Opinions and Answers Appreciated!

[petriomelony]

Hey all,

So ok, I've been putting this off for long enough... (pretty much since my join date, whenever that was), and I've finally decided to get ordering and started on my bloody saber.

The Plan: Build a replica Graflex from scratch and then convert to an LED saber.

So here's my preliminary list:

tools: dremel, hole tapping set thinger, metal shears for sheet metal... (i've got a power drill and soldering iron already)

the stuff to make the replica (tubing from onlinemetals that has the right wall thickness to almost match a graflex, almost - I figure that having the ID 0.02" larger than the graflex blade holder is better than having it 0.02" smaller and having to sand down the inside of the tube - replica red button, glass eye thumbscrew, grips, replica clamp, sheet metal for the bunny ears, hole plug, d-ring)

not sure whether to go for aluminum or stainless steel tube? the graflica site said there were some problems with electrical resistance welding (ERW) steel tubing that became tarnished when handled (presumably from bodily oils and such). any opinions here? i figure ERW is different from stainless, though.

saber things:
- blade + tip stuff + diffuser - i was thinking of just trying to use clear plastic film like Gelu was doing, i think i liked that one the best out of the comparisons he did... any input here is appreciated though, i'm still not totally sure about the diffuser. i'm prolly going to use the thick-walled blade from the shop, and should i get the mirror instead of the aluminum disc thing for the tip?
- graflex blade holder - not sure how i'm supposed to attach this to the main tube... the thumbscrew hole comes pre-tapped, right? but then i need to tap my own holes for attaching to the graflex? or does it have holes for where screws on the graflex *should* be? i'm not totally sure of the layout of the screws holding the flash-bulb thing in a real graflex, so how should i proceed with the screws for a scratch-replica?
- LED + lens + lens holder - luxeon v star blue, 10 degrees... i wanted green because it's brighter to the eye but figured i'd go for movie accuracy instead. also, i kind of like the base flare from the 10 degrees lens vs the 5.
- batteries + charging port, etc - NiMh 7.2V AA pack + charger... longer lasting, enough voltage to drive the Lux V, and charging convenience. right? or am i totally off here.
- 700 mA buckpuck to drive the Lux V, i figure i'll just go without sound for now. more efficient than just resistor driven, so that's good? i'm not sure whether i need a latching or momentary switch, though (i'm thinking of getting the replica red button that is a switch)... i figured latching, though? my guess is that the buckpuck doesn't have a fancy like, press once for on, hold 2 seconds for off thing like ultrasound does. some clarification would be appreciated, thanks :)

now, do you guys think this will all fit inside the tube (which i believe is supposed to be 10 3/4" long) the blade holder + heatsink takes up like.. 4-5 inches of that, right? the battery pack is another 4", so like 9"... buckpuck looks fairly small, and then recharge port and such + wires inside. i think it should be ok :S

also, i've been reading some posts about heat shrink wrap or something? i'm familiar with electrical tape and its use, but whereabouts would i get this stuff and how do i use it, because i really dislike how slippery electrical tape is + adhesive.

also, does anyone have any familiarity with the graflex clamp? i was wondering if there are little metal bits on the inside of the clamp (because the graflex could be separated into 2, right? so the lever was used to loosen the clamp and then i assume there was some sort of twist + pull system used to lock the two halves into the clamp) since i'm building this just into a sinktube, basically, how should i proceed with this? will the clamp slide cleanly over a tube or will i have to cut the tube in half and then cut slots in it? should i just permanently attach the clamp and remove the pommel hole plug when/if i need repairs/battery replacement and such? i suppose with a rechargable pack that will be rare enough to not have to worry too often...

so ok, that was long. maybe you can tell i've been researching this stuff (what i like to think, anyways) a fair bit. but there's still quite a bit i don't know, evidently. i appreciate your input, and i thank you in advance :)

[Jonitus]

Go to onlinemetals.com and get yourself a foot long section of 1.5" OD 0.065" wall stainless steel tubing. The Graflex LED/bladeholder will fit in so nicely you won't believe it.

Stainless is FAR different than ERW tubing. Stainless is very resistant to corrosion.

[petriomelony]

Go to onlinemetals.com and get yourself a foot long section of 1.5" OD 0.065" wall stainless steel tubing. The Graflex LED/bladeholder will fit in so nicely you won't believe it.

Stainless is FAR different than ERW tubing. Stainless is very resistant to corrosion.

That's the one i was debating, Jonitus... with 1.5" OD and a 0.065" wall, it boils down to 1.37" ID... and Tim told me (when i asked) that the OD of the graflex holder is 1.39"? but if you say it works, that's wicked news :) I remember when i asked a while back, someone told me you had built custom sabers with the graflex holder. I'm glad someone else has had some experience with it before me :)

*edit* oh, also, do i have to sand the outside to get the right finish? or does it just come fairly shiny?

*edit again* blah, also, how do you usually attach the holder to the tube?

[Jonitus]

Your other option (and cheaper option) is to find a 17 gauge sinktube and make your Graflex replica out of that.

I had no problems with the stuff from online metals, but my batch might not be the exact same as yours. Even so, sanding 0.002" is no big deal. It's the thickness of a human hair. Easy work with some wet/dry sandpaper.

[Jonitus]

Go to onlinemetals.com and get yourself a foot long section of 1.5" OD 0.065" wall stainless steel tubing. The Graflex LED/bladeholder will fit in so nicely you won't believe it.

Stainless is FAR different than ERW tubing. Stainless is very resistant to corrosion.

That's the one i was debating, Jonitus... with 1.5" OD and a 0.065" wall, it boils down to 1.37" ID... and Tim told me (when i asked) that the OD of the graflex holder is 1.39"? but if you say it works, that's wicked news :) I remember when i asked a while back, someone told me you had built custom sabers with the graflex holder. I'm glad someone else has had some experience with it before me :)

*edit* oh, also, do i have to sand the outside to get the right finish? or does it just come fairly shiny?

The stuff from onlinemetals needs some work with sandpaper to get it looking nice. I'd recommend a sink of warm water with a bit of soap, than work it over with 220, 320, 400, 600 and 800 grit wet/dry sandpaper. If you're going for an OT look to your Graflex replica, an 800 grit finish will be a very close approximation to the finish on a Graflex.

[petriomelony]

ohkay, that's super! thanks

mayyybe you didn't see my other edit, but i would really love to know how you usually attach the graflex holder to the tube?

[Jonitus]

Attach the holder to the tube with a 6-32 button head screw, like the ones sold here in the shop. Also with the replica red button and glass eye, the blade holder ought not to go anywhere.

[petriomelony]

Attach the holder to the tube with a 6-32 button head screw, like the ones sold here in the shop. Also with the replica red button and glass eye, the blade holder ought not to go anywhere.

Is there a best location to put this screw? and i'll need to tap the hole in the holder myself, right?

also, my red button will prolly be a switch instead of a thumbscrew, is there room underneath there for wires to run down past the holder? the picture in the shop only shows the view from the glass eye side.

[petriomelony]

also, it doesn't look like the 6-32 button head is in stock anymore or something... so i'll prolly just pick that up from a hardware store. if i get one that's too long, i can always cut it down to size, right?

[Jonitus]

There is a milled groove for wires to run on the red button side of the holder.

The holder already has a drilled and tapped hole for the 6-32 screw. You would drill it where the template says (you do have a template, right?)

If you get one too long, you can always cut it down. If you have an Ace hardware in your town, try them for the screw; they seem to have a nice stock of stuff like that.

[petriomelony]

the template i am using does not have holes labelled and such... it's the "Reflex Prototype" template from graflica, the blue/grey one. if you have any suggestion on another one to use, i'd be grateful :)

no ace hardware, unfortunately. I've been fairly unsatisfied with the hardware stores around here, they don't have that great of a selection in terms of tubing and whatnot (Home Depot and such). however, Lowes is opening their first stores in Canada in december or someodd, so that'll be nice :) i can pick up some d-rings there, hopefully... i can't find those buggers anywhere. same with the hole plug, but i can order both those from the TCSS store, actually. i'm sure home depot will have the screw i need... hopefully, anyways.

ok, milled groove, that's awesome. how do you feel about the holder being steel compared to the original graflex flash bulb holder black colour? i've seen some holders online that were anodized black, but the people selling didn't look quite as appealing as TCSS.

pre-tapped hole, also awesome :) one screw + thumbscrew is really enough? that sounds pretty spectacular.

[petriomelony]

yea, actually, i don't think the template i have even has markings for the glass eye, unless it's that tiny little hole in the middle, but i thought it was somewhat recessed, not just sitting on the surface.

do you have any suggestions for drill bits and things?

[Jonitus]

yea, actually, i don't think the template i have even has markings for the glass eye, unless it's that tiny little hole in the middle, but i thought it was somewhat recessed, not just sitting on the surface.

do you have any suggestions for drill bits and things?

Here's the template I use:

http://www.elvistrooper.com/dvrotj/temp.htm

Skip the holes outlined in black - that's for the ROTJ conversion. All else is what you need.

If this is a hobby you want to get serious about, get yourself a nice set of drill bits and a set of taps.

My first set of drill bits was a Black and Decker set that ran me $20. My set of taps (that I still use to this day) cost around the same, but is has the drill bits needed for the various taps (4-40, 6-32, 8-32, 10-24, 10-32). It even has a tap handle.

[petriomelony]

wow, i've definitely printed that out once before, like last year or something. i assume the large hole at the top is the red button, two holes on the side are for the brass pin places, and then the last big hole is the glass eye? what do you think of the S-cut shape from that template? it looks a little flat at the tip, in my opinion... but maybe it's better when it's actually cut out.

yea, my dad has a set of fairly comprehensive drill bits i could use, i believe... i'm thinking of getting a good set of files to use as well. and definitely the tap set.

[Jonitus]

wow, i've definitely printed that out once before, like last year or something. i assume the large hole at the top is the red button, two holes on the side are for the brass pin places, and then the last big hole is the glass eye? what do you think of the S-cut shape from that template? it looks a little flat at the tip, in my opinion... but maybe it's better when it's actually cut out.

yea, my dad has a set of fairly comprehensive drill bits i could use, i believe... i'm thinking of getting a good set of files to use as well. and definitely the tap set.

I think the s-shape on this template is better than most. I still round the front just a tad bit more.

Yep, get yourself a good set of jeweler's files. They come in so handy. I bought my set out of a bargain bin at a farm and ranch store for $1. They are fine enough to not just shred metal, and small enough I can do detail work.

[petriomelony]

oh i just thought of something! will the shop's 1-3/8" end cap fit the tube? because it has a thicker wall than most sink tubes, right? ok i just calculated it to be 1.375 compared to the ID of 1.37... should be ok.