Whats the best paint?

[Maliki Skywalker]

Hey everybody, what would be the best paint for paint MHS parts? and whats the best way to make it look professional? :?

Thanks :D

[Darth Tollo]

I use painter's tape and a couple of coats of Kylon.

[Firebird21]

The best way to add color to your saber is to Powder Coat it, but that's expensive and you can only do it to parts that can withstand 400*F temperatures.

The next best thing is up for dispute, but is typically Automotive grade paints, but that requires special equipment and professional know-how, or just have your local body shop do it, but then you might as well just get it Powder Coated.

Then there's Spray Paint. This isn't always the most durable way to paint, but it is the cheapest and easiest.

Ether way you go you'll want to read up on the preparation of the parts here (http://thecustomsa.web133.discountasp.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=563).

[Lord Maul]

and there's also anodizing, which technically isn't painting, but it is extremely durable, and is pretty much equal to powdercoating in all aspects.

[Jonitus]

For black parts, I have had outstanding luck with appliance epoxy paints. If you follow the directions closely and resist touching it for a week, the finish is as durable as I have ever seen paint.

[SilentBob501]

jonitus you may have answered my question, but i was wondering what the best method and products for painting a sinktube overlay would be? Im pretty sure I want the piece to be black. I dont want to go through the hassle of getting it powdercoated, 1. cuz i want to do it myself, and 2. because I dont really think powdercoat fits the look of this saber. Im pretty much a novice when it comes to types of paint so if anyone has painted a sinktube black, what have you found works/looks the best?

Jonitus- that appliance epoxy panit sounds interesting, but im not sure i could last a week without touching it. got some pics?

[Jonitus]

I think the appliance epoxy would work for you. Rough the surface up with 600-grit wet/dry sandpaper and clean it thoroughly. Paint according to directions and give it the waiting time it needs. It's dry to the touch in 24 hours, but a week gives it time to fully cure and become hard.

Look at these:

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b76/sixmilliondollarman/Joclad_Danva10013.jpg
The ribbed section of the MHS is painted with black appliance epoxy.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b76/sixmilliondollarman/Joclad_Danva10016.jpg
The rear section also was painted with black appliance epoxy, but done so over a textured coating to provide better grip.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b76/sixmilliondollarman/Joclad_Danva1007.jpg
An overall shot so you can see the differences in texture, but also see the glossiness of the paint.

This saber was a customer-ordered one. It's back with me now for a speaker upgrade, and the finish is just as shiny and nice as it was when I shipped it out...and the owner USES this saber.

[SilentBob501]

what did u use for texture under the appliance epoxy? Also what is the appliance epoxy called and where can I get it? Do you brush it on or is it a spray?

also, what did u use for the brass looking section of that saber?

thanks

[Jonitus]

I believe (don't have the can in front of me) it is a Rustoleum product, called "Appliance Paint" of something similar. It's a mostly white can with green accents an a picture of kitchen appliances on the front. It's a spray, and I think it is about $8 a can. I've used the same can of black for three sabers so far, so it does last. I buy it at Lowe's, so most any big hardware store should carry it. Not much color choice. White, almond or black. No 1970's avocado, unfortunately. No 1950's duck-egg blue either. :lol:

The textured finish under the booster section is "Fleck Stone" paint. I let it become "mostly" dry, then wiped the high spots off with a rag dipped in solvent. Once everything was good and dry, I painted it with the appliance paint.

The brass looking section is an adhesive mylar I bought in a 5"x7" sheet at the local hobby store in the RC car aisle. I cut it to size, applied it, rubbed it down, and coated it with a clear epoxy, similar to "rodbuilder epoxy" used to cover rod windings on fishing poles.

[SilentBob501]

cool, thanks for the info, Im gonna use that on my new saber. This is of course assuming that I wont screw up cutting my sinktube. (its my first time)

[Jonitus]

Just take your time. Don't try to cut straight through on your first pass. Don't try to get the cutter to make sharp corners. Better to take a series of parallel cuts and then grind them out.

A good exercise in patience this will be for you.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b76/sixmilliondollarman/Saber_StyleII_Sleeve_web.png
This whole sleeve was cut with a Dremel. It can be done.

[ArkaiHalon]

everytime i see that thing, my keyboard gets soaked in drool.
That thing is sweet.

[SilentBob501]

Heres an unrelated question, (but i dont feel like starting a new topic since we're on the subject already.) What are the best attachments to use for a dremel when cutting a sinktube?

[Jonitus]

I use heavy duty cut-off wheels and 80-grit sanding drums. All fine detail sanding is done with jeweler's files and emery boards.