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xwingband
08-21-2007, 04:44 PM
This is mostly to Tim or Corbin, but since four of us active people wanted a lead on what Madcow used to cover his switch I don't think it's a bad idea at all to see if we can get something like it carried.

Maybe even a line of covers for the switches carried could be made...

Here's the idea I have after seeing how Parks did it: He made a knurled cap with a milled/drilled in recess on the back. This recess then fit tightly over the switch stalk.

I think this has potential because there are a few prequel sabers with knobs that could make decent covers. One knurled like Obi TPM and Qui-gon's, one with a "coin edge", a blank one, etc... Maybe they could be plain so we could paint them, or I'd love anodizing them.

vortextwist
08-21-2007, 04:50 PM
I think they would sell fast.

xwingband
08-21-2007, 05:21 PM
I know in 90% of cases where I'd buy the pushbutton I'd want a cap. Plus... we'd have the Modular Switch System!

My only reservation in suggesting it is the volume that might be required for something so small.

Tenric Starkindler
08-21-2007, 05:55 PM
great idea.
Would be nice to have options other than a black or rubber knob protruding from the saber. In some designs it just doesn't work well.

Jetsi
08-21-2007, 06:19 PM
great idea.
Would be nice to have options other than a black or rubber knob protruding from the saber. In some designs it just doesn't work well.

Agreed, I don't like any of them in their current configuration. Being able to cover it, however, would open a cornucopia of possibilities.

Bold is the word of the day on the calendar :P .

Jetsi
08-21-2007, 06:19 PM
great idea.
Would be nice to have options other than a black or rubber knob protruding from the saber. In some designs it just doesn't work well.

Agreed, I don't like any of them in their current configuration. Being able to cover it, however, would open a cornucopia of possibilities.

Bold is the word of the day on the calendar :P .

xwingband
08-21-2007, 06:41 PM
Just so others have a good idea here's a picture of it on a Parks:

http://parksabers.com/image/qv-deuce/2.jpg

It's not a complete cover... it's still the same switch with the bezel and all. It's just more in the SW universe by adding it.

vortextwist
08-21-2007, 06:47 PM
I must have that saber!! :evil:

ArkaiHalon
08-21-2007, 07:06 PM
i'd buy them, not only for switches, but just general saberbling.
And yes, the Vos saber is awesome.

Strydur
08-21-2007, 07:18 PM
So just a cap that will cover up the pushbutton on the switchs we sell?

xwingband
08-21-2007, 07:27 PM
So just a cap that will cover up the pushbutton on the switchs we sell?

Yup, pretty much that simple.

ArkaiHalon
08-21-2007, 07:51 PM
So just a cap that will cover up the pushbutton on the switchs we sell?

yes, and buy them we would.

Ravage179
08-21-2007, 08:16 PM
here is the switch set I am using on two of the sabers I am building for my group, notice the brass "thumb nut" this is what I plan to cap the switch with, and i can confirm Madcow uses the same type idea, just a blank aluminum cap drilled just deep enough to snugly fit the switch, i suggest not selling them with the drilled hole just so the end user can dill them to fit the switch they have.
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1055/525519101_fb99f0a9b4_b.jpg

Firebird21
08-22-2007, 04:24 AM
i suggest not selling them with the drilled hole just so the end user can dill them to fit the switch they have.



This is a good point, but there are many on here that are not comfortable drilling the hole, so it may be a good idea to have the option of with or without the hole predrilled.

I know I'd want it predrilled, just because I don't have the tools to drill it straight and not ether mar the crap out of the cap, or cut up my hands. Not that is isn't possible, but I'd rather not attempt it. :wink:

Hasid Lafre
08-22-2007, 04:30 AM
that hilt is missing the black knob.

But yeah I love the idea of a cap for the buttons. Makes searching for a cool button alot less annoying.

Iam trying to figure out my switch setup for my next hilt and Iam just confused again as to what will work with how the hilt will look. I would love tact switches but I dont want to do the work of mounting them.

Ravage179
08-22-2007, 05:57 AM
maybey tim could put the drilling as an option like the drill and tap for thumscrew?

xwingband
08-22-2007, 06:03 AM
maybey tim could put the drilling as an option like the drill and tap for thumscrew?

I'd like them already drilled... those tiny things are just asking for an accident. I've already marred my hands enough. :?

I think they should be set and ready to work with the existing switches. Anything else should be our problem to deal with.

Barmic Rin
08-22-2007, 06:10 AM
Tim, if you build it, they will come.....


That is exactly what my saber is missing! Having the rubber cap on the button next to a thumb screw just doesn't look right! One of these in red would so complete it!

I like the Un/predrilled option, maybe have four colours too. Red, Black, Chrome & Brass, that way we're all happy!

Strydur
08-22-2007, 10:12 AM
Ok..I will get something going. Now is the time to submit your design ideas if you have any requests.

Luke-SkyMarcher
08-22-2007, 10:22 AM
Yes! I love this Idea, have been contemplating it myself for some time. Here is my idea. In addition to having a piece like this for pushbutton switches, I think we should have rotary switches as well, preferably ones which the same piece can be used on. I did an experiment with this a little while back, using a 10-32 knurled nut and a rotary switch.
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u228/Luke_SkyMarcher/Copyofsaber016.jpg
I like the rotary switch because there is absolutely no way you can accidentally turn it off in a duel, unlike pushbutton switches.

xwingband
08-22-2007, 11:43 AM
Ok..I will get something going. Now is the time to submit your design ideas if you have any requests.

knurled... like this:
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/bf/Knurling_closeup.jpg/300px-Knurling_closeup.jpg

"Coin edge" like this on the graflex thumbscrew:
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/images/PRODUCT/icon/904.jpg

Then a plain one, perhaps larger.

Firebird21
08-22-2007, 12:46 PM
I'd like them already drilled... those tiny things are just asking for an accident. I've already marred my hands enough. :?



Yeah, we know how well you and drill bits get along... :roll:



Don't do this:
http://img144.imageshack.us/img144/8418/handdontbq7.jpg

The black line on the inset is ROUGHLY where my skin is torn. This is much cleaner too. I had to push a pea size bit of meat back in when it first happened.[:p]

Lord Maul
08-22-2007, 12:49 PM
Maybe a Cone knob for luke rotj V2s for the switch cover.

something like this
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v606/directorcass/186_8674.jpg

TimeRender
08-22-2007, 12:57 PM
Seems like a simple way of approaching a functional graflex-type button would be to machine a custom nut rather than a cap. As for possible caps, something resembling a thumbscrew would be nice, or a modified glass eye. I have also liked xwings suggestions.

Barmic Rin
08-22-2007, 01:51 PM
I like the size of the rotary one on the MR maul, but Knurled please Tim!

I like X's ideas, but I must have a knurled for mine!

Darth Lars
08-22-2007, 02:00 PM
I like the rotary switch because there is absolutely no way you can accidentally turn it off in a duel, unlike pushbutton switches.
For me, the ideal prequel red button switch would be a one that you first had to rotate before it would be possible to push it.


knurled... like this:
I would prefer a good replica of the real button. The real one had female knurling, i.e. the negative of what you posted.
If it was good and accurate, I would probably buy a few just to replace inaccurate ones I have on some static sabers of mine.


Seems like a simple way of approaching a functional graflex-type button would be to machine a custom nut rather than a cap.
A real Graflex button, or a good replica, is already functional. It has a disc that gets pressed down to make contact with two leads which completes the circuit. You could also place a switch under the button that gets pressed on.

xwingband
08-22-2007, 02:57 PM
knurled... like this:
I would prefer a good replica of the real button. The real one had female knurling, i.e. the negative of what you posted.
If it was good and accurate, I would probably buy a few just to replace inaccurate ones I have on some static sabers of mine.

I wasn't looking for a full blanking cap replica... it's just a cap to cover our switches that would look like it. Being as it is a functional thing a fully accurate blasting cap would do us no good... as it's essential just a screw?

Are some of us talking in two directions... the functional screws and stuff seen on the sabers OR the switch add-on I was thinking of?

I always get confused on the knurling of negative vs. positive... no where ever shows a danged picture either as I'm sure it's probably obvious, but my mind can't grasp it by description alone.

ArkaiHalon
08-22-2007, 03:44 PM
I'm thinking switch cover.

Darth Lars
08-23-2007, 02:38 AM
I wasn't looking for a full blanking cap replica... it's just a cap to cover our switches that would look like it. Being as it is a functional thing a fully accurate blasting cap would do us no good... as it's essential just a screw?
I was still thinking of switch covers. Personally, I'd rather have replicas with buttons that I can push or turn than simple thumbscrews. I want my items to look and feel like they belong to the Star Wars universe, not like they belong to a movie set.

If you want to attach one over a tapped hole then it would not be difficult to glue it onto a headless screw -- and there you would have a thumbscrew!
The button stalks were never seen on the real props anyway.
Just don't miss the opportunity to make the visible part of the buttons accurate if you can.

xwingband
08-23-2007, 08:06 AM
Cool! We are completely on the same page then.

Got any pictures of "accurate"? Both my Parks' are different and without Romans... I'm not sure where one could find a replica out there.

TimeRender
08-23-2007, 08:31 AM
Seems like a simple way of approaching a functional graflex-type button would be to machine a custom nut rather than a cap.
A real Graflex button, or a good replica, is already functional. It has a disc that gets pressed down to make contact with two leads which completes the circuit. You could also place a switch under the button that gets pressed on.

What I was trying to say is that in addition to a cap that could go on the end of the switches that Tim sells, he could also offer a custom nut. Tim doesn't sell functional graflex buttons right now. I'm fairly certain that what he offers are nothing more than a decorative screw. But a custom nut would make the switches that he already sells look more similar to a Graflex button. I don't think it would be perfectly accurate, but most of us aren't too worried about that anyway. I also don't think he should offer it to the exclusion of offering caps. Personally I would like to see both.

xwingband
08-23-2007, 12:24 PM
given the info and a few pic from Lars, I'm confident that the cap on my Parks is as accurate as anyone would want.

Width: 14 1/4 mm
Thickness: 5.0 mm

http://www.incomsabers.com/images/knurl.jpg

Yes, that's the stalk of the button still on it... I broke it trying to remove the cap. Oh well...

gundamaniac
09-22-2007, 12:57 AM
I'm loving the idea of these new switch caps...Is there any chance that these will actually be made? :D

Corbin_Das
10-02-2007, 10:04 AM
This isn't exactly the same thing, but here's a design I submitted for a switch cover that would keep it from being accidently hit:


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/corbin_das/cap.jpg


Even something like this could still have some sort of "cap" I suppose.


Corbin

gundamaniac
10-02-2007, 10:12 AM
I've got something like that on my saber right now...which is essentially just two of the locking rings (the one that comes with the switch) taped together. It'd be nice to have it as one piece =D

xwingband
10-02-2007, 10:15 AM
That looks like a PITA to get on... because it would also protect you from screwing down the existing ring. :?

gundamaniac
10-02-2007, 11:20 AM
Oh. I just looked at the diagram again...so it's a cap that goes over the switch, then the existing ring screws down and pins the cap in place? I was imagining more it being like the existing ring, but about 2-3 times as tall so that the walls of the ring would prevent you from hitting the switch accidentally. I can take pictures of what I mean tonight; I have something like that on my current lightsaber.

Corbin_Das
10-02-2007, 11:37 AM
In order to keep the contour on the ring to blend into the saber, you can't have it spinning. The only way to do that is to have it in two sections: a contoured base and a threaded top section that replaces the retaining nut. That was actually the original design of this, but trying to simplify things lead to the one piece setup you see above. Here's the original design:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/corbin_das/cap2.jpg

I suppose if you wanted something neat, but more complex and therefore more expensive, you could have the two piece setup with a cap that goes over the switch stalk and fits down inside the top retaining section. That would allow for a whole new look. You could even change out the caps for crystal looking pieces, black, red or whatever other color you want, or even have them in brass, copper or silver.


Corbin

gundamaniac
10-02-2007, 12:03 PM
The countoured base wouldn't necessarily fit some recessed pre-machined switch holes, right? In that case, I'm all for the two-piece section. That way, if someone has a recessed switch hole they can skip the countoured base and just use the threaded top section. Truly modular, though a bit more costly because of the two pieces...

ArkaiHalon
10-02-2007, 12:23 PM
Yeah, what he said.

Corbin_Das
10-02-2007, 12:30 PM
Considering they aren't made yet, they could be made to fit whatever setup we wanted. If the diameter of the thing was larger than the 19/32" flat spot surrounding the switch hole, then you wouldn't even see that area when it was installed.
If you wanted a replacement retention nut that was just taller, that would be a fairly easy thing to make I'd say. It would require the flat spot be milled on the hilt though, but it's an easy thing to have the shop do.


Corbin

DACOTA
10-02-2007, 12:58 PM
Wow ,where did this topic come from ,or how did I miss it? :shock: I love this. The M.S.S. system.[Modular switch system]Woohoo, woohoo, woohoo.

I need to draw somthing up. :D I love the red knurled cap from the maul and other sabers,it really does give you a more star warsy feel.And it would look sweet in colors.

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h146/DACOTA007/Switches.png Hope you guys can see those. :oops:

Bescherman
10-02-2007, 04:13 PM
Cracking idea. I've always felt (for a year of lurking here) that the switches are the one thing that really let the sabers down. They just generally look so naff on that nice shiny metal hilt.

I was pondering carefully dremelling down the outer screw thread of the switch to just what is needed to secure it, then cutting the length of the push switch down so you actually have to push it slightly inside the surrounding threaded part. That was my workaround for the crappy looking plastic/rubber switches that look very easy to accidentally hit.

However, this is a MUCH better solution! I'd definitely buy it.

gundamaniac
10-02-2007, 05:58 PM
Like I said, I'll take a picture of my setup when I get home. It's essentially as Corbin described in his last post- a longer version of the retention nut. I was thinking that we could have a longer version of that nut, along with an optional contoured curved piece. That way, people who had recessed milled switch holes machined in their MHS pieces (like me) can use the new nut, and those needing to mount onto a curved surface can use the new nut with a contoured piece.

LAN-ED-TUL
10-04-2007, 03:56 PM
i had a idea to use a switch box from parks and just use tims switch in the recessed hole in the hilt, polace the box over it with a hole drilled for the button to go thru. and another hole drilled thro box and into hilt. the hilt hole would be tapped to bolt the box down with. that would give you a side guard and prevent you from accidental hittin the switch.

the box i was intending to use was the R-type box.

but seeing as the part was 10 bucks and the shippin was 12.50, for a total of 22.50 for just a lil aluminum box, i said forget it, i will make my own instead.

so i plan on a similar type setup using maybe some aluminum railing of some kind thats beefy enough to use.

or ebay has one of parks clamps with the box mounted on it, that can be done in a similar fashion for the same price, and i get a clamp that look like a vader clamp.