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archammer2
01-24-2006, 10:52 AM
Appologies in advance if thes equestions have been asked before, but... I'm a total idiot when it comes to power tools (probably should have gotten in some practice before I started, eh?)

I recently ordered Tim's Modular Hilt Kit(TM), and was wondering if anyone knows how thick the hilt pipe is? Specifically, how easy is it to drill through? Never worked with metal before, but I'm assuming that I'll be needing some certain drill bits I can get from Lowe's or Home Depot.

Also, does anyone know of a good soldering tutorial? (maybe something that google doesn't come up with right away?)

I had a few more questions, but I think I'm making things way too hard on myself. :P
But, I'm curious, how does one add threads to a hole so one can put a screw into it? (yeah, putting a nut on the other side sounds SO much simpler)

Again, thanks in advance and sorry if these questions have been asked a billion times before.

xwingband
01-24-2006, 12:23 PM
I don't know it's thickness but aluminum is rather easy to drill through.

Well, I can't give you a tutorial but I'll give my advice on soldering. When it's wire to wire first twist them around each other. Bring the iron up to the twisted wires to warm it up for maybe 10 seconds and it'll accept the solder easier. Then with your other hand touch the solder to the tip. It should start to melt in a stream within 1-2 seconds depending on the thickness of your wire. If you intend to do lots of soldering get the lead free kind. It's thicker but the fumes won't be harmful.[xx(] If you are having trouble getting the solder to melt either your iron isn't hot enough (whether you didn't allow it to heat well enough or it's just plain too weak) you might want to also get some flux. It's a paste that helps the solder flow once on the wires and bond better.

On soldering to boards it's very similar and the only real trick is to bend the wire or whatever you are soldering on the opposite side of the board. The solder will flow around it and seal it on the board. You can then clip the excess and make it look nice and neat.[:D]

For putting a screw into the hilt you'll need a tap. Once the hole is drilled you come in with the tap to put the threads. They tap corisponds to the threading of the screw. i.e. you have a 10-32 screw you need a 10-32 tap. Your local hardware store will have what you need. If you don't have a drill press having a V-type holder for the tube will save you from potentially ruining the tube. Also read this thread: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sabers/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=46
Hope that helps.[:D]

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scaarmor
01-24-2006, 12:31 PM
Archammer2,
I dont know how thick the pipe itself is, but I can assure you it is easy to drill through. I've easily drilled through 1" thick metal and it cant be that thick[:p]. The best way to drill through almost anything is to center punch it and then drill a small "pilot" hole- meaning a small drill bit to make a small hole so it is easier and faster to drill straight. Then just drill to the size you want through a series of progressivly larger bits.

I dont know of a soldering tutorial either, but it is also easy to to. Just give your gun time to heat up, then touch the solder to the tip to coat it- this is called "tinning". Then place the tip on the wires to be soldered, and let them heat until solder melts to them. If you are soldering small curcit boards you can also "tin" the tip alittle more to get a drop of solder on the tip and then place the drop on the board. Once there is a drop of solder on the board you can place the wire on top of the solder and gun on top of the wire. This will heat the wire and it will melt into the solder drop. Just be sure to hold the wire steady a second as the drop dries again.

For threads, you use a device called a "tap". It is just a little metal shaft with cutting threads on it- looks loosly like a drill bit. The tap tells you what size drill bit to use. Drill the hole and then the tap gets screwed into the hole all the while cutting threads. Then the tap screws out leaving perfect threads behind. Be aware that taps are for many different sizes and you have to buy the right size for the screw you intend to use. Also be aware that taps can just as easily start in the hole sideways and you have to pay careful attention to make sure you get them straight.

<font color="red">EDIT: X-wing managed to beat me to it as I was typing-I swear X-wing expect me to be in the next UPS box you get![:D]</font id="red">

Cain

***It is now that we battle.When you die, await my arrival in the afterlife where we will battle again.Perhaps there you may have the ability to defeat me,but not here,not now,not this day.So let us part with words and embrace the blade.***

Jedi Ranger
01-24-2006, 01:06 PM
One VERY important additional note: taps are hand-tools only. Do NOT attempt to use a tapping bit in a power drill.

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archammer2
01-24-2006, 01:21 PM
Hehe... Wow, such quick responses!

X-Wing:
{sarcasm}How dare you treat me like an idiot?!{/sarcasm}

Okay, so the aluminium should be easy enough (like the progressively bigger holes idea, too). I don't have a drill press, but I know someone who does. And I'll look into getting a v-type holder, as well. (being a college student and a cheap SOB, I do NOT want to ruin the tube. >_<)

I'm just going to be soldering the parts for the general kit for now... wires to the switch and mono jack. Still, I'll definitely keep your advice in mind. [:D]

I'll look into getting a tap (thanks, Jedi Ranger. I probably would have used a power drill if you hadn't told me that)... But wouldn't it be easier to just hold a nut on the inside of the tube? It'll take a little bit of room, but no one's going to see the inside of it except myself? And I wouldn't think the curve of the tube would impact it THAT much...

As always, you have my thanks!

scaarmor
01-24-2006, 01:40 PM
You can use nuts on the inside, but yeah they would take up room, loosen easily with vibration, and be a pain to assemble/ disassemble your saber. Once you have the holes tapped its as easy as screw in or out.

Thank you Jedi Ranger, I seem to have forgotten the most important rule of taps- dont break them. I guess one can sometimes overlook the obvious for them (from doing it so many times) and not so obvious for others details.

Cain

***It is now that we battle.When you die, await my arrival in the afterlife where we will battle again.Perhaps there you may have the ability to defeat me,but not here,not now,not this day.So let us part with words and embrace the blade.***

xwingband
01-24-2006, 02:03 PM
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by scaarmor


<font color="red">EDIT: X-wing managed to beat me to it as I was typing-I swear X-wing expect me to be in the next UPS box you get![:D]</font id="red">
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

I'll have to check with Tim on that but it shouldn't be long...[:D]

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scaarmor
01-24-2006, 02:05 PM
Sorry X-wing, cant hear you to well through all these packing peanuts and bubble wrap...

Cain

***It is now that we battle.When you die, await my arrival in the afterlife where we will battle again.Perhaps there you may have the ability to defeat me,but not here,not now,not this day.So let us part with words and embrace the blade.***

Strydur
01-24-2006, 06:33 PM
you cant just use a nut on the blade setscrew so you may as well learn to tap.

Tim
The Custom Saber Shop

tetmatek
01-24-2006, 06:57 PM
on the blade holders i have gotten from Tim i have drilled a hole the size of the thumb screw. Since Stainless is way harder than aluminum it will work like a self tapping screw. Just hook up some vise grips turn it in a couple turns and then back it off then clean and repeat till you go through. This method will work for those without a tap and die set. of course it always helps to have the right tools for the job.

http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/3213/sig35jo.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

archammer2
01-25-2006, 09:55 AM
Eh, guess I'm learning to tap! I'd need to learn it sooner or later anyway, right?

Found a few nice websites with tutorials and such, and I'll probably pick up some scrap pipe (or pick up some cheap stuff at Lowe's) and practice this weekend.

Again, thanks for all the help! :)

One last question... Since I'll be dealing with what seems to be some small wires, would a cheap soldering iron be sufficient? I saw one at Radio Shack for about $20 (30 watt). Found another on their web site for $15 (100 watt), though it looks to be for bigger projects.

Again, thanks for all your help. I feel kinda dumb asking all these questions, but at least I'm learning as I go, right?

Strydur
01-25-2006, 11:22 AM
One like this would be fine

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062730&cp=&kw=iron&parentPage=search

Tim
The Custom Saber Shop

archammer2
01-25-2006, 11:25 AM
Sweet. That's great! Thanks, so much!

And, thanks Tim for all the help and for giving me this kind of opportunity (i.e. "Thanks for selling me stuff!") [:D]