Strydur
10-28-2005, 02:05 PM
05 MR Anakin Conversion
This tutorial will show you how to convert your 2005 Master Replicas Anakin to a 3watt Luxeon using the conversion kit that I offer. The saber will retain all sound functions and use the original switch. You must make sure your hilt is the same design as the one shown in this tutorial. I make no guarantees that the wiring etc that I say to use in this tutorial will be the same in all models. You will need to have basic soldering and mechanical skills to do the conversion. You can reuse the stock MR blade by putting some clear or reflective tape around the base to make it a tad bit bigger. When finished you will have one very strong saber as everything between your hands and the PolyC blade will be metal to metal with no weak plastic.
Parts List
MR Anakin Lightsaber
Conversion Kit (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MRHasbro-FX-Anakin-conversion-kit-P248.aspx)
8.7 Degree Collimator Lens (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Collimator-Lens-87-deg-viewing-angle-P537.aspx)
Lens Holder (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/CreeRebel-Lens-Holder-P999.aspx)
Cree Star LED (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Cree-XP-E2-C136.aspx)
Thermal Tape (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Star-thermal-tape-pad-P483.aspx)
Optional but recommended
Complete 1" Blade to replace factory one (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Complete-Blades-C13.aspx)
Stock photos of the saber
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_01.jpg
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_02.jpg
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_03.jpg
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_04.jpg
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_05.jpg
Pry off gold button carefully using a small screwdriver or similar item. Then remove phillips head screw to remove chrome base.
Do the same for the other button.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_06.jpg
Pry off by pushing small screwdriver in from ends.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_07.jpg
Remove phillips head screws.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_08.jpg
Take off the control box and remove the two small screws holding the switch in.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_09.jpg
Push the switch into the hilt, and set the control box aside.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_10.jpg
Slide the electronics out of the hilt.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_11.jpg
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_12.jpg
The two pins on the left get punched out with a hammer and punch, and the pin on the right (one on reverse side as well) gets pried out.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_13.jpg
Push the blade out.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_14.jpg
Push in the little pin, using a hammer and punch.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_15.jpg
Pull out the LED strip and disassemble the housing.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_16.jpg
Cut the wires off close to the LED strip.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_17.jpg
Solder your leads onto the LED. A P4 is shown, but a 3W will work as well. Now is when you put the thermal tape on (not shown). It sticks between the LED and heatsink.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_18.jpg
Blue wire on shock sensor connects to Positive terminal on LED
Purple wire from connector connects to Positive terminal on LED
Gray wire leave alone
Brown,Red,Orange,Yellow,Green, and Blue wire from connector connects to negative terminal of LED
Remember to slide the heatshrink tubing on before you solder!
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_19.jpg
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_20.jpg
Now is a good time to test the electronics to make sure everything works.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_21.jpg
Set the LED setup aside for a while. Find the metal blade holder, and the original blade holder. To make the new one fit right, you have to cut a space for it from the original one. Line up the blade retention screw hole on the new one with the second hole down from the top on the original, as shown here.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_22.jpg
Mark where you need to cut, and then cut the piece.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_23.jpg
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_24.jpg
Now take the LED and heatsink combo and attach the optics to it. Then screw that into the blade holder.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_25.jpg
Tape all the electronics together. The hole where the switch comes out should be 90 degrees to the left of where the blade retention screw goes.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_26.jpg
Now take the Anakin tube, that is totally empty. Drill out the hole for the blade retention screw with an 11/64" drill bit. After doing this, the thumbscrew should slide easily into the hole.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_27.jpg
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_28.jpg
Slide the electronics into the hilt and pull out the switch.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_29.jpg
Use one of the two machine screws included in the kit and screw on the chrome bezel. Put the little washer underneath it, in the recessed area.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_30.jpg
Do the same for the other bezel, but without the washer.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_31.jpg
Finish reassembly. Congratulations, you have converted your saber! Pictures shown use a thickwalled battle blade.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_32.jpg
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_33.jpg
This tutorial will show you how to convert your 2005 Master Replicas Anakin to a 3watt Luxeon using the conversion kit that I offer. The saber will retain all sound functions and use the original switch. You must make sure your hilt is the same design as the one shown in this tutorial. I make no guarantees that the wiring etc that I say to use in this tutorial will be the same in all models. You will need to have basic soldering and mechanical skills to do the conversion. You can reuse the stock MR blade by putting some clear or reflective tape around the base to make it a tad bit bigger. When finished you will have one very strong saber as everything between your hands and the PolyC blade will be metal to metal with no weak plastic.
Parts List
MR Anakin Lightsaber
Conversion Kit (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MRHasbro-FX-Anakin-conversion-kit-P248.aspx)
8.7 Degree Collimator Lens (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Collimator-Lens-87-deg-viewing-angle-P537.aspx)
Lens Holder (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/CreeRebel-Lens-Holder-P999.aspx)
Cree Star LED (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Cree-XP-E2-C136.aspx)
Thermal Tape (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Star-thermal-tape-pad-P483.aspx)
Optional but recommended
Complete 1" Blade to replace factory one (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Complete-Blades-C13.aspx)
Stock photos of the saber
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_01.jpg
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_02.jpg
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_03.jpg
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_04.jpg
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_05.jpg
Pry off gold button carefully using a small screwdriver or similar item. Then remove phillips head screw to remove chrome base.
Do the same for the other button.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_06.jpg
Pry off by pushing small screwdriver in from ends.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_07.jpg
Remove phillips head screws.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_08.jpg
Take off the control box and remove the two small screws holding the switch in.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_09.jpg
Push the switch into the hilt, and set the control box aside.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_10.jpg
Slide the electronics out of the hilt.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_11.jpg
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_12.jpg
The two pins on the left get punched out with a hammer and punch, and the pin on the right (one on reverse side as well) gets pried out.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_13.jpg
Push the blade out.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_14.jpg
Push in the little pin, using a hammer and punch.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_15.jpg
Pull out the LED strip and disassemble the housing.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_16.jpg
Cut the wires off close to the LED strip.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_17.jpg
Solder your leads onto the LED. A P4 is shown, but a 3W will work as well. Now is when you put the thermal tape on (not shown). It sticks between the LED and heatsink.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_18.jpg
Blue wire on shock sensor connects to Positive terminal on LED
Purple wire from connector connects to Positive terminal on LED
Gray wire leave alone
Brown,Red,Orange,Yellow,Green, and Blue wire from connector connects to negative terminal of LED
Remember to slide the heatshrink tubing on before you solder!
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_19.jpg
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_20.jpg
Now is a good time to test the electronics to make sure everything works.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_21.jpg
Set the LED setup aside for a while. Find the metal blade holder, and the original blade holder. To make the new one fit right, you have to cut a space for it from the original one. Line up the blade retention screw hole on the new one with the second hole down from the top on the original, as shown here.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_22.jpg
Mark where you need to cut, and then cut the piece.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_23.jpg
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_24.jpg
Now take the LED and heatsink combo and attach the optics to it. Then screw that into the blade holder.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_25.jpg
Tape all the electronics together. The hole where the switch comes out should be 90 degrees to the left of where the blade retention screw goes.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_26.jpg
Now take the Anakin tube, that is totally empty. Drill out the hole for the blade retention screw with an 11/64" drill bit. After doing this, the thumbscrew should slide easily into the hole.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_27.jpg
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_28.jpg
Slide the electronics into the hilt and pull out the switch.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_29.jpg
Use one of the two machine screws included in the kit and screw on the chrome bezel. Put the little washer underneath it, in the recessed area.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_30.jpg
Do the same for the other bezel, but without the washer.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_31.jpg
Finish reassembly. Congratulations, you have converted your saber! Pictures shown use a thickwalled battle blade.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_32.jpg
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/images/Anakin1/Anakin_33.jpg