blade difs?

[sithlord7768]

i was checking in the blade section for the led...whats the dif between the three blades offered...also im assuming these blades will fit in my MR conversion?

[Jedi-Loreen]

Um, did you click on each blade and read the descriptions? They tell you all you need to know.

And if you buy the MR conversion kits, they will fit.

[sithlord7768]

yes..i did read the descriptions but Im an idiot and didnt realize they were different...Im guessing if i want somthing to compare with the MR blade I should go with the corbin battle then...i like the double diffuser effect and it seams to be the right one...

[gundamaniac]

If you want something similar to the MR blade, go with the TCSS Battle Blade. The TCSS Battle Blade has a diffuser tube inside that diffuses the light from the LED like the diffuser tube in your MR blade. However, it dims quite a bit and is not the brightest option available.

The Corbin Battle Blade features Corbin's film which gives it a unique signature "core" effect, ie there is a thin line running up the blade that is a brighter version of your LED color than the rest of the blade. The more wraps of Corbin's film that are put in the blade, the more diffused the light gets and the softer the "core" effect becomes. Get at least a double-wrap of film if you're making the blade yourself; if you're buying from the store then it already comes double-wrapped.

The Corbin Show Blade is like the Battle version but with thinner walls and lighter weight. This is better to simulate the "feel" of a "real" lightsaber, in that the show blade doesn't throw the saber off balance as much as it would if it were the battle version. This is less suited to duking it out with others, but you do get light weight, better balance, and a brighter, wider-looking blade (due to a wider inner diameter for the film, and thus a wider area of illumination).

All in all, it depends on what kind of lighting effect you're looking for, how you want your saber to feel when you wield it, and what you're going to be using it for.

[Hasid Lafre]

I would like to mention that tims blades are very nice. It diffuses awsome,

What I dis was sand the inside of the diffuser tube and it gave a nice effect.

My next blade will be another tcss style thick walled blade. Awsome for dueling IMO, dont have to worry about film crinkle like corbin or ultra style films do.

[gundamaniac]

I've actually never noticed a problem with Corbin's film wrinkling. Ultra's, I have. At each impact, Ultra's film deforms and over time ends up crinkling he entire blade. So his blades look nice, just not for fighting imo. Then again, maybe a thicker walled blade would stop the crinkling as it bends less than a thin-wall...

[Hasid Lafre]

Yeah corbins does it to.

Iamnot sure about the thick Vs thin with ultras as I have seen it withthick walled blades yet but prolly soon enought.

[gundamaniac]

interesting. Well my only experience with blades has been thickwalled til I got my first Ultra, which was my first thin-wall. And that one crinkled like hell. So my theory is it's either ultra's film or the thin-wall that's causing the crinkling.

though I will be using my corbin more to see whether it crinkles...it hasn't yet, and I've been putting it through some pretty rough use.

[Hasid Lafre]

Just look at the blade and bend it yourself.

I think its cause ultra hot glues the film in and then when the rest of the film unrolls and moves and stuff like that. But without some way to reset the film its gonna wrinkle.

[gundamaniac]

Ah. I see it now. actually, more of hear it. I guess I didn't really notice cuz the blade usually doesn't flex much when it's thickwalled.

[GFORCE13]

Well I have been using only Corbin's Film in 2 Blades now and I have never had one crinkle yet and I duel with it but it is the Thick Wall, because ever since I had my 40" 3/4 EL Thin Wall snap off right at the Emitter I swore never again. But then again it is kind of my fault for telling my friend Nate it was unbreakable and he can break anything. :wink:

[gundamaniac]

Hahaha. It's great how people can break stuff like that.

Thick-walled blades don't flex as much as the thin-walled blades do, so the film won't crinkle as much/the crinkle is less noticeable...at least, that's my theory until I try out an ultra in a thick-wall or a corbin in a thin-wall.

[GFORCE13]

What's Funny is he didn't break it from dueling he just kept flexing it till it snapped right at the end of the emitter and I managed to reuse the El Wire, Diffuser and Plug and it still lit up the hard part was trying to fish the broken piece of Polycarb out of the emitter. Because these were my first 2 Hilts and I
was a Noob, I made the mistake of JB Welding the Emitter in so if the inverter, switch or wires go bad, I am screwed but I have them since 10-05 and so far so good. :wink:

[gundamaniac]

oO wow. that's great. Is he one of the types who tries to break something when you tell him that something is really strong/virtually unbreakable? Of course it's gonna break if you try to break it... :roll:

And that's awesome, having the hilt electronics last like that. Kudos to your wiring and soldering work.

[Hasid Lafre]

Ultra film crinkles worse than corbins does. and if you hot glue the very bottem like ultra does eventually the film will twist and perma crinkle.

[gundamaniac]

I thought the reason ultra's were hot-glued though was that his film was static-y as hell and would pick up particles like no other and that the hot glue was some sort of preventive measure against dust and such sliding up the film layers?

Also...I noticed that, with my saber off, if I swing around my ultra blade, each time I switch swing directions I can hear shuffling from the tube as a result of the film crinkling a bit. However, the same is not true of a Corbin-type blade. Very very strange.

[Hasid Lafre]

Ho he uses it to keep it in there. persionally I would try to use a small piece of tape in various places to hold it in.