Jay-gon's PVC Hilts - Full tutorial on last page

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Here's what I've got done so far:

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/000_0144.jpg

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/000_0145.jpg

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/000_0146.jpg

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/000_0147.jpg

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/000_0154.jpg

Right now I've got parts to complete 4 of these, so I do need to order some more led's and may get some micropucks when I get the leds. My intention with the ones I'm planning on keeping is to have those at the photo booths when I'm out trooping with the 501st and Rebel Legions for kids and adults to use as props, instead of $150+ metal sabers.

[ArkaiHalon]

very nice.

would be great for getting younger kids into this hobby.

[xwingband]

Yup, PVC is great for just making a simple saber. I did one like this a bit ago:
http://www.incomsabers.com/images/initiate2a.jpg

This weekend I'll be making one that is the same except a coupler instead of the rubber cap at the bottom.

One thing I also did that I liked was I used a forstner bit to make switch holes just like the MHS ones. First I drill a small pilot, drill the large hole part way through then finally drill the smaller through hole.

BTW those couplers make a wicked resonance chamber if you put sound in one. It makes a Hasbro louder than an MR. :shock:

[Angelus Lupus]

Wow, Padwan sabers by the bucket load! Nice work. :)

[Bescherman]

As coincidence would have it I posted a thread on a few hours ago HERE (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3524) on pretty much exactly the same topic!

1) Jay, have you just dirlled and tapped straight through the PVC?
2) Do you know what differences/similarities there are between PVC and ABS?
3) What LEDs are you using in there and have you had any problems with the heat deforming the plastic? If not, what level of heatsinking are you using?
4) How have you mounted the LEDs inside?
5) do the two sizes of tube that you're using just fit over each other perfectly of have you filled out the space between then with anything?

Thanks in advance for any help you can offer! Cheers, B.

[Vazan Maceu]

Don´t underestimate the power... Of PVC. :lol:

I like to work with it, adding details and metal parts here and there... Very nice Jay-gon :wink:

[Barmic Rin]

This is all stuff i'm looking into for my niece's saber!!! Please keep us updated on how to safely secure the heatsink/led in PVC pipe!

I haven't a clue! :D

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Well, to start, I'm using Luxeon 1 stars as the leds. I am basing the construction style off the two Ultrasaber's Initiates I have. The blade retention screw isn't drilled and tapped into the pvc, I used a threaded wood insert that I picked up from the hardware store and also at Menard's. The inserts are screwed into a hole in the pvc with a hex wrench and then the 8-32 socket head screw screws into that to secure the blade.

What you see in the above pics is how far I've gotten. None are finished yet, I don't even have one lit up ! (Waiting on the 10 switches I ordered from the store!) I'm planning on going without a driver for now, as the 1-watt stars really only need about 3 volts to light up (especially the red and amber's). If it looks like they're not bright enough, I'll be getting some micropuck drivers to install in them. Heat shouldn't be an issue as Ultra sells these things with no heatsink at all.

I still need to make the blades, too. I'll be using the Corbin/cellophane combo in these ones, too. I might even try sanding the inside of one of them.

[xwingband]

Bumparoo...

Here's what I completed today:
http://www.incomsabers.com/images/tmbender2.jpg

Polywashers, black paint, 45 degree elbow, coupler, chrome endcap, etc...

Pretty spiffy!

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Nice! I like the washers on the emitter end. I'm still waiting on the micropucks and blades to arrive before I go any further with mine.

[Novastar]

This reminds me of those padawan sabers Ultra used to have... although I don't know if he still does them.

I bought some to give him some patronage (along with an Obi conversion), and gave two padawan sabers to a pal of mine for his kid & hid kid's cousin... and I gave the Obi to an old friend of mine who was FAR more of an SW fan than was I.

Strangely enough, Aaron doesn't talk to me anymore. That's the thanks I get, eh?!?!!? No respect I tell ya, no respect!!! :)

But seriously, nice work Jay and X... I should have had YOU guys make the padawan sabers for BOP III!!!! D'OH!!!!

[Hasid Lafre]

Th epvc hilts you see above are the new line of ultras diy kiddy sabers.

[Angelus Lupus]

Th epvc hilts you see above are the new line of ultras diy kiddy sabers.
Uh, no. The ones above were made by Jay-gon Jinn.

[xwingband]

He means they are the same stuff... obviously they're Jay-Gon's.

It took me a bit to find the right PVC... I finally realized my Home Depot just sucked big time. I've found all the various elbows and couplers no problem at Lowes.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

My local Do-it Center hardware had most of the parts, but Lowe's had the end caps. The pvc conduit pipe I used for the hilts I got at the Do-it hardware 'cause they'll sell it to me by the foot. I bought a 5 foot piece that didn't have any writng on it, so that helps alot, not having to try to strip the writing off. My polyC tubes for the blades arrived today, so I can get to work making those.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

I got one test-wired and assembled it to compare it to one of my Ultrasabers Initiates:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/102_0684.jpg
My pvc hilt is on the bottom, both are red Lux I's, mine is straight off the batteries (2 AAA's), the Initiate has 4 AAA's (6 volts) and a resistor. Both are using a stock thick-walled Initiate 24" Ultrablade.

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/102_0681.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/102_0686.jpg

The Initiate is slightly brighter for now, but that should change once I get my Micropucks from Luxeonstar. I have also found that I have enough room in the hilt for two AAA packs, so I may wire in another parrallel to increase the battery life.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

My parts arrived yesterday, so I got a few of these wired up:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/000_0163.jpg

Here is the red one compared to my Ultra initiate (Initiate is on top, mine is on the bottom):
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/100_0803.jpg
The micropuck makes these led's really shine, if you ever decide to build some sabers with Lux I's, these are a must!

Here are the red and green pvc sabers compared to my red and green Lux III' powered MHS/hardware sabers:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/100_0807.jpg

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/100_0805.jpg

A properly driven Lux I star with a short enough blade looks almost as bright as an MR driven lux III star.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

The two "Lil' Tyrants" as I like to call them are using red/orange Lux I star as well, and are driven with micropucks:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/000_0158.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/000_0156.jpg

They look more orange in person, but I didn't feel like messing with the settings on the camera more than I already did.

[ArkaiHalon]

Those look really good Jay Gon

great work

[supertrogdor]

definately some good poop there, keep up the good work

[Barmic Rin]

Jay, you gonna do a white 1w?
Doing one for my niece & will be using pink Lee film in the blade.
I hope it comes out as cool as yours are.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

I wasn't planing on doing a white one, but now that I've broken the dome on my amber one, I'll be ordering a replacement, so I might just get one of each. I'm not sure how I broke it, I must've put the tubing cutters down on top of it by mistake.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

I finished up two more: These two are longer than the rest for bigger hands and will have longer blades:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/000_0167.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/000_0169.jpg
I still need to add the grip marks to these two.

The above pics were taken using blades from my MHS/hardware sabers. All of the blades I made for the pvc sabers so far have a single wrap of Corbin's film and about 4.5 feet of cellophane, for the "Dual-Core Blade Diffuser" look that I like.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

I finished the last one that I parts for:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/000_0172.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/000_0171.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/000_0170.jpg

This one is the last of the curved hilts I have, and uses an Amber Lux I Star. The blade is borrowed from one of the other hilts, as I don't have any more made yet. Need some more parts from the store....

And a group shot of the finished sabers:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/000_0174.jpg

[gundamaniac]

Haha, that's great. It's like an armory of lightsabers...for jedi troopers or something, when they lose their sabers in battle and don't have time to build a new one before the next fight begins.

[Obi-Dar Ke-Gnomie]

Boy, you could decorate your house for Christmas with all those sabers!

[Jay-gon Jinn]

I have one more to add to the completed list:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/000_0175.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/000_0176.jpg

It also seperates into two by unscrewing the coupler (the batteries have a tendency to fall out, though):
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/000_0178.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/000_0177.jpg

[supertrogdor]

a couple form fitting ear plugs can help on the battery problem there, good looking double by the way

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Good idea there SuperT. If that doesn't work, I was thinking maybe some really big cotton balls.

[traydemark]

Hey jay-gonn. What size drill bit do you use when you drill into your pvc pipes (preferably for 6-32 screws)? Do you still use the one paired with it on the store site? Or a smaller size?

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Which screw are you talking about? The one that holds the blade is a standard 8-32 socket head screw that screws into a threaded insert that is screwed throught the pvc. For that I used a 15/64 bit. The screw that holds on the end caps is also an 8-32, but for that I tapped into the pvc. For that one I used the standard #29 bit that is required for tapping those threads.

[traydemark]

Well what I meant was....when you drill holes into wood, you use a bit smaller than the screw so that the screw can thread itself into the wood. I was wondering if it was the same idea with pvc.

[Novastar]

Trayde... you're thinking about "self-tapping" screws, which are sharp... and generally wouldn't be used in attempting to penetrate aluminum or steel.

You are correct though that in general, with ALL kinds of drilling and tapping/threading... you would want to drill a hole that is slightly smaller than the screw... and then use the correct tap to weave/cut the threads into the material being made ready for a screw.

Yup... the threads can't sit in the middle of the air!!! :)

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Okay, I see what you're getting at Traydemark. the wood insert that I used for the blade screw is threaded into a slightly smaller hole like you would drill for wood, but the endcap screw is drilled and tapped like a screw hole in metal, using the #29 drill bit and the 8-32 tap size.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Okay, I believe Barmic asked me about using a white led in one of these:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/000_0223.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/000_0229.jpg

Here's my new hilt design:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/000_0193.jpg

I thought the full coupler at the front of the hilt made it look out of proportion, so I cut off about 1/2 an inch, then put the extra piece on the pommel end. I think that balances out the look a bit better.

[Barmic Rin]

Thanks for the pic Jay.
That should be bright enough to keep a 4yr old happy without burning retinas!

[Jedi-Loreen]

I'm really liking these kid friendly sabers, Jay. :)

Makes me wish I could afford to build a bunch of them because the Orange County Saber Academy is going to start doing little "Jedi Training Academy" events with some of the local Boys and Girls clubs.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

That sounds like a lot of fun, Loreen! These really aren't that expensive to put together, and are very simple in construction. I built four of them in a matter of a couple hours. The biggest cost factor in them though, is the micropuck driver. At around $10 a piece, the really add up fast!

[Hasid Lafre]

that and you can get pex pipe and use that for blades.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

I made up a couple more:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/100_0845.jpg

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/100_0847.jpg
This is a Lil' Tyrant II, I guess. I was asked if I could use the angle cut on one of them, and found a way to do it.

[xwingband]

Hey Jay, I notice you're having issues selling them on eBay. IMO you should paint the curved ones to cover the writing. Also saying just a Luxeon instead of giving the designation. People less in the know start wondering if a I is going to be weak since III's are the standard.

Even if you state in HUGE letters that the small blade makes it brighter they'll still be... "duh, isn't a I weaker than a III, can I have a V?" :evil:

[TorLinWaDur]

yeah i saw this on eBay. ive been watching. lol

[Jay-gon Jinn]

I have thought about painting them, but with all the extra work involved, I'm not sure I'd want to do that....I'll try painting some of them after Halloween. My idea was to wrap them in some kind of grip material, similar to Ventress' sabers. I have also considered checking into getting them chrome plated also.

Did my starting price seem to high? They already cost me $38 to make them in the first place, and that's not counting the shipping on everything I have to order. There's also some level of fabrication involved, too. The lens/led holder takes some time to make. I did change the derscription to simply say a "Luxeon Star'" instead of a Luxeon I. These things really are as bright as a Lux III that's run on an MR board, though.

I'm also not tyring to sell them as a business type thing either....I just wanted to recoup the costs of building them, and cover the ones for the photobooth props.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

I found some paint at Wal-mart today that is intended for plastic and features a hammered finish when dry. I'll post pics after it's fully cured and re-assembled. Painting it only took a few minutes, so I may go ahead and do them all.

EDIT:
Here's the first painted Lil' Tyrant!
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/100_0896.jpg

The other side, where the writing was:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/100_0895.jpg

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Here it is re-assembled, with an unpainted Lil' Tyrant for comparison:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/100_0905.jpg

That's much better, and was easier than I thought it would be. I bought two cans of spray paint, the silver shown here, and what look ed lke either black or gun metal gray, I'm not sure. I'll try that out on another one. I may end up painting them all....prep was a snap with this paint.

[Lord Maul]

That looks a ton better without the barcode/lettering showing Jay.

[Angelus Lupus]

Agreed, looking very nice.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

I painted some more this morning!
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/000_0235.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/000_0237.jpg

The two on the bottom might look black in the pic, but they are a charcoal mettallic in person. I like these much better now, myself!

[Tom Starkiller]

They looks awesome.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

I re-assembled my green one:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/000_0240.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/000_0241.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/000_0244.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/000_0248.jpg

Since I decided to paint these, I changed out the end caps for the white pvc style. they look more like a saber pommel, and don't have the embossed writing on them, either. Just remove the screw and the cap comes off to change batteries!
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/000_0249.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/000_0243.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/000_0252.jpg

[xwingband]

Now those will sell better! Screw hasbro... PVC is where it's at. :lol:

[Tom Starkiller]

Now those will sell better! Screw hasbro... PVC is where it's at. :lol:

LOL, true, the blades won't bend and dent like my hasbros did, hopefully.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

I hope so, X!

And the worst thing these blades would do is bend and flex to the point the tip will come off. Just glue it back on, and you're back to playing! (At least for now, until I get me some Weld-on #3). Also, the blades sold here in the store will fit these, as will any other 1" diameter blade.

I will be adding a Hasbro soundboard to one of them for my son, as well. We have a broken Vader hilt from 1997 that still has sound, so it will donate it's board. The new pommels are perfect for drilling a hole pattern on!

[Angelus Lupus]

Very nice stuff, I love that dark metalic look. I'd personally be tempted to slightly spray some on a silver one for a weathered look.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

That thought crossed my mind, Angelus, but I haven't tried it yet.

I also painted the big kid or adult sized hilt I made:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/000_0253.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/000_0255.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/000_0257.jpg

This one and the green one should work nicely in the photobooth, in place of my brass and MHS/hardware sabers.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Only three more left to paint;
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/000_0263.jpg

[Angelus Lupus]

I think the term 'big kid' is more accurate than adult in this context :)

[alpine]

whats wrong with being a big kid?

[Angelus Lupus]

Nothing, hence the smiley

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Painted some more:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/000_0266.jpg

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/000_0273.jpg

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/000_0260.jpg

[Jedi Master Taka]

Jay-gon Jinn,
Realy great looking sabers! I was wondering what you are using to make the grip markings on the sabers. Just your pipe cutter, or have you found something better for the job? Thanks! :D

[Darth Zecks]

Those look great Jay-gon. Those Lux I's are brighter then I would have thought. I don't like using pvc but I might have to got with that to get the curve to the saber I'm building.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Jay-gon Jinn,
Realy great looking sabers! I was wondering what you are using to make the grip markings on the sabers. Just your pipe cutter, or have you found something better for the job? Thanks! :D
Simple pipe cutter is all it takes.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

I've been kinda busy, but did manage to get a few more of these put together:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/000_0315.jpg

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/000_0317.jpg
The above saber has a blade that I've been working on to get a more "solid enrgy beam" look with. I sanded the inside of the blade and inserted a roll of cellohane film. It's not perfect, but it'll work for what it's for. I call this one the Dark Acolyte...it's about 12" long and sized about right for a "big kid!"

Here's a kind of group shot of what I've got finished:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/000_0318.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/000_0321.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/000_0320.jpg

I didn't bother with altering the settings on the camera, so the blades are all overexposed, but these should photograph well in the charity photobooth and there should be enough for people to have a choice in what color they'd like to borrow for their photo with the costumers. There is only one not shown there, and that's my blue double-bladed saber. I still have to paint that one.

[Angelus Lupus]

Wow :shock: That's one fine looking armoury you've got going there. I'd say your charity booth will be a huge hit.

[37H4N]

Those are so cool! I've been tossing around the idea of making my own PVC sabers. I figure they'd only cost around $40-$50. What I plan to do is make one or two then go around my neighborhood and show people and see if they're interested in buying one for they're kids or even themselves. 8)

[Jedi Master Taka]

I was so impressed with your sabers I made a run out to the hardware store to pick up the PVC peaces (And a pipe cutter :lol:) to build my 1st saber. (I have MR and such… But we all know you’re not a Jedi until you build your own.) The only thing is, I am a complete noob when it comes to the electronics. I’ve been reading through the forums and think I have a pretty good idea how to proceed except for one thing. I would like to make your design as a 3w Amber. As I understand it that means I will need a heatsink unlike the 1w you used. (Please correct me if I’m wrong.) Will the http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/pc-844-22-luxeon-star-heatsink.aspx fit into this design? And if it will, how should I go about mounting it inside the PVC? Any ideas you could give me would be great. Thanks!

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Those are so cool! I've been tossing around the idea of making my own PVC sabers. I figure they'd only cost around $40-$50. What I plan to do is make one or two then go around my neighborhood and show people and see if they're interested in buying one for they're kids or even themselves. 8)

I had the same idea, and sold a couple on ebay recently.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

I was so impressed with your sabers I made a run out to the hardware store to pick up the PVC peaces (And a pipe cutter :lol:) to build my 1st saber. (I have MR and such… But we all know you’re not a Jedi until you build your own.) The only thing is, I am a complete noob when it comes to the electronics. I’ve been reading through the forums and think I have a pretty good idea how to proceed except for one thing. I would like to make your design as a 3w Amber. As I understand it that means I will need a heatsink unlike the 1w you used. (Please correct me if I’m wrong.) Will the http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/pc-844-22-luxeon-star-heatsink.aspx fit into this design? And if it will, how should I go about mounting it inside the PVC? Any ideas you could give me would be great. Thanks!

That heatsink will fit just fine, if not a bit loosely. The inside dia. of the pvc is slighly more than 1". If I were to use that heatsink in one, I think I'd use 3 or 4 set screws to secure it inside the hilt if you plan on having it with a removeable blade. Or, do what I've been doing with these and just sandwich in between the blade and the switch if you plan on leaving the blade on it.

[Jedi Master Taka]

[quote="

That heatsink will fit just fine, if not a bit loosely. The inside dia. of the pvc is slighly more than 1". If I were to use that heatsink in one, I think I'd use 3 or 4 set screws to secure it inside the hilt if you plan on having it with a removeable blade. Or, do what I've been doing with these and just sandwich in between the blade and the switch if you plan on leaving the blade on it.[/quote]



Thanks much for the size information. I am planning on making the blade removable. Could you please define “Set Screws” for me? The 1st thing that came to mind was drilling and taping the heatsink. Then, I realized how small the heatsink is… So I think I confused again…

[Jedi Master Taka]

Ok I think I found it on the net. A Setscrew is similar to the blade retention bolt but it’s flush. Right? So would you do 2 or 3 from the same side of the heat sink, or one on each side, or alternating? Sorry for asking such basic questions, but I am really new to this kinda stuff.

Also, I was planning on using this saber for some fairly brisk sparing. Will the setscrews significantly weaken the structure of the PVC? I would hate to have the handle snap off at the heatsink during practice.

[Jedi Master Taka]

Another question... I couldn't seem to hunt down the measurements for TCSS's battery packs. Would an http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/pc-607-6-4aaa-battery-holder.aspx fit? I have thrown together a curved and a straight version, and the curved one concerns me as far as the battery pack. If that one won't work, is there one you would recommend?

[Jay-gon Jinn]

I would only use two set screws if you plan to do rigorous sparring with a pvc hilt. Drill and tap the pvc, just like you would on a metal hilt. I would actually use the button heads Tim has in the store, http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/pc-627-8-8-32-x-14-button-head-screw.aspx with some washers under the heads if they are too long...or cut them off a bit. You don't need to drill the heat sink, the end of the srew just presses against it to hold it in. I'd go with three, even spaced around the hilt...although, one would probably do the job.

The 4-AAA battery holder won't even fit inside the pipe, it's too big. I used a 2-AAA holder from Radio Shack on mine, and can only fit one inside the hilt due to the curve. You could use a coupler and extend the pommel end, but it might look a bit funny unless you do the same to the emitter end. You could then get two of the 2-AAA holders inside, wired in series for 6 volts. Don't forget, you'll need a resistor or a buckpuck driver as well.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Well, I've finally finished the last of them! This is my double bladed version:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/100_1106.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/100_1108.jpg

I decided to try sanding the inside of some of these blades and they turned well. These two for this saber are the best of the bunch, though. When turned off, they resemble an Ultrablade, as well:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/100_1107.jpg

And when lit, they look like the other combo film blades I have:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/100_1103.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/100_1098.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/100_1104.jpg

I still have to figure out how to get my camera totake a good pic of blue sabers....I just can't quite get them to look like life-like like the green and red ones...oh, well you get the idea!

[ArkaiHalon]

as the proud owner of a Jay-gon PVC saber, They are great for the younglings, withone exception.

short blade, plus short kid = inside Daddy's reach faster than daddy can react.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

as the proud owner of a Jay-gon PVC saber, They are great for the younglings, withone exception.

short blade, plus short kid = inside Daddy's reach faster than daddy can react.

HAHA..that should keep you on your toes, then!

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Okay, I've had a few inquiries as to how to build these, and I really think they are pretty self-explanantory if you read the whole thread. But here's a bit of info that isn't in here:
The pvc used is 1 inch electricical conduit pvc. It's gray and can be found at any large home improvement store, or even your local hardware stores and lumber yards. those same stores will also have all the connectors and fittings....use what ever looks good to you, that's what I diod. Standard schedule 40 pvc plumbing fittings also fit the conduit pipe.

The leds are Luxeon I stars. Those can be found at any online store that sells leds. Most of those places also sell the Micropuck driver. That's what it's called and there are only three types of those drivers, I used the 350 ma version, because that's what the leds are rated for. I also used 15 deg. collimators because they are usually less expensive than the 10 deg version. I used the cheapest lens holder available as well. The lens, holder and led assembly looks like this:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/100_0801.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/100_0800.jpg
There's nothing used to hold this in place, except the blade and the switch.

As far as the paint goes, any spray paint that is formulated to work on plastiv should work. Follow the instructions on the can for preparation before painting.

[Darth_Nexus]

Thanks, Jay. I know I was one of those inquiries, and you're right, I did find most of the information after reading again. This extra info helps as well.

[yattle]

Can you show a picture of the rest of the wiring IE the switch,buck puck, and battery pack please?
yattle

[Barmic Rin]

Thanks Jay!
Now I just gotta squeeze an Ani AOTC hasbro board in there too!

[xwingband]

Can you show a picture of the rest of the wiring IE the switch,buck puck, and battery pack please?
yattle

There are wiring diagrams for the micro puck out there...

It's just like a buckpuck. Put a switch on one of the power leads and orange and green is the LED leads.

[Barmic Rin]

eh, yung'uns! :lol:

Always in a rush, never willing to take the time to read, not like the old days, huh, X? :D

[xwingband]

not like the old days, huh, X? :D

What old days??? No one seems to put in the effort... ever.

[Soulkeeper7700]

Very cool Jay-gon.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Actually, I do happen to have a picture:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/100_0798.jpg

I find it sometimes helps out when doing something for the first time to have a picture to use as a guide.

[yattle]

I have read the other information in the Forums and wanted to see it all in one piece. In addition there were some wiring diagrams in the schematics and drawings for the LED which are missing now
yattle

[JediKnightBJ]

This is my one handed attempt at building a PVC saber. I borrowed designs from Ultrasabers Kids sabers, and Jay-gon's PVC sabers. This is a PVC hilt, built from parts found at Lowe's. It runs on a Lux 1 with no heatsink, a basic reflector for the lense, switch and battery holder from TCSS and a micro puck from LEDsupply.

http://i332.photobucket.com/albums/m357/bjall4jc/100_0839.jpg

http://i332.photobucket.com/albums/m357/bjall4jc/100_0838.jpg


I can only take 25% credit for this. I have only one working hand, smashed my right hand in a compression vice when I was 12, and it still there, but i have very little feeling in it and I only have about 40% use of it. My friend Mike helped me signicantly with the wiring and basically did all of it. He also sanded them down for me to paint. Thanks for your help man. Also, Jay-gon's help with certain parts were a huge help.

For those of you looking at the pvc wondering how did i hold the blade so nicely. I used aluminum tape on the inside of the blade holder and just put four or five layers, until the blade was more firm inside the holder. I aslo have an 8-32 set screw in it.


Oh and Jay-gon-Thanks a ton. This wouldn't have happened had it not been for your example and assistance with the set screw.

I am also working on a dark side hilt, I'll have more on the once its painted.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

That didn't turn out too bad for a one-armed Jedi! What size tube pvc pipe did you use for that? I used 1", which means it has a 1" inside diameter...the 1" polyarbonate tubes we use for blades fit right in there pretty snug. If you used a larger size, that might be why the blade was such a loose fit.

[JediKnightBJ]

I did use 1" PVC. I just figured out the blade problem though. Most of my blades were sanded down on the last 2" so that they can fit inside the MHS blade holders. I got simple new PolyC tubes and they are snug. I have now made two curved, this straight one, and a tonfa. I'm going to try some crazier things later this month.

thanks again for all your help.

PS>Mike thanks for the two handed man assistance.

[Lord Dottore Matto]

What old days??? No one seems to put in the effort... ever.

Thats not 100% true, only about 95%.:shock:

[Sam Skirata]

I'd like to make a lightsaber from (c?) pvc pipe that will be a replica of Qu Rahns lightsaber from the Jedi Knight series. If anyone would like to help please send suggestions!

[JediKnightBJ]

Could you put up some pics for an example?

[JediKnightBJ]

Ok, has anyone ever figure out a way to viably put a 3w Lux Star into a PVC hilt without completely melting it in half? I tried it with an aluminum heat sink, a copper heat sink and I have not melted two pieces of PVC and a 1/2" piece of Polycarbonate tubing.

Thanks

[Hasid Lafre]

Yeah its possable with a heatsink. Ultra started putting luxIII in his a couple weeks ago.

[JediKnightBJ]

Holy cow, does anyone know what size heat sink ultra used, ok i know, trade secret but, i'm not selling these, i'm making them for kids, to give away no sell.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

You could probably use this one:
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Luxeon-star-heatsink--P220.aspx

[X]

Ok maybe I haven't read it boefore but what type of heat does a LUX 3 put out? Is it enough to melt PVC? would a couple washers JB welded together work?

[Jay-gon Jinn]

If the led gets hot enough to melt the electrical conduit pvc, then you have some sort of problem in the wiring.

[JediKnightBJ]

Yep, it was the wires grounding out to the heat sink. with a micropuck it just kept pumping the power through the LED and the heatsink heated up. I fixed it. I am now just waiting on a few more parts to finish it, but I will have at least three pvc 3w sabers. My friend Mike has finished fixing the wiring problem, I probably created, and the saber paint dries, I will have 3 3 watts and 3 1 watts. I AM SUCH A PVC SABER ADDICT!!!

[JediKnightBJ]

Here's my three PVC Sabers, completed painted, and bladed.
http://i332.photobucket.com/albums/m357/bjall4jc/IMG_0883.jpg


Here's five more PVC's that the paint is still curing on. Electronics TO BE INSTALLED :)
http://i332.photobucket.com/albums/m357/bjall4jc/IMG_0880.jpg



Here's my meager work station, on top of a bike rack box, in my basement, don't worry I don't paint on it, I just set things there.

http://i332.photobucket.com/albums/m357/bjall4jc/IMG_0881.jpg

[Melek Taus]

I'd like to do this one....having a bit of problem finding some of the material to get it all to fit.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

I'd like to do this one....having a bit of problem finding some of the material to get it all to fit.


You do realize that the saber in the pic is NOT made from PVC, right?

[Melek Taus]

Well it looks like there is a sink tube going down the middle of it and the emitter looks like a shower nozzle with a washer somehow mounted in it, but the majority of it does actually look like it's PVC. The grip material looks like goved shower mat material or something similar.

However, I want to make it out of pvc....that was the point of my post. Has anyone been successful doing it?


Melek

[Sam Skirata]

I've fantasized about it. Get some chrome sink tube and 1 1/4 pvc (I don't know why they call it that, nothing on it is 1 1/4) and trim it as you go. The buttons will have to be cast, more than likely.

[eastern57]

Has anyone been successful doing it?

I think it pretty safe to say: No. But that doesn't mean it's not possible.

[JediKnightBJ]

So, I made a bunch of PVC Sabers. I can't keep them because it cost me a ton of money to make, money I didn't realize I had spent until I figured up the cost of making them all. So to ebay with them.


Here's a picture of all of them.


http://i332.photobucket.com/albums/m357/bjall4jc/100_1258-1.jpg

[duncan29793]

WOW, this is such a great thread. I have been milling around this forum for a couple weeks now before I registered trying to learn what I can about building my own lightsaber. This turned in to a bigger project as my 3 yr old some decided he wanted a "red" lightsaber (he loves Darth Vader). So wanting to do something simple for him and allow myself the time to start out slowly I was thinking about doing a sink pipe version. Now seeing how great and "easy" a PVC saber can be I have found my doorway into building my first saber. This is really the best way to start out I think.... the true padawan saber, lol.

How short can the body of the hilt be to leave enough room for the wires and such? I don't want it to be too cramped for the wiring and battery pack and not too big for my son's hands.

Jay, do you happen to have any more of your "initiate" style hilts available. Wouldn't hurt having a working model to use for reference.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

The shortest hilt I managed to cram all of the parts and wiring into is 6 inches. The 1 1/4" conduit pvc is about the right size for smaller hands, but you could also use 1" andput in a 3/4" blade if that's too large for him.

[duncan29793]

thanks, this will be a bit of trial and error I am sure. I will be looking for parts this week and see what I can come up with.

Being a 3 yr old, he isn't too destructive, but loves to swing a sword around. would the 3/4' be too brittle?

Also, aside from the blade, would I pretty much be able to find all the electronics at the local Radio Shack or are there some specifics that I would have to get from TCSS?

[Mazarill Slay]

Those are pretty effin sweet!
Great for younger kids as I read in here.

You would probably sell a bunch at a large con like DragonCon :P

[Donnovan Sunrider]

thanks, this will be a bit of trial and error I am sure. I will be looking for parts this week and see what I can come up with.

Being a 3 yr old, he isn't too destructive, but loves to swing a sword around. would the 3/4' be too brittle?

Also, aside from the blade, would I pretty much be able to find all the electronics at the local Radio Shack or are there some specifics that I would have to get from TCSS?

You're not likely to find the LEDs that are needed to really light up the blade at Radio Shack. Personally I'd recommend a Lux III star, maybe even a kit to simplify matters. Under $19, and you have the whole kit you need including the optics to focus the light up the blade and an optic holder.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Build-Your-Ownbr-Luxeon-III-Electronics-Kit-P6.aspx

I also recommend the 1.25" blade holder. This will give you a heat sink for the LED and a nice solid blade holder for the blade to go into.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/125-Sink-tube-LEDBlade-holder--P269.aspx

Then you can use whatever tubes you want. I'm building sabers for my niece and nephew using these parts, and they're great.

[duncan29793]

thanks for the info Sunrider.

I think I will stick pretty closely to Jay's pvc saber for my first one. This will be for my 3 yr old so simple and inexpensive is a good thing. Makes making mistakes a little less frusterating.

As for the kit, that is a great way of getting everything together, but I believe Jay mentioned earlier in the thread that the 4-AAA won't fit and that he used 2-AAA, and that it is possible to use 2 2-AAA wired together.

My saber will be the second attempt and with that one I think moving up to sink tube adapters will be a good transition in difficulty and options. It will also be longer and wider so more fun/options with electronics :mrgreen:

[Donnovan Sunrider]

That sounds like a solid plan Duncan. PVC is a great material for all kinds of projects. You're kid's friends are going to be so jealous. :D

If you have other questions, just make a topic so we don't clutter up Jay-Gon's thread too much.

[duncan29793]

thanks.

yes I was just thinking about that. Sorry to thread jack you Jay. :(

[Jay-gon Jinn]

I don't mind someone digging up this old thread and asking questions! Ask away! That's how one learns new things! ;)

To answer though:
3/4" polycarbonate it plenty sturdy...I've 3/4" blades on some of my own sabers due to design restrictions on the emitters. I've never had one break.

With him being three years old, I'd stick with the Luxeon I just in case he ever knocks the blade tip loose and looks into the led. The Lux I will cause eye damage, and the Lux III could cause significant eye damage, especially at such a young age. The Luxeon III will also require a heatsink, which you can get here, but that will take up extra space in the hilt.

I used two AAA's or two AA's in the ones I built because of the space issue, but also because the micro puck driver is a boost puck, which means it converts extra current into voltage to exceed the forward voltage of the led, while also maintaining a constant current, maximizing the brightness and effeciency. It also has a maximum input voltage of 3 volts when wired like I did to use in these pvc sabers.

[duncan29793]

How far should the blade be set into the hilt to be safely secured? And also once in, at what distance from the end of the blade should the set screw be?

I can just see my son swing his saber only to have the blade go flying out and smashing into the window or something that would no doubt lead to me getting a good beating by my wife.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

I was putting the blade in about 2 inches from the emitter edge and the retention bolt about halfway in between.

[Obi-Dar Ke-Gnomie]

I made one of these for my nephew, and I used some 5 minute epoxy and glued the blade in. I had visions of him pulling the blade out and flash blinding his sisters. If you're giving this to a 3 year old, I suggest you do the same.

[duncan29793]

thanks Obi-Dar. I have thought about that. My son will only be using it with supervision at first. I was thinking about putting in a button or set screw so he can't get the blade out himself. This may not be 100% at keeping the blade in (hence supervision). But when the blade is out I thought about using the Safety Plug http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/1-Hilt-safety-plug-P239.aspx

I do like the idea of having the blade permanently fixed but that will mean he can't have it hooked to his belt when circumstances require it (school costume party).

Jay-Gon, is the hilt to the emitter one piece or is the emmiter a seperate piece with the coupler holding the hilt and emitter together? Just wondering because it looks like it will be a bit of a struggle to get the switch in

[astromech_kuhns]

so im thinking of doing a PVC hilt just a hilt for display. i like prop building type of stuff and whant to make some display hilts. would this be a good option? also does the paint make the hilt feel sticky?

[astromech_kuhns]

as you said you wouldnt mind someone diggin this up and askin quesions:D
so tomorow or well it depends on when you read this soi shall say this.......sunday im gonna make pvc hilts im going to home depote to get the stuff i need. there gonna be static sabers. im gonna make a bunch and well i have a couple questions.

same as before if you handle the sabers alot will the paint have a stickey feeling to it? ive painted some things before and it came out dried but with a sticky feeling to it.

also is a regular saw good to cut pvc?

could you realy sell these at a convention?;):-D i mean would you have to get permision first?

[Jay-gon Jinn]

painting them won't make them feel sticky, as long as you paint them in a dry environment, and allow plenty of drying time between coats of paint. These were built to be handled at costume events with my local Garrison of the 501st Legion in their charity photobooth, and no one had any complaints, and the paint still looks good, almost a year later.

I used a powered miter saw to cut mine, but you could use a simple back-saw and a miter box to do it, too. Or a hacksaw. Don't use something intended for wood, it'll tear through the pvc, use a saw for cutting metal.

And you can't get permission to sell these at conventions. you can't afford the licensing fees Lucasfilm charges any more than I can! :)

[astromech_kuhns]

oh ok someone said that you could sell them at dragon con and ive been told im a little antrepernuar:D;)

so whats the drying time you think?

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Drying time depends on how warm the paint area is, and how heavy the layers are. If you keep the coats thin, they will be dry enough to add another in about 15 minutes. After they are fully painted, and I'd say about 4 coats ought to do it, let them dry for a day before you really handle them.

You can try to sell some at D'Con, but I'd be careful....

[astromech_kuhns]

hahaha ok i was just kinda kidding but that would be cool. so will they dry faster if its warmer or colder?

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Warmer=dries faster.

[astromech_kuhns]

so what does colder equel??? just kidding;):) so in materials for the hilts not realy the electronics how much do you think each hilt cost you to make?

[Jay-gon Jinn]

I'd say for just one hilt alone, without electronics, was about 12 dollars. Maybe less.

EDIT:

I just found my price sheet on those, and you won't believe how much the hilt alone was....

$0.69 1" pvc section 12" long
$1.47 1" pvc endcap
$0.99 1" pvc coupler
$0.19 8-32 hex drive wood insert (for the blade bolt)
$.039 8-32 socket head cap screw (blade bolt)
---------
$2.95 total

These prices were all from local hardware store, yours may vary. Add in whatever the paint cost you divided by the number of hilts painted for the whole total. to add a blade, and all of the electronics I used, you'd have about $38-$44 into a fully functional hilt, without sound.

[FenderBender]

For PVC its also best to get a plastic primer and spray that first. Flatter colors work/dry best, if you want them shiny add a gloss clear coat afterwards. DO NOT use those "brilliant metal" or chrome style paints. They dont seem to 'kick' well with the PVC and will never harden. I use Valspar for my flat blacks and primer/clear coats. Duplicolor Tru-Gold, and Rustoleum metallic silver. If you're going to do a lot of them buy the contractor packs of PVC fittings at your local big box hardware stores. Buy your PVC pipe in ten foot lengths ($2.50 here for ten ft.).

[Darth Mortis]

im having trouble keeping my hands steady while using my dremmel to cut grooves similar to what you did on your hilts. they are looking a bit sloppier than yours. what did you use for cutting the grooves into your hilts? from the pics they look great, evenly spaced and and perfectly circled (didnt know how else to describe it)

[Jay-gon Jinn]

I used a plumbing pipe cutter, not a Dremel.

Also, Fenderbender, the paint I used doesn't require priming....just clean the pvc with paint thinner and allow it to dry before painting. That's all the prep that was involved, and i haven't the paint wear off of any of these to badly....and I built these over a year ago.

[FenderBender]

Yeah, I could probably get away with not priming them, but old habits die hard. I always prime everything before I paint.

[Darth Mortis]

thanx :)

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Here's how I painted these:
I find it works best to hang the hilt from a piece of coat hanger or wire of some sort, like this:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/000_0697.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/000_0698.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/000_0695.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/000_0262.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/000_0260.jpg

They were just hung from a bungee strap and hooked in the hole for the blade retention bolt insert. I srayed each hilt with one light even coat to start. Allow 5-10 minutes drying time between coats. I applied approximately 5 coats of paint to each hilt, and allowed them to dry for about a day before finisheing the assembly. In this picture here, you can see the brand and type of paint I used:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/100_0904.jpg
It features a "hammered finish" when dry. It actually uses a condition called "fisheye" to to achieve the look.

[Darth Mortis]

to quote Borat...."Very nice."

did you have any problems with the layers of paint filling or gunking up the grooves that you set?

[Jay-gon Jinn]

to quote Borat...."Very nice."

did you have any problems with the layers of paint filling or gunking up the grooves that you set?

nope!

[astromech_kuhns]

Actually, I do happen to have a picture:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/100_0798.jpg

I find it sometimes helps out when doing something for the first time to have a picture to use as a guide.

so did you use one of the electronic kits for this? and what blade did you use? also is that setup a 1 watt amperage?

[Jay-gon Jinn]

That is a Luxeon I led, a micro puck driver, and a 2-AAA battery holder. That is not a kit from the store, as Tim doesn't sell the Lux I led's. I got the led and the micropuck from ledsupply.com, but you can also order those from luxeonstar.com. The blade I made myself....it was a 24" thin-walled polycarbonate combination film blade that I call Dual-Core Diffusion.

[astromech_kuhns]

so the battery pack i can get at radio shack and the blades i can buy on here im sure so would i need 1" blade if my pvc is 1"? also i can get the switch at radio shack and then could you get the LED and micropucker at radio shack?

[Sairon]

Jay-gonn have you ever considered using aluminium duct tape on the straight sabers. it would give them a nice shine:)

[Jedi-Loreen]

also i can get the switch at radio shack and then could you get the LED and micropucker at radio shack?

Dude, you're not listening.


I got the led and the micropuck from ledsupply.com, but you can also order those from luxeonstar.com.

They don't have those types of LEDs, or micropucks at RadioShack. Otherwise, he probably wouldn't have ordered them, he'd have just gone and picked them up, and he would have said so.

Make sense?

[astromech_kuhns]

well i know that radio shack is expensive so if hes going to buy a bunch then even with paying shipping it could still be a better way to go. but im only doing like 3 or so one for me and one for me cousin for christmas and one for my freind.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

I pretty much already answered when I said I got the led's and drivers from www.ledsupply.com. YOU CANNOT GET THEM FROM RADIOSHACK. Not in the store, or online, they do not carry them. The switch is the one in the store here at TCSS. The battery holder is the only part you can get at Radio shack, but that's not where i get them. I get those from www.allelectronics.com. They also have switches like the ones in the store here, but they aren't as good quality-wise.

[swear000]

did you run any direct drive setups in your PVC hilts? Don't get me wrong, I like the micropuck idea a lot but I am just wondering if you can still get a very bright LED with just a proper resistor.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

No, I didn't use any resistors in any of these. The micro puck allowed me to use only two AA's or two AAA's to power the leds, as they are boost pucks, meaning they take extra current from the batteries and use it to boost the voltage to the led, so it would properly light a Luxeon I led that requires at least 3.42volts, which is a bit more than the 3 volts from two AAA's. To use a resitored set-up, I would have had to use 3 or 4 AAA's instead.

[astromech_kuhns]

so as i sadi i just wnat to make a couple so me and my friend can duel till i get mine and i should have my pics up tonight.

[swear000]

cool. Follow Jay-gon Jinn's build threads closely. He does a great job at explaining everything in his build threads and comes up with gorgeous sabers. I did a sink tube/MHS parts one following one of his threads and it really turned out well. Internal circuitry sometimes takes more research depending on additional extras like accent LEDs and such. Hope to see pics of your sabers and good luck :D

[astromech_kuhns]

thank you i may not end up getting them up tonight as my freind has to get them uploaded.

[Darth Mortis]

the aluminum duct tape looks great as a coat if you dont want to mess with paint for the majority of the hilt. the only thing is that you have to make sure you sand out the inside of any pvc pieces (i.e. the couplings) if your going to have any go over them. i made that mistake and ended up scratching the tape all up. its a pain in the rear to remove the tape, and a waste of materials if you just do it all over again.
Although, if it just covers the most exterior of the hilt, it does give it a great look. just make sure you have the tape placed properly. (i know most of you know this already, just thought id throw my two cents in) :p

[astromech_kuhns]

so is tape a good option for display hilts? i want these to look realistic:D

[Darth Sivis]

Jay-gon you are my new hero! I've been lurking the forums for a good guide to build my first lightaber (well two of my first since i'm also building one for my girlfriend turn starwars freak). The guides you have look so simple to follow I just have to try it! I have both lowes and home depot (across the street from eachother ironicly) so I might even see about hangling the prices of parts down. I have other goodies I might put into them. Aside from all that nonsence I just wanna tahnk you for the biggest help ever!

[Jedi-Loreen]

We never did see any of the hilts that astromech khuns. I wonder if he every ended up getting any made?

[DACOTA]

Man am I out of the loop. (Cant be out of what you were never in. Just in case someone else wants to pull that.) But man Jay those are sweet! Look at you thinking outside the hilt. What a great way to go!

[Matakin]

I don't mean to make myself sound stupid off of this little ancient topic -

But Jay, what blade holder did you might've used for your PVC saber? Or is it just the the PVC you have?

[Sairon]

just pvc, it does help to read the thread:rolleyes:

[cardcollector]

I don't mind someone digging up this old thread and asking questions! Ask away! That's how one learns new things! ;)


OK, here goes.:) What coupler did you use to make your double bladed saber and how did you install it?

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Just a basic pvc electrical conduit coupler that screws together. I may suggest cutting some threads off of the male section of the coupler, though. It takes a while to unscrew the two halves, and shortening the threads will lessen the time needed to unscrew them.

[cardcollector]

Thanks.:) You are a Jedi Master!:cool:

[Ion Palis]

I am new to the whole saber building crew but was curious what type of resistor Jay-gon used to build his PVC sabers. Any info would be great. Thanks so much.

[cardcollector]

Read page 8 in this thread.;)

[Ion Palis]

Not to sound like the complete idiot I am when it comes to this new undertaking I would like to get into, what is the difference between a resistor and a buckpuck?

[Jedi-Loreen]

Before you possibly get flamed, please read through The Saber Building Dictionary for the answer to that question: http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=6524

Then check out the Thread Index: http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=553

[Angelus Lupus]

Ah, the noob threads and search box. They're like flame-retardant :D
Seriously, listen to J-Lo and you'll soon find what you need.

[Ion Palis]

Had not seen the thread index before, this will keep me busy for awhile. Thank you.

[cardcollector]

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/100_0801.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/100_0800.jpg
There's nothing used to hold this in place, except the blade and the switch.


Sorry for another question.:( but what did you use for the outer clear part the LED assembly? Is it polycarbonate tubing?

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Yes, it's a small piece of the polycarbonate tube that makes the blade. I used my tubing cutter on one nd of the piece for a rolled edge, by tightening the cutter really tight as I was cutting it off, then used cut-off blade on my mitre saw to cut the flat side for the blade to rest against. The rolled edge prevents the led star from dropping through the piece of tube. I got away with doing this set-up because I used Lux I led's that require minimal heatsinking, due to their lower current values as compared to Lux III's. If you were to use Lux III's in a pvc saber, you'd have to also use something as a heat sink for the led.

[Obi-Ben]

Those are pretty sharp. What's the minimum you have spent building a PVC LED saber? It would be neat to make half a dozen of them and have a huge battle in the dark.

[cardcollector]

Read page 8...
Google the supplies...
Then use a calculator.

[Obi-Ben]

Read page 8...
Google the supplies...
Then use a calculator.

That's kind of a rude answer. If you don't know, you don't have to answer. I'm not looking for an exact quote, I'm just curious as to a very approximate number people have spent building a basic PVC hilt.

[Sairon]

You can build one for less than 50 bucks.

[cardcollector]

That's kind of a rude answer. If you don't know, you don't have to answer. I'm not looking for an exact quote, I'm just curious as to a very approximate number people have spent building a basic PVC hilt.

I do know!:mad: I was not meaning to be rude at all.:cool:

I was trying to encourage you to READ the entire thread!!
If you had, you would have found out how much it costs to build one.:rolleyes: (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?p=69089&highlight=cost#post69089) it's the 6th post down.

Very rarely people are outright rude on this forum.
If they don't give you the answer straight (otherwise known as "spoonfeeding") the answer is usually available per their advice.

[Obi-Ben]

Ok, sorry. But I didn't mean for someone to spoonfeed an answer either. I was just expressing enthusiasm and interest.

[cardcollector]

Understood.
We're cool.:cool:

[Jay-gon Jinn]

The actual cost to build one of those depends on a few factors, but should be under $40.

[Sairon]

Very true, the more stuff you add the pricer it gets.

[jedimastergarcia87]

That screw you got on the emittor, is that the blade retention? Also, do you have anything fancy holding the electronics into place? I think I got a better idea of how to make pvc sabers now. I'm going to try and get the main body and screws this week. Also, how do you do the blade retention, like how Ultra does their sabers. Do they just drill the screw a certain amount into the emittor, then carve out the bottom of the blade enough to snap onto the screw? Thanks for the info!Also, for electronics, is all I need the LED, the battery pack, lens, and switch, and can I use a TCCS switch? I like their lighted switches.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

That screw you got on the emittor, is that the blade retention? Also, do you have anything fancy holding the electronics into place? I think I got a better idea of how to make pvc sabers now. I'm going to try and get the main body and screws this week. Also, how do you do the blade retention, like how Ultra does their sabers. Do they just drill the screw a certain amount into the emittor, then carve out the bottom of the blade enough to snap onto the screw? Thanks for the info!Also, for electronics, is all I need the LED, the battery pack, lens, and switch, and can I use a TCCS switch? I like their lighted switches.

Yes, the screw near the emitter is the blade retention screw. No, you don't need to drill into the blade to hold it in. There are three pieces to the blade retention screw: A threaded insert that has 8-32 threads on the inside, and large wood-screw like threads on the outside, a 1/2" 8-32 Socket head screw, and a #8 lock washer. Drill a hole through the hilt large enough to screw in the threaded insert. Then screw in the socket head screw with the lock washer....tighten it snug using the appropriate sized allen wrench....the screw simply presses down on top of the blade to secure it. This is how it's done on almost every LED based saber with a removable blade. There's no need to drill holes in the blade itself....doing so will actually weaken the blade.

I mentioned already through youtube that the electronics kit that Tim has in the store won't necessarily work in a pvc hilt, at least not the way I built these ones. The AAA battery pack, and the AA battery packs for that matter, don't fit into a 1" diameter opening like the conduit has. You'll need to use a 2-AAA holder, or an inline 2-AA holder. Or, change the construction style to use a smaller thickness of pvc to get the room needed for the battery holder.

I certainly wouldn't use an $18 switch in one either, but that's up to you....if they fit...those lighted switches are very large in diameter, and are also quite long, and I'm not sure they will even fit without bottoming out inside the saber.

[Jedi-Loreen]

And if you use and LED that uses a 3V battery pack, I don't know if that's enough voltage to light up the LED in one of the lighted switches, anyway.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

I've had a few questions recently, from here, FX-Sabers and also through youtube (believe it or not!!) on what holds the blade in place. It uses a two-part system; the first part being a threaded insert that looks like this:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/a6ff29ef.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/7f8492f6.jpg
These can be found at any full-line hardware store, and are sometimes found in with the furniture hardware. I used the size for an 8-32 machine screw. You'll notice that the insert is threaded on the outside as well as the inside. The outside threads work just like a wood screw. Drill a hole just smaller than the thread size, and screw it into the pvc using the appropriate size hex wrench.
The screw will look like this:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/a084c918.jpg
All together, the pieces fit like so:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/88774bd3.jpg

Here's how it installs in the saber:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/100_4562.jpg
I screw the insert into the hilt first. This is the reason I used a pvc coupler on this section of the hilt, because the coupler gives the saber enough thickness for the threaded insert to fit and not stick out too far from the outside of the hilt, or into the inside of the hilt.
If the insert seems to have too much resistance on it to screw into the hole, try enlarging the hole with the next size larger drill bit. If you try to drive it in with too much force, the insert could jam, and split.
Here it is installed:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/100_4563.jpg

Now, we'll just thread the screw into the insert:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/100_4564.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/100_4565.jpg

Don't tighten the screw all the way in, just get it started. Screwing it down tight will prevent the blade for being inserted all the way. Insert the blade:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/100_4566.jpg
See the indentation, or divit on the blade? That's where the screw contacts it and presses it against the other side of the blade socket in the hilt.
DO NOT DRILL A HOLE IN THE BLADE!!!!
It is unecessary, and may damage the blade diffuser/and or film.

Next, tighten the screw snug with the appropriate hex wrench (9/64th in this case):
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/100_4567.jpg

Now, you can have fun with your pvc saber:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/100_4568.jpg

[jedimastergarcia87]

Did you use a copper heatsink for your pvc sabers or just get the Luxeon stuff? Thanks!

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Did you use a copper heatsink for your pvc sabers or just get the Luxeon stuff? Thanks!

I didn't use a heatsink at all in these....the Luxeon I led is attached to an aluminum star base, and that acts as the heatsink for these type of led. This is mentioned several times in the topic.....

[Matakin]

Jay,

I understand you didn't use heatsink at all. But I still don't understand on how you get the Lux to be held inside the hilt?

[Jay-gon Jinn]

This was on page four....


Okay, I've had a few inquiries as to how to build these, and I really think they are pretty self-explanantory if you read the whole thread. But here's a bit of info that isn't in here:
The pvc used is 1 inch electricical conduit pvc. It's gray and can be found at any large home improvement store, or even your local hardware stores and lumber yards. those same stores will also have all the connectors and fittings....use what ever looks good to you, that's what I diod. Standard schedule 40 pvc plumbing fittings also fit the conduit pipe.

The leds are Luxeon I stars. Those can be found at any online store that sells leds. Most of those places also sell the Micropuck driver. That's what it's called and there are only three types of those drivers, I used the 350 ma version, because that's what the leds are rated for. I also used 15 deg. collimators because they are usually less expensive than the 10 deg version. I used the cheapest lens holder available as well. The lens, holder and led assembly looks like this:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/100_0801.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20pvc%20sabers/100_0800.jpg
There's nothing used to hold this in place, except the blade and the switch.

As far as the paint goes, any spray paint that is formulated to work on plastic should work. Follow the instructions on the can for preparation before painting.

As stated there, the led assembly fits in the hilt between the blade and the switch. it's simply held in place by the blae. These weren't built to be used as a regular saber that you would be removing the blade from to hang on a belt, they were built for kids to use in the charity photobooth with my local 501st, so the blades ween't meant to be removed, except for storage and transport. If you want to secrure the led somehow, it's up to you figure out how to do it.

[jedimastergarcia87]

Here is my saber so far. I don't know which battery holder to get for it though. Can I get a 1 AA battery holder since I'm just using a 1 watt LED like you Jay-gon? The second is an idea of what the OD is. Its 1" OD. I took the pics from my new phone because it has a camera. So atleast you know I'm actually making the sabers. XD

[Jedi-Loreen]

You can't run a Lux I off of only 1.5V, which is the output of a single AA battery. You need 2 batteries for 3V.

So you're going to need a battery holder that holds 2 AAA batteries to fit inside your hilt.

[LordJaivus]

Or he could use a single trustfire which is rated for 3.7 volts.

[Darthig88]

Jay
Thanks for all the info, It answered alot of Questions about building PVC sabers, One more question, How did you score the PVC to give it a grip???
If it was in any of the posts I must have missed it..

[Jedi-Loreen]

It looks like he did that the same way he does it on his sink tube shrouds and overlays. With a tubing cutter.

[Darthig88]

Yep found it, I just had to slow down on reading the posts Thanks, Now how to build the blades, Should I use a diffuser or bladefilm?
Is there a tutorial on building blades for LED Sabers????

[Jedi-Loreen]

Yes there is. In fact, Jay-gon did one.

It's the second Stickied post in the appropriate forum. ;)

[Darthig88]

Found it thanks

[jedimastergarcia87]

Loreen, I'm using a 4 AAA battery holder. My step-dad sanded out the insides then sanded some of the holder and now it fits perfectly. I think 4 AAA batteries will work fine. Also, which one of these resistors should I use?I'm thinking probably the blue colored one but I'm not sure. Anyway, Loreen, how does my saber look so far? :D

[jedimastergarcia87]

Oh, also, How do I mount my switch on? I'm using the square type from radioshack. Oh and, if I get an Ultra blade, can I just use a threaded bolt and I'd be fine? I'm getting 2 24 inch Ultra Initiate blades cause there the cheapest so I'm just going for those. My sabers will be done in a few weeks! :D

[Jay-gon Jinn]

To mount that switch, you'd just have to drill a hole that is slightly smaller than the threads on the switch and push it in. Those switches use a nut on the bottom, and getting it tightened inside the pvc tube is a nightmare.

[jedimastergarcia87]

How is my first pvc saber attempt Jay-gon? It has the kind of tape used on baseball bats as grips and o-ring grips at the top. Where the switch is at, is that where the led stuff would sit at? And, I was wondering, can I use a 24 inch ultra initiate blade for my saber or would that be too short since the switch is in the middle of the hilt? I should be getting the electronics installed today then alls I gotta do is wait for the blades. I like my saber. Looks different. I'll post new pics once its completed which should be in a few weeks, I'm hoping in two weeks. :)

[Sairon]

Blade length is entirely up to you, though I'd keep it under 36 inches.

[jedimastergarcia87]

Thanks Sairon. Sorry, I'm usually off by 10 pm my time. So the 24 inch Ultra Initiate blade would work fine? And what I was thinking about doing, I was going to put a bolt 2 inches under the coupler so the led stuff could sit on that. Plus it'd help as a blade holder too. So, how does my saber look so far as a first attempt? I'm doing a metal saber hilt here in a few months if I get on s.s.i. I was going to save up for awhile to get the hilt stuff and a crystal focus board for sound.

[cardcollector]

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=3975&highlight=blade+length+question

This thread should help you answer the blade length question.

[jedimastergarcia87]

Thanks cardcollector. I'm going with a 24 inch ultra initiate blade. will that be good for my hilt card? what i was going to do, and im sticking with it still, is put a bolt 2 inches below the coupler and the led stuff will sit on that and that'll hold the blade as well. I'm not doing my sabers exactly like Jay-gon because that would be somewhat copy righting. Or maybe if i can ill get a 30 inch blade from here and just get some gift wrap and make a blade myself.

[cardcollector]

will that be good for my hilt card[/COLOR]I'm not doing my sabers exactly like Jay-gon because that would be somewhat copy righting.

I don't understand??

There are no copyrights you need to worry about in building thses PCV sabers. Most people just give Jay the thanks for his awesome Sabers.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

It honestly would have been easier to help him had he just copied them....it's why this was posted in the first place, really. to show how east it can be be to build a simple light-up saber for very little money.

[Jedi-Loreen]

I kept trying to tell him to just do it exactly like you did them, Jay, because they are simple, and they work.

But he won't listen to me.


And I don't understand your quote, cc.

[Tradeliphine]

super ultra jedi master yoda garcia said that he wasnt going to do it like jay because that would be copyright infringement... cardcollector was merely having an anuerysm in the thread after reading it

[cardcollector]

I kept trying to tell him to just do it exactly like you did them, Jay, because they are simple, and they work.

But he won't listen to me.


And I don't understand your quote, cc.


Since there were two main topics I wanted to adress I tried to outline them in red and blue. For some reason the red wouldn't work...
I didn't understand what a "lightsaber card with a blade meant". Do you?

[Jedi-Loreen]

I couldn't even find where you quoted that from. And no, I'm not sure what he meant, either.

And there's also a feature called Multi-quote, try it next time you want to quote more than one post in a thread. ;)

[jedimastergarcia87]

Yo, don't be so rude. I just have different ideas for my sabers. I won't need to spend extra aside from two mid-grade ultra blades because we got those type of bolts here. Sorry if they don't turn out exactly like Jay's sabers but I want mine to be different. Plus he said it was ok if I did different stuff to my sabers than exactly like his.

[jedimastergarcia87]

Got my saber done on saturday finally! I'll post pics once I get the blades. Mine turned out pretty good for a first try I think. :)

[Kal El Rah]

Can't wait to see the pics.

[Titus]

Okay so a bunch of friends and I have got on a kick of building some PVC sabers! I've been mainly building the hilts and buying the LED's and lenses from TCSS! I love this place!!! Anyways I'll post some pics once I have them all together.

I need an opinion though. I bought some Acrylic tubing from a site for pretty cheap. Then I'm going to get some PEX tubing to run inside as a diffuser. I do believe it will also help the strength of the blade and make it light up nicely. My question is how do you think I should mount it to my hilt? Because I am going with PVC I'm not using any type of hold on the inside. I do have a make shift Heat sink that the LED and lenses are sitting on so should I sit the tubes down on them or use some screws???

Im new to the board and its been a pleasure reading all the cool stuff you guys have put on here.

Thanks!

[Jay-gon Jinn]

I sincerely hope you don't plan on smacking those acrylic blades together....they'll shatter if you do. You can use screws if you want to to act as a blade stopper...they're your hilts.

[Titus]

No they are mostly for costuming! More for having and playing around with them a little bit! We are having a big Star Wars Halloween this year so it should be fun having the party lit up with a ton of lightsabers! Anyways thanks for the advice on the screws. i actually saw how Ultrasabers is putting their screw in to hold the blade in place so I may use the same technique. I'll post some pics soon!

[Jay-gon Jinn]

No they are mostly for costuming! More for having and playing around with them a little bit! We are having a big Star Wars Halloween this year so it should be fun having the party lit up with a ton of lightsabers! Anyways thanks for the advice on the screws. i actually saw how Ultrasabers is putting their screw in to hold the blade in place so I may use the same technique. I'll post some pics soon!
Sounds fun! I also used the same method Ultrasabers used to use in their Initiates a few years ago. I'm not sure if he's changed it much since then, but they used to also use the threaded insert and an 8-32 socket head cap screw as well.

[jedimastergarcia87]

Kal Al Rah, I just ordered blades today! (Mid-Grade blades from Ultra). Can't wait til they come so I can finally get my saber done. I'll post pics once i get the blade on! :]


And once again, thanks for all the help Jay and sorry it took me so long to understand everything. lol.




You're welcome to the city where your future is set forever!

[jedimastergarcia87]

ok, I see how you put the blade retention bolt on now, you put it on the coupler, I didn't see that before. XD i was completely confused on how you put the blade retention bolt on, lol. By the way, how long does it usually take to preccess and ship blades from ultrasabers? I ordered 2 of the mid-grades like I said.and TCSS is back up for me as you can see, lol.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

It usually takes a couple of weeks to get something from Ultrasabers.....sometimes three depending on how busy they are.

[jedimastergarcia87]

Hey Jay, can I just buy a blade and a tip and not worry about any film? or would it look better with the film, or would it matter?

[Jay-gon Jinn]

no, you have to have someting in the blade to catch and disperse/diffuse the light from the led...if you don't the blade won't light up at all.

[jedimastergarcia87]

Yo Jay, I just ordered the thinwalled 1 inch blades and tip, I was wondering, will the gift wrap fit in the 36 inch blade length wise? i'm just doing a double wrap. also, how the tip comes with the disk, how to i put that on? our blades will be in by monday or tuesday next week so i'll have my saber done finally and pics up! :]

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Yo Jay, I just ordered the thinwalled 1 inch blades and tip, I was wondering, will the gift wrap fit in the 36 inch blade length wise? i'm just doing a double wrap. also, how the tip comes with the disk, how to i put that on? our blades will be in by monday or tuesday next week so i'll have my saber done finally and pics up! :]

you'll need much more than a double wrap....follow this to see how to do it:
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=7274

The blade tips come with the mirrored film already applied, all you need to do is remove the protective film that covers the mirror.

[jedimastergarcia87]

so get about two rolls for both blades to do a quade wrap? i was just gonna use the whole roll for a double wrap so i dont have to spend too much on the stuff.

[Jedi-Loreen]

You couldn't even fit a whole roll that you would buy, inside a blade, nowhere does it tell you to use that much. Just buy a single roll, that's enough to do several blades. The "roll" Jay is talking about in his tutorial is a single piece of wrap that he's using and rolling around a dowel, which is going to be more than just a quad wrap, I don't know why you're having so much trouble understanding that. Just get the idea of quad and double wrap out of your head, that only pertains to the Corbin film, you need a lot more of the clear gift wrap than that.

If you get a 30" roll, cut it to length and try just the width of the roll and see how it looks, you can always add more if the blade isn't even enough. If you get a 40" roll, try 3 or 4 feet. It's not rocket science, different people like different amounts. You can see just how Jay does it in his tutorial, since he took lots of pictures during the process.

[Eco]

One thing you can do to make the rolls of giftwrap go much further is to sand from one corner of the sheet to another, just in a stripe, with a sanding sponge. Your blades will have a crosshatch pattern to it, but it drastically improves the cellophane's performance.

[jedimastergarcia87]

Yo Jay, i'll have pics of my saber and my bros up in a little while. I figured out what to use ad a blade stop, someone in the shoutbox helped me. I'm going to put a bolt in between the blade and optics. Well, cya all later. have a nice rest of the week and weekend everyone!

[Titus]

Got a question...If I'm using a white Luxeon III LED would it be better to go with a 9 Volt battery to give it more juice than just 2 AAA's? I hooked it up with the AAA's and yes the light itself looks bright but its not doing a great job of lighting up the tube. I have all the correct stuff going on it just isn't as good as my Red LED. Is there something I can do to make it brighter? I've seen others using white on here and with color discs and they are much brighter than mine. Any advice would be great!
Thanks,
Josh

[vargose]

Got a question...If I'm using a white Luxeon III LED would it be better to go with a 9 Volt battery to give it more juice than just 2 AAA's? I hooked it up with the AAA's and yes the light itself looks bright but its not doing a great job of lighting up the tube. I have all the correct stuff going on it just isn't as good as my Red LED. Is there something I can do to make it brighter? I've seen others using white on here and with color discs and they are much brighter than mine. Any advice would be great!
Thanks,
Josh

Careful with that. Its true that 2 AAA don't quite supply enough voltage for a Lux III. But if you go over the forward volatge of the LED you will have to use a resistor or you will fry your LED. Check the resistor chart in the store.

[Jedi-Loreen]

Yes, vargose is right, 9V is too much, you will fry your LED. You'd need a large resistor to cut down 5 extra volts that you don't need and the excess voltage would just be bled off as heat, that resistor is probably going to get very hot.

Also, a single 9V battery isn't going to give you a good run time.

If you look at the resistor chart vargose mentions, the Red Lux III has a forward voltage of 2.95V, the white, 3.9V. I don't know how the white is lighting up at all, if you're only give it 3V.

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/resistor.aspx

If you want to spend a little more money, a better solution is to get a 1000mA buck puck from the Store and run it off of 6V: 4AAs or 4 AAAs. The buck puck will feed the LED the voltage it wants, as well as a consistant current, and will make more efficient use of the batteries than just a resistor will.

[Titus]

Thank you all for the ideas! I think I'll try out the Buck Puck route and see if that works. All I know is that right now it isn't very bright at all. I built a red saber and I'm running it off of 2 AAA's and its bright but the white has puzzled me. Thanks again,
J

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Okay, some people have claimed that this isn't really a tutorial, and it technically wasn't intended to be, to be honest....I thought it was self-explanatory if you read it and looked at the pictures....and seeing that I used few if any parts from the store, didn't feel it was right to post where I got certain things from....but anyway, I recently built one of these and took pictures, tutorial-style so I could post them for the people that don't want to read, but look at pictures...so here we go....here's what you need to start with for a very basic PVC lightsaber:

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/5782/odHNp3.jpg
Those are the basic parts I've used in the past....it is built using a 10" long piece of 1" electrical conduit pvc. It's called 1", because it has a 1" inside diameter, which is perfectly suited to the polycarbonate tubes we use to make blades from. The outside diameter is about 1 1/4", and is well suited for those with smaller hands, like children. (The intended target for these is actually kids.....) I will now detail some of the parts used.

Here's the first piece:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/5944/GB7l9Q.jpg
This is a 1" pvc coupler. It is used to glue to sections of PVC together, but we'll be using it as part of the saber's emitter.

The next piece:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/3263/9Eo5ez.jpg
This is a PVC end cap. This is used to cap off a PVC pipe. I found this one in the pvc plumbing pipe section at my local hardware store. We can use white, because the hilt will get painted later on.

This is the LED I'll be using in these:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/1650/2BE2pU.jpg
Since they are geared toward kids, not adults, and would want to avoid any potential eye damage should the blades get removed, it is a Luxeon I red. See that little white thing next to it? That's called a lens holder....it will hold the lens that will focus the light from the led up into the blade, causing it to light up. the lens that is in there is a 5 degree. We'll cover that later, though.

Here's the led driver:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/9901/bMie8v.jpg
This is called a Micropuck. similar to a Buckpuck, this one is geared towards driving a 350ma led like the luxeon I's. [These are now also available in a 500ma version that should better drive an led like a single Rebel or Cree XPE] It only requires 3 volts to light an led. This will allow the use of a 2-AAA battery holder to power the led, like this:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/9546/0rtDZM.jpg
Now, if a person wanted to skip the Micropuck, as it adds about $10 to the cost of the saber, one could make the hilt long enough to fit in a 3-AA battery holder and use the appropriate resistor. You'll have to figure that out for yourself, though, since different colors require different resistors. ;) Or, you could use a single Li-Ion rechargeable cell to power the saber as well, in a single AA holder, or make it fully rechargeable with an 18650 rechargeable cell and use appropriate resistors.

The blade retention screw threaded insert:
See the above led picture...upper right corner of the picture
These are found in the hardware store in the furniture hardware section. It is threaded on the outside like a wood screw, but has internal 8-32 machine screw threads.

The blade retention screw, and #8 lock washer with the threaded insert:
See the above led picture...upper right corner of the picture

Not shown individually, but also in the first picture:
-The switch....a simple pushbutton on/off latching switch...any kind will work, really.
-A piece of 1" O.D. thin-walled polycarbonate tubing...about 3/4" to 1" long cut from the blade stock tubing....this will house the led, lens and lens holder. More on that later. :wink:

There are some tools that will be required to complete this build....a drill (I'll be using a drill press) and a couple of drill bits (3/8", 15/64" and #29), an 8-32 tap and handle, a tubing cutter (large enough to cut 1 1/2" tubing), Hex wrenches (5/32", 5/64", and 3/32"), a soldering iron and solder, a rotary tool with accessories(Dremel or other brand, I have a Craftsman) and a saw of some sort to cut the pvc pipe with (I will be using a compound miter saw).

We'll start construction using the rotary tool with an 80 grit sanding drum to remove the divider edge in the middle of the 1" pvc coupler:

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/9577/WQ1ymb.jpg

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/817/3JxTi1.jpg

Grind it until it's flat, working with the direction the sanding drum is spinning. It should look like this when done:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/4558/0wIP5d.jpg

It will fit on the emitter end of the saber here:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/931/vNRTWU.jpg

To give it some style, I am going to cut it to match the angle on the main hilt tube:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/3113/KO3zDn.jpg

I set the saw blade to 45degrees:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/3182/YBrMZN.jpg

and cut it:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/4483/8VZRji.jpg
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/4772/7BzXEd.jpg
That'll work....just need to de-burr it....I used the sanding drum on the rotary tool for that, too.

Oh, and always remember that when you're using power tools, "Safety First":
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/6954/1E9iIz.jpg

Moving on....here's the finished coupler:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/4483/8VZRji.jpg

Now, using a second coupler, I hammered the cut coupler onto the hilt tube:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img921/8261/g6gxKF.jpg

I hammered it down about 3/4":
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/4700/sM6glK.jpg

Here's a preview of the basic hilt shape:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/7553/EyIHHd.jpg

Now, to make it look a bit more like a saber hilt, we'll add some fake grips with the large tubing cutter:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img921/1792/7OJEeZ.jpg

Fit it onto the hilt like so:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/7678/PxLmBU.jpg

Tighten it just enough to have a snug fit, and slowly turn the hilt in the cutter to leave a simple scored line:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/8274/ibOqox.jpg

Using a ruler, I marked out where I wanted the lines to be with a black sharpie marker:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/3227/Grjkts.jpg

And then scored the lines:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img921/2716/4ciZYC.jpg

The hilt now has grips:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/853/DqXt7G.jpg
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img921/5842/uRDqkM.jpg
I also laid out some towards the front of the saber, too. The large area in between the marks is where the switch will go.

Now it's time to drill for the threaded insert that will house the blade retention screw:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img921/924/IKhCW1.jpg

I set it up in the drill press and used the 15/64th" drill bit to drill a hole for the threaded insert to screw into:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/1812/EB8ETI.jpg
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/408/FiIC7O.jpg

I then used the 5/32 hex wrench to install it:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/4278/MTPSFR.jpg
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/7015/Mlf4i0.jpg
Screw it in far enough for the outside threads to disappear. Try not to go too far into the hilt with so that it won't interfere with the blade.

Then I screwed the 8-32 1/2" socket head cap screw into the insert:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/1959/1Xxj88.jpg

When fully tightened, it will keep the blade secure. It reaches just far enough into the blade socket to put pressure on the blade's opposite sidewall and hold it in:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/8453/ldW3BH.jpg

With that, the hilt work is almost complete. Now is the time to paint it if you so desire. There are pictures in the thread already that showed how to do that, you'll have to go back and read that for yourself, though.

Now for the electronics! I'll start by making the 1" x 3/4" Polycarbonate led housing:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/8452/mmF3IJ.jp
Using the tubing cutter, I cut off the piece from the end of the blade that will go into the saber. I made sure to tighten the cutter tight enough to "roll" the edge of the cut to prevent the led from falling through:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/3072/YcjKTL.jpg

Now to solder the wires to the led:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/2425/Q1F0aG.jpg
Make sure you pre-tin the wires first, it makes this much easier. Pre-tinning means getting some solder on the bare wire before you attempt to solder it to the led. The green wire in this case is the negative lead, and the orange is the positive. This matches the outputs of the Micropuck driver.

Now, fit the lens holder over the led like so:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/4633/EyhEpI.jpg
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img921/5300/Xsf6bu.jpg
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/1751/krK6uW.jpg

Then feed the wires through the PolyC housing we made earlier:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img921/5144/OjJFry.jpg
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img921/975/6Bbwps.jpg

Now, to hold it all together, I'll use some high-temp hot glue. This will hold the lens holder inside the polyC housing. High-temp hot glue will not melt with what little heat theses Luxeon I led's give off, and should also hold up with a Luxeon III. If a Luxeon III gets hot enough to melt this glue, something's wrong with your wiring!
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/7531/dYh1I0.jpg

We'll put the tip of the glue gun right up to the hole in the led's base:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img921/3945/MI4mq5.jpg

Make sure it's full of glue:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/7685/axhrXK.jpg

Now your led assembly is finished:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/7311/QYh4xe.jpg
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img921/8092/6aIWY0.jpg

The polycarbonate housing for the led will also serve as the blade stop for the blade when it's inserted in the hilt. This kills two birds with one stone!

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Now we need to drill the hole for the switch. This will require the 3/8" drill bit mentioned at the start of my last post:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img921/5572/yYgVaU.jpg

Here's the finished hole, and the switch:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img921/1286/14TQow.jpg
This is much easier to do if you use a switch like the one sold in the store at TCSS. The nut is on the OUTSIDE so you can tighten it easier.

I slid the switch up into the saber and using my index finger on my left hand, pushed it up through the hole:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/6347/r0crq2.jpg

I then installed the nut:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/4259/2fw7H3.jpg

The next thing I'll do is drill and tap for the end cap retention screw. Install the cap on the end of the hilt to ensure your holes will line up. I'll drill this using a simple cordless drill and the #29 bit for 8-32 threads:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/3396/c2wAgZ.jpg
This will give me the right size hole to use an 8-32 tap to make the threads for the retention screw.

I don't like tapping through two separate pieces, and to make the cap easier to put on and remove, I drilled the hole in the cap out with a larger drill bit, an 11/64th";
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/4572/QboxiA.jpg

I than tapped the threads in the hilt using my tap handle and the 8-32 tap:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/4096/RX8lkI.jpg

The pvc cap will fit on like so:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/1425/uTMVHH.jpg

Now I can install the screw:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/2704/amvDSg.jpg

Okay, so NOW all of the hilt work is complete. If you plan to paint the hilt, remove all of the screws, and paint it. I have painted these in the past using Krylon's Fusion Hammered Finish spray paint. It's made for pvc lawn furniture, and works quite well on these hilts:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img921/4051/s5OmKn.jpg

I usually hang them up to paint them, and do it in a well-ventilated area, like a garage:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/402/ikXM9A.jpg

Once the hilt is dry, we can finish off the wiring. This is pretty basic, and will look something like this:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/640x480q90/924/lWijUh.jpg

The red and black wires from the battery pack basically get soldered to the red and black wires on the buck puck. Red being positive, black being negative. The switch needs to go in one of those circuits. I chose the positive side of the circuit.

The connections are all soldered:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/4271/0jvB0x.jpg
and then heat shrink wrapped.

To fit this all in the hilt, I needed to bend the wires into this shape, making sure that the switch's flat side is facing towards the emitter. this is because the switch will act as a stop for the led assembly, and when the blade is inserted, will hold the led assembly in place:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img921/8418/Dr1hDb.jpg

This will get inserted into the hilt through the blade socket, starting with the battery pack:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/8620/kL7EtP.jpg

Holding the switch, I fed the wires in:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/922/uGzDV3.jpg

This is where it gets a bit tricky....the switch needs to go in so that the button is lined up with the hole we drilled for it earlier, and the back, or flat side is facing the emitter:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/6536/9eVg7R.jpg

Once it's pointing up, push it into the hilt slowly:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/432/HPgmAN.jpg

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/513/g3Kj95.jpg

Until it reaches the hole:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/1999/Kt4AtU.jpg

Now, get a screw driver that is at least 8" long:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/5796/41rr0l.jpg

Pull the battery pack out. Insert the screw driver into the bottom of the saber, going around the battery pack, and push the switch up through the hole:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/1286/E0VzJ2.jpg

Install the switch nut:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/9420/PIPfIt.jpg

Make sure the led is seated inside the blade socket by pushing on it until it stops up against the switch:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/5672/FbmH3b.jpg

Install two AAA batteries, and test it:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/3801/SVilfc.jpg

Install the blade:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/88/WqO6jC.jpg
(I know, it's not red, it's amber, I changed my mind when I was working on it.....sue me.)
See how I make the blades here: Luxeon type LED Blade Assembly Tutorial- (at least, how I do it!) (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?7274-How-to-construct-an-LED-Blade-(or-at-least-how-I-do-it))


Congratulations! You've taken your first steps into a larger world! Now you can defend the galaxy, or conquer it with your brand new, shiny, pvc saber!

[Lord Maul]

I'm locking this thread at Jay Gon's request. Basically any question you could possibly have has been answered. :cool:

[Jay-gon Jinn]

I have fixed the pictures for the tutorial section and have added a few notes to bring it a bit more up to date.

[dannv]

Looks like a couple pics are missing, but what a great project for parents and kids right now. Very cool.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Yup, a few are still missing, must be I didn't think it was necessary to back up a picture of a screw and a threaded wood insert. :/ (Although both pieces are shown in the center of the first pic.) I also have most of the pictures for the rest of the topic and may still go through it and fix what I can.