PDA

View Full Version : Odd switch location, can it work?



Jetsi
07-10-2007, 08:35 AM
Questions were raised in the gallery, and answered, and then deleted. So I figured we could talk about it here.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u49/jetsi/FirstSaberConcept.jpg

As you can see, the switch is in the same location as the emitter. I wanted to try this to keep the hilt clean for spins and dueling without tearing up my hands.

Here is my basic concept of how it will work. Over the MHS will be a sink tube piece, which I plan on cutting out a trough, notch if you will, for the wires to run from the switch to the v-groove extension piece. On top of that I plan on adding another piece of 1.5" sink pipe that will be cut from top to bottom, allowing me to flex it over the other piece of sink pipe. The notch on the outer sink pipe will be rotated 180 degrees from the other notch, protecting the wires and holding them in place. Having the entire assembly held in place by two (maybe more) screws, it would be easily removable for any work that would need to be done.

Without having the pieces in front of me, it is hard for me to determine if this is feasible. Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated.

xwingband
07-10-2007, 08:58 AM
Getting a switch that small will be the issue. If you need a momentary... sweet no problem. Latching would be another story though.

I think your idea of covering it is fine. PVC may be easier, but it's certainly a valid idea.

987654321a
07-10-2007, 12:19 PM
why not put the switch on the bottom of the hilt or even the pommel?

Nightwing
07-10-2007, 12:28 PM
why not put the switch on the bottom of the hilt or even the pommel?Or a thin slider switch that wouldn't protrude as much.

987654321a
07-10-2007, 12:33 PM
yea. or use the force. Sorry i just had to say that. :lol:

Jetsi
07-10-2007, 12:59 PM
yea. or use the force. Sorry i just had to say that. :lol:

If only it were that easy 8) .

Hasid Lafre
07-10-2007, 06:28 PM
I would go with a slider. THen all you have to do is make s small square notch in your hilt piece or have tim so a custom jobbie on it.

darthdan
07-10-2007, 09:21 PM
I do all of mine in the pommel. True, turning it on one handed is a little tricky, but you will never accidentally turn it off...

Corbin_Das
07-11-2007, 10:48 PM
Would you consider having a special housing machined that could contain a switch? If so, that might be the lowest profile you could go with. If you're going to be using a driver, you can often get them set up for use with a momentary switch. I know mine can be programmed that way when they're made. That would allow you to use a super thin momentary tact switch or something under a plunger of some sort.
I'm not sure how you'd attach the bexel to the saber without going into the saber's body. I suspect you could possibly have it glued, screwed or otherwise secured to the black band section. You might even be able to find the parts to make a plunger and bezel at a hardware store. Not sure though. I never tried that.


Corbin

Jetsi
07-13-2007, 05:03 PM
Yes, I would be interested in the option of a custom machined part as well.

I don't really think I can even progress on this any further until I have pieces in my hands, and can proceed with assembly to see how it will all work out.

And the momentary switch is what I am planning on using.

Corbin_Das
07-14-2007, 12:48 AM
A momentary will almost certainly be lower profile, but more prone to being turned off accidently. I assume you're going to have this hooked up to a driver then.

An interesting side note on my momentary driver..... If you use a latching switch with it, you have to double click a latching pushbutton to turn it on or off. Makes it hard to accidently do anything. But that setup isn't what we're discussing here, so I'll get back on topic.

For a momentary switch, I'd definitely recommend having some sort of way of recessing it, if you can. The trouble will be you can't cut into the saber much at all. So the bezel section will need to be raised a bit perhaps. Otherwise you'll likely be triggering the switch without meaning to.
The other option is to use two momentary switches and have them hooked up in series, so that you have to press BOTH of them at the same time to trigger the saber on or off. My clear saber is set up this way. Makes for a low profile switch, yet not easilly bumped on or off.

Just a thought.


Corbin

kinchar bamin
07-25-2007, 03:55 AM
sounds confusing... and difficult :shock:

Corbin_Das
07-25-2007, 01:47 PM
sounds confusing... and difficult :shock:


Not really.

You just use a latching switch in place of the momentary. 2 wires to connect, just like the momentary. It's just that in order to turn the saber on or off, you have to hit the button twice. That's all.


Corbin

kinchar bamin
07-28-2007, 03:00 AM
ah. I see, so since its that simple why didnt you explain it that way at first :? :?:

Corbin_Das
07-28-2007, 10:12 AM
I said:

"you have to double click a latching pushbutton to turn it on or off"

Double clicking means the same thing as pushing the button twice. I thought that would be clear. I'm sorry if my wording confused you. Thanks for bringing it to my attention though. If something I say ever isn't clear to you, be sure and ask for an explanation.

Corbin

kinchar bamin
07-28-2007, 11:51 AM
okee dokee, thanks 4 explainin it :wink: (we brits need everything explained clearly to understand anything, well , not so sure 'bout barmic but I do :P )