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Maliki Skywalker
08-04-2007, 04:16 PM
Hey everybody, sorry if been asking to many questions recently, the reason being is that im getting ready to order my first MHS and wanted to know everything im going to need for the ultra sound, ill want to power a K2 with a rechargeable battery pack, what voltage will i need?

oh and has anyone got an Ultra sound yet? is it louder than the MR SB's?

Thanks :D

There we go :D

Novastar
08-04-2007, 04:40 PM
It depends on what PLI you'd be using.

If the one from TCSS wouldn't fit, there are other solutions. You should do some measurements to find out, or maybe someone who has a PLI from TCSS can tell you the dimensions.

Tim might be able to tell you (and possibly start including some basic dimensions to parts like these on the site).

xwingband
08-04-2007, 05:04 PM
Nope it won't fit... and yes this is in the wrong place. You didn't actually ask anything related to sound. :?:

Maliki Skywalker
08-05-2007, 04:33 AM
Nope it won't fit... and yes this is in the wrong place. You didn't actually ask anything related to sound. :?:

oops :oops: sorry about that xwing i do have some qestions about the ultra sound, ill edit my post

vortextwist
08-08-2007, 12:04 PM
I figured this was a good spot so I didn't have to create a new thread.

I just got mine today and was wandering. what would be the ramifications of setting the board to the lux v or k2 settings when using a lux III? Will I get magic smoke or will it work at all?

xwingband
08-08-2007, 12:40 PM
I don't think the driver sets both current and voltage... So the V setting will probably underdrive it at 700mA and the K2 setting will be a big overdrive.

vortextwist
08-08-2007, 12:51 PM
so you don't think it would hurt the board to run a lux3 royal blue at the k2 setting?

xwingband
08-08-2007, 12:54 PM
Nope, it'd hurt the LED if anything.

beggarsoutpost
08-09-2007, 01:25 PM
Does anyone have their board hooked up yet.....Whats the verdict?

vortextwist
08-09-2007, 01:31 PM
I did last night. seems pretty cool as I havn't got to into it yet, just test fitting. I tried using a latching switch and coldn't get into the menu (even though ultra said you could) maybe I wasn't doin it right. be carefull of the solder tabs, they are super close together. I havn't heard from ultra yet but one of mine came off somehow. so right now unless theres a fix, I have a useless board. :( :evil:

fawnheart2000
08-11-2007, 03:25 PM
I know ultra said to put the board near the emitter, but which end should be toward the emitter the soldered side or the non-soldered side?

So far the bad things I've found are:
1. Getting into the menu is a pain, I have to try several times to get it into the menu.
2. Getting the darned thing to turn off, Holding the button until the light goes off and then release it comes straight back on and if you hold on to it longer it comes straight back on, you must get it just right for it to turn off.
3. When spinning the saber it continuely makes the clash or blaster sound i'm not sure which and the swing sounds are interurpted and makes it sound crappy. I don't know if this is becuase how I installed it, or what but this definately is a major drawback and makes me like this board less than I like MR boards.
4. Pulse mode hurts mine and other peoples eyes.

Some good things are:
1. Once you get into the menu it is very easy to navigate.
2. Drives the Lux V, Lux III red, and K2 white greate
3.If you let it sit for a moment it shuts off(So far the most reliable way to get it to shut off).


I'm still experamenting with it and trying different things, (I'm not going to give up on it yet but so far I'm not as thrilled with it as I thought I would be). Hopefully I will get the problems working out through trial and error.

xwingband
08-11-2007, 06:53 PM
It depends on the saber which would be up or down. Like if I wanted to conceal the wires I'd put the solder points at the bottom so I could tuck them behind a "craddle".

Do you have it hard mounted to something? If it's just free floating that may be why you are getting the false detections. I'd recommend what Erv ddoes with a craddle. He details it here: http://www.plecterlabs.com/catalog/article_info.php?articles_id=19

The rest I guess you can't do much about. I LOVE the pulse, but on Erv's I keep it toned down. It IS a little freaky when it's turned up.

LAN-ED-TUL
08-11-2007, 08:18 PM
i ALWAYS make a cradle of some kind either from a PVC pice, or a trophy column. i hollow out the column bigger, sand down the outside til i get a snug fit, then cut grooves on the insides opposite each other, and slide the soundboard in the grooves, makes a great modular type setup, a touch of hotglue to keep it in place, or as of yet, i make mine snug so they wont slip out at all.

kinda like the board slips in on rails, those grooves i cut inside.

that usually leaves me with enough thickness left on the cradle edges to mount the motion and clash sensors to the edge of the cradle, in the right orientations, so they work correctly.

and being either wood or PVC theres no way it will short out on metal at all, its totally suspended inside the cradle. havent had a failure or short yet.


looked at ERV's pic showing his cradle. nice concept, BAD idea using metal tube against the board like that. thats a situation waitin to happen.

he should of used thin walled pvc pipe instead, would of did the exact same thing as the metal pipe, but being pvc there'd be no way it would short the board out on the pvc like it might using the metal pipe he used.

fawnheart2000
08-11-2007, 11:13 PM
Ok, I've done some more tinkering.

1. Getting into menu mode is still difficult, might be a timeing problem with me pushing the button, because I do get it into menu sometimes.
2. Getting it to shut off was solved by my girlfriend, wait until the blade is almost off and let go of button.
3. This is a little crazier, when I had my Lux III red in the board if it detects one clash and then goes into a loop of clashes. If I have a LuxV or K2 in it the cash only sounds at the end of a swing or periodically during a spin, still annoying during a spin.

Right now I have placed foam from a mattress on either side of the board to try to stablize it, but I'll check into making a PVC craddle to see if that helps. Thanks for the tips.

LAN-ED-TUL
08-11-2007, 11:36 PM
no matter what board you use, it has to be stationary inside the hilt. try the pvc or a trophy column from a trophy making place.

i had 2 of them i got, that were bigger outside diameter than a hilt, so i had to sand them down to fit. and they have a hole down the middle of them for the allthread they use to bolt them down, i have to ream those out so board fits. and cut the slots grooves inside it.

on pvc look for a fitting piece not the pipe. i know i have found some that with a light sanding on the outside will fit perfectly in a hilt.

then you just have to ream out the inside a bit, make your rail slots and slide the board in there.

if you get it too loose, a fit on the board inside it, just shoot some hotglue on the corners, and it will stay put.

goldsaberwarrior
08-12-2007, 12:46 AM
If you're like me and too cheap to pay much to hold the board and "guts" of the saber in place. Buy some cheap heat absorbing foam and stick in there. That's what I have planned.

vortextwist
08-12-2007, 08:23 AM
[quote="xwingband"]It depends on the saber which would be up or down. Like if I wanted to conceal the wires I'd put the solder points at the bottom so I could tuck them behind a "craddle".quote]

the solder points are all on the same end, so no matter which way you put it you still have to hide some wires.

on another not, got ahold of Alex and he's said to send the board back to him and he'll see what he can do with it.