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djbordie
06-08-2007, 10:23 AM
hey i found a dooku toy saber (the cheap extenda one with sound).
I want to smash that into my MPP Vader, I am running it with TCSS basic electronics package red..it looks great!

(I know im talking about a dooku sound with a vader hilt, but its better than no sound!)
now how do i wire that sound board from the toy in to that?
ive searched, but found nothing specific.

A wiring diagram would be amazing, or some basic directions...
i dont care about the led flashing or anything, it would be neat, but not essential...

cheers,

neophyl
06-08-2007, 12:56 PM
Well first you could look in the cutaway veiws and wiring forum. More specifically this thread http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=389

It contains wiring info for a hasbro sound unit. Theres loads of info about wiring up leds and various sound units. Just search through the appropriate forums. The sound forum would be another good place to look.

Novastar
06-08-2007, 12:57 PM
I'm sure someone will be able to find something out there, or show what they wired up, but you might want to:

1. Post a photo of the toy's "box" (if you have it)
2. Type out the "name" of the thing as it is listed online or in stores or whatever
3. Post a photo of the electronic guts (if you gutted it at this point)

That way, if no one out there has done it yet, people with know-how can literally observe the parts on the board, and get an idea of what it is doing and what it is not.

Simply enough, when you are wiring a Luxeon to any "lightsaber" product--changing the LED itself doesn't have much difference on the product... it will never "know"... the only thing that can be worrisome is how much current you're trying to feed it.

Most hasbro boards are naturally not "high-powered" and thus are not built to handle... say... 9v or whatever! Not even 6v, really.

So, it's possible the toy will range from "wanting" 3v to 4v, maybe even 5.

But... photos would help! :)

djbordie
06-08-2007, 05:16 PM
hey thanks alot for the info everyone, i guess i looked in every forum except cutouts....but still i dont see a dooku specific diag

djbordie
06-08-2007, 05:20 PM
hey, ill post some pics soon if anyones around, cheers

xwingband
06-08-2007, 09:08 PM
I've probably said it a dozen times...

If it has two seperate LED leads... use those.

If it has a single "lamp" wire use that for the positive then get the negative straight from the battery.

There's hardly a reason to make a "diagram" for every board when they all follow the same format.

djbordie
06-09-2007, 03:13 PM
true if you understand this ...some dont dude.
basically i can get the hasbro working but with 2 switches which is not cool...

there is a switch build right in to the hasbro board and I am not sure how to by pass it...

here are pics, bad quality though:


http://www.generalfindings.com/12.jpg


http://www.generalfindings.com/13.jpg

Lord Maul
06-09-2007, 03:25 PM
why would you need two switches?

all you do is take the "lamp" wires and solder them onto the led. then hook up batteries to the "battery" or "power" and you're good to go. If there isn't a label for the battery lines, just use the two that are left.

two wires are for speaker, two for shock sensor, so the last two must be for the battery


as for the switch, i think i know what you do...

take off the rubber thing on it. you will see two sets of copper trace forks. take a momentary pushbutton (like the ones sold here) and solder one lead to each set of forks.


and, please refrain from swearing :wink:

xwingband
06-09-2007, 07:15 PM
I'm telling you there is nothing to "understand", it's simple observation of what the board has.

djbordie
06-10-2007, 12:45 PM
yeap thats it, i didnt know how to get the push button switch on it cheers

djbordie
06-10-2007, 04:26 PM
well looks like i mashed this hasbro board....
i figured it all out without solder, then when i soldered the switch on the back of the hasbro, it died...i guess the solder hit too many of the metal connections? or what...anyone know how to clean off the solder? or did i short the board?

Lord Maul
06-10-2007, 06:02 PM
probably fried the board with too much heat :wink:

djbordie
06-11-2007, 07:29 AM
naw it seems to be ok, how do I remove solder?
its shorting it self out

Jedi-Loreen
06-11-2007, 12:06 PM
naw it seems to be ok, how do I remove solder?
its shorting it self out

I use solder wick. It's this thin braided group of thin wires that you put onto the place where you want to remove the solder, then you put your iron against the braid and when it get's hot enough to melt the solder, it flows, or "wicks" up into the braid. You remove both the wick and the iron at the same time, or you can damage your board if the solder starts to cool before you pull the wick away. Then you cut off the part with the solder in it and throw it away.

http://www.electronicsic.com/200l/chemwick5.jpg

You have to be careful, or you can also damage the board by applying too much heat.

There is also something called a solder sucker, or desoldering pump, but I never liked those, personally.

http://www.capetronics.com/Tools/vtd1.jpg

Here's a little Desoldering tutorial I just found:
http://www.aaroncake.net/electronics/desolder.htm

Marsupial
06-11-2007, 12:07 PM
I suggest you get someone with experience to remove solder from a board... because you might inflict more damage to the board trying to remove solder then when you soldered it...

trust me on that.

Novastar
06-11-2007, 12:34 PM
Mars is right...

Dj--you might want to "practice" on some other pieces of old or dead electronics first.

Try grabbing some old electronics board (say, a Pentium II PC board???) and go nuts soldering wires, de-soldering... trying complicated "moves" and all that. Bang. Training over. Now onto doing the ones that count.

You really don't want to mess up a board you like... granted a Hasbro is cheap...

Do that on a Plecter or something akin... and you'll feel like Jabba after Leia gets done with him... :shock:

djbordie
06-13-2007, 05:36 AM
haha cheers, well at least ultras board has leads coming off it?
i hope at least...lol...for my $79.00 sake

scott5050
06-13-2007, 06:22 AM
Do that on a Plecter or something akin... and you'll feel like Jabba after Leia gets done with him... :shock:

One of my buddies bridged the pos and neg power connections on his plecter board at the weeked.

He was trying to be brave about it.....

(visible damage (smoke) to one of the minor IC's - I'm sure Erv will sort it for him and it shouldn't cost too much)

xwingband
06-13-2007, 06:49 AM
Oh eww... I'd be totally pissed about that on anything more expensive than a Hasbro.

djbordie
06-13-2007, 11:42 AM
ya for sure, but ultras has leads right?

xwingband
06-13-2007, 02:15 PM
ya for sure, but ultras has leads right?

No one but Ultra himself would know that as they aren't even in his hands yet. They're getting manufactured now. When he gets them... it's up to him on whether he plans to add wire leads.

I don't think it's a big deal as long as the pads to solder to aren't acqward or otherwise piss-ant small.

djbordie
06-14-2007, 06:19 AM
true that would be ideal