luxeon K2 + MR board and Corbins board

[TheCheeker]

ok so here's what i'm trying to do. i'm going for a green k2 with corbin's board and a mr luke board i'll be getting from a friend. i'm having a hard time trying to figure out how to wire this together. i found this pic:

http://www.geocities.com/theronroxbon/wiring.jpg

this was in a topic about adding accent led's to their setup so i dont know how accurate this is to what i'm trying to do. i want my saber to function pretty much the same as a MR saber. i know there are ways to set it up where the clash sounds are rigged to a separate switch and things like that so i was curious how to go about this to have only one switch that took care of everything similar to the MR sabers.

also at the moment all i have is a 4AAA battery holder that i can use for this setup. is this going to cause any problems?

[xwingband]

Well assuming you mean the Luke ROTJ board it's not going to follow that diagram. That is setup for the 3-battery sabers, the Anakin, Obi, Vaders and presumably the new Luke ANH.

Some of the more basic things are easy to address. You can manualy trigger the clash effect with a momentary switch. So you can use it in conjuction with a sensor or all manual or all automatic with the sensor.

4AAA will do fine, but if you can fit it you'll get better runtimes with AA's.

[Hasid Lafre]

You will need a DPDT switch, I would go with a 4AA pack, rechargable setup is also a good idea imo.

Basicly you will need to wire the positive and negative wires togeather, then the switch wires on the seperate leads for the DPDT switch.

I would strongly advise that you find a second clash sensor. I asked corbin about using a switch for his board instead of a sensor he said it wouldent be a good idea as the mr board dosent like mixed signels.

[xwingband]

Yes, if I was at all confusing I meant that Corbin's and not the MR could use either a sensor, switch or both. Keeping them seperate is a needed for the 3-cells. The 6-cells have those off-board ones not tied to the output so you can probably share that sensor.

[Novastar]

Be careful of K2s and MRs if you're concerned about the "best" way to drive the K2.

the 1500ma K2s will be horribly under-driven, while the 700ma K2s will be pretty well-driven by the 3AA pack the MRs have.

[TheCheeker]

Well assuming you mean the Luke ROTJ board

yes sorry i forgot to specify. its going to be the ROTJ Luke. I wish i had the board with me so i could get a better feel for where things go but i wont be picking it up until tomorrow.


Some of the more basic things are easy to address. You can manualy trigger the clash effect with a momentary switch. So you can use it in conjuction with a sensor or all manual or all automatic with the sensor.

i would prefer to not have to mess with a switch to set off the clash. i'd rather go the route of a sensor so i don't have to manually trigger the effect. to do that do i still need the switch or do i just wire a clash sensor by itself (btw where do i get my hands on a second clash sensor)?


Basicly you will need to wire the positive and negative wires togeather, then the switch wires on the seperate leads for the DPDT switch.

i'm not sure what you're saying here. :oops: there's 6 leads on a DPDT switch right? so which positive and negative wires go together and then which switch wires go on which of the other leads? (sorry i'm more of a visual person... if you can draw me a picture or give me some sort of diagram that would be awesome)


Be careful of K2s and MRs if you're concerned about the "best" way to drive the K2.

the 1500ma K2s will be horribly under-driven, while the 700ma K2s will be pretty well-driven by the 3AA pack the MRs have.

ok i've already ordered a 1500ma K2. even though it's not the best way to drive this can i get away with keeping it this way? what do i sacrifice by not switching to the 700ma version?


The 6-cells have those off-board ones not tied to the output so you can probably share that sensor.

i want to make sure i understand this... so the ROTJ Luke is 6-cell correct? and i have the option of 1 sensor per board or sharing a sensor with the MR board for the clash effects? would doing this change any of the effects or will the 1 sensor take care of all the movement and clash effects on its own?

btw thank you everyone for helping me. i've been trying to learn as much as i can about wiring this stuff together and even though i've learned a lot i'm still very much a noob so i appreciate everyone's patience :D

[Hasid Lafre]

a dpdt switch lets you turn on both boards with one switch but keeps the cirsut seperate.

Yes there are 6 leeds but you just ahve to find out which 4 you need to use.

You send the 4 switch wires to the switch. splice both sets of power wires to the batterypack/power source/ whatever.

You will need a second clash sensor for corbins board, Use the led leads on corbins board for the lux led.

The origional wires that went to the led strip for the MR you dont need anymore. But you can use them to power a accent led. you just need to figure out what resistor you need.


To bad its not a nutshell.

As per your led question you will be fine with the 1500 version it will still be brighter if not as bright, but not less than a lux 3.

I wish I could draw upa pic but sadly Icant drap for poop.

[vortextwist]

can't spell either.Lol :shock:

[TheCheeker]

lol ok i just found out that it is NOT going to be the luke rotj it will be rots anakin. is that going to change anything?

[vortextwist]

no, not really. the clash sensor is just plugged into a diff spot.

[TheCheeker]

As per your led question you will be fine with the 1500 version it will still be brighter if not as bright, but not less than a lux 3.

would it be brighter if i went with the 700ma led or kept the 1500ma one and left it under driven?

[Hasid Lafre]

With tha ani board then follow the diagram that you posted.

Keep the 1500ma led the board will drive it quite well, the 700ma one will be overdriven, Me persionally I would rather have an underdriven led than an overdriven led.

[Novastar]

I'll have to disagree there, as I've tried both ways with the same FX board on one, and then both ways with another FX board to confirm.

Granted, as always--the brightness difference is negligible, and "over-driving" an LED is simply a misnomer unless it's ridiculous--like giving an LED that "wants" 700ma... 1500ma.

But giving an LED 100 more (or 100 less!) ma... won't do much of anything.

[TheCheeker]

well i finally got the mr board and wouldn't ya know it... after i tell everyone its a rotj luke and then an anakin rots it ends up being a vader esb.:?
the board looks the same as the one in that diagram but i wanna make sure that it is. also when i tore apart the vader hilt and got to the board i didn't see a clash sensor. the conversion tutorial says that the electronics may look different than the picture so i'm wondering if the clash sensor would be built into the board or if its in the blade. any clues?

[xwingband]

Clash sensor is in the plastic parts of the blade inside the hilt. You should have seen it unless you got the DIN plug version.

[TheCheeker]

all that was in the plastic housing was the board shown here:

http://www.geocities.com/theronroxbon/mrboard.jpg

heres a picture of the blade: if its in there then is there a way to get it out without destroying the blade?

http://www.geocities.com/theronroxbon/vaderblade.jpg

[Novastar]

Yes... push the pins out of the milky plastic inner tube.

The vibration sensor is *just* inside of the blade where the wires go, so it's not very far inside.

[Hasid Lafre]

Dont worry about the boards, all the sith MRs are the same board. and the ani looks surpizingly close to the sith ones too.

[TheCheeker]

Yes... push the pins out of the milky plastic inner tube.

The vibration sensor is *just* inside of the blade where the wires go, so it's not very far inside.

... if only it were that simple.... see that pin in the middle? its in there just underneath the plastic and slightly off-center meaning that it wont come out. :x that band-aid on my finger there in the picture is what happens when you try to get the pin out for an hour and get a crazy idea about widening the pinhole with a pocketknife lol

Does anyone have a suggestion on what to do here?

[Darth Morbius]

Get out the drill. :)

Drill at either side and pull the pin out with some long nose pliers.

That should make things a little easier. Just dont drill too deeply, only enough to get the pin out.

[Hasid Lafre]

My brother has never had a problem taking the pin out with a tiny screw driver.

[vortextwist]

i have also used a small nail and punched it through.

[TheCheeker]

yeah i finally got the pin out. :D I ended up taking a hammer and nail and going to town on it for a few minutes. I thought for sure i'd damage the blade and everything inside but once the pin fell inside everything just slid right out.

[Novastar]

Excellent.