Luxeon K2 info

[Strydur]

-so far ETA looks like March-

Max Lumens compared to 3w - Yes the Amber,Red, and Red-Orange have less output.

<u>K2/3W</u>
45/100 Amber
35/30 Blue
100/80 Cyan
100/80 Green
60/140 Red
60/190 Red-Orange
575mW/450mW Royal Blue
120/80 White

White, Green, Cyan, Blue, Royal Blue
max mA 1500
Forward voltage @ 1500mA 3.85v

Red, Red-Orange, Amber
max mA 700 (hence the lower output)
Forward voltage @ 700mA 3.4v


Tim
The Custom Saber Shop

[LAN-ED-TUL]

looks like white maybe the brighter of the bunch. could go with that and use the color disks then i guess.

You dont know the POWER, of the dark side...

[Jedi Ranger]

Any word on whether they will be available in a "star" format, so we can swap out our Lux IIIs? Or, will a new heat-sink mounting be needed?

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[Strydur]

not yet

Tim
The Custom Saber Shop

[Nightwing]

I'm a little confused. The Royal Blue seems to be on a slightly different measurement. can you explain the difference? Or is it merely there for a ratio?


Oh, and any word on them coming in yet? Last you said was March.

[xwingband]

You can buy the emitter form of K2 now.

I did a bit of research. They use mW because that's how they classify the royal blue when they sort them.

Using the luminous efficacy I can figure out the lumens. Luminous efficacy is lm(lumens)/W. From the chart in their spec sheets the dominant wavelength of 455nm of a Royal Blue is about 50. So if 50 = lm/.575W

Do some math and that makes 28.75 lumens. So indeed it proves the royal blue is weaker. I hope I figured that right...[xx(]

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[Nightwing]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by xwingband
So indeed it proves the royal blue is weaker.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">Holy crap... this is worse than finding out Darth Vader's my father...


NNNOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[xwingband]

Oh brother...[:p] Pick the color you like, not the one with the highest lumens.

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[Nightwing]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by xwingband

Oh brother...[:p] Pick the color you like, not the one with the highest lumens.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">Oh I intend to. But won't it be dimmer? Or does the technical aspect of it not matter so much?

[xwingband]

It's not like EL where you put lime up to red and the red looks bad in comparison. It's just a different color.

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[LAN-ED-TUL]

but they do look dimmer, to me at least.. i can tell the difference in brightness between the red and the blue lux. and the red/orange and either the red or blue. there is a definate brightness output that, at least i, can see. many say you cant tell any difference, but, in my case i do see the levels of brightness between them.



You dont know the POWER, of the dark side...

[Mor-El Kesav]

Try taking off the Darth Vader helmet when you compare the brightness of the blades. [8D] Just take a deep breath and hold it, or check them out in your meditation chamber. [;)]

"Destroy the Sith we must!"
Master Yoda

[Nightwing]

So... it's past March... any word on the K2s yet?

[xwingband]

They have been out for quite a while... just not in a star form.

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[Protein5000]

Kind of off topic but I went to an electronics store here in Melbourne and they sell Lux 3's and 5's.

Guess how much they cost?

3w = $30AUD
5w = $70AUD

Can you believe that? Crikey!

Less talk, more action........

[GFORCE13]

Yep unfortunately you want the newest brightest you got to pay.

" I am a Jedi like my Father before me"
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[WeirdoTransvestite]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Mor-El Kesav

Try taking off the Darth Vader helmet when you compare the brightness of the blades. [8D] Just take a deep breath and hold it, or check them out in your meditation chamber. [;)]
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

Or..*gasp*, Use a Lux 3 Watt.

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[jedijohnson]

Wow, steep, buy AUS they cost alot.

I spoke some more with Ron (tech support) at luxeonstar.com

Says also K2 has a wait right now, like a back order of a couple of months.

He also said since they get alot fo requests for what best to use for sabers, that they were looking to do some testing and get some data soon, on whats best to use.

I dont know what type Tim is selling, the info in the store is not specfic in some ways.

Like the following as I am learning.

Is it a L2 type lens ? or it is a Fraen ? Ron recommends the Fraen lens.

Does anyone know what type tim sells ? I mean I know the guy is trying to sell a product also. But I thought perhaps you knew, if it was the L2 or the Fraen type lens.

I am not intending on buying from luxeon, unless its a item Tim dont offer.

I just dont see it posted on the sale info of the item.

Jedi Johnson

http://home.insightbb.com/~jedijohnson/wsb/html/view.cgi-home.html-.html

[Do-Clo]

The guy from luxeon is going to tell you anything to get your money. Trust Tim, what he sells is the best for sabers at this time and the optic lens that he sells works very good with the saber setup. The K2 may become useful for sabers but right now it only comes in the componet style so it takes some skill to use it in a saber, later if they offer it with a base attached then we will have something to work with.

Do-Clo
Brotherhood of the Sith

Don't make me destroy you...

[xwingband]

Tim sells collumnator lenses. Others uses faern lenses (Ultra I want to say uses or used them), but it doesn't make a difference since the K2's wont fit the standard lenses. I believe they're a slight bit larger.

I also doubt luxeon will be doing saber tests. There's not much to tell. 3W Lambertains are the niche right now because batwings aren't so suited (useable though), and 5W with heat and power requirements are beasts.

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[GanJahMan]

I saw these a month ago, looks like there are K2 stars available, just not all the colors....


http://www.ledsupply.com/k2star.php

[james3]

Good for you diggin' through the old topics. Several of us are aware of that site, keep in mind that right now the only Hi-Test K2's they have right now are white so if you want to do colors it still makes sense to go with 3w or 5w depending on what your doing.

<center>http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e370/Dadof3/kotor2.jpg</center>

[Lord Maul]

i remeber that ulta had a customer that got a white 5w and put a yellow color disk on it to make it a very bright yellow. i bet that would work with the K2s so couldn't you get a high powered white one and put on a disk? ultra said it was brighter than the other colors in three watt even with a color disk

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[james3]

You are now bringing up the same old newb questions maul.

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[Ambo]

<center>http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i313/AmboAW/Retarded-noob.jpg</center>

Edit: pic didnt apply as well as i had liked James....so i doctored it up.....muahahahaha

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<center>Look at my photo album.</center>

[james3]

Do I even want to know what you posted Ambo.

<center>http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e370/Dadof3/kotor2.jpg</center>

[Lord Maul]

i was simply saying james, that it would probably work and be super bright to get the high power white and put on a color disk.

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[james3]

Maul since you know jack**** about building a saber please go sit in the corner and be quiet

<center>http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e370/Dadof3/kotor2.jpg</center>

[Nightwing]

Lol, James, you live up to your title.

[Lord Maul]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Maul since you know jack**** about building a saber please go sit in the corner and be quiet
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

dangit, i got him started [:D][}:)]

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[james3]

...[:0]...What[?]


*************************************Yeah Nightwing, I reckon the shoe fits[;)][:p]

<center>http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e370/Dadof3/kotor2.jpg</center>

[SilentBob501]

Would a white K2 driven off an MR sound board be any brighter than a 3W driven off an MR sound board? And If so it would have to be the high current version, right?

[Ambo]

OK....ill let it out James.....I didnt want to do this untill i aqctually got around to posting pics of my newest conversion...but oh well....whiloe at james this week we tested this also....we dropped a K2 high voltage white into a MHS with a MR sound board, to see if there was a difference.....u decide....both the 3W white and the K2 HV are driven by a MR board.

Against a Mace 3W White:
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i313/AmboAW/IMG_0932.jpg

Against a Maul 3W White:
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i313/AmboAW/IMG_0934.jpg

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[Lord Maul]

nice pics ambo [^]
my eyes tell me that the k2 is slightly brighter than the 3 watter. any other opinions?

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[Oklahoma]

Ok, first post so don't kill me on this and I hate to nitpick on things but I can't seem to let this one go.

One LED will not be brighter than another if driven by the same board. Voltage will turn the LED on but if there is no current it will be VERY dim. Also as it turns out if an LED (K2) is rated for up to 1500mA then it will be its brightest at 1500mA. If you run it at 1000mA like the Luxeon III is rated for they will be the same brightness regardless of the potential. As such if you run a Lux III at 350mA like the Lux I is rated for they will both be the same brightness regardless that the Lux III is a more powerful LED. To get an LED brighter the current in the circuit must change for the brightness to change. SO running a K2 and a Lux V by identical power supplies they will both be the same brightness. To really compare them you would have to run the Lux V at its highest current rating and the K2 at its highest current rating to compare max brightness. You just compared 2 different LEDs running at the same point the K2 can go brighter but only if you give it the juice it needs to run at full potential. It is the same as when a Lux III is put on an MR board it is dimmer than if ran on Corbin's board. This is also why there are 2 versions one for the 1W and one for the 3W LEDs. It all boils down to basic electronics.

A little background I am interested in the sabers and am starting on one of my own and have been doing research on them for a while and came across here and REALLY liked what is offered and will be getting my supplies from here.

[Firebird21]

http://www.gaownersclub.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_welcome.gif

Sounds like you're going to have to run the LED and the S/B in Parallel instead of the LED off of the S/B.

Ambo and James, whoever owns those sabers, can you rewire them and post the results?


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[987654321a]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Lord Maul

nice pics ambo [^]
my eyes tell me that the k2 is slightly brighter than the 3 watter. any other opinions?

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<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">


uhh, thats because it is brighter. havent u read all about the k2? it has the power of a 5w but is cooler than a 3w i think.

I DONT KNOW WHAT WE'RE YELLING ABOUT!!....LOUD NOISES!!!
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[Ambo]

Soooooo...what you are telling me is that it is a figment of my imnagination that the K2 is running more efficently and hence brighter, off the same setup in both sabers off of the same board? Our point wasn't that we are running the K2 at its peak efficency(for we knew we weren't), just that it will run brighter off a MR board and hence another option for some conversions rather than a 3w, for in some conversions there is no room for running a parallel setup. Me pesonally if i see that a K2 will run even a little bit brigter off the MR board i will go with a K2 anyday, due to there being no real cost difference between the two. Again we knew that we would be sorely underdriving the K2 with the board, but being that the K2 is basically a more efficient LED over the 3W we thought there would be no harm in doing the comparison. I still dont see how you can look at the pics and say that the K2 isnt brighter than the 3W........but no skin off my teeth, i have K2 now installed in my Maul conversion and i am very happy with the results because it makes the lee filters look even mor vibrant than wheni had the 3w installed, so basically you can take it as you want, i just was trying to help out and give a decent real world comparison.....BTW....the 5W definately overshadowed the underdriven K2 and made the 3W look sickly.....

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[Madcow]

I'm gonna be doing a white K2 in my Mace conversion soon... accept - I am using a 5 volt relay (thanks Do-Clo)... Then the LED will be driven full out by 4.5 volts with no resistor, not by the MR board. Then the K2 LED can suck all the juice it wants.
I'll post pics when it' done, but I don't have a 3w white to compare anymore.

MC


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You want to go home and re-think your life

[xwingband]

EXACTLY! Ambo is correct. Ever look at the bin varitions? (not bin color) There are three versions of each colored K2. The bottom two both max at 700ma yet one is higher. The answer is it's more efficient at it's job.

I believe in most cases (I'd have to look at the info sheets) that a high amperage K2 will be brighter than the 3W in a conversion. It is definatly a good alternative. I believe you can buy star blanks from ledsupply also so people could go and use them now with a little effort.

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[SilentBob501]

Hey, Madcow could you elaborate a little more on what your doing with your mace conv. I, myself, am doing a mace conv with a K2, (hence why I asked the question)and if you could post diagrams or parts that I might need to do what you are doing. Thanks

[Ambo]

K2 works with Tims Conversion kit just like the 3W LED...just have to make sure the K2 is in the star format.

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[Madcow]

Here's a link to my wiring diagram - I'll use a similar setup for my mace conversion. Just ignore the rechargeable battery etc.
http://rpetkau.photosite.com/~photos/tn/3200012_1024.ts1154738635257.jpg
Save the file, and open it in a program that you can enlarge it.


As I understand it - the LED leads from the MR sound card switch the relay to allow the full current to the K2.

MC

http://rpetkau.photosite.com/~photos/tn/88_348.ts1141004694072.jpg
You want to go home and re-think your life

[Ambo]

Forgot bout the relay route...gonna have to look into that for my two mauls.....ill just have to get the resistors and the relays.

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[Yoiaholic]

Just to update: LED Supply now has High Current Blue and Green in addition to the white they carried before! K2's rock.

_________________________

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[Firebird21]

Please forgive my ignorance...


But what's wrong with just running the LED directly threw the Switch?

Then it will turn on and off with the S/B and run directly off the Batteries (and whatever resistors may be needed).

Only thing I can think of is that the Switch can't handle the load, but I figure it's got to be worth a shot!


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[james3]

Wow! Everytime I am down for some reason we get a surprise in here.

Anyway, first off Firebird there is no reason why you cant run the sound board and LED off of the switch so long as the switch has two pairs of contacts.

Ok now for the K2 tests. First off Oklahoma welcome to TCSS boards. The logic that your using here won't work in this case as like Ambo and xwing pointed out the K2 LEDs are designed to do exactly what they do and that is more mojo in the same package. We could go all day on the technical talk of it but I am not sure all of us would be awake at the end[;)] (OK maybe xwing who is our Joe Friday would enjoy it [:p]) Short version: If you just want to do a straight up conversion without any hoopla then using a K2 will give you a little boost as far as the white goes. I have blue and green coming and will comment to them as well once I have them fired up but the facts are what they are folks, 900ma in to a K2 is brighter then 900ma in to a Lux III.

Now if ya really want a bright saber we can talk 5w...

<center>http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e370/Dadof3/kotor2.jpg</center>

[Madcow]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Firebird21

Please forgive my ignorance...


But what's wrong with just running the LED directly threw the Switch?

Then it will turn on and off with the S/B and run directly off the Batteries (and whatever resistors may be needed).

Only thing I can think of is that the Switch can't handle the load, but I figure it's got to be worth a shot!
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

To add to what James said, there is also the issue of having the blade swich off BEFORE the retraction sound. With the relay - it should act just like using the existing wires.

Here's a link to the 5v relays I just ordered.
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/RLY-470/search/5VDC_SPDT_MINIATURE_RELAY_.html

MC


http://rpetkau.photosite.com/~photos/tn/88_348.ts1141004694072.jpg
You want to go home and re-think your life

[SilentBob501]

But, James, I was under the impression that a 5w cannot even be run off an MR sound board

[xwingband]

Correct, not directly.

<center>Read the FAQ (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=552) or x-wing won't be happy. :(
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[james3]

To clear up my statement I was just leading in to my next post which was the 5w topic, sorry if there was confusion on the issue.

Like I said before I will post up some pics once I get my cable found. I think all will be interested in the white led showdown[8D]

<center>http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e370/Dadof3/kotor2.jpg</center>

[Do-Clo]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by SilentBob501

But, James, I was under the impression that a 5w cannot even be run off an MR sound board
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

With the magic relay you can[:D]

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[Firebird21]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Madcow

the issue of having the blade swich off BEFORE the retraction sound. With the relay - it should act just like using the existing wires.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">


I didn't even think of that...


What relays are you guys talking about? The smallest relay I can think of is an Automotive relay that's roughly 1"x1"x2" and can suck up room in a hilt rather quickly, not to mention the power needed to use it.

Is there a smaller relay, and why doesn't Tim stock them yet?[:p]

Have you read your Thread Index (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=577) today?
FAQ (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=552)
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[Do-Clo]

A 5 volt relay is small enough to fit with out any problem. Tim also doesn't stock the lux drive led drivers either[:(]

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[james3]

I second that. Tim I would love to be able to buy the 700ma and 1000ma wired buckpucks here. I think they would compliment nicely to the resistor as "bare bones regular" setup/ Buckpuck "mid-grade"/ and Corbin's board as the "Supreme". Any possiblities there?

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[LAN-ED-TUL]

so these 5 volt relays will fit in a MR fx saber then, and allow you to run a lux 5 or a k2 instead of a lux 3 in them, cool.

as soon as i can i would like to try that, in a stock mr fx convertion to lux.

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Lan-Ed-Tul
The Brotherhood Of The Sith

You dont know the POWER, of the dark side...