petriomelony
10-23-2007, 07:32 AM
Hey all,
So ok, I've been putting this off for long enough... (pretty much since my join date, whenever that was), and I've finally decided to get ordering and started on my bloody saber.
The Plan: Build a replica Graflex from scratch and then convert to an LED saber.
So here's my preliminary list:
tools: dremel, hole tapping set thinger, metal shears for sheet metal... (i've got a power drill and soldering iron already)
the stuff to make the replica (tubing from onlinemetals that has the right wall thickness to almost match a graflex, almost - I figure that having the ID 0.02" larger than the graflex blade holder is better than having it 0.02" smaller and having to sand down the inside of the tube - replica red button, glass eye thumbscrew, grips, replica clamp, sheet metal for the bunny ears, hole plug, d-ring)
not sure whether to go for aluminum or stainless steel tube? the graflica site said there were some problems with electrical resistance welding (ERW) steel tubing that became tarnished when handled (presumably from bodily oils and such). any opinions here? i figure ERW is different from stainless, though.
saber things:
- blade + tip stuff + diffuser - i was thinking of just trying to use clear plastic film like Gelu was doing, i think i liked that one the best out of the comparisons he did... any input here is appreciated though, i'm still not totally sure about the diffuser. i'm prolly going to use the thick-walled blade from the shop, and should i get the mirror instead of the aluminum disc thing for the tip?
- graflex blade holder - not sure how i'm supposed to attach this to the main tube... the thumbscrew hole comes pre-tapped, right? but then i need to tap my own holes for attaching to the graflex? or does it have holes for where screws on the graflex *should* be? i'm not totally sure of the layout of the screws holding the flash-bulb thing in a real graflex, so how should i proceed with the screws for a scratch-replica?
- LED + lens + lens holder - luxeon v star blue, 10 degrees... i wanted green because it's brighter to the eye but figured i'd go for movie accuracy instead. also, i kind of like the base flare from the 10 degrees lens vs the 5.
- batteries + charging port, etc - NiMh 7.2V AA pack + charger... longer lasting, enough voltage to drive the Lux V, and charging convenience. right? or am i totally off here.
- 700 mA buckpuck to drive the Lux V, i figure i'll just go without sound for now. more efficient than just resistor driven, so that's good? i'm not sure whether i need a latching or momentary switch, though (i'm thinking of getting the replica red button that is a switch)... i figured latching, though? my guess is that the buckpuck doesn't have a fancy like, press once for on, hold 2 seconds for off thing like ultrasound does. some clarification would be appreciated, thanks :)
now, do you guys think this will all fit inside the tube (which i believe is supposed to be 10 3/4" long) the blade holder + heatsink takes up like.. 4-5 inches of that, right? the battery pack is another 4", so like 9"... buckpuck looks fairly small, and then recharge port and such + wires inside. i think it should be ok :S
also, i've been reading some posts about heat shrink wrap or something? i'm familiar with electrical tape and its use, but whereabouts would i get this stuff and how do i use it, because i really dislike how slippery electrical tape is + adhesive.
also, does anyone have any familiarity with the graflex clamp? i was wondering if there are little metal bits on the inside of the clamp (because the graflex could be separated into 2, right? so the lever was used to loosen the clamp and then i assume there was some sort of twist + pull system used to lock the two halves into the clamp) since i'm building this just into a sinktube, basically, how should i proceed with this? will the clamp slide cleanly over a tube or will i have to cut the tube in half and then cut slots in it? should i just permanently attach the clamp and remove the pommel hole plug when/if i need repairs/battery replacement and such? i suppose with a rechargable pack that will be rare enough to not have to worry too often...
so ok, that was long. maybe you can tell i've been researching this stuff (what i like to think, anyways) a fair bit. but there's still quite a bit i don't know, evidently. i appreciate your input, and i thank you in advance :)
So ok, I've been putting this off for long enough... (pretty much since my join date, whenever that was), and I've finally decided to get ordering and started on my bloody saber.
The Plan: Build a replica Graflex from scratch and then convert to an LED saber.
So here's my preliminary list:
tools: dremel, hole tapping set thinger, metal shears for sheet metal... (i've got a power drill and soldering iron already)
the stuff to make the replica (tubing from onlinemetals that has the right wall thickness to almost match a graflex, almost - I figure that having the ID 0.02" larger than the graflex blade holder is better than having it 0.02" smaller and having to sand down the inside of the tube - replica red button, glass eye thumbscrew, grips, replica clamp, sheet metal for the bunny ears, hole plug, d-ring)
not sure whether to go for aluminum or stainless steel tube? the graflica site said there were some problems with electrical resistance welding (ERW) steel tubing that became tarnished when handled (presumably from bodily oils and such). any opinions here? i figure ERW is different from stainless, though.
saber things:
- blade + tip stuff + diffuser - i was thinking of just trying to use clear plastic film like Gelu was doing, i think i liked that one the best out of the comparisons he did... any input here is appreciated though, i'm still not totally sure about the diffuser. i'm prolly going to use the thick-walled blade from the shop, and should i get the mirror instead of the aluminum disc thing for the tip?
- graflex blade holder - not sure how i'm supposed to attach this to the main tube... the thumbscrew hole comes pre-tapped, right? but then i need to tap my own holes for attaching to the graflex? or does it have holes for where screws on the graflex *should* be? i'm not totally sure of the layout of the screws holding the flash-bulb thing in a real graflex, so how should i proceed with the screws for a scratch-replica?
- LED + lens + lens holder - luxeon v star blue, 10 degrees... i wanted green because it's brighter to the eye but figured i'd go for movie accuracy instead. also, i kind of like the base flare from the 10 degrees lens vs the 5.
- batteries + charging port, etc - NiMh 7.2V AA pack + charger... longer lasting, enough voltage to drive the Lux V, and charging convenience. right? or am i totally off here.
- 700 mA buckpuck to drive the Lux V, i figure i'll just go without sound for now. more efficient than just resistor driven, so that's good? i'm not sure whether i need a latching or momentary switch, though (i'm thinking of getting the replica red button that is a switch)... i figured latching, though? my guess is that the buckpuck doesn't have a fancy like, press once for on, hold 2 seconds for off thing like ultrasound does. some clarification would be appreciated, thanks :)
now, do you guys think this will all fit inside the tube (which i believe is supposed to be 10 3/4" long) the blade holder + heatsink takes up like.. 4-5 inches of that, right? the battery pack is another 4", so like 9"... buckpuck looks fairly small, and then recharge port and such + wires inside. i think it should be ok :S
also, i've been reading some posts about heat shrink wrap or something? i'm familiar with electrical tape and its use, but whereabouts would i get this stuff and how do i use it, because i really dislike how slippery electrical tape is + adhesive.
also, does anyone have any familiarity with the graflex clamp? i was wondering if there are little metal bits on the inside of the clamp (because the graflex could be separated into 2, right? so the lever was used to loosen the clamp and then i assume there was some sort of twist + pull system used to lock the two halves into the clamp) since i'm building this just into a sinktube, basically, how should i proceed with this? will the clamp slide cleanly over a tube or will i have to cut the tube in half and then cut slots in it? should i just permanently attach the clamp and remove the pommel hole plug when/if i need repairs/battery replacement and such? i suppose with a rechargable pack that will be rare enough to not have to worry too often...
so ok, that was long. maybe you can tell i've been researching this stuff (what i like to think, anyways) a fair bit. but there's still quite a bit i don't know, evidently. i appreciate your input, and i thank you in advance :)