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TimeRender
09-04-2007, 03:45 PM
I'm about to start working on my next saber, but I'd appreciate a little advice on the subject of shimming. I've got a leftover emitter shroud from a MR vader and a laser-cut "clamp" from saberkit. Neither part fits snug over the modular hilt pieces, and while the clamp fits tight over sink tube, the shroud is loose even over that. I would rather not have to cut rings of sink tube to shim the clamp if I can avoid it (though it seems to be the best solution at the moment), and I am totally stumped on what to use on the shroud. At the moment I am contemplating using tape, but I would really rather not. If anyone has any experience on the subject, let me know what you used.

Also, if anyone has a few scraps of carbon fiber sticker laying around, say two pieces that are 1x1.5 inches, I would love to take them off your hands. The pictures that Corbin posted have really whet my appetite.

ArkaiHalon
09-04-2007, 05:27 PM
i've used heatshrink to beef up parts, and to make grips.

It's 1.5 inch that I use. I've got some extra if you'd like.

Novastar
09-04-2007, 05:45 PM
If you're saying you need something on the inner diameter of the shroud for example... you might try some kind of reducer, or make your own.

You could conceivably do this with some extra sink tube that you cut out, make into a sort of curled shape and affix it underneath the shroud. It doesn't have to be pretty as it would be hidden, but might allow enough bulk for it to fit tighter onto the sink tube so that you could bolt it down.

Additionally, I'd use some electrical tape in between to absorb shock and reduce any "jiggle" if the parts aren't just perfect. I know you said you DIDN'T want to do the sink tube kind of cut thing... but it won't be as bad as you think once you attach the shroud to the other parts with a few screws.

Hasid Lafre
09-04-2007, 05:49 PM
you could try some orings.

ti-el_terall
09-04-2007, 06:06 PM
I allways use wraps of muffler tape. Its like tinfoil with adhesive.

TimeRender
09-04-2007, 07:41 PM
Thanks everyone for the advice. On Nova's word that it won't be as bad as I think, I will use sink tube and electrical tape. I didn't want to use the sink tube before because I didn't want to hack up a new tube just to get a few thin rings, but I think I may still have an old tube that I botched on an earlier saber, so I won't mind cutting it up a little more for this. Cheers!

Novastar
09-04-2007, 11:41 PM
Additionally, once you find that the thing fits the way you like... AND you're not planning on having that part prevent you from taking off/out other parts without first having to remove IT... you could add a little epoxy/glue underneath just before settling it into place and screwing the bolts in.

It ain't NEVER coming off after that. :)

Hasid Lafre
09-05-2007, 09:27 AM
With the sink tube I would also gut a small section out of the side. that way when you clamp down the clamp both of them stay tight to the hilt.

TimeRender
09-05-2007, 09:34 AM
Hasid, I don't understand what you mean and I'm pretty sure you don't understand what I mean either. Do you actually have any experience on the subject? Please clarify.

Hasid Lafre
09-05-2007, 09:40 AM
A very crude drawing.

http://img512.imageshack.us/img512/4126/untitledwf4.th.png (http://img512.imageshack.us/my.php?image=untitledwf4.png)

The grayis the hilt, the outer ring with the section missing out of it then the clamp is over it. when you clamp down on teh clamp the inner ring will shrink and tighten up.

Then it will be a tighter fit to the hilt.

TimeRender
09-05-2007, 09:47 AM
Firstly, saberkit clamps don't actually clamp, which is why I put the word in quotation marks in my original post. They call it a clamp because it looks like a clamp, nothing more. Secondly, your idea won't actually work, regardless of whether or not the clamp is in fact a clamp. While this makeshift spring would put pressure on the ID of the outer piece, it wouldn't necessarily even make contact with the OD of the inner piece. The whole point is to make the shroud and clamp fit snug over the MPS parts. Please don't take this the wrong way, but I specifically asked for advice from people who have experience on the subject so that I would get tips that could actually solve my problem.

Jonitus
09-05-2007, 10:45 AM
The times I have fit "clamps" like that to MHS parts, I use sheet styrene to build up the diameter of the MHS instead of cutting sections of sink tailpieces. It's nice because you can add only as much as you need, and if it's too much, it is easily sanded down to the correct diameter.

I use a 10 minute epoxy to secure the styrene to the MHS(roughed up with 80 grit paper to get a surface it can "grip" to) A hair dryer is excellent at softening the styrene to easily form around the MHS.

TimeRender
09-05-2007, 10:47 AM
Now there's a good idea. I think I've got some garage sale signs that might do the trick. Thanks Jonitus!

Jonitus
09-05-2007, 10:52 AM
No problem. Hope it works out for you. I'm surprised how often I have to call upon my old skills as a scratch-build modeler in my saber building (case in point - the clamp on my Yoda replica is scratch built, as is the control box...which houses both the recharge port and a recessed slide switch)