Internal wiring/battery/speaker holder

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

I know I am asking for the world here, but has anyone come up with an object that would fit inside a mhs lightsaber that would deal with the mass of wires + battery (similar to the FX cylinder).

I have just managed to ruin one of Erv's boards, a switch and other wiring items (after I was forced to scrap the the rechargable battery pack and jack -- no room) :x - Twisting the MHS pieces together has ruined a week of work and a small fortune in parts. I had a standard section plus a 3 1/2" extension + pommel + emitter

I also have a MHS suggestion - it would be GREAT if there were pieces that instead of screwing together, would slip into place and be secured by one or more recessed screws or something. this way wiring won't get killed once someone (or me) finally manages to get everything to fit inside.

Thanks to all for your help.

[vortextwist]

i've wired up a couple and taken mine apart several times, never twisted wires up. Alot of it has to do with wireing it up and then sliding it all into an already together hilt.

[Novastar]

Are you certain you've killed Erv's board?

If so, how so?

[vortextwist]

I also thought tim was working on makeing a batt,speaker holder thingy.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

I think so, the spool with copper wire came loose from the board and now the LED doesn't work. :( It happened when I resoldered the LED wires back to the board, (the original wires were pulled out from twisting as well as the momentary wire controlling the sound effects) some solder connected + and - LED relays, I got it apart and re-wired the wires, it seems to work except for the LEDs. During the resoldering was when the copper spool came loose from the board and its base shifted a little. I am going to see if Erv can repair it.

I can't just slip eveything into the hilt (size/diameter issues and quick connectors)

I have a second crystal board but I am saving it for someone (who hopefully really knows what they are doing) who will build a saber for me. I couldn't even fit the second momentary switch into the hilt to get the sound effects that erv's board can do. :( I am not anxious to destroy more stuff. This has already cost me more than a custom saber would have cost me. This is becoming an expensive nightmare, and what little patience I had is just about gone.

Thanks for listening

[vortextwist]

other than maybe twisting then the oposite way a little before screwing them together, to releave the stress.

[Hasid Lafre]

Its best to put it togeather when nothings in it. like start by putting your switches in then slide everything down in it. .

Its also best to lay everything out and plan. plan how your gonna put it togeather. and pretwisting the wires is good. theres no way around it mos tthe time.

[Jedi-Loreen]

That little "copper spool" you mention sounds like a component called an "inductor" and has something to do with the current going to the LED, most likely. A very important part.

When I'm finishing up a saber, I always put the hilt parts together, leaving the pommel and blade holder off, then I slide everything into the hilt from the top, push the switch through the hole and put the nut on and put the blade holder and pommel on and it's done.

I've never done a hilt with accent LEDs, because I'm not interested in those.

I have a friend who had me put together a saber with the switch hole near the pommel end. This caused major twisting problems when he changed the batteries, till I installed a quick connect at the switch. Not he takes the pommel off and disconnects the switch and then it doesn't cause the twisting when he unscrews the 3" extention above that to get to the battery pack.