Jay Gon's RLSA EL saber conversion (CF V4)

[Jay-gon Jinn]

I posted it on F/X-Sabers' forums, and thought I'd share this with you guys, too!
Since I finished converting my son's RLSA to an F/X type saber, I had some time to start on another project I've been wanting to do; converting my blue bladed EL RLSA saber to a Luxeon with F/X!

This saber started out as a simple EL saber with no sound:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Blue%20EL%20Saber%20Pics/blue-el-saber-1.jpghttp://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Blue%20EL%20Saber%20Pics/blue-el-saber-2.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Blue%20EL%20Saber%20Pics/blue-el-saber-lit.jpg

It wasn't very bright, so I decided to convert it to a Luxeon saber with F/X sound! I took it apart and got started:
Here's the blade holder. This was the first thing I had to modify:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Blue%20EL%20Saber%20Pics/blue-el-saber-12.jpghttp://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Blue%20EL%20Saber%20Pics/blue-el-saber-13.jpg

I started out by putting it in the drill press and drilling a 7/8" hole for the optics to sit in. I then realized that there wouldn't be enough clearance for the screws on the TCSS heatsink I used to mount the led, so I went up to a 1" drill bit:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Blue%20EL%20Saber%20Conversion/blue-el-saber-led-conversion-2.jpg
I also drilled and tapped the emitter for #4-40 threads for the mounting screws that will hold the led mount:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Blue%20EL%20Saber%20Conversion/blue-el-saber-led-conversion-3.jpg

[Jay-gon Jinn]

The led mount/heatsink was a bit too big for the inside diameter of this hilt, so I took it to the bench grinder and ground it down till it fit nice and snug, and assembled it with the led:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Blue%20EL%20Saber%20Conversion/blue-el-saber-led-conversion-1.jpg
I also drilled and tapped it to match the holes in the emitter and put it together:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Blue%20EL%20Saber%20Conversion/blue-el-saber-led-conversion-3.jpg
I had to snip off the edges of the screws with my diagonal cutting pliers to make it fit into the hilt, but it works.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

My next step was converting to solid pommel over to a speaker pommel. I started with this:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Blue%20EL%20Saber%20Pics/blue-el-saber-10.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Blue%20EL%20Saber%20Pics/blue-el-saber-19.jpg
I laid out the hole pattern on the pommel face and marked the center of each hole with a punch:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Arons%20training%20saber%20sound%20mods/speaker_pommel_mod_1.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Arons%20training%20saber%20sound%20mods/speaker_pommel_mod_2.jpg
I put it in the drill press and started drilling! I first did a 3/16th hole in the center of the pommel to help align the larger drill bits.
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Arons%20training%20saber%20sound%20mods/speaker_pommel_mod_4.jpg
I flipped it over, then moved up to a 1/2", a 7/8" and finally, the 1" bit:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Arons%20training%20saber%20sound%20mods/speaker_pommel_mod_5.jpg

[Jay-gon Jinn]

After drilling it out, I flipped back over, and finished the hole pattern:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Arons%20training%20saber%20sound%20mods/speaker_pommel_mod_9.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Arons%20training%20saber%20sound%20mods/speaker_pommel_mod_10.jpg
I also did the pommel for my son's training saber at the same time, while everything was set-up. His turned out better than mine because I did it second and learned from some mistakes. I'm not sure what happened to my hole pattern, but it works, even though it looks kinda funny.....

[Jay-gon Jinn]

The next step was to change the switch. Not only was it goofy looking, but it wasn't in the best position on the saber:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Blue%20EL%20Saber%20Pics/blue-el-saber-6.jpg
I considered where it was to be the "bottom" of the hilt, so I drilled the hole more forward and moved it to the "top." I put the saber body in the drill press and drilled out a 3/8 inch hole so that I could use the stock switches found at the TCSS store. Everything was just about ready, so I decided to look for a sound board. I intend to eventually install Ultrasound, but an MR would do in the meantime. I picked up an Anakin F/X board from Vortextwist . (thanks again!)
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Blue%20EL%20Saber%20Conversion/blue-el-saber-led-conversion-4.jpg
The soundboard arrived, so it was time to get started wiring it up:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Blue%20EL%20Saber%20Conversion/blue-el-saber-led-conversion-5.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Blue%20EL%20Saber%20Conversion/blue-el-saber-led-conversion-6.jpg
I hot-glued the clash sensor to the board after shortening the wires a bit. I also hot-glued the switch, battery, and speaker wire to the board to prevent them pulling off during installation.
I was out of 4- AAA battery holders and so was my local Radio Shack, so I wired together two 2-AAA battery holders instead:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Blue%20EL%20Saber%20Conversion/blue-el-saber-led-conversion-7.jpg
I soldered everything up and tested it out:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Blue%20EL%20Saber%20Conversion/blue-el-saber-led-conversion-9.jpg

[Jay-gon Jinn]

It came out pretty nice!
I got everything installed and took a few pictures:

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Blue%20EL%20Saber%20Conversion/000_0021.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Blue%20EL%20Saber%20Conversion/000_0029.jpg
You can see the new location for the switch in those above pics. It's in the perfect position between my hands on the hilt now:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Blue%20EL%20Saber%20Conversion/000_0024.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Blue%20EL%20Saber%20Conversion/000_0023.jpg
This is a better pic of where the old switch was and the new location:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Blue%20EL%20Saber%20Conversion/000_0027.jpg
Here's the speaker pommel and the goofy looking hole pattern:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Blue%20EL%20Saber%20Conversion/000_0026.jpg

[Jay-gon Jinn]

And now the "money" shots!
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Blue%20EL%20Saber%20Conversion/000_0017.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Blue%20EL%20Saber%20Conversion/000_0016.jpg
The blade is, of course, a 3/4" thin-walled polyC tube with Corbin's blade diffuser and led is a Luxeon III blue.

Here's a short video demo of how this sounds:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Blue%20EL%20Saber%20Conversion/th_000_0020.jpg (http://s119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Blue%20EL%20Saber%20Conversion/?action=view&current=000_0020.flv)

[vortextwist]

I love how you put the clash sensor in that spot, I didn't even think of it. Nice man.

[Hasid Lafre]

Very cool man.

Sucks about the pommel thou. maybe down the road you can figure out what to do about eliminating that mistake.

[DACOTA]

Awsome job man very good moding.I love the Ani mr board more than any other,imo it has the best saber sound.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

The clash sensor fit right in there, too! I like this board, too, it's got a real metallic sound to it, with almost an echo in the hum....I should have attatched the rest of the neg. led wires, though...there's a slight delay between the activation sound and the led lighting up. I think the one neg. wire that was on it was the last one to come on in the sequence. I'll fix that when I take this board out and install the Ultra sound board.

Ithink I know what was wrong with the hole pattern, too. I had the laser guides off location for the drill bit I used to drill the holes. Stupid mistake.... :roll:

[Novastar]

I drill all my holes by hand with a Li-Ion powered drill (go figure). A laser guide would be nice, but it's not necessary for homemade sabers.

I think the hole pattern is just fine, Jay. Something to be said for sabers that do NOT look like they are perfectly machined (especially in an SW world)... plus you get satisfaction of doing nearly everything you can by "hand"... :)

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Very true, Nova, I hadn't thought about that! You can also see the "battle scar" on the pommel where a very large twine of aluminum gouged it while drilling. I should've taped it up before putting it in the vice. oh well, it just adds to the "used" look, I think.

[Barmic Rin]

I so wanted to get a G-style to convert!
Fantastic Job Jay!

[Jay-gon Jinn]

I also just got some more of Ultra's DIY blade film and made up another blade for it:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Blue%20EL%20Saber%20Conversion/101_0137.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Blue%20EL%20Saber%20Conversion/101_0141.jpg

[987654321a]

nice job man. it really looks like you like 3/4 inch blades. speaking of 3/4 inches, i just saw a yoda mr in person, it was a nice idea, but good for children. I mean if i could get one for free then thats cool but i wouldnt really waste my money on one, especially since i dont like it. I would much rather get an RLSA although they are out of business :(

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Yeah, it's too bad he went out of business, these sabers are really easy to work on, and the design is what I call "simplistic elegance." This was EL saber to start off, with no sound, and the best way to convert it to a luxeon, was to retain the 3/4" blade. I also like them because of the lighter weight, it's almost like they're not really there.

[987654321a]

lol yea. I like how you used your drill press to your advantage. sorta beats a lathe in some ways. I wish i had a drill press. Ill stick to MHS sabers until i get my own lathe, then ill make my own Killer sabers. litterally they will kill you lol.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

The next tool I buy for making sabers will be a mini-lathe. I think I may make some more of this "G" style saber if I do get one.

[JediTom]

Hi Jay,
Very nice job on the saber.

[Hasid Lafre]

What exactly makes it a "g style"

[Jedi-Loreen]

What exactly makes it a "g style"

I think maybe because it kinda looks like a Graflex?

[Barmic Rin]

I thught it was coz dey is from da 'hood!


(I'l leave this evil lack of grammar here for J-lo & Nightwing to trip over.....HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!)

[Jedi-Loreen]

:roll:

:p








:wink:

[Jay-gon Jinn]

I don't know why it's called a "G-Style," it's what they were called on the old RLSA Sabers site. I'd have to agree with J-Lo, that it may be because it looks like a Graflex.

Thanks, JediTom! Glad to see you made it here, too! For those who don't know, JediTom is a pal of mine from the SaberKnights website.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Okay, time to resurrect an old thread with some new information!

This saber has again gone to the workbench for an upgrade! No, it's not going to get an Ultrasound 2.0, although it did cross my mind! This is getting upgraded to a Crystal Focus Saber Core v4.1 from Plecter Labs!

I started by getting everything disassembled, and began planning:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Blue%20EL%20Saber%20Conversion/479b6833.jpg
I will be attempting to re-use the 4-AA battery holder that was installed when I upgraded the wiring on this one a while back. this saber was also for a time sporting an Ultrasound 1.0, but that board quit working properly, so I replaced it with the original Anakin ROTS board that I had installed during this thread. since it had a US 1.0 in it previously, it already had the premium speaker required, so, I started by mounting the speaker and a resonator to the battery holder:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Blue%20EL%20Saber%20Conversion/98c2ce3c.jpg
I also used a couple of pieces of double-sided foam mounting tape to mount the CF. Accessing the MicroSD card isn't the easiest thing with this set-up, but it is doable. I only plan on setting it up once, anyway.

Just for comparison's sake, I took a pic of the CF and US 2.0's together:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Blue%20EL%20Saber%20Conversion/e6239474.jpg
Waht a difference! Size-wise, they are about the same, with the CF being just a bit longer and a hair wider....

With the CF board mounted, I started on the wiring:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Blue%20EL%20Saber%20Conversion/d21a7cfd.jpg
I have something in mind for the recharge port that is a little different from how they have been done before....I have it mounted to a piece of 1 1/4" pvc that was a bit too big to fit in the saber....so I cut small section of it out so that it springs open....after I drill the hole, the recharge port should "snap" into place and be held by the force of the pvc pressing against the inside of the hilt, along with the plug being in the hole. The result will hopefully be a recessed recharge port without the need for a nut:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Blue%20EL%20Saber%20Conversion/c62835d3.jpg

More to come as work progresses.....

[sekrogue1985]

this is one heck of a cool looking saber jay

[Lord Maul]

Can you elaborate more on that recharge port setup? I'm intrigued :)

[Er Dan Gill]

Definitely want more info on the recharge port.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

what exactly do you want to know? Hopefully, it'll just snap into the hole I'll drill in the hilt and not require the retention nut.....

[Jay-gon Jinn]

So the next thing I decided to do with this one was to modify the original "clicky" switch to include a momentary....yes, I know it's not necessary with a CF but I might want to swap it out someday for an Ultrasound and then I'd have a switch all ready for it. So, I used my hobby knife to and a small flat screwdriver to pry it apart:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Blue%20EL%20Saber%20Conversion/d95424ec.jpg
Here's all the pices:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Blue%20EL%20Saber%20Conversion/d9414270.jpg
I won't be using the spring, so I'll set that aside....first thing to do is to hollow out the bottom of the swich housing:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Blue%20EL%20Saber%20Conversion/227c042c.jpg
Next, I took the white piece of the switch plunger assembly, and using my cutting pliers, snipped off the cap-end:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Blue%20EL%20Saber%20Conversion/eb8a2692.jpg
This will allow the metal piece to go all the way up into the plunger, leaving a bit more room for the tactile switch's button.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

The switch re-assembles like so:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Blue%20EL%20Saber%20Conversion/4d223156.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Blue%20EL%20Saber%20Conversion/eb5a5ce4.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Blue%20EL%20Saber%20Conversion/c01bc383.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Blue%20EL%20Saber%20Conversion/18bb91de.jpg
I checked the fit, and it needed a bit more material removed for the electrical contacts to clear, so I used the rotary tool and removed a bit more material, then soldered wires to the tactile:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Blue%20EL%20Saber%20Conversion/60f8d50a.jpg

[Jay-gon Jinn]

And then re-assembled the switch:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Blue%20EL%20Saber%20Conversion/a5386394.jpg
With that out of the way, I made up the mount for the Aux. button:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Blue%20EL%20Saber%20Conversion/a7cab9e6.jpg
I'll be using the same method for mounting this button as I did for the recharge port:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Blue%20EL%20Saber%20Conversion/0c18d554.jpg
I'll use some hot glue to hold it place:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Blue%20EL%20Saber%20Conversion/8538276a.jpg

[Jay-gon Jinn]

I then soldered up the negatives for the switches to the negative battery terminal on the recharge port:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Blue%20EL%20Saber%20Conversion/6b0a6d62.jpg
Wow....look at all the wires!
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Blue%20EL%20Saber%20Conversion/0db93948.jpg
I hope this works.....they should line up inside the hilt like so:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Blue%20EL%20Saber%20Conversion/fa31e4ee.jpg

[Jay-gon Jinn]

So, does it all fit? Well, yes, and no. Here's the electronics going in:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Blue%20EL%20Saber%20Conversion/2e8b276d.jpg
I slid the battery holder with the CF mounted on it into the saber, and then squeezed and compressed the pvc holders for the recharge port and the aux button together, and pushed them into the hilt:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Blue%20EL%20Saber%20Conversion/784049a2.jpg
Once the recharge port and the button post hit the holes, they should snap into place.....
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Blue%20EL%20Saber%20Conversion/f6d2e213.jpg
SUCCESS!!
(well, sort of....read on!)
This worked very well, I must say. The button clicked just fine, and the recharge port port was held securely in place...the only problem was, there was very little room to get into the hilt to install the main switch...after some finaggling around with a couple of screw drivers and a maglite so I could see what I was doing, I got it in place:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Blue%20EL%20Saber%20Conversion/46ac10f6.jpg

Here in this next pic, you might be able to make out how the pvc holders fit:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Blue%20EL%20Saber%20Conversion/c0af8e2b.jpg

Unfortunately, though, these holders are hard to remove...which I had to do, as I found out that there just wasn't enough room for the battery pack and the wires to compress into....and it caused a short on the recharge port. I caught it very quickly, so I don't think htere's anything to worry about as far as the CF is concerned, it was just the batteries that got hot. This has since been corrected, but now I'm going to replace the 4-AA battery holder with a 2-AA and use some Li-Ion Trustfires instead of the Tenergy NiMH batteries. Live and learn.....

I still need to get the configuration files on the MicroSD card set-up for this saber anyway, so I'll have plenty of time to ork on that while i wait for a new battery holder from TCSS.

[gundamaniac]

I like your setup very much and was in fact considering something similar for Obéissance. But I didn't go through with it (for a couple of reasons, including the difficulty of removal). So I'm just wondering...how did you go about removing the pvc'd recharge port and switch?

[Lord Maul]

I was wondering how you got the recharge port to stay on the PVC. Did you hot glue it, or did you put the nut on?

[Jay-gon Jinn]

So I'm just wondering...how did you go about removing the pvc'd recharge port and switch?
Very carefully with a screwdriver, by prying up on the edge of the pvc holding the rechargeport. The gaps in the pvc allow it to compress just enough to push the port back up through the hole, and then using another small screw driver, pushed it out into the hilt. When I removed the aux button, the glue came loose, and I just pushed the button out, and pulled out the pvc holder. I have it all re-glued, and ready to go back into the hilt now, but that will have to wait until I get the new 2-AA battery holder and batteries. I won't be ordereing those until Monday or Tuesday, though.


I was wondering how you got the recharge port to stay on the PVC. Did you hot glue it, or did you put the nut on?
Forced-fit and screwed in the hole in the pvc, Maul.

[Er Dan Gill]

Forced-fit and screwed in the hole in the pvc, Maul.

That was what I was wanting to know, specifically how you mounted the recharge port to the PVC.

[B5813]

Really appreciate the step-by-step pics. Gives me a new way of thinking about mounting switches which is always the part I dislike most.

[sekrogue1985]

now there is an idea i'm gonna have to try out with my next saber project

[Swordlord]

This is a great inspirational post for me. I have a couple of RLSA sabers (with no electronics) that I want to convert to LED sabers as my first projects. My grips are a little roomier inside than this one, but I will have some of the solid-pommel issues already addressed here.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

This is a great inspirational post for me. I have a couple of RLSA sabers (with no electronics) that I want to convert to LED sabers as my first projects. My grips are a little roomier inside than this one, but I will have some of the solid-pommel issues already addressed here.

I'm glad this might help you out! I would suggest for drilling out the solid pommels to start by drilling a smaller hole, then progressing up to a larger bit...I went straight for the 1" on one pommel I did, and it chattered pretty good! If I were to do it over again, I'd use a 1/2" first, then step up to the 1".

[Novastar]

I hear you on the mounting in "backwards" thing... :) I had to do that on the Flange III sabers so that the SD was in an optimal place too! Nothing wrong with that.

Looks great, Jay Gonn! I, for one, can appreciate how hard it normally is to mount both the board AND the cells onto one another... seeing as I'm usually looking for 1.25" OD and using 18650s, lol!!!

[Swordlord]

I'm actually thinking of replacing the solid pommel with a different already-hollow part (although I don't know what yet). I'm considering this option mainly because I no longer have access to milling machinery.

If I can get my digital camera working, I'll post a pic of the RLSA saber I'm considering altering, so I can get community input.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Update:
Here's what the final board and battery set-up look like:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Blue%20EL%20Saber%20Conversion/f275328b.jpg
This slides right out with very little effort...the board is mounted "backwards" so I could access the microSD card with out having the speaker in the way. I had to modify an MHS v2 speaker mount for this one....I used a sanding drum on my rotary tool to remove the step that normally catches on the ledge inside an MHS hilt...this saber has an internal diameter of just over 1.25" and the step wouldn't fit.

The aux button and the recharge port that I had iattached to two pieces of pvc to act as clips for them also fit in just fine and are fully functional:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Blue%20EL%20Saber%20Conversion/9bfa8b05.jpg



I just need to tweak the sensitivity on the motion sounds but otherwise, it all works as planned!

Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QKcE18kgWLU

[Sloda Foade]

Hi, sorry for adding to this older thread, but I just had an idea on making the removal of the PVC spring clips easier. If you were to drill a hole in each end of the PVC then you could use a pair of long nosed 90 degree circlip pliers to squeeze the ends of the PVC clip together which should allow for the easy removal from the hilt. I haven't tried it, but it should work.

Great job again, love your work.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Hi, sorry for adding to this older thread, but I just had an idea on making the removal of the PVC spring clips easier. If you were to drill a hole in each end of the PVC then you could use a pair of long nosed 90 degree circlip pliers to squeeze the ends of the PVC clip together which should allow for the easy removal from the hilt. I haven't tried it, but it should work.

Great job again, love your work.
That sounds like it would work, and I may try it out in the near future. I usually just use a screw driver to push the clip backwards and then the recharge port, or switch pops up out of the hole, and I can easily pull the c-clip out sideways.

I'm actually glad you brought up this topic again, since I recently went through this saber again and added a few things:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Blue%20EL%20Saber%20Conversion/100_6440.jpg
I modified it to include an illuminated AV switch with a blue dot!
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Blue%20EL%20Saber%20Conversion/100_6436.jpg
And an illuminated pommel:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/Blue%20EL%20Saber%20Conversion/100_6439.jpg
I have yet to reconfigure the led settings to have them on constantly, but it's actually kind of cool to see them blinking alternately like they do now. I should probably shoot a video of it again someday.

[Sloda Foade]

I love this saber, a very clean simple yet sophisticated look. Personally I hate all those switch boxes and bubble strip clamps on the original saber designs, they get in the way. Bling is good, but it has to be a practical design as well.

On a different topic, the AV switch LED is rated for 12V, has anyone ever stripped down one of these switches and changed the resistor which must be inside to run at the correct brightness for the applied voltage from the hilt batteries? They are a bit expensive to break if you get it wrong, but it seems that a straightening of the pins should let the switch break apart.

[Onli-Won Kanomi]

That is a rather nice little saber and even nicer now...amazing how 'little touches' can make a modest design really 'shine'. Well done!

[yirmeyahu_cynge]

This is beautiful Jay-gon. Great work!