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View Full Version : Relationship (Blade evenness versus color?)



Eandori
08-22-2007, 09:17 AM
Quick question I wanted to bounce off you guys. After looking at TONS of pictures of people's LED sabers, I seem to notice that there are some very evenly lit blue and green LED sabers but red sabers seem to always have a large amount of flair at the hilt.

Has anybody else noticed this?

I have a green Lux K2 saber which is very even, nearly zero flair at the hilt. I have never yet personally built a red, white orange or blue Luxeon saber, but then again I have never seen a picture of red with an equally low amount of hilt-flair.

Is that just how the pictures come out? Do some red sabers appear in RL to be very even, but picture show flair?

Examples, Here is Erv's custom sabers (green and blue)
http://www.plecterlabs.com/images/gallery/TelumInfensus006.jpg
http://www.plecterlabs.com/images/gallery/AmbroiseSaber001.jpg

Here is my saber next to a master replica (Green K2 with only 1 amp)
http://home.comcast.net/~eandori/Tri-Lux_and_Luke_ROTJ_MS.JPG

Here's a picture from Killphil's thread, with a very evenly lit red saber blade.
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/gambitholic/Picture049.jpg

xwingband
08-22-2007, 09:27 AM
pictures lie and sometimes they don't...

If you want to split hairs here's another of Erv's pics and isn't as even:
http://www.plecterlabs.com/images/gallery/AlexSaber007.jpg

Red and Red/O are bright and the camera sees it differently. I would say of all colors the Red is most likely to show that huge flair in pictures.

Eandori
08-22-2007, 12:06 PM
Yeah, that picture of Erv's with a red LED is about the most Even I have seen.

So you believe the difference in flair between red and other colors is mainly due to the camera sensitivity? That's not what it looks like in person? I'm really hoping when I get around to building a red Luxeon saber that I can get the blade as even as my green.

Novastar
08-22-2007, 01:20 PM
Hi Edwin... I'll be shipping those test materials to you today... sorry I wasn't able to yesterday.

Let's see... on some thread before, I mentioned almost all of the insane variables that come into play (some we don't even THINK about) when making a saber and looking for "apples to apples" visual comparisons... especially through photos:

1. Photo settings. Every camera has a different tendency toward red or green or blue, some over-expose more, less, are clearer, are not, pick up more ranges of the nm of light, etc. So this is a BIIIIIIIGGGG deal when making "apples to apples".
2. Emitter size & how far the blade goes inside.
3. Blade size OD, ID, length, tip & mirror type.
4. The diffuser. Duh! HUUUUGGGE!
5. Ambient lighting. There is *always* ambient light, I don't care if you're in a dark room. Wavelengths are wavelengths.
6. Flash. Which brings me to camera flashes--something Edwin, Erv and I need to study... there are different types, and all of them ALSO emit different wavelengths, and thus, illuminate the subject of a photo with a "bias" of particular light waves... but maybe not others.
7. Battery solution.
8. Driver.
9. If the driver is "pulsing" the LED randomly (such as Erv's or the visually tough-to-tell Corbin's), imagine any given moment that the photo is taken. You might be "looking" at 1000ma draw... you might be looking at 800. Or 500. I don't know. Do you??!?! :)
10. LED type.
11. LED color.
12. LED bin within that type & color.
13. Optics, anyone? Are they really tight on there, or a bit loose? Acting efficiently or losing more light than that of the saber next door?

I'm sure there are a few more, but you get the point. There are JUNKLOADS of factors that come into play on whether a saber is going to look any given way.

One thing is for certain--if the stars were to align, and you were somehow to get EVERY SINGLE ITEM ABOVE all perfect perfect perfect... well, there would be your perfect saber, lit exactly the way you like.

However, since any given factor up there could be slightly "mucked up", I'd say all of us LED nerds are stuck with "apples to oranges" comparisons, with the possible quasi-exception of taking photos of our own sabers with our own cameras and changing only ONE variable at a time for comparison.

Even then--you run into problem #9 above unless you're going direct drive or something. :)

Eandori
08-22-2007, 02:01 PM
Hey Novastar,

you can always get past blade flicker on photo issues by either going direct drive or setting up the camera for long exposure. But for the issue of certain wavelengths effecting the camera differently, there is not much that can be done.

The true best way to compare is use the same saber, same room lighting, same camera, etc. etc. Just change out the Luxeon LED and run each at their optimal current. Heck, I may end up doing exactly that...

Novastar
08-22-2007, 02:42 PM
Exactly, Edwin... I understand that perfectly. It's pretty clear that testing your own saber with LED x and then swapping it with LED y (if both LEDs "want" the current being shot out)... will give you a great comparsion with only ONE variable--the LED color/type.

HOWEVER... I mean to say that when (for example):

Bob takes a photo of his saber...
and Edwin takes a photo of his...

Almost no matter HOW you slice it--the apples to apples possibility is pretty much long gone.

Eandori
09-20-2007, 03:20 PM
Hey again guys,

I have been working on updating my custom prototype saber, and I took a few shots of how even the blade was. I compared it to a few Master Replicas, one stock and one red lux III converted. Since these pictures were taken with the same camera, at the same time, in the same room, side by side it makes a for a good comparison.

First off, I'm really pleased how evenly lit my custom blade is. Beyond that, I'm now fully satisfied that just because your LED is red, does not mean your blade will be flaring at the hilt.

BTW, for blade diffusion on my proto2 saber I have a 5 degree lens, Erv's diffuser film, a thick-walled polyc. tube from TCSS, and a few layers of cellophane inside Erv's diffuser film.
http://home.comcast.net/~eandori/Red_Diffuse_compare_1.JPG

EDIT: Uploaded the other picture, here it is!!
http://home.comcast.net/~eandori/RedDiffuseComp2.JPG

Note in the dark room image how brightly the blade is flaring along it's entire length. That is a tell-tale sign of how much light is coming out and from where.

DACOTA
09-20-2007, 03:37 PM
Oh my goodnes,there is a huge difference in the mace than your custom,I mean a little less than halfway on the blade of the mace it dims down to the brightness of the maul fx,wow! :shock: What kind of blade is on the mace conversion,the stock mr?I know the proto saber has a k2 but thats not the only reason the blade is so much more even than the mace right?

Novastar
09-21-2007, 01:17 AM
Right... using Corbin's film vs. a cellophane (gift wrap) wrap... vs. a mixture... all of these give a differing result, some of which include a more even blade diffusion.

Ultimately, it is up to the owner to decide what they like the most...

DACOTA
09-21-2007, 07:21 AM
Yeah I thought so but I still want to know what the blade is on the mace,I mean its so bad[no offense] compared to the eveness of his custom.

Eandori
09-21-2007, 10:20 AM
The Blade on the Mace Windu conversion is the stock MR blade. They are not clear polycarbonate, they have an inner layer of milky white plastic glued to them. I tried several configurations of diffuser film and cellophane, or just cellophane, or just diffuser film inside the Windu. Nothing seemed to work as good as just an empty blade.

It has the same focus lens, so I'm thinking the main difference has to be in the white plastic coating in the blade. Perhaps in a stock polyc tube light bounces off the inside and travels down the tube more? I might start trying different configurations with the Mace Windu soon to see if I can improve it from where it's at.

The Proto2 saber looks just as good in person as it does in these photo's. EXTREMELY even blade, and brighter on it's entire length then the others. In the other photo that I can't upload (due to maxed out online storage) has a dark-room shot where you can clearly see the flare of light leaving the blade on the ground.

I prefer an evenly lit blade, so having a very bright LED blade that's also this bright and VERY durable is exactly what I was going for. Most people have or have seen a master replica with new batteries. So having my proto saber next to a master replica really shows how bright it is!

Hasid Lafre
09-21-2007, 10:25 AM
Take a reflective soemthing and put it in the tip of the mr blade.

From here the pic looks like it dosent ahve a reflective anythingin the tip.

Eandori
09-21-2007, 11:26 AM
Actually, it does have a reflective tip! Look again at the photo. You can see that it's brighter at the tip then in the middle section. The reflective Mirror is one of the sticky ones you buy from TCSS. That's what I have in it now.

If you photo the Windu conversion by itself, or if you just have it in a darker room by itself, it actually looks pretty good. The middle of the blade is just as bright as my Darth Maul Master Replica. So it's really "not" a bad looking blade.

It's just that when you compare it side by side with a TRUELY evenly lit blade it becomes obvious how much flare you get, even with a reflective mirror and a 5 degree lens.

Simply put, Erv's dual film method in a clear blade rocks the house. This just makes it obvious.

Hasid Lafre
09-21-2007, 11:33 AM
Was the reflective film on a flat surface?

Eandori
09-21-2007, 11:43 AM
Well, I think so... I can't say 100% for sure but I think so.

When I converted the Mace Windu to Luxeon, the kit only came with the aluminum blade mount, and LED mount plus a few small parts. Meaning you need to re-use the MR blade. When I removed the MR-LED strip and all the foam/red tube, then what you have left is a thin walled Polyc tube with the white plastic inside and a glued tip on the end. So I was never able to remove the tip and inspect it.

First, I had to cut several inches off the MR tube since I didn't want those holes in the tube to weaken it and also the tube does not go as far into the hilt. Then, I balanced the reflective mirror-sticker on the end of the red tube which used to be inside the blade and slid that mirror all the way up the tube while holding it vertically. When the mirror-sticker got to the end, I tried to stick it to the end then mash on it with the red tube to make sure it's flat.

So sure, it's possible that the mirror is not totally flat. If it was, then the tube would probably be more even then it is. Ultimately, the BEST option would be to rebuild another tube just like on my Proto2 saber and install that into the Mace Windu MR. I see no reason why the Mace Windu with a different blade could not be as evenly lit as my Proto 2.

Going back to your mirror questions though...

When I was building the blade on my Proto2, I got all the film set inside before I glued a mirror to the tip and installed it. So what you see in the picture for my Proto2 is ALMOST the same as the tube before the mirror went in. I would say the mirror made the last 1/3 of the blade much brighter, and the "hilt flare" slowly diminished over the first 2/3 of the blade.

What you see in the pictures of the Windu is not even close to what Proto2 blade was without the mirror. Proto2 blade without a mirror was FAR more even already then MR was.

Again, I blame the milky white inner coating. When I get home from work tonight, perhaps I'll switch the proto2 blade into the Maul just to test...

DACOTA
09-21-2007, 12:10 PM
The middle of the blade is just as bright as my Darth Maul Master Replica. So it's really "not" a bad looking blade.
Simply put, Erv's dual film method in a clear blade rocks the house. This just makes it obvious.


Thats what I said about the mace and maul, and yes erv's does rock!

With the mr blades its a diffuser thats connected to the tip of the blade,I'm guessing the mace is the same.If you take a pipe cutter and pinch the edge between the tip and the blade you can get it off and the whole thing slides out.

Hasid Lafre
09-21-2007, 01:42 PM
Cheaper alternative.

Take to trashed batteries and tape them togeather and put them in the blade and work it like a slide hammer effect.

What ultra does with his conversions that reuse the mr bladeholder he removes the tip. cleans up the tube then takes a poly carb tip that he has made for them. puts the reflective rilm on it them glues it back togeather then he puts his bladefilm in.

You could do the same thing. the best thing for a stock unmolested blade is a mirror.

I know thats what people did back in the day. just put a mirror in them.

Eandori
09-21-2007, 02:40 PM
Well, my MR conversion does have a mirror, but it's probably not very flat :)

I think my next step with that MR Conversion will be to buy a thin walled Polyc tube and do the same stuff that I did on my Proto2 saber. Mirror-tip, Erv's diffuser film inside, and a few layers of Cellophane inside of that. :)

I like that option even more because it seems like TCSS thin walled tubes are still stronger then MR blades. Anybody ever compared those for durability?

DACOTA
09-21-2007, 03:27 PM
I havent yet,both my maul fx's have thin walled,so I could compare them,let me go see tomorrow at my friends house.I'll see if I can make a short vid.

Hasid Lafre
09-21-2007, 03:33 PM
The thin walled blades a unfreaking believable, I love them.

I have done some hard dueling with them and the only thing thats happened is my tip shifted. It dident pop but it just kinda stayed in ther but crooked.

But then again it wasent a compleated blade. I assembled it myself with a different glue than what tim uses.

But so far after the re-gule'n its held up freaking awsome. It seems the second time I glue my tip's back on it dosent come off again.

The best thing about them is there still just as strong as the thickwalled blades but they are so much lighter. my hilt has got some heft to it so it gives the almost weightless blade feeling.

I have to put work into my swings, And they light up awsome. Iam gonna try some sanding with a gun barrel brush to get rid of the oh look I can see the bladewall.

I would highly recamend them for more than just a "show blade".

I will get another thickwalled blade so I can sand the inside alot to get a sort of middel ground of thickness's between thin and thick walled blades.

Eandori
09-21-2007, 08:23 PM
Ok, I got home and uploaded the other picture. It's been edited into that post on page 1, more side by side comparisons where you can REALLY see the differences.

Jay-gon Jinn
09-21-2007, 09:22 PM
I'm really starting to like the 1" thin-walls myself. I put together three blades for my MHS/Hardware sabers using double-wraps of Corbins' film and full rolls of Ultra's DIY bladefilm. The result was a bright blade that was very evenly lit:

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/My%20Polished%20Brass%20MHS%20and%20Sinktube%20Sab er/000_0124.jpg

I had to play with the settings on the camera to get that picture, but it's really close to what the blade looks like in person. I haven't taken pics of the red and the blue one yet, but I could if anyone was interested in seeing them.

Novastar
09-22-2007, 03:54 AM
Jay-Gonn... I'm *always* interested in seeing what you come up with, heheh!

Eandori... I have now completed making a bunch of thin-walled blades (for BOP III). About 6 or 7. At least 4 of those so far were the final keepsake of "cannibalized" MR sabers that were de-constructed during the BOP I days. Glad I kept them--I almost just tossed them! Actually, some were, heheh. Anyhow... the additional 3 that I just made were TCSS poly-C tubes. I cannot tell any difference, although if I absolutely had to guess--I might say the TCSS blade-walls were thicker.

But not by more than a hair or so... and besides--we can eliminate this postulation by asking Tim directly about the exact ID, OD, etc. Although yes there will be variance.

Further--doesn't Tim ALREADY say so??? --->

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/pc-920-15-1-thin-walled-polycarbonate-40-long.aspx
1"OD 7/8"ID 1/16" walled Polycarbonate tube 40.5" long. This is considered a thin walled tube. Price: $7.99

As near as I can recall--the MR blades are indeed 1/16" walled. That doesn't mean it is the same caliber of poly-C *QUALITY*. That... I've not a clue.

Anybody? Anybody? ........... Bueller??? :)

Hasid Lafre
09-22-2007, 04:31 AM
I can tell you that the mr blades dont have a 1" od so it makes the sidewall less a bit. and MR blades arnt exactly a polycarb product, its like a cheap plastic to look like polycarb.

Novastar
09-22-2007, 04:45 AM
Thanks for the info, Hasid... that will definitely help me as BOP III moves forward... I'll keep track of which blades (if any) fail/break first.

With this information, I seriously think the TCSS blades will go the distance and the MR stuff... uh... won't. :o

killphil
09-22-2007, 06:19 AM
Eandori, I'm curious as to what kind of optic you are using, is it collomitter(doubt I spelled that right :P ) or a reflective?

And how far into the hilt is it seated, i.e. how many inches does the blade go into the hilt?

I've never seen a Lux saber that didn't at least show a small tell tale sign of a base flair. Your pics are the most even I have ever seen.

tobu
09-22-2007, 09:27 AM
the proto2 is a RED lux or a RED/ORANGE one?
And the Mace conversion?

DACOTA
09-22-2007, 09:24 PM
Yeah I just got back from my riends house aka Ryu-kenjushi,and he hits pretty hard and it held up well even with the ambroid pro plastic welder.
So thay are good but the bending annoys me,somtimes.

Eandori
09-23-2007, 01:29 AM
Eandori, I'm curious as to what kind of optic you are using, is it collomitter(doubt I spelled that right ) or a reflective?

And how far into the hilt is it seated, i.e. how many inches does the blade go into the hilt?

I've never seen a Lux saber that didn't at least show a small tell tale sign of a base flair. Your pics are the most even I have ever seen.
That's quite a compliment! Thanks! I got my "how to" instructions from Erv' but I definitely but a lot of effort into an evenly lit blade.

My optics are the 5 or 6 degree clear plastic lens's that you can buy from TCSS or Plecterlabs. I used a glue gun to mount the lens to my Luxeon heatsink because I quick change Proto2 from Red-Orange to Green.

For the blade-emitter depth, that's just stock of what comes with Tim's TCSS parts. Here's a close up of the hilt with arrows pointing out where the blade depth is. FYI, I use a thick blade and with all that weight it holds up great.
http://home.comcast.net/~eandori/TCSS_6.JPG


the proto2 is a RED lux or a RED/ORANGE one?
And the Mace conversion?
The Mace Windu is a red Luxeon III at whatever current the 6-AA cell MR board gives it. I didn't measure. The Proto2 saber has a red-orange K2 overdriven at 1 amp.

Just for completeness, here's a shot of my Proto2 next to the same MR Darth Maul, and next to a MR Luke Skywalker. In this picture, Proto2 LED has been switched for my Green Luxeon V at 1 amp (definitely my brightest setup overall)
http://home.comcast.net/~eandori/TCSS_5.JPG

Thanks for the info on the thin-walled blades guys, I'm definitely going to check them out!!

Hasid Lafre
09-23-2007, 10:56 AM
I dident think erv recamended using a 5w led on his board a while back?

Oh well thats cool anyway, another reasion for me to get a 7.4v battery pack.

xwingband
09-23-2007, 11:48 AM
I dident think erv recamended using a 5w led on his board a while back?

Oh well thats cool anyway, another reasion for me to get a 7.4v battery pack.

Nah... He was more cautioning that you need to be aware that a 7.4V battery pack is BARELY enough and that at it won't maintain constant brightness throughout the life of the battery given that when it get's lower it drops below a good voltage.

Hasid Lafre
09-23-2007, 12:03 PM
Ahh I see. thanks x

Jeb Ardunis
09-23-2007, 12:21 PM
Not sure if I'm posting this in the right area, but I figure here would be the best place to ask.

I've seen Lux III and Lux V Cyan LEDs, but wasn't there a K2 somewhere at one point? I've seen it mentioned, but I don't see it in the shop.

While we're on the subject, since I'd rather kill two birds with one stone here, which cyan LED would be the best to use for a blade on the saber I'm starting to work on?

The idea in question for those of you who might not have seen it (even if it's just in discussion phase, the thread can be found here. (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3491)

As always, if I'm in the wrong for posting here, flame away, or even better, flame the inbox so we don't have threads a smokin'. I'd hate to have people see their threads get hijacked by flaming. 8)

killphil
09-23-2007, 12:23 PM
the Proto2 saber has a red-orange K2 overdriven at 1 amp.

I'm curious as to why you chose the red/o K2 as opposed to the red/o lux III. The lux III is so much brighter than the K2 and really doesn't require much more amperage or voltage.

Hasid Lafre
09-23-2007, 12:29 PM
Lumen ratings are bunkiss.

They brought the lumen number down to match what it really is compared to the other k2s

Xwing mentioned that not to long ago.

killphil
09-23-2007, 01:16 PM
I'm pretty sure that the Lux III red/O is the single brightest way to go to get a good red blade.

I mean, I haven't seen the red K2's but anyone who has seen them, has noted that they are not as bright as the IIIs.

But that might have to do with the fact that the red K2s are only avail in 1A format as opposed to the 1.5A format of the rest of the K2s and it's the amperage that we usually drive the Lux III red/o's on Erv's board

Hasid Lafre
09-23-2007, 01:18 PM
Yep, if they were a higher current version of the k2s than they would spank the lux3 but as it stands from what I have seen they compare pritty well.

Edit:
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb168/Sidneyious/Lightsaber%20Pics/Other%20lightsaber%20Pics/K2redvsL3red.jpg

Persionally Iam gonna get a k2 red orange and drive it at 1.5a and see how well it compares to my friends resistor drive lux 3 red.

xwingband
09-23-2007, 01:39 PM
That's a bad comparison... a conversion isn't the same as a resistor run saber. It doesn't mean a whole lot. That's one of Ionsaber's hilts too... I never know what is going on with them.

For lumen count the III still rules for those Red's. Is the K2 going to look weak, no. The best still should be a III though.

Hasid Lafre
09-23-2007, 01:42 PM
I actually got that pic from someone over at fx sabers.

xwingband
09-23-2007, 01:43 PM
I know... its Morbius' pic for the Ionsabers curved hilts.

Hasid Lafre
09-23-2007, 01:46 PM
Actually Shadowlynx posted the pic. the ani in the bottem of the pic is his.

killphil
09-23-2007, 10:16 PM
OK, I wrapped myself some Erv style blades as well today, I did 3 of them.

One is a thickwall. It uses a quad wrap of Corbin and a roll of Ultra's film minus 70-80 cm(hereafter known as "lots of Ultra").

The second is a thinwall with a double wrap of Corbin and 35 cm of Ultra's film.

The last blade is a re-used MR tube, sanded on the outside with 400 grit sandpaper using double wrap of Corbin and 35 cm of Ultra's film(I didn't take pictures of this blade, though I might add them in later....)

So here they are. 1st up. My Lux V Overlord with freshly charged Ultrafires using Quad wrap Corbin in a thick wall on left, a quad wrapped corbin w/lots of Ultra in a thickwall in the middle, and a double wrapped corbin w/35cm Ultra in a thin wall on the right:

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/gambitholic/olcorbinupright.jpghttp://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/gambitholic/olcombothick.jpghttp://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/gambitholic/olcombothin.jpg

And here it is again, using the thickwalled quad w/lots of Ultra on the carpet:

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/gambitholic/olcombocarpet.jpg

Here is my Vader Lux III with Lithium E2s that have been in the saber for several weeks. Standard thickwalled Ultrablade on left, thickwalled quad w/lots of Ultra in the middle, and then the double wrapped Corbin/w 35 cm Ultra film on right:

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/gambitholic/ultrabladethickwall.jpghttp://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/gambitholic/vadercomboupright.jpghttp://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/gambitholic/vadercombothin.jpg

And here's the standard Ultrablade thickwall on the carpet:

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/gambitholic/vaderultrabladefloor.jpg

Quad wrapped Corbin w/lots of Ultra thickwall on carpet:

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/gambitholic/vadercombothick.jpg

And the thinwalled double corbin w/35 cm Ultra on the carpet:

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/gambitholic/vadernewdiffusion.jpg

Here is the Overlord with quadwrapped Corbin film in thickwall and the Vader w/standard Ultrablade thickwall on carpet side by side:

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/gambitholic/ultracorbin.jpg

And here they are again, with the new diffusion. Vader with thinwall double Corbin and 35 cm Ultra; and Overlord w/thickwall quadwrap and lots of Ultra:

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/gambitholic/newdiffusion.jpg

And here they are one more time, with blades opposite from above:

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/gambitholic/newdifusion2.jpg

The verdict? Very impressed with this combination. More like, blown away! It's easily the most evenly lit luxeon blade I've seen in person.

I felt the quad wrapped Corbin with lots of Ultra film seemed to provide the most solid look to the blade when veiwing it in real life. You can't see through the blade at all as opposed to the thinwall double Corbin w/35cm of Ultra film: this has a slight transparency to it in person, though it's not all that bad, in all honesty.

I have the quad/lots of Ultra in my thickwall, so naturally, it looks slightely dimmer than it's counterpart. I'm interested to see what the diffusion would look like if I swapped blades, but it was such a hassle getting them set up this way, I'm just gonna leave em.

Furthermore, the thinwalled doublewrapped combo blade still does show a subtle coring effect but on the quadwrapped w/lots of Ultrafilm, the core is pretty much gone.

On another note, I'm half convinced Ultra gave me a cyan lux III by accident, as the red/O is clearly kicking the V's butt here :lol: And like I said before, the V has freshly charged Ultrafires in it, while the III has weeks old Lithium 2's.... :?

Hope you enjoy these.

Hasid Lafre
09-24-2007, 08:45 AM
Ok so iam just tryign to figure this out. when getting a quad wrap do you just order 2 double wraps and stuff them in there?

Jay-gon Jinn
09-24-2007, 12:51 PM
No, there's now an option to buy a quad wrap in the store.

xwingband
09-24-2007, 01:20 PM
Ok so iam just tryign to figure this out. when getting a quad wrap do you just order 2 double wraps and stuff them in there?

Jeez, you've been totally off the ball lately... sleep more or just stop going http://i.somethingawful.com/forumsystem/emoticons/emot-protarget.gif

Hasid Lafre
09-24-2007, 01:23 PM
Ya knwo before it was I just dident care. well now I could give a hoot.

It was a simple question and thanks jay for a nice answere.

Eandori
09-24-2007, 08:34 PM
I'm curious as to why you chose the red/o K2 as opposed to the red/o lux III. The lux III is so much brighter than the K2 and really doesn't require much more amperage or voltage.
Simple answer really, because while doing debugging/development help for Erv' my red Lux III got fried. I discovered that when you "hot plug" your Luxeon between a Lux V and red Lux III you need to power cycle your Crystal Focus board. Because earlier versions only set the LED forward voltage on first boot. So if you go from Green Lux V (6.85v forward) to Red Lux III (2.95v forward) your LED is gonna get popped :)

I'm also working with Novastar and he mailed me a bunch of saber parts so I could keep helping develop some new features and offer advice for his stage props. Of the stuff he sent me, was a few Red-Orange K2's. So I popped the red Lux III off the star and mounted the K2. I originally wanted to go back to a new Red Lux III, but the K2 is doing pretty well.

Novastar
09-26-2007, 11:30 PM
On that note, let me know what other stuff you need, Eandori... as you know, I'm happy to help fund/support the ClashFlash thing... :)