Sculpted hilt

[valeon]

I first off want to say that the idea is inspired by arkai's protosaber. I have been on the quest for something different/original. I have parts ordered to make my next saber, which was originally going to just be a sink tube LED saber with Erv's board. Now I figure I would go one step further and after constructing the hilt, and use polymer clay aka "sculpey". My mother is really big into polymer modeling and I have seen how easy it is to encase something (pens, pencils, lamps, etc) in the clay. She is REALLY creative with the stuff. I'm just going to take a leaf from her book and go nuts with the stuff, and make something nice and origonal. Now the whole point of the thread is to get ideas for the design, (modern look, protosaberish, metallic looking, whatever floats your boat), suggestions beforehand, and critique when it is finalized/baked.


And now, a little info on what I have ordered/planned. I have a Green 5w Lux V electronics kit on the way along with a chrome sink tube. When it becomes available, I want to use Erv's board and his LED battery indicator, the one that looks like an equalizer.

Now I also have some questions. With Erv's board, how many auxiliary buttons are needed for blade lock, blaster deflect and such. Also, what kind of switches should be used. This includes the power button. I'm just curious if there is anything special that must be done.

With all that said, leave feedback, ideas and CONSTRUCTIVE criticism. I really don't want any flaming for my lack of knowledge. Remember, the more you tell me, the more I'll know, and the less I will ask in the future.

Thanks.

[ArkaiHalon]

Let me know how well the sculpey works, I'm still trying to decide between it and an air dry clay instead.

as for design, maybe a "scale" type look.

[valeon]

I'm gonna probably test a ring of it out, and see how it does after baking, considering I'm baking it around metal hehe.

[TimeRender]

My experience with polymers is that they are prone to cracking if they are baked with any sort of solid understructure. They can also shrink a bit, so be careful. Some of this risk can be alleviated by allowing the pieces to cool slowly after baking. Once baked, they are usually still quite fragile and may not be very good for a saber. However, you could use the clay to make a prototype and then make a mold of it. A final piece cast in resin would be pretty solid. Another thing to keep in mind is that it can be difficult to get smooth surfaces on a polymer while it is still pliable, but once it has been baked they are easy to sand and carve. Don't bother adding too much detail until after you take them out of the oven and let them cool. It sounds like your mother probably has more experience in this than I do, but I figured I would post what I know. Cheers!

Edit: Oh, and last I checked the Erv board still only uses two buttons.

[Angelus Lupus]

You just need one (momentary as far as I know) aux button. A quick press does blaster and a hold does blade lock. The same button also works the menu.

As for design ideas, you could go really nuts organic-wise, a twisted wooden look, or maybe rock. Heck, if you were going evil (but you're not) why not bone?

[valeon]

Hmm, I had put some thought into the shrinkage. I could use an Air dry clay and resin coat when Im done, I have an entire can of resin and curer in my garage left from helping my friend with his body kit. We'll see how some of my tests go.

[ArkaiHalon]

as for design, here's my current proto2 concept
http://www.k-squared.com/Lightsabers/proto2concept1.jpg

[valeon]

Oh wow, I love the finger guards. I love how the old proto sabers looked almost alive.

[ArkaiHalon]

I think that's what grabbed me.
What size sink tube are you using? I'm building proto2 on a 1.25.

[valeon]

Same here, had to fit the 1.25 LED blade holder of course ^_^