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pipster79
09-23-2007, 11:59 AM
hi, i bought a anikan ep3 saber off ebay with no working sound, tried my batter pack from my obi wan and worked nice, found it to b the speaker in the anikans one was dead, replaced with a 1 inch i had kicking around but its really quiet, is there a way i can make it louder?
also im thinking about buying the ultrasound board for it but i want to stick to the led strip, can the ultra sound work with the strip? if so how would i wire it up?

Jeb Ardunis
09-23-2007, 12:09 PM
I'm no expert, but this is my thought.

1.) You could purchase the premium speaker offered in the shop. It might be better than what you have there now.

2.) It could be the driver board itself that's limiting the volume amplification. I don't know what the power draw is on the speaker you have, but I'm willing to bet that there's not enough power being driven to the speaker to give proper volume.

3.) As far as the UltraSound and LED strip go, I'm not too sure there. I would assume the strip can be wired into the LED contact. Could you elaborate more on the LED strip's application so we (or at least myself) might know what it's use is? I'm guessing it's the power LED strip, but I could be wrong.

As I said, I'm no expert, but I thought I'd chip in my two cents. Feel free to flame me if I'm in the wrong.

Hasid Lafre
09-23-2007, 12:10 PM
Wont work.

pipster79
09-23-2007, 12:32 PM
k what i meant was i want to use the ultrasound with my stock blade, and keep the power up and down effects of it (lights going up and down the blade) i want my anikan saber to stay stock but add the ultra sound cuz the stock sounds suck

pipster79
09-23-2007, 12:34 PM
a note about the sound not being loud enough, i found out what the prob was, resonance or however its spelled lol, not proper volume behind the speaker, made chamber for it and sounds just as lonud now as my obi wan saber :)

Hasid Lafre
09-23-2007, 12:35 PM
again wont work, ultrasabers is a luxeon led sound board. if you want to stick with the led strip then your only option is A: stick with the mr sound board or B: pay an arm and a leg for a hyperdyne poo or C: convert to luxeon leds and forget the flimzy led strip.

Jeb Ardunis
09-23-2007, 12:35 PM
Ah, yeah... I had resonance as a side-thought, but I figured that it was something more technical. (I have this habit of thinking too deep on things sometimes. *lol*)

Good to hear you figured it out though. :wink:

xwingband
09-23-2007, 01:41 PM
again wont work, ultrasabers is a luxeon led sound board. if you want to stick with the led strip then your only option is A: stick with the mr sound board or B: pay an arm and a leg for a hyperdyne poo or C: convert to luxeon leds and forget the flimzy led strip.

It will work just not the way he intends it. The scrolling will be gone.

pipster79
10-21-2007, 03:40 PM
to all those who said i couldnt do it, and that it couldnt be done...ive done it, i have my crystal focus v1.2 working with stock anakin blade, and still have the scrolling effect

valeon
10-21-2007, 03:47 PM
You are just one to go against the grain aren't you? BUT with that said, nice job on getting it to work, you'll have to post on how you did it, maybe a Video to impress. I personally wouldn't use the Stock MR blade, since the CF is made to enhance the power on power off sequence of the Lux, to make it look like it extends/retracts. Then again, there are probably a few possibilities to work with, with the stock MR blade.

pipster79
10-21-2007, 03:54 PM
thanks, i think it looks really cool, works with the shimmer effect as well, but u need to change the breakpercent to 0.0 ad the slopefactor to 0.01 otherwise the blade will be to dim turnig on to notice the scrolling effect and same with power down.
soon as i can i will post a wiring diagram of how its done (u will need a stock mr board to do it along with the crystal focus), and once i put it back in the saber and have a new speaker for it i will post a video on youtube and give a link for it here

btw it took alot of work figuring it all out and testing and and all lol

pipster79
10-21-2007, 05:43 PM
ok heres a very rough diagram, the switch to the bottom right, u need to desolder all contacts and scrape the line shown so that there not conducting side to side. also the 2 red wires from the mr board to the swtich r actualy blue, i made them red cus its positive swithing, this is the reason for the scraping in between the switch. the cf is negative switching. the brown wire from the mr board i didnt show cus its speaker wire which we dont need.
legend for the wires is,
red=positive
blue=negative
green=speaker
since the mr board is getting its power feed from the lux output of the cf board its important to make sure there is no more then 5v here.
i didnt bother puting in the momentary switch cuz its no different then usual


http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/album_pic.php?pic_id=102

xwingband
10-21-2007, 06:02 PM
Okay... I see what's going on.

The MR really has no current regulation so that's what you are doing there. The CF is giving the power and the clash and all that work because it's just like giving an MR weak batteries when it clashes, it dims.

Neat idea... getting expensive though when you need both a CF and the MR board.

pipster79
10-21-2007, 08:56 PM
not when you are putting the cf in a mr saber, which is what i have done. its in my anakin rots saber, i just need a new speaker now :( on the plus side that company i found the speakers at is sending me 5 trials of both the 1.5w ones and the 2w ones with the screw mounts which ill just cut off :)

pipster79
10-30-2007, 02:56 PM
my saber is done :D :D :D cf v1.2 in my anakn rots saber with led strip and still have scroll effect :D

post a vid as soon as i can

a note about mr boards as well...ive seen somewhere on here someone said they should only put 5v to it with a max of 6, mine is safely working with 6.2 going to it, dont know if i would risk anymore tho lol

Ghostbat
10-30-2007, 04:49 PM
my saber is done :D :D :D cf v1.2 in my anakn rots saber with led strip and still have scroll effect :D

post a vid as soon as i can

a note about mr boards as well...ive seen somewhere on here someone said they should only put 5v to it with a max of 6, mine is safely working with 6.2 going to it, dont know if i would risk anymore tho lol

The designers probably put in a little slop space to make sure the board would be durable but overdriving it will tend to reduce it's lifespan as parts will be under more stress than intended. How much it reduces it will depend on way too many factors for us to predict, could be fine for about as long as it would last anyway, could halve the lifespan.

Novastar
10-31-2007, 12:49 AM
>6v in an MR is pushing it... this doesn't mean it won't "work" for a while... but you never know when it just might go poof one of these days.

6.2 is not that different though--and I hardly think the batteries will stay at that voltage for a long period of time.

That's an awfully non-standard voltage in the first place, though. 6.2???

pipster79
10-31-2007, 09:44 AM
ya not sure my self how its commin out as that much voltage runnin off 4aaa and when i put my multimeter to it thats what it came out as, with fresh batteries of course, and ya after a short while the voltage does drop. seams to b working pretty good so far, if it dies it dies lol ill go to luxeon i guess if it does

Novastar
10-31-2007, 12:05 PM
Oh, oh... then you are technically running "6v". So you should be just fine over a long period of time.

For the record, "3.6" or "3.7" volt Li-Ion batteries are NOT really at that voltage. That is their average though, and it's pretty much how battery ratings work. A Li-Ion begins at something like 4.2 and drops somewhat in the beginning to 3.8ish... maintains that area for a lonnnnng time, and then drops off a cliff quickly once the battery is depleted near the end of the cycle. Li-Ions have a very "flat" discharge rate, whereas some other cells have a more "droopy" discharge rate.

Not surprisingly, you want to suit the batteries to the project... Eandori mentioned how NiMh can handle very high current draws (such as 10A or 15A or whatever), whereas Li-Ions tend to be less able to do so. This means Li-Ions wouldn't be so good for super high "uber-bursts" of power... they are much better for steady, consistent power with a fairly "low" draw.

Low meaning in perspective... drawing 1A of current for an LED is pretty nuts! :)