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View Full Version : Dealing with stuck or difficult MHS threads



Corbin_Das
06-26-2007, 10:23 PM
Hi all

It has come to my attention that a few people have had issues with MHS threads either not screwing together well or not being able to unscrew them once together. I would like to take this opportunity to give some suggestions to keep this from happening and what to do if it DOES happen.
First off, before screwing the parts together, look at them and make sure they don't have any dirt, grime or particles on them. If they do, use an old toothbrush and clean them off. If you nicked the threads, that can often create a "sticky" spot that will hinder assembly. If you encounter this, CAREFULLY attempt to smooth out the nick with a small file. Utmost care should be taken if you are going to attempt this.
Once the threads are clean and nick free, I recommend applying a LIGHT coat of oil to the threads. WD-40 works OK too, just don't over-do it. I often spray the WD-40 onto a separate toothbrush and then use that to swirl around the threads before assembly. Don't use a Q-tip because if there are any rough spots at all, they tend to grab the cotton and pick up "lint", though this is a good way to check for nicks. Again, go lightly with the oil. Otherwise, you'll have a mess to clean up.

As for the pieces that are already stuck together, DO NOT FORCE THEM.

Don't use pliers and mar up the pieces. No vices. No hammers. try this first: Put a little cutting oil or WD-40 in the gap between the pieces. Let is set for a while. For really stubborn pieces, saturate the threads and let it sit overnight. Any attempt to force the pieces will likely cause more damage to the threads and make it even harder to unscrew.

Another method is to place the pieces in the freezer overnight. The cold causes the parts to shrink a little and might allow for a bit more "wiggle room". This is especially true if you hold the "female" section in your hand up near the threads, since the heat from your hand will allow that area to warm up a little and expand while keeping the inner male section cold and therefore smaller.

Once difficult threads are apart, follow the above directions to clean them up and look for nicks. Using the Q-tip, like I mentioned earlier is a good way to find nicks that you can't see as easilly.

If all this fails, please contact us.

Corbin

Hasid Lafre
06-27-2007, 08:14 AM
I can't think of anything else that would help.

:D

Amanita
06-29-2007, 09:17 AM
I had this problem with my double ended hilt connector- it would not come out for love or money. What I did was buy two of those cheap rubber jar openers. I would wrap one around the saber hilt and hold, then wrap the other end around the stuck piece and twist. Sure enough, it worked- the jar openers provided enough extra grip to untwist the pieces without slipping, and being made of soft rubber, they don't damage the saber parts at all.

For anyone looking, they can be found in the housewares section of any department store, and they look like a square of textured white rubber or silicon.

Steeljack
06-29-2007, 07:14 PM
I've a couple of suggestions to add to the list:
While general-purpose oil is a good start for keeping things from binding, there's a more task-specific option, known as "anti-seize compound". (I learned about it from a friend who's a serious bike nerd: you use it for attaching pedals and other components that need to be tightened using considerable torque, for safety, yet which you'd like the option of unscrewing someday.)

Googling for "anti-seize" should turn up a few options.

I've noticed that some MHS parts have smoother threads than others. A #7 LED blade holder that bound with an MHS sink tube suffered particularly rough threads.

Dremel makes "abrasive buffs (http://www.dremel.com/en-us/attachments-and-accessories/attachment-accessory-detail.htm?H=188569&G=66429&I=69883)" of varying grits, which can be used with both regular mandrels and the new EZ Lock system. I've found them terrific for gentle deburring of metals that doesn't bite too deeply. Making an orbit or two of the threads, with the Dremel's axis of rotation parallel to the long axis of the saber body, did wonders for smoothing out the thread edges without loosening up the overall fit.

(Tim is probably starting to hyperventilate just reading this. I didn't recommend it. I didn't even say it. And for heaven's sake, wear eye protection if you decide to try this.)

If all else fails, you can't get your parts unstuck, and you've resolved to seek catharsis in violence -- you ambitious Sith Apprentice, you -- head down to your local hardware store and grab a "strap wrench". Better yet, grab two. These will let you apply enough leverage to unstick most parts. Of course, they may do so by destroying their' threads completely, but hey. Buy the ticket, take the ride. Once down the dark path you turn...

Strydur
06-29-2007, 09:34 PM
Anti-seize was not mentioned because it is not as common as household or motor oil. Plus the stuff I have used when doing brakes etc can make a silvery mess pretty easily while vegetable oil or something clear wont. I am sure there are some non messy forms of anti-seize for sale though.

Please..DO NOT try and force things apart until AFTER letting some oil, wd40, etc.. soak into the threads.

goldsaberwarrior
07-28-2007, 08:39 PM
There's always the classic cherry bomb or m80 fire cracker to unstick something. :lol: :lol: :lol: LOL

GFORCE13
08-08-2007, 11:35 PM
Well I didn't want to take any chances so I used the copper antiseize from permatex, plus I cleaned the threads first with a small brass brush and so far no problems. 8)

Kamurah
10-14-2007, 08:38 AM
Just thought I would chime in here....

Had a similar problem: Emitter to Hilt....very crunchy / sticky. Would not even consistently screw down all the way....and would lock up.

Bought a tube of Permatex Anti-Seize from Ace Hardware. Applied a VERY small amount to threads via toothbrush.

Wiped away any excess.

No more problems. Works like it should.

A simple fix to a most vexing problem!

xwingband
10-14-2007, 10:52 AM
via toothbrush.

This! I always try that. Use a sacrificial toothbrush though... a greasy toothbrush wouldn't be good for them teeth. http://forumimages.somethingawful.com/images/smilies/emot-q.gif

Kamurah
10-14-2007, 06:20 PM
via toothbrush.

This! I always try that. Use a sacrificial toothbrush though... a greasy toothbrush wouldn't be good for them teeth. http://forumimages.somethingawful.com/images/smilies/emot-q.gif


Ain't it the tooth.....er....truth :D :D :D :lol:

Ambo
10-14-2007, 07:19 PM
doesn't normally taste very good either.....

GFORCE13
10-14-2007, 11:09 PM
Nope it doesn't but on the positive side your teeth would never get stuck or grind. :lol:

But Seriously these are the kind of brushes I like to use they are all purpose and at $.13 cents a piece how can you go wrong. :wink:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=41338

Ghostbat
10-20-2007, 12:09 PM
I'm dealing with a pile of scratch and dent parts so there are a lot of "interesting" thread issues.

If I were to run down and grab some tap/die sets does anyone know the thread info?

Olternatly I can just use the brute force "Oil em up and lighten and loosen em until they co-operate" which is not the ideal approach :)

vortextwist
10-20-2007, 01:09 PM
they do make a thread file that may help you. I have used one at work. works great.

Ghostbat
10-20-2007, 06:25 PM
they do make a thread file that may help you. I have used one at work. works great.

Yikes, just looked up thread files and somehow they look harder to deal with than just rethreading the thing :)

I'll read up more though.

vortextwist
10-20-2007, 06:42 PM
I think you think it's more then what it actually is. what I used was just a little thing that had the exact same thread per inch and pitch. and just used it to straighted out some threads. not real hard.

Edit: found what I was talking about.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00999045000P?vName=Tools&keyword=files

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00999044000P?vName=Tools&keyword=files

Rogwi Nehar
10-20-2007, 06:59 PM
Any tips or ideas for loose threads? Everytime I even lightly duel my blade holder comes loose from the ribbed section, and or the ribbed section comes loose from the center section.

vortextwist
10-20-2007, 07:01 PM
just gotta tighted them real good. I thought someone used some alum paste stuff, but I'm not sure. other then using some loctite. not the permenent kind.

LAN-ED-TUL
10-20-2007, 09:35 PM
i am going to use the blue locktite. its not permanent, but will hold and allow it to be broke loose when needed.

one other option i thought of is to use teflon tape like on pipe threads.

a couple wraps of that, on the threads would make it stay tighter, and might not loosen up until you want it to.

either way you choose, either should work.

i will try the tape first, then the blue loktite stuff.

ArkaiHalon
10-20-2007, 09:36 PM
I use the teflon tape. Works great.

Ghostbat
10-23-2007, 03:46 PM
I picked up a couple of thread files and through trial and error figured out the answer to the question I didn't know how to ask :)

The thread frequency/number/count/thingy seems to be 18 on the file. Not sure how that corresponds to metric/sae bolts/pipes/whatever but it appears to work. (you can see I am of the brute force school of hardware).

The male parts are slowly but surely beginning to fit without sticking. Thank you vortextwist for pointing me in the right direction.

Now onto the next question, is there a corresponding tool for female thread or a trick to using these inside the tube? The way the teeth are cut on these files they seem to be pretty much dedicated to the male side... I am looking at pipe tap sets, I suspect the 18 from the file corresponds to the 'NPT' rating on these, I guess the danger of just retapping these pieces is that they may or may not correspond to a standard plumbing interior diameter?

Yay tools!

(It is a wonder I have kept all my fingers)

vortextwist
10-23-2007, 06:47 PM
maybe take a male section and browse the tool store. if you can get the right one for that then would be easy to get for the female end.

luke s
11-12-2007, 01:15 PM
Anybody figure out the correct tap to make the female threads. I am working on a project and need to tap the female end to accept the MHS parts.

And I agree telon tape works great.

strengthofrage
11-14-2007, 05:27 PM
I got my first MHS parts from UPS today, they are quite beautiful. I checked them over and drooled just a little, then I decided to screw them together. The hilt looks great even without anything attached. Then I went to take it apart... and the pommel is stuck to the hilt tube. It is currently soaking in a coffee cup full of oil. I hope it comes undone.

Ghostbat
11-14-2007, 05:32 PM
I got my first MHS parts from UPS today, they are quite beautiful. I checked them over and drooled just a little, then I decided to screw them together. The hilt looks great even without anything attached. Then I went to take it apart... and the pommel is stuck to the hilt tube. It is currently soaking in a coffee cup full of oil. I hope it comes undone.

So far the best luck I have had is with the freezer method, so if the oil doesn't help try (after cleaning all the oil off :) sticking it in the freezer overnight.

strengthofrage
11-14-2007, 05:44 PM
Thanks Ghostbat, I just took it out of the oil, cleaned it off and then took your advice with the cold method. I wrapped my hand around the female end and ran the pommel under the cold tap water. It worked. Thanks for the tips, I am once again a happy man.

P.S. I don't think I can ever use sink tube again, MHS rules.

strengthofrage
12-08-2007, 07:40 PM
I am once again a very upset man...

I have been working on this for about a month. My shroud is complete, I wet sanded the hilt, I used the dremel to polish it and used some Mothers aluminum polish I got tonight. It looked perfect. I washed it with dish soap to get the junk off and I cleaned the threads. I twisted the blade holder onto the ribbed section and.... stuck. It is now sitting in a cup of oil. I am a very unhappy man.

strengthofrage
12-09-2007, 10:43 AM
All is well. Penetrating oil = salvation.

Darth Morbius
12-24-2007, 08:19 AM
I have two suggestions:

1. strenghtofrage, please use the edit button... I realize that the posts are a couple of days apart, but you've got some serious triple postage going on there.

2. Adding to the information; I have found that a nice light sewing machine oil, or a silicone based lubricant works nicely to keep your threads happy.

vortextwist
12-24-2007, 08:22 AM
I wander if it has to do with something the machine shop is doing? The first mhs me and my bought, no probs with threads. Has a little issue with some new parts but nothing extream.

sekrogue1985
01-07-2008, 10:15 AM
lube it not with lube of metal grease. joke not intended

Blazemann
03-27-2008, 08:00 PM
And if all else fails, a Dremel tool will suffice! (Just Kidding)

Thankyou, I was having this problem, and, even though it wasn't with MHS parts, it helped!

Darth Xusia
09-06-2008, 04:28 PM
I have an mps pommel style 3 v2 and hilt style 4 that will not come apart no matter what i do. I've assembled and disassembled them several times with no problems, but now they are stuck. I've tried penetrating oil, freezer overnight, I bought strap wrenches and tried everything again but nothing works. My electronics are inside so I can't soak it completely. I guess i could sacrifice just my speaker though. Any suggestions?

TimeRender
09-06-2008, 06:13 PM
I've had parts stuck together that no amount of oil or freezing could manage to loosen. What I've found most helpful is wrapping the pieces in a short length of self fusing silicone tape. The extra grip that it provides is usually enough to help me unscrew stuck parts. I also think it could make for an interesting grip material, but it's not really my taste.

xl97
09-06-2008, 07:10 PM
I had to send my MHS parts out before to get 'un-screwed'

from now on.. I thoroughly check my threads for junk/shavings..etc..etc this is usually what happens.. (for my stuff)

the threads are 'burrred' extremely and very 'crooked'... so be watchful.

Kal El Rah
09-06-2008, 09:17 PM
Here you can get strap wrenches, will do the job pretty well for unscrewing things:

http://search.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/web/search.do?keyword=strap+wrench&Submit=Go

Matt Thorn
12-21-2008, 10:08 PM
What kind of oil are people using to soak the parts in? I've got a choke style 2 stuck in a powder-coated hilt style 3, and WD-40 and two strap wrenches haven't helped, so I'd like to try the soak method...but obviously people aren't soaking things in a cup full of WD-40, are they...!? :confused:

Lord Maul
12-21-2008, 10:14 PM
People have done just that. WD-40 in a cup works nearly all the time, or so I've heard.

Another thing would be to try and put the parts in a freezer. The metal will shrink and the threads will move away from each other.

Matt Thorn
12-21-2008, 10:33 PM
People have done just that. WD-40 in a cup works nearly all the time, or so I've heard.

Another thing would be to try and put the parts in a freezer. The metal will shrink and the threads will move away from each other.

Wow. Call me stingy, but I'm not quite at the point where I want to empty most of a spray can of WD-40 into a cup. :shock: But I have applied a generous amount, and have just popped it in the freezer. Thanks, Lord Maul.

Obi-Dar Ke-Gnomie
12-21-2008, 11:12 PM
You can buy WD-40 by the bottle. Check auto supply stores. Any light weight penetrating oil will do the same thing though. Just let it soak a while.

Matt Thorn
12-21-2008, 11:20 PM
You can buy WD-40 by the bottle. Check auto supply stores. Any light weight penetrating oil will do the same thing though. Just let it soak a while.

I live in Japan and haven't found WD-40, so I'm using an equivalent brand. I'll see if I can find it in a bottle. Thanks.

jedimastergarcia87
03-06-2010, 05:58 PM
Yeah, my BH won't screw onto my choke now, after I got everything re-wired up, (when I had to order a new lens holder), we had to take some stuff off the board to re-do it all, now the BH won't screw on for some reason. I think the LED might be out of place though from the center. Plus I think the threads did get messed up. I'll have to see about fixing them. First get the LED back into the center of the heatsink then fix the threads.

Crystal Chambers
03-08-2010, 07:12 AM
Old thread...

The nylon screws should hold it centered on the heatsink but the lens and holder sometime have some wiggle room. When this is an issue I connect the lens and holder, insert it in the blade holder facing blade end down, lower the heatsink and LED into the bottom of the lens holder so it aligns properly and then screw the saber down to the blade holder.

Since we're necroposting I should also add I had two MHS pieces seized that were powdercoated and I gave up till one day they just came apart while twisting other sections. Probably got loosened by dueling.

Capeson
07-19-2010, 12:08 PM
Awsome thread. Every one should read this.

I used oil and the freezer trick. Worked like a charm.

jin starkiller
07-19-2010, 12:43 PM
WD-40 and freezer does work
also for loose threads i use teflon tape..:)

Crystal Chambers
07-19-2010, 05:39 PM
I tried everything and the only thing that worked was dueling. Oh yeah I already mentioned that..oops

dj2rbo
07-19-2010, 08:42 PM
I just buy new parts. By the time I realize its stuck I destroy it beyond repair.

Jedi_Knight_Zekk
08-19-2010, 05:25 PM
Thanks for this little help session Corbin Das! It really makes a difference for a neophyte first-time saber builder like me to have so many people like you guys here on TCSS to help me through this exciting, nerve racking, and awesome experience! Thanks!

Matt Thorn
08-19-2010, 05:44 PM
Thanks for this little help session Corbin Das! It really makes a difference for a neophyte first-time saber builder like me to have so many people like you guys here on TCSS to help me through this exciting, nerve racking, and awesome experience! Thanks!
That's why the forum exists. ;)

Stuck threads are extremely fickle. I spent a week trying every single tip in this thread and then some, with no luck. I finally gave up and put the pieces aside for more than a year. Recently, I was rushing to make a saber from materials on hand, remembered the stuck pieces, and thought, "Well, it can't hurt to try." I got out two strap wrenches, and went at it with low expectations. The pieces came apart with no more resistance than you'd get from a stubborn jar lid. Go figure. :rolleyes:

Ulstergeki
01-02-2011, 07:35 PM
I got my choke stuck, not sure how, but i did finally get it unstuck, i had to use 3in1 oil and the freezer method, but now i think my threads are messed up on my hilt, is there a possibility to have them retapped?

astromech_kuhns
01-02-2011, 10:39 PM
if you are carefull enough, you can slowly screw them back togethor, and when it gets caught on a messed up part back up and bit and then go forward. do it just like tapping a brand new hole. just be very carefull.

Loachri MacTalabh
01-04-2011, 10:20 PM
I got the MHS choke style 1 short and MHS to 1.5" sink tube adapter stuck good. I tried WD-40 and freezing it. Didn't even budge. Thats OK though, since it's the adapter I just pushed the choke in to the edge of the sinktube. Did scar it a little, but thats OK too. I will scar other Parts and weather it. "When life gives you Bantha pee, Make Jawa Juice!"

astromech_kuhns
01-05-2011, 01:07 PM
"When life gives you Bantha pee, Make Jawa Juice!"

umm.......






What?

Loachri MacTalabh
01-05-2011, 01:17 PM
Have you heard the saying "If life gives you lemons, Make lemon-ade" That was just a play on Star Wars terminology.

nikole95
01-19-2011, 03:04 AM
Just thought I would chime in here....

Had a similar problem: Emitter to Hilt....very crunchy / sticky. Would not even consistently screw down all the way....and would lock up.

Bought a tube of Permatex Anti-Seize from Ace Hardware. Applied a VERY small amount to threads via toothbrush.

Wiped away any excess.

No more problems. Works like it should.

A simple fix to a most vexing problem!

This! I always try that. Use a sacrificial toothbrush though... a greasy toothbrush wouldn't be good for them teeth.

astromech_kuhns
01-19-2011, 10:51 PM
Have you heard the saying "If life gives you lemons, Make lemon-ade" That was just a play on Star Wars terminology.


i know.

that was weird though.

Grubok
09-23-2011, 09:09 PM
probably one of the best ways to clean up threads both Male and Female that I know of is; if you already have a dremel, using the nylon bristle brush (403) at about 7-12k rpm

Elodin
09-24-2011, 04:11 AM
This thread had just saved my life! :-D
I had a couple of Ribbed extensions stuck on my new saber and needed to seperate them to get the electronics in. No amount of WD40 helped, and i was about to try the freezer technique, untill i read this:

I had two MHS pieces seized that were powdercoated and I gave up till one day they just came apart while twisting other sections. Probably got loosened by dueling.

At which point i remembered an old hammer with a soft plastic head sat at the bottom of my tool box.... tap-tap, tap-tap, and 'Robert's your Mothers brother!'
Happy Man!

Data
03-13-2012, 01:04 PM
Has anyone tried a dry graphite lubricant in their hilts? I can see some advantages over the petroleum-based lubes, mainly for anti-seize purposes.

Ghosthunter
04-09-2012, 08:35 AM
Does anyone know what tread chaser to get to repair the treads mine are messed up and I'd like to clean them up