit" do you mean the sound/light board or something else? I'm hoping to use Erv's new driver for the sound and lights. The other major component that must be designed around is the battery pack, in this case two 3.6 volt rechargeables. With a large enough ID I could have stacked the board on top of one of the two batteries, saving myself a lot of space. With the ID being only 1.25 I won't be able to do this any more. It looks like I should still be able to fit all the guts into the saber, but now I'll have to be a bit more careful about wasting space.

Firebird21
02-12-2007, 08:28 PM
erv's board will fit into the MHS regular hilt sections when attached to Tim's rechargable pack.

Unfortunately Tim's pack is out of stock. But at least that gives you an idea of what works. Somewhere there's a pic erv posted showing you how it fits.

TimeRender
02-12-2007, 08:34 PM
Tim's rechargeable pack also doesn't provide 7.2 volts. What I plan on using isn't exactly a standard battery. The pack I'm using will be just over 4 inches long and .75 in diameter. No worries though, I've been using AutoCad to draw out all of the components and guarantee a good fit. Thanks again for all your help.

Correction, just over 5 inches.

TimeRender
02-12-2007, 08:35 PM
Oh, and I love the squirrel Jedi, firebird. :D

LordArgyll
02-13-2007, 07:15 AM
Are you using Li-Ion 18500s? I have a 7.2v 18650 pack that I wanted to use in my saber, but it got too tight with Corbin's driver and a Hasbro board. I'm hoping that since Erv's board has a narrower footprint that it would also work for me. Those 3.6v batts are chunky.

TimeRender
02-13-2007, 08:08 PM
Those would be the very ones Argyll. They're pretty big around, but they've got more voltage per cubic inch than standard 1.2v AA batteries, so I think in the end it makes more sense. If I can't actually stack the board on top of the batteries I've made sure to have enough room in the hilt to put them end-to-end, but so far things look ok. At .75 of an inch the 3.6v batteries only stick out .06 of an inch more than two AAs placed side by side in a 1.25 ID hilt.