New 228Lm @ 1000 mAh 3.7vf star LED

[Dregan]

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.2394

Gawd, I wish they'd do these in colors...

But still. 228Lm, that's closing on twice a K2 a third less current!

I'm waiting on my order to come in.

[xwingband]

Yeah, if you're going for white that'd be nice, but I want COLORS!!!

I think neophyl did a Imperial Knight saber with the Seoul P4 which is the same die. Nice, but the lack of colors really kills it to me.

[Lord Maul]

but X, with that brightness, you could filter it and still be brighter than a 5 watter i bet

[xwingband]

Not necessarily... if you need a 50% filter (look at the number in the leefilter swatch book) to get a decent green that's theoretically 114 lumens next to 160 for a V. Or that a Rebel in the top bins is 145 at only 700mA.

Filters are never a replacement for the actual colors.

[tobu]

and about this (http://cgi.ebay.it/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=020&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=300125892470&rd=1&rd=1) :?:

240 lumen at 1000 mA (3W or 4W?) 8)

what do you think?

:shock:

I have bought 2 of them, I will try them as soon as possible.

[xwingband]

I already mentioned them above. The Seoul P4 and Cree XR-E are the same die. They've been making star Seoul's for a lot longer though.

[tobu]

I already mentioned them above. The Seoul P4 and Cree XR-E are the same die. They've been making star Seoul's for a lot longer though.

Sorry :oops:

Damn my poor english! :(

[neophyl]

Ive been using the seoul p4's for awhile now. They dont have a good green response though when using a filter compared to a K2 white led.

Blue filters look brighter on the p4 than on the K2 though and they are great for an actual white bladed sabre like the imperial knight.

Ive also got some cree's and they look the same brightness wise.

[Black Gas]

can someone try one of these (or better yet snap a pic) of one of these with a nice yellow or orange filter?

[Marsupial]

funny, I was looking at the same Q5 on DealExtreme no later then yesterday.

DealExtreme needs to start carrying color power leds...


If someone give it a try, please let us know!!

[Dregan]

The problem is that Seoul doesn't make colored LEDs - at least, not that powerful. They do have some blue/royal blue (for dental applications), but I've not heard back from DX yet about them carrying them.

The LED I ordered is going in a flashlight, but I'll order one or two more, I'm sure. I have a white blade K2 @ 140 lm saber that I want to update now.

[Dregan]

and about this (http://cgi.ebay.it/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=020&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=300125892470&rd=1&rd=1) :?:

240 lumen at 1000 mA (3W or 4W?) 8)

what do you think?

:shock:

I have bought 2 of them, I will try them as soon as possible.

The one I referenced above is a newer die - which achieves 228lm @ 700 mAh vs the 240 @ 1000. In other words, it's more efficient. I'm also thinking that it can take a full 1000 mAh, as can the rest of the Seoul's I've played with. With overdriving like that, you risk shortening the lifespan of the emitter, as well as general overall failure (burnout) - but I've seen the P4 binned LED's run 1000 mAh with little ill effect, and that's a lower-rated emitter.

[Hasid Lafre]

Yes but with a 100,000 hour life time you overdrive it 50% thats 50,000 hours. has anyone ever put 50,000 hours on an led?

[Novastar]

Ask someone that same question about SIX years from now... :)

[Dregan]

it's not the shortened life span that concerns me, it's the blink-blink-fizzle possibility...

[Hasid Lafre]

then thats like putting a 9V directly to an amber lux3. no resistor nothing just straight to it.

[Novastar]

Well, Corbin and I were talking about how going sans resistor IS possible... even with HIGH voltage.

The trick is knowing how much your batteries can spit out all at once. Corbin said he had a saber staff running off of 4AAA alks for one LED, and 4AAA for the other. That means 6v each LED... and yes, it was a red-O/Red Lux III setup, so those LEDs "want" 2.95v... with no resistors.

So why didn't the LEDs fry?

Think about it, and you'll understand why.

[xwingband]

Ooo... *raises hand* I know this one, lol. :lol:

Rather ingenious assuming the staff doesn't seperate or turn on eithr independently.

[Marsupial]

My cyan lux III did run with 4AA battery sans resistor for a while before I added it a sound board.

the secret is the capacity of the battery to supply the power...
measuring the current with a resistor setup in my meter, I never could pull 1 amp trough my luxIII, so I went on and tried without any resistors. It worked flawlessly*.
OK, I do have a killer heatsink, its the MPP socket/heatsink combo from GraflexShop and would be suitable for a lux5 or maybe more.

but the point is, most AA batteries (worst even the AAAs) can't supply very much more then 1 amp: my alcaline batteries couldn't supply it and would overheat if I try.
As it can't supply ennough current, the battery pack delivers a lower voltage. Every batteries will have different caracteristics on that, but its mainly like its "already" used and low in voltage.

The power will quickly reduce as the battery discharges. With a cyan LED, it will look green at some point.


* This being said, it worked on my luxIII cyan with 4 Sanyo Ni-MH AA rechargeable batteries... it will be different with different leds / batteries combos. I definately don't recomment anyone to try before doing any measurments. You can blow off your LED.

[Novastar]

Yup, Mars hit it on the head.

However, if you think about it--there isn't much reason NOT to use a resistor when they are so cheap, so small... and ESPECIALLY if you try to get at least *CLOSE* to the LED's fwd V and current "wants" wherever possible.

You really don't need to be giving a Lux III Red-O freakin' 7+ volts. Just give it 3 and be done with it! If you're so high on crack for wanting to give it 12v or something goofy and ridiculous, throw in a current regulating board (whether Erv's, Corbin's, or something as simple as a puck/buck driver, etc.) and be done with it THAT way! :)

As it is, the "extra" voltage just gets turned into current for the mostpart when driving with a board. So it doesn't really matter unless you hook up like 20v or something really Darwin Awardy like that. Weasels.

So--pay heed: if you're going "direct drive"... just give the LED "what it wants", and you should be fine. For extra safety--give it a resistor, or do all the measuring yourself to be certain that the batteries cannot "over give" to the LED and burninate it like bacon in a pan.

[djbordie]

perfect for mr mace conversions though

[Scrat]

Yeah, if you're going for white that'd be nice, but I want COLORS!!!

Ya, same for me. I'd like to have that gorgeous light output off my colored leds :>

[xwingband]

Yeah, I've used the Seoul P4 (240 lumens @ 1A), but colors are seriously neglected...

I'm loving the Rebels I'm using. I put a top binned GREEN Rebel on a blank PCB and that bugger is kicking my K2's butt.

The innovations in the Rebel will help though... they're great for 3/4" applications as is and I hear eventually a newer K2 will come out with the Rebel die making it all much easier on us.

[GFORCE13]

I hope this isn't too much of a Noob ? my White. K2 just recently died on my MHS stunt saber and I am using a 6V(AA setup) with a 1.5ohm/5W resistor, but I would really like to try one of these when they are availible but cannot figure it out on the CSS chart. Can anybody suggest the best way to get the maximum Lumens without overdriving it using my current setup? :?:

Also not to take away from Tim's business, I just did some searching and I don't know if anybody has dealt with this supplier but they have them in stock: https://www.kaidomain.com/WEBUI/ProductDetail.aspx?TranID=2663

[xwingband]

Power it as if it's a White III since the specs are so close. I'd just go for a buckpuck now as it's a good way to be sure you are maxing it.

[GFORCE13]

Thanks X-Wing, I am ordering one ASAP, I will post a picture as soon as it is put all together. 8)

[Dregan]

Kaidomain and DX both used to be part of another company that fizzled, hence the similar product line. Both are reputable vendors, I order from each on a regular basis.

Still prefer to buy here, tho'

:wink:

[GFORCE13]

Dregan thanks for the advice, I was really just pressed for time since this is my stunt hilt that I need for La Jedi Practice, luckily the last class was in the day time so it didn't matter but I needed to get this LED asap. :wink:

[Dregan]

Just an FYI, since you mentioned need it quick - they ship direct from China, so it can take anywhere form 3 days to up to like 2 weeks to get your stuff. It's not their fault at all, it just depends on how quick the China post system feels like running that day. I've visited China a few times on business travel and seen that kind of thing myself. If you need something FAST, LEDSupply or Stryder are your better bets, but you can't get the CREE's and Seouls here.

[GFORCE13]

Well 2 are coming and I have another quick question I am thinking of upgrading my other L.Saber which has a Corbin Driver now running a Lux K2 which I was told by Corbin will not let the K2 at full brightness since his board only puts out 1000ma. But since this LED is rated at 1000ma I am thinking of using it with this driver, has anybody ever tried this? :?:

[Dregan]

I haven't, but it *should* work, though.

[Novastar]

I would have to agree, G... if it's rated at 1000ma, it's right up the alley for Corbin's board.

Incidentally, Corbin's board *DOES* drive the LED a bit higher... but also lower at times--super quickly... which ends up being technically "brighter" to our eyes.

In other words, I think it vacillates in between something akin of 1200ma to 800ma--a PWM "average" wave of sorts. You'd have to ask Corbin for more (maybe he can post some info on his board @ TCSS someday???) but it is essentially what he told me the board did when I was arranging BOP I back in 2006.

"Over-driving" an LED by a few mA (like 100 or 200) won't cause it any harm near as I could imagine. Uh, over-driving it by DOUBLE... (like instead of 700ma, going with 1500ma)... uh, yeah that's not good. :)

[GFORCE13]

Thanks Novastar for the information, I have it hooked up and all I can say is DAMN THAT IS BRIGHT!!! I will be posting pictures shortly. :D

[Raederle]

I'm getting a cree Q5 as well. Just wondering exactly what drive circuit are you using for it. Corbin's or buck puck or resistor or ? how about the optics? Does Tim's optics fit and which version.

Anyone have any other ideas as to how to drive this emittor at 1A for cheap(beside resistor)?

[xwingband]

The Cree dome is much larger than any other... so i'm not sure if it will work with normal luxeon optics. The Seouls are 100% compatible though.

For driving it... at $15 if you are dead set on 1A I'd go for the puck. I have yet to see a really good option any cheaper than that.

[Raederle]

So I am getting the impression that it is a size (height or width?)of the emitter dome issue and not an incompatibility of directional light transmission issue. Is that right?

How about a reflector style collimator a la ultra instead of a luxeon lens?
How does luxeon collimators compare to the ultra's reflector? On this topic, does anyone knows where to get cheap reflector collimators to fit a cree Q5?

Geforce13: how are you collimating your Q5?

I was also thinking of the buck puck but it seems rather big and the input voltage rather high. 5v-32v. I like to run things off less batteries so they can all fit in a smaller hilt. And since I have mostly NimH AAs, 4 might not provide enough Voltage. Does the buck puck regulate voltage as well.

There aren't detailed specs on Tim's site for Voltage output for each Vin. I am worried it might just be a constant current regulator. Or is the Vout just customized for a LuxIII? Strange that the buck puck seems to be a voltage step down convertor. Is that more efficient?

Boost-buck circuits are probably less efficient but it sure is nice to run things off a single or 2 AAs.

Might have to switch to using 2 3.7V Li-ions rechargeables instead.

[GFORCE13]

R here is the setup I am currently using in my MHS Stunt Hilt to replace the White K2 that died, I am using a 6AA(oops supposed to be 4AA/6V) Battery Pack and running it through a 1.5Ohm 5Watt Resistor and which I just realized is overdriving it a bit, but after my next shipment will put in the 2.2Ohm5Watt Resistor. I am using the K2 Holder and 5Deg Lens which both fit fine and since this is a standard Hex setup I would guess that a Lux 3 Lens and Collimator would fit too, will let you as soon as they get here. Since it is so bright I also have plans to upgrade my other White K2 Hilt which uses Corbin's Driver board and I will keep you posted on what he says as soon as I hear back. In the meantime here are a couple of pictures all using a thick walled blade and double corbins film and a K2 Holder and 5Degree Lens:
Top K2 through Corbins Board/ Bottom Cree through K2 Resistor
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c237/G-FORCE13/CSS/DSC00508.jpg
K2/Corbins Board
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c237/G-FORCE13/CSS/K2.jpg
Cree/ K2 Resistor
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c237/G-FORCE13/CSS/Cree.jpg
Cree/ CSS Color Disc
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c237/G-FORCE13/CSS/DSC00509.jpg

[Raederle]

Looks like K2 and LuxIII optics do fit crees. Is that first pic with or without optics?

The cree looks like it has a much tighter beam than the K2. Nice.

Can't really decide if the K2 or the cree is brighter. You seem to be overdriving you leds even for 9v@2.2ohms

Ignoring batterypack resistance,
The cree is rated at 3.7v forward voltage which is less than the 3.85v of a K2 this means you need slightly more resistance than a K2 for 9v@3.9ohm=1.3A
even if you run the cree at 9v@3.9ohm you are outputting1.3A which is not good for a led rated at 1A or 3W.
But if it doesn't blow and the quality doesn't drop I think it's ok to overdrive it to get more brightness. The lifetime is pretty damn long anyway. But I don't think you really need 9AAs. It just increases runtime and the added battery resistance quite limits the current and efficiency.

I'd suggest rechargeable Li-ion packs at 2 x 3.7v=7.4v But you'd need a proper regulator for that as resistor driving would not be very effective.
They have less internal resistance as well and thus more efficient. Get protected ones though so they don't blow up on you while dueling!
They are so much smaller and pretty cheap on DX and help the environment.

CR123 packs from amondotech cost $1 per piece (Titanium brand) and they even match the batteries for you and wraps them together.
3xcr123@$3= smaller and maybe cheaper than 6AAs.

Alright enough of my battery obsession but I think Li-ion is the way to go for powering sabers

The Seoul Z-power p4 u-bin output is rated higher than the creeQ5 @1A
and just slightly lower @350A. Might make more sense to get the SSC which is cheaper and has the same die as a luxeon.
Comparisons of the Q5 and the Seoul anyone?

The filtered blade looks bright but not as green as one might like. So like the other thread with the SSC emitter. It seems green filters also gives poor results with the cree emitter. Lots of flare and looks more cyan than green but quite bright and I even spot a slight core effect in the pic. How does it compare to a Green K2/LuxIII?

How about trying it with a Blue filter and others. There seems to be good results there.

Anyway thanks for the pics. Very informative.

Looks like I gotta get my blade and optics soon.

[GFORCE13]

Sorry for the confusion I meant to type 6V (4AA) Battery Pack, damn typo and in the first picture I am running both the K2 Top Hilt and the Cree Bottom Hilt through a K2 Lens Holder and a 5Degree Lens and the picture doesn't due it justice but there is a huge difference in brightness between the Corbin Board Driven K2 and the Cree so out with the K2 and in goes my 2nd Cree I ordered.
------------------------------------------------
Update from Corbin Das he told me that his Driver will work great with the Cree and he recommends using a 4.8V Rechargeable Battery Pack to achieve the target Forward Voltage and Current.

[GFORCE13]

Okay another Cree update you can use the Lux 3 Holder it will fit after a slight sanding down, the dome completely clears and has plenty of room, but the square part underneath it is just a hair taller than the rest of the Hex Star will post pictures.