Recharge jack wiring help

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Hi everyone. My problem is that I wanted to do a rechargable hilt (and this is my first hilt). When I took the jack out of the hilt (Tim had put in in when I ordered it), I wired it up and everything worked ok. However when I soldered the wired to the jack and tried to reinstall it, I had a real bad time getting it back in and then my wiring didn't work any more :( . When i took the plug out a second time, the wires were twisted up (obviously and then one of the leads snapped off of the jack) All of my things were purchased here with the exception of Erv's crystal board.

My question is what is the best way to wire the recharge plug? inside or outside and if it is outside, how do I get the jack back into the saber?

Thanks for your help.

[goldsaberwarrior]

My personal opinion would be to put it inside the saber and drill a hole in the hilt so you can hook the hilt up to recharge. If you do it that way you will want to make sure it doesn't move except when you take apart the hilt to do something. That's how I would do it but that's just me. You may want to ask around and make a decision then.

[vortextwist]

when you go to tighten up the nut on the jack, make sure the whole thing doesn't spin on ya, I think that's why it got twisted.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Hi Vortextwist,

I had Tim make a hole for the jack in the hilt and it's threaded :? . This is why I had to twist it to get it in and out. When I received it, the jack was in there and Tim told me to unscrew it to get it out, which I could to solder wires to it.

Thanks to all for your help.

[neophyl]

In which case solder your wires to the jack leaving plenty of length. Hetashrink them to insulate then screw into the hole. The wires will turn freely as they will only be connected to the jack. Once its in then wire them up to the rest of the electronics.

You can also use extra flexible silicone insulated wire too to reduce any twisting problems.

[Lord Maul]

also, before you put the jack in, counter twist it the number of rotations it makes to screw in. that way, when you put it in, the wires will be straight

[vortextwist]

ahh, didn't know the hole was threaded.

[Novastar]

Another option going off of NeoPhyl's comments is to also add a "quick disconnect" to the wiring of your recharge port so that you access it easily if problems recur.

This can get tough if you're doubling it up as a general kill switch as well, but one thing is certain... wherever possible--quick disconnects REALLY make a saber easy to repair... and also fit in perfect "alignment" with the idea of the MHS.

You can use the ones Tim sells, or even something as simplistic as those snap-connectors that are most associated with 9v battery cells.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

I am patiently waiting for fresh jacks and disconnect wires to arrive and I will try some of your suggestions. I also have a my own theory that I will try.

Again Thanks to all for your help. :D I'll let you know how it turned out.

[kinchar bamin]

you STOLE my Avi pic!!!!omg!!! U die now... :evil:

[Jedi-Loreen]

you STOLE my Avi pic!!!!omg!!! U die now... :evil:

And where did you steal it from? Hmmm?

[Hasid Lafre]

OMG enought of the avy stealing crap.

[Novastar]

I'm just curious if forgetful jedi ever got his recharge port wired up.

Me, I just use stereo jacks--and despite what some have said, they seem to be just fine for both kill switches and recharge ports. You just need to use the right port and personally, I like to "cut" BOTH the + AND the - leads during the "kill". No need to leave one lead open and introduce little spikes to your board when the plug is... uh... plugging in.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Hi Everyone,

I was finally able to get the port wired. I had to re-drill the hole and remove the threads. It worked, but I ultimately never finished the saber because I had too many other problems (and toasting Erv's board didn't help) see:

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3123

I am going to have someone else build me a saber hilt.


Thanks to everyone.

[goldsaberwarrior]

Don't give up because you fry one board or mess up on one saber. If I told you how many hasbro sabers I've fried trying to repair them and mod them for friends it would blow your mind. If I'd given up when I fried my first saber I would never have found TCSS and learned to make sabers like I like. Altogether when it comes to frying parts or whole hasbro sabers fixing them I'm the king. Fortunately I'd like to think I've got better. I haven't fried one in ages. You just have to work with it. All in all I think I fried 5-6 sabers of my own costing me about $100-$120. I fried about 1-2 of my friends' sabers or parts costing them about $40-$60 dollars if they replaced them. They didn't have anything to lose so they let me try to repair them. Anyway I replaced all of my sabers, I think one person replaced one. The 1-2 is for each friend. Most of the sabers still work except for the 1 that was replaced. I'm sure many other people have messed up and/or completly fried a saber before and had to start over. Keep trying and you'll get it eventually. It took me awhile before I even decided to try these parts so keep working at it.

[Novastar]

It's a good point.

Every saber I've ever had/made... has also required MAINTENANCE. Switches get smashed, wires come loose, speakers freak out...

I'm starting to learn to... not attach any "emotion" to why or why not something worked. Only that it does or does not. Then I work to fix it. It can only be so much--there are only so many possibilities.

You may be able to replace the broken part yourself, with the direction/guidance of Erv. Maybe. The board is likely salvageable though--it's pretty hardy and intelligently designed.