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Harga Moroc
06-28-2007, 10:50 PM
Hi guys,
I have ordered one of the 'crystal focus saber core v2.5' from plecter. the question here is.. in the manual, in the luxeon parameters section, it says that the led current values are 0 - 70 and that a value of 35 is equivalent ot 750ma, as the luxeon v needs but 700ma, i cant seem to work out the value i should be looking at. The formula provided for calculation is n=0.15 x current (A) x 1024 / 3.3.
I must admit im not that great at math and i have little knowledge of electronics in the first place. Anyone know what the equivalent value is for a 700ma lux v?
Also on ERV's board im trying to decide which is a better switching arrangement, momentary or push on - push off... any comments guys?

Much thanks for all your help..

Harga Moroc

pockets
06-29-2007, 04:46 AM
using the given values and that formula. its either 32, or 33. the exact value given is 32.58. if you change your LED out in the future, substitute 1.024 in that equation and you should get the right answer.

Harga Moroc
06-29-2007, 12:08 PM
Again, thanks Pockets, i appreciate the information you continue to share. Im only new to building as i bought my first saber complete and though i am inexperienced, im sure, with you guys assistance, i can be a true Jedi and build my own saber..lol.. sounds good at least..lol
Again thanks...

Harga Moroc

erv
06-29-2007, 01:45 PM
good answer ! just replace the desired current in the above formula, but make sure current is expressed in A (700 mA => 0.7 A)

but I should have started by something else : thanks SO much, you're one of the guys that read my user's manual. Quite rare :lol: I owe you a few Force Crystals !

and about switches vs momentary... it's a question of taste... and room... I used to like switches. Novastar likes sliding switches. But I used a really flat, good looking and low profile momentary for my telum infensus saber. No big deal anymore about momentaries (with crystal focus) : version 2.5 now has an anti power off protection using the aux button (also momentary)...
Erv'

Hasid Lafre
06-29-2007, 04:56 PM
So its gonna work like ultras?

Cool then I can use the switch I really like, but its a momentary and dont like them cause I have to hold it thing, But the way ultra did makes me want to use it now.

An if you do the same thing then yippie!

xwingband
06-29-2007, 05:52 PM
No, I think it's closer to a safety switch that he means.

Steeljack
06-29-2007, 05:56 PM
But I used a really flat, good looking and low profile momentary for my telum infensus saber.

Ooooh. Where'd you find said good-looking momentaries? I've been scouring Digi-Key and Mouser's catalogs for something along those lines, and have yet to find anything that really sings to me.

xwingband
06-29-2007, 05:59 PM
I believe he used "tactile switches". Low profile momentary buggers... He milled a square in and thus they sat in really low.

Novastar
06-29-2007, 08:13 PM
So its gonna work like ultras?

Cool then I can use the switch I really like, but its a momentary and dont like them cause I have to hold it thing, But the way ultra did makes me want to use it now.

An if you do the same thing then yippie!I suggested this idea to Erv, and I'm super glad he used it! It's basically the option to do the following:

1. Saber on is with one main switch
2. Saber off is by flipping the main switch while ALSO triggering the secondary switch (blaster/lockup/force).

The saber can still be shut off the "normal" way if you so choose. The safety shutoff is just an option now. :)

Harga Moroc
06-29-2007, 09:07 PM
Thanks for all the information guys, its really appreciated... I am checking a few sites for switches at the moment and came across these.. any comments?

http://www.alpha-products.com/New_Conn/New_Item/new_item.html

http://www.altronics.com.au/index.asp?area=prod&grp=294

Harga Moroc

Novastar
06-29-2007, 09:49 PM
Whoa, that alpha products one is pretty SICK!!

The others are par for the course, and I even have that exact same anti-vandal switch in one of the first BOP sabers.

Low-profile is where it is at with switches, and that top one looks promising. Precious space saved... I hope. Good find!!! THANKS! :)

erv
06-29-2007, 11:07 PM
the little switch I've used are waterproof too, which is pretty cool. Their main (regular) use is the reset in a PDA for instance.

The power off protection is an option, correct. Individual of course per sound bank, since it's in the configuration file on the SD.
It works differently than in the ultra board cause I did like the idea of waiting 2 sec to turn it off and... it had to be compatible as well with switches (and not only momentaries).
So, saber on, you press the activation button, nothing happens. Keep it press then press the aux button, the blade goes off. To avoid that happening when the aux button is already pressed (during a lockup for instance), there is a software lock. You can power the blade off when you are in lockup, or doing a blaster.

this aux button is becoming really busy !! I'm soo glad you can control so many thing with a single additionnal button.

special thanks for novastar for suggesting to add the anti power off protection !
Erv'

Novastar
07-01-2007, 09:59 AM
No problem, Erv. You're the one who programmed it!

Do you think it will work with a latching slide switch for the on/off button and the "normal" momentary for the auxiliary/secondary button?

erv
07-01-2007, 10:25 AM
it works as well, not as good but it works. Let's say that if your sliding switch (or push button latching switch) is a bit sensitive, or if the spring is old and loose, making the electric contact unstable, it's very useful. For instance, if you have the finger touching a bit the switch, and the electric contact is lost for a ms, then the anti power off protection is usefull and works great.
But if by mistake you fully slide the switch or release the lock of the push button switch, then as soon as you'll touch the aux button, the saber will go off (logical). However, if you feel you've moved it during the duel, and you put it back in position without touching the aux. button, then you will avoid the saber going off !

Novastar
07-01-2007, 10:49 AM
That's perfect... that's exactly what I expected. GREAT! Thanks again...

Harga Moroc
07-09-2007, 07:42 AM
Thanks to ERV, Keeper of the Buttered Toast, i have just received my slice of buttered toast in the mail. Most excellent piece of kit, my compliments.

This may have been mentioned before somewhere and i probably havent got to the subject forum page concerning battery options as yet but I am exploring power supply options at the moment, now the buttered toast is here, and was wondering what the best recommendations from everyone was as to what voltage and what battery configuration would be best to drive the green Luveon V i intend to run from the Crystal Saber Core 2.5?

Thanks and regards
Harga Moroc

xwingband
07-09-2007, 08:16 AM
A 7.2V li-ion battery is the best option.

Ni-MH would require too many for the space. There good non-rechargeable options also, but they'd be rather expensive in the long run.

Novastar
07-09-2007, 10:58 AM
As usual, I agree with X to the Z...

Here is some info on a thread I posted regarding Li-Ions so that you can make the right decision for your purposes...

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2519

Jonitus
07-09-2007, 12:48 PM
With the way Erv's board regulates current, you may as well get a 7.4 Li-Ion pack. You can get some massive runtimes out of them.

I'm having a custom pack built around 14500 cells, so when completed it will be the same size as a 2x2 AA pack. It will be 7.4v and 1500mAh, which will make for a long runtime, but not take up much space.

Plus, Li-Ion are just a better battery technology, IMHO.

xwingband
07-09-2007, 02:54 PM
Yeah, I saw that one with the build for Joclad. They are indeed better, but not as much as you think...

Take that same 1500mAh pack a V would probably get 2 1/2 hours optimistically (@ 700mAh current to the LED). A K2 @ 1500mAh by the straight up math would give 1 hour, but the higher voltage and regulation might give you another 1/2 hour but nothing fantastic.

I tested a set of ER14505M's, non-rechargeable lithium primaries, and didn't get too much above the what is expected despite the loads of extra voltage. They were 2400mAh and by straight up math should give 2 hours 24 minutes for 1A... I got 2 hours and 45 minutes.

Jonitus
07-09-2007, 08:36 PM
I agree completely, but straight up math seldom applies in these situations. I have found that often, the runtime of a saber is not a simple function of battery pack capacity divided by current draw.

The Obi-Wan I built for my friend had a 1000mAh NiMh pack and a Lux III. By simple math, it should have had a little over an hour of runtime with the 900mAh consumed by the MR sound board. In fact, it's runtimes were near 30 minutes maximum.

Whatever the runtimes on this new saber...that's all there is. I don't have room for any more battery than I have crammed in there right now. It's gonna have to be 7.4v @ 1500mAh. That is, until the 14500 cells get bigger capacities.

Harga Moroc
07-09-2007, 08:44 PM
Many thanks guys, loads of info and though the learning curve is steep, i am keeping up i think. I have had a hunt around based on some of the suggestions offered and have come across a few battery types/sizes etc. Any thoughts??

http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2456

http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2314

http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2439

Jonitus
07-09-2007, 08:48 PM
The first two would be nice for a saber based around a 1.5" sinktube. They wouldn't fit inside the MHS parts.

xwingband
07-09-2007, 09:11 PM
None of those would work for a sinktube of any size. They all use 18650's... if you aren't aware those numbers are a nomenclature for the size. First two digits are diameters, 18mm. Third and fourth are a length, and the last digit is a shape designator (0 are cylinders).

4 18650's in a square would be crazy large. The last set is closer to what you need but I've gotten that exact one and the coating will not allow it to fit.

http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1199
That one may do... I haven't personally seen if they add anything in the middle that might effect thickness, but it MIGHT work.

http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2714
This will fit darn near anywhere if you can accomodate the length.

Jonitus, I hear what you are saying. The reason the MR run saber you made didn't work for 1 hour is more than likely a combo of the battery chemistry not holding voltage as well and the cut-off voltage of the MR board.

Like if you hit the 3.3V on Erv's it does funky stuff just like the MR. Erv's dims and garbles the noise...

erv
07-09-2007, 09:24 PM
I agree with the li-ion battery question : it's very good stuff ! My telum infensus uses a battery "stick" made of 2 inline li-ion cells (7.2v) of 2400 mAh and it has a huge autonomy !
However, I'm also using a lot a pack of 4 AA, nimh 2600 mAh. Makes a nice craddle in my chromed tube and it's available in France, while li-ion are not (yet) and it's expensive to import. Sound is a bit less loud with on 5.2V, but it make a great saber with about 2h30 autonomy with a green lux at 1A and 3h40 for a red, at 1A too.
Erv'

Novastar
07-10-2007, 03:13 AM
I'm not sure if we're too off-topic now, although I think the question has been answered.

Regarding the Li-Ion cells, I can safely say the following:

1. A pair of 18650s side by side (shotgun double barrel style???) will fit fine in a 1.5" sink tube of the correct kind. Both of the Flange sabers are set up that way.

2. I have been able to get 3.5 hours out of: 7.4v li-ion @ 1300ma K2 green w/ v1.2 CF & only a little bit more tweak past the default on Erv's config.txt file. I may have been able to get more runtime, but I got sick and tired of clashing the thing, swinging it and all. I didn't want to call it a "test" if I just turned it on and left it alone!

3. Li-ions vs. Lithium primaries is quite a different ballgame. Much like comparing Ni-Mh to Ni-Cad.

4. Li-Ions maintain their voltage throughout a usage cycle. This is *extremely* helpful for the nature of what we're all doing. However, most other battery types do NOT maintain voltage over a charge cycle.

5. Every Li-Ion battery is different, and it can be different from one charge to the next. As a general note, companies tell me Li-Ions are not "at their best" on the first few cycles. So who knows when a good time to find a "definitive" runtime answer is. I just run it real-time to see.

So again, a "double barrel shotgun" of 18650s will fit ok in a 1.5" sink tube--but you have to look closely at what I did on the Flange sabers to make it happen. It's not ideal for easy access to the SD card on Erv's sweet kit, but... who cares? So take the thing apart and re-program!

Or... I guess I need to convert the Flange sabers to v2.x!!!

Jonitus
07-10-2007, 06:46 AM
What you detailed there is exactly the reason I chose to go with Li-Ion for the newest saber I am building. It is going to be a K2 green (if Tim gets more in the next couple of weeks), and with 7.4v and 1500mAh, it ought to have some sweet runtimes.

Novastar
07-12-2007, 12:54 AM
It should indeed, Jon... although with the 2200 or 2400mah you can stack on a lot of things without sacrificing too much.

As it is, Corbin has been suggesting that I wire in a "rumble" vibration motor and possibly a power on indicator LED. Might be doable. Depends on how much room I have left in the Flange sabers!! heheh

P.S. he says your work is great... I don't doubt it... he LOVES that new saber he got from you... heheh

Corbin_Das
07-16-2007, 12:59 AM
Did someone say my name? :D

Yeah, I like the brass saber I picked up from Jonitus. I have a Plecter board being upgraded by Erv' to go in the thing when I get it back. I'm still debating about runes, a crystal chamber and MAYBE some weathering, maybe.

Hey Erv' did you ever get that package I sent you yet?



Corbin