PDA

View Full Version : Protosaber 2 (in progress)



ArkaiHalon
10-01-2007, 07:27 AM
After completing the protosaber, I have to admit, I'm a little underwhelmed with myself. Although it turned out ok, I'm just not satisfied with the hilt.

I'm pretty happy with the belt pack, but I'm starting construction on a new hilt. planning to run a cyan lux III, and build it around a 1.25 inch sink tube.
Now comes the part where i need suggestions...

I'm going to use apoxie sculpt to give it a more organic feel, beyond that, i've got 2 ideas for blade holders.

http://k-squared.com/Lightsabers/proto2%20concepts.JPG


Suggestions|?

Jonitus
10-01-2007, 08:49 AM
Personally, I would use the 1.25" blade holder and then build up your Apoxie Sculpt over the entire hilt.

Hasid Lafre
10-01-2007, 12:13 PM
^agreed

Barmic Rin
10-01-2007, 12:19 PM
Or epoxy over the BH 7?
Done right, that could rock!

Jonitus
10-01-2007, 12:20 PM
Perhaps even better:

Wrap a layer or two of plastic wrap over your sinktube while sculpting and baking, that way your shell will come off the tube, so you can get to the internals of the saber if you want to upgrade it down the road or if you need to make repairs.

Barmic Rin
10-01-2007, 12:25 PM
Modular Epoxy skins?

Jonitus
10-01-2007, 12:32 PM
Yes indeed. It's an idea I have toyed around with doing, but just haven't found the time in between customer projects to try out.

ArkaiHalon
10-01-2007, 12:43 PM
very interesting concept. can have a "new" skin, and a "weathered" skin.

might be something for me to try out. according to ApoxieSculpt's box, it's air dry and can be drilled and tapped. Ideas are forming.

Barmic Rin
10-01-2007, 12:56 PM
Wasn't Maul going to try it with his 'chicken saber' when Erv first announced CF?

ArkaiHalon
10-26-2007, 03:38 PM
hehehehehehehehehe.

UPS.com
Type: Package
Status: Delivered
Delivered On: 10/26/2007
4:39 P.M.
Delivered To: GRAND PRAIRIE, TX, US
Service: 3 DAY SELECT

ArkaiHalon
10-29-2007, 02:25 PM
Got my parts, and have started on the new protohilt.

You'll notice that the switch is in a trigger position instead of standard \.
going to start sculpting this coming weekend.

http://www.k-squared.com/Lightsabers/Protosaber/proto2underframe.JPG

valeon
10-29-2007, 10:51 PM
I REALLY like where your going with this, its gonna look just like in the comics....make sure it looks like its made from raw materials, almost rocky.

Novastar
10-29-2007, 11:54 PM
Cool Arkai! And like I said... I'm *almost* there on having the free moments to send you some parts... :)

Can't wait to see your finished product... and the "along the way" shots!

alpine
10-30-2007, 05:09 AM
this is becoming an intresting protohilt i cant wait to see it totally finished

ArkaiHalon
10-30-2007, 06:08 AM
Thanks all for the feed back. little bit of info on what's going on so far.

I"m usingin a 1.25 sinktube (obviously), with a 1.25 inch blade holder.
Instead of the button head screws that come with the holder, i'm using .5 inch set screws that will serve to hold theblade holder, and also give the clay something to hold on to. By using them that long, I'll be able to leave a small amount of the screw uncovered so i can remove the blade holder if repairs are needed.

Inside, it's running a royal blue luxIII (i really like that color) direct drive on 4AAA. I'm holding off on putting a puck or anythinglike that in it until I can see about scrounging up enough money to try and get my hands on an older CF to run the ancient saber sound font.

valeon
10-30-2007, 03:00 PM
PLEASE make sure you do progress shots on the clay molding, I wanna see step by step, this is turning into a REALLY cool project.

ArkaiHalon
11-09-2007, 06:40 PM
Update.

I bought some (what i thought was good) non polymer clay. Sucked. Cracked. Fell apart. messy.

But none of the hobby shops around here carry polymer clay that doesnt' require baking. Given the design of this saber, putting it in the oven is NOT an option.

so I've found apoxie "fixit"* online, but it comes in 2 sizes, 1/4lb, or 1lb.

anybody got a clue how far 1/4lb would go?

*according to Apoxie sculpts website, the fixit stuff is capable of being drilled and tapped.

JadedMonk
11-09-2007, 07:04 PM
I would expect 1/4lb to be plenty. It is the nature of polymer clays, they have to be cured by heat. You might also consider anyone of the "plumber's putties," available at any hardware store. I believe JB Weld makes one that is very much like metal when cured.

Cheers!

JM

ArkaiHalon
11-09-2007, 09:59 PM
cool I'll give it the 1/4 a shot. per the website, it's 0shrinkage, and air drys fully cured in 24 hours.

ArkaiHalon
11-30-2007, 09:58 AM
Update again

Finally found some Apoxie Sculpt on Ebay that didn't cost more for shipping than for the product.

I did test of it around the sink tube, wanted to see:
cure time, hardness, shrinkage.

24 hrs later, it's rock hard, no shrinkage at all, it even kept the full detail of my finger prints. So this should work out great. I'll update more as I get farther along in sculpting.

Ghostbat
11-30-2007, 11:31 AM
because I love you all I will tell you my secret source of Epoxy putty.

Pool supply stores.

Yes! for usually under $20 you can get a pound of putty comparable in performance and texture to hobby epoxies that go for $20 an ounce.

Usually just calld A+B epoxy, or tile repair epoxy. It's not metal filled so you wouldn't repair your engine with it, but it's still pretty tough.

pipster79
11-30-2007, 04:52 PM
Arkai....im curious, was the first batch of epoxy putty you tried (that cracked and fell apart) a type you have to mix? if so you used to much hardener...if you use to much, sure its gonna harden faster but you will actualy loose strenth. if you use to little, it will remain more flexible. You want to use the proper amount or just a little bit less for it to be ideal and strong so it wont break under use.
basicaly the same idea as bondo or body filler, many people think if they use more hardener it will make it stronger and harden faster, where really it makes it more prone to breakage

ArkaiHalon
11-30-2007, 05:18 PM
first batch was a one part air dry clay (no mixing required). On the box it says it drys to rock hard consistency. I dont' think it was meant to be wraped around a sink tube.

The Apoxie Sculpt on the other hand is perfect.

pipster79
11-30-2007, 05:21 PM
maybe you just got a bad batch the first time then. Possible it sat around to long on a shelf somewhere before you bought it.
Oh well, glad the new stuff is workin out for you, cant wait to see how it looks

Ghostbat
11-30-2007, 05:41 PM
I have yet to see an air dry clay that has any real durability, even the heat cured polymer clays are pretty brittle. Epoxy is the way to go for anything that's going to be handled much.

Barmic Rin
12-01-2007, 02:21 PM
I'm gonna give this ago for my Sith Legacy saber.

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=43442&criteria=epoxy&doy=1m12

Normally used for filling holes etc, but since I got it cheap, it's no too bad if it screws up!

God bless staff discount!

Angelus Lupus
12-01-2007, 05:59 PM
Staff discount, hmm? That's worth knowing. :twisted:

Barmic Rin
12-03-2007, 03:28 PM
For what little it's worth.

Any parts that could be used for sabers, we no longer stock, except battery boxes, & wire. Plus the occasional gem like my new case for my collection, & the occasional bit like this putty.

We stopped selling Luxeons about a year ago. Still, Tim & Erv get more cash from me!

DarrynVarson117
12-03-2007, 06:51 PM
I honestly look forward to seeing where this goes. Really nice idea.

ArkaiHalon
12-11-2007, 09:07 PM
*update*

Progress has been much slower on this than planned due to life happening.
To recap the last few weeks....

I've assembled the electronics, and replaced the resistor with a buck puck.
I redid the hand guard frame, as I was unhappy with placement of a couple of points.

Started sculpting it Sunday night. I wish to say that the Apoxie Sculpt lives up to its packaging. This stuff is harder than rock when it cures, with zero shrinkage, and can be drilled and tapped. And for durabilty, my son hit the hand guard with his saber full tilt (anybody ever dueled with a 4 year old understands that they hold NOTHING back in a swing). didn't even scratch it. Bear in mind the hand guard is a 1/16th inch thick coating on a wire hanger.

I'll post a couple of progress shots of the sculpting in progress. Far from done, but... I had to take it outside last night (had a cold front come through with lots of fog). LOTS of fun.

ArkaiHalon
12-11-2007, 09:15 PM
http://www.k-squared.com/Lightsabers/Protosaber/proto2sculpt1.JPG

http://www.k-squared.com/Lightsabers/Protosaber/demo.JPG

Kabraxxis
12-11-2007, 09:36 PM
...That's damn impressive. Kudos on your work Arkai!!! How did you achieve the light-up hose?

Lord Maul
12-11-2007, 09:40 PM
That thing is sweet Arkai. Ingenious using the clothes hanger as a frame for the apoxie sculpt.

xwingband
12-11-2007, 09:43 PM
...That's damn impressive. Kudos on your work Arkai!!! How did you achieve the light-up hose?

It's EL wire. Look up the other thread about his first "proto-saber".

I would love to get an artist at this or try my hand at it. Too many projects...

How's the durability of the wire like guard?

ArkaiHalon
12-12-2007, 08:14 AM
I haven't finished sculpting it yet, but I've given it a couple of durability tests.

1. Had my 4 year old hit it with another light saber with everything he's got.
not even a scratch.

2. dropped it from about 5 feet to thefloor of my garage. nothing.

So far, the apoxie sculpt is AMAZING in it's durability. Not that I want to take a sledge hammer to it, but I have a feeling it will keep my hands safe in dueling.

ArkaiHalon
12-20-2007, 12:25 PM
Finally finished sculpting it last night. (pics to follow)

As the answer to how far will .25 pound of apoxie sculpt go, it was enough for me to finish, and none left.

Next step is to paint it up. I'm leaning towards a copper color with black weathering and accents.

ArkaiHalon
02-17-2008, 07:27 AM
Ok, after a few months, I've finally finished.
Final construction was held up by deciding the paint scheme, and finally getting the blade. I decided to use a 3/4 in thin wall, with 4 feet of cellophane. didn't use any other wrap or sand the blade to diffuse it further, as i want to to look "unrefined". At this point, I have not weathered it.


To answer the durability questions (I've been playing with this thing ALOT over the last couple of months) the apoxie sculpt holds up very well. The thicker it is, or the better supported, the better it holds up. The only areas I've had break are a small chip at the end of the blade holder, a hairline crack at the seam where the blade holder goes into the tube, and again at the center guard joint. Also a small piece of the hand guard wrap popped off, but in fairness, it wasn't very well adhered to the guard itself. It's proven itself to me to be a good medium for saber building. on the the pictures...

http://k-squared.com/Lightsabers/Protosaber/1.JPG
http://k-squared.com/Lightsabers/Protosaber/2.JPG
http://k-squared.com/Lightsabers/Protosaber/3.JPG
http://k-squared.com/Lightsabers/Protosaber/4.JPG

Treadingwolf
02-17-2008, 09:45 AM
Nice work Arkai ! I love that hand guard and the power cable. The color scheme over the sculpting really gives it an organic look. I like it. :D

Dandura
02-23-2008, 10:16 PM
sick I've wanted to see a lightsaber built like the OLD sabers, before they had in hilt power, cool Idea. Good color but it looks a bit too plain. Maybe drybrush some accents on in a bleached bone color and re clear coat. Perhaps add some blue-green veins and paint the twist around the handgaurd similarly? but really cool nontheless!

Hasid Lafre
02-23-2008, 10:44 PM
IS that just a single strangd of el wire in the cable?

Have you thought of how to carry it on a belt?

ArkaiHalon
02-24-2008, 07:06 AM
Dandura

I do think it's a little plain, just havent' decided just how to spruce it up. After viewing TreadingWolf's, I thought about repainting it a bronze color with a pearl top coat. I'm more wanting it to look like coral or rock than "alive"

Hasid

It is a single strand of el wire. as for keeping it on my belt, i have two footman loops riveted on to the back of the case. doesnt' work with my normal jedi belt, but fits great on my regular belt. I'm also thinking about attatching a covertec wheel to the back of the case, and adding a small d ring to the saber.

If and when I do either the repaint or the belt hooks, i'll post new pix.

Novastar
02-24-2008, 02:53 PM
Oh DANG! I forgot to check this thread a bit more, and now I come here and suddenly.... WHOA!

Nice work, Arkai... :)

Actually, I've been hoping to get some information on and/or make my own... light whip in the future. Although I don't think it has to be lit for my future Indiana Jones CF sound font, heheh.

Still... a "flame whip" might be nice, heheh

Great stuff--it looks pretty neat...

Dandura
02-24-2008, 04:49 PM
Oh then maybe some pastel colors like in coral reefs or something, just a suggestion.

Nova I was thinking about the lightwhip the other day, I thought of using a long strand of EL and cutting some blades into small peices to make something similar to those plastic jump ropes they have at schools.

ArkaiHalon
02-24-2008, 05:21 PM
the vinyl tubing i used would make pretty good lightwhip.

a bit of fun on this, the "power pack" cable will attach to any saber using a 1.25 inch sinktube like sold in the shop.

Dandura
02-24-2008, 07:50 PM
Of course it would, but I was just saying
that for if you wanted a thicker, more saber blade sized whip.

ArkaiHalon
03-21-2008, 12:36 PM
Sorry to revive an old thread, but I read in the concept and sketches thread in the gallery that Darth Relin had not seen an old school protosaber.


Ok, after a few months, I've finally finished.
Final construction was held up by deciding the paint scheme, and finally getting the blade. I decided to use a 3/4 in thin wall, with 4 feet of cellophane. didn't use any other wrap or sand the blade to diffuse it further, as i want to to look "unrefined". At this point, I have not weathered it.


To answer the durability questions (I've been playing with this thing ALOT over the last couple of months) the apoxie sculpt holds up very well. The thicker it is, or the better supported, the better it holds up. The only areas I've had break are a small chip at the end of the blade holder, a hairline crack at the seam where the blade holder goes into the tube, and again at the center guard joint. Also a small piece of the hand guard wrap popped off, but in fairness, it wasn't very well adhered to the guard itself. It's proven itself to me to be a good medium for saber building. on the the pictures...

http://k-squared.com/Lightsabers/Protosaber/1.JPG

http://k-squared.com/Lightsabers/Protosaber/3.JPG
http://k-squared.com/Lightsabers/Protosaber/4.JPG

http://www.k-squared.com/Lightsabers/Protosaber/demo.JPG

Barmic Rin
03-21-2008, 03:37 PM
He He! You look like a ghost buster! LOL!

Seriously though, what paint you using on your hilt? I wanna give my Legacy sith saber a very light coat of charcoal/black so that the epoxy i'm using doesn't make it look like a floater...

ArkaiHalon
03-21-2008, 08:04 PM
the copper is from a kit for doing "antique". It's got little flecks of copper in the paint itself. Has a nice sheen to it evenwithout the clear coat.

The black, believe it or not, is just plain old sharpie. makes touch ups easy too.

Maven
07-10-2009, 10:03 PM
that is very creative!! good idea! My wife specializes in Polymer clay (she makes flowers, not lightsabers...) so... yeah, any questions i can get the answer...

Obi-Dar Ke-Gnomie
07-11-2009, 02:28 PM
Just a tip for you, Maven, before someone breaks out the flamethrower. Check the dates on the last post in the thread before you hit reply.

Some people don't like it if you revive old threads just to say that you like something. For example, I saw the thread title in the list, and thought, "Cool, Arkai is making another protosaber!", when in fact, this is an old saber that no longer exists.

ArkaiHalon
08-04-2009, 05:31 AM
Just a tip for you, Maven, before someone breaks out the flamethrower. Check the dates on the last post in the thread before you hit reply.

Some people don't like it if you revive old threads just to say that you like something. For example, I saw the thread title in the list, and thought, "Cool, Arkai is making another protosaber!", when in fact, this is an old saber that no longer exists.


Well, if it makes it better, I AM making a new protosaber.

But MkIII will be the awesomness.