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View Full Version : Wiring diagram for the 3WDriver and MR sound.



Hasid Lafre
06-03-2007, 09:11 PM
Sometime I plan on getting the driver and a K2 Cyan and a custom battery pack with recharge port.

I plan on using a dpdt rotory switch I seen in a previous topic and will have to get a second clash sensor.

But I was wondering if anyone had a schematic for hooking this up.

I want to use 2 accent leds, one led for the driver and one for the sound board.

Also Will the driver and sound board stacked fit into a ribbed extention?

Maybe its something that could be added to the Wiring and schematics section for future referance?

Thank you and good day

Edit: I want to keep the ramp on and off but is itpossable? I read differently from a previous topic.

Lord Maul
06-03-2007, 09:16 PM
corbin's board won't fit into the ribbed section.
it barely fits into the 7 inch sections. you need to sand it for that

Novastar
06-04-2007, 01:22 AM
Hasid... you *should* be able to keep the ramping, as you are technically throwing two entirely different circuits with the same switch.

The only real issue I see with doing the whole MR sound + Corbin driver is all the wiring insanity.

Also, as you probably know, you MUST have a second clash sensor, or you will fry something.

You have a few options wiring-wise, but here is my suggestion so that you keep it straight in your head:

1. Draw out your Corbin circuit as a graphic.
2. Draw out your MR circuit as a graphic.
3. Decide if you want them to run from SEPARATE battery packs... or the same one. If they run from separate battery packs, it will make things "feel" easier since it is basically wiring up two separate sabers.
4. Wire them to the DPDT switch, and you should be good.

You *might* even want to consider doing two separate circuits altogether so that you have an easy "sound only", "light only" or both mode.

The "greebly" visual LEDs you want can actually be hooked up to the MR board leads... since they are already supposed to be powering a bunch of 20ma rated LEDs. Granted, you wouldn't want to use them all, and you'd want at least 6 to 8 on one wire... :)

Hasid Lafre
06-04-2007, 06:09 AM
Yeah I got up to that but Iam just haveing problems tring to cram it all into a hilt thats style1 and a ribbed ext, the switch/recharge port and grebble leds will all be in a 1" or so space where the button hole is. but sence corbins driver wont fit into the ribbed EXT Iam in a bind.


I would love to use a single pack but I dont think thats gonna work now.

I would love to stick with nimh batteries for the longer runtime.

But if tim will start carrying li-ion bateries then I might consider it.

Iam gonna have to get a clash snsor from another mr board somehow cause I am gona need the space saverness of the tiny little bugger.

I might be abel to put the sound board and battery pack in the ribbed ext then the driver and pack in the 7" section and It should all fit.

But thats gonna be a wiing nightmare.

xwingband
06-04-2007, 07:22 AM
Well, depending on the FX board you could be able stack it under Corbin's. That what I'm doing on my next one. I'm in quite the different situation though I'm using an adapter to have a sinktube instead of the normal MHS hilt section. I'm also sick of wiring recharge ports so I'm going non-rechargeable for once.

For you... don't do two packs. Do a single 4.8V pack. Stack the FX sound on that. Then Corbin's could go under the switch area.

If you really want rechargeables then you are extremely limited. Li-ions are not going to work because of the voltage. You are left with Ni-MH.

If you go non-rechargeable then you have more options, but in the long run it's more expensive. You could buy bulk batteries to offset it though, that's what I do.

Hasid Lafre
06-04-2007, 08:30 AM
Ok so Nihm it is then.

Would there be enought space in the switch area with the board there if I got 2 accent leds on the side(90* from the switch).

Iam just gonna wire both acent leds to the mr board instead, so I can dazy chain them power and give them each a negative contact.

Like novastar said I wouldent need a resistor cause as it is it should power the leds but would I get a decent runtime?

If I needed a resistor which one would I use?

Will 4.8V be enought to power a K2 and the vader mr board and corbins board?

Iam gonna have to take my resinating chamber off my speaker so I can have as much space as possable.

Iam sure I can fit 2 accent leds a switch and a recharge port in a 1" or a tad bigger space in the switch area.

I found this.

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb168/Sidneyious/Lightsaber%20Pics/corbinspics7-FXsoundbasic.jpg

With what kinda switch? a dpdt?

Will this one work? I dont know what specs would be required to work with what we use them for.
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/RS-142/700425/2-POSITION_ROTARY_SWITCH,_DPDT_.html

Hasid Lafre
06-05-2007, 11:31 AM
annyone? bueler? bueler?

xwingband
06-05-2007, 11:44 AM
annyone? bueler? bueler?

DPDT in the pic.

You will not be able to get a accent LEDs and switch with the board in the same section. Accent LEDs usually go deep enough to warrant clearing a whole section just for them depth-wise.

Depending on the LED color I probably wouldn't worry too much about them. The Blue/Greens have a higher voltage and they're accent LEDs... overdriving them isn't too much of a big deal unless they are too bright for your tastes (If that's the case the ones that are already colored are usually much dimmer). If they don't burn out right away they'll be okay.

Hasid Lafre
06-05-2007, 12:33 PM
Thanks a bunch Xwing

Novastar
06-05-2007, 02:39 PM
Hasid... also... I know you may not want to do this, but you might consider making a cardboard mockup of the exact ID of your setup (and length of hilt).

Then, try fitting all your stuff in.

If it doesn't work... you're in big trouble--you have to make the hilt longer!

The other option is to start SIMPLE first, and THEN try adding things on. Maybe start WITHOUT the greebly LEDs... and think about it for later.

I planned *FOREVER* just to get my Plecter v1.2 setup correct for an 11" hilt. It's still a tight fit, and I do not have any room for a PLI or some kind of pretty LEDs.

Bummer... but... that's called physics and space! :)

Hasid Lafre
06-06-2007, 11:12 AM
well I really want the accent leds for this one. Its been in the plans for almost sence the start.

I for some 3MM led holders, then when I get the latching corbins board I can adjust things.

I was just gonna pu tthe pli tapted to the battery pack, but then I thought about dremmeling a slot in my ribbed section but I shot that idea down quick so no pli.

Iam thinking sence LordArgyll got basicly the same setup in his hilt I should be abel to also. I just ahve to actually maybe move the switch someplace else just not sure where.

Novastar
06-06-2007, 01:32 PM
Are you making a cardboard "test" hilt?

I would. :)

Hasid Lafre
06-07-2007, 12:32 AM
I cant do jack spit at the moment. work has me beat.

I build roof trusses(sp)all day long.

Hasid Lafre
06-09-2007, 02:00 PM
If I run the accent leds off the origional led leeds on the mr board do I have to resistor it? if so which resistors?

neophyl
06-09-2007, 03:53 PM
Yes you do need to resistor each accent led you use. With 4xAA assume a voltage of 5.5v as thats what it will be for most of the discharge cycle. Assume the MR transistors have roughly 0.5v drop so that lowers your voltage to 5v.

Now you know the voltage, you need to know how much current the accent leds want, that will be listed as part of their specs along with the accent leds forward voltage.
Once you know the voltage, led forward voltage and required current then its easy to work out the resistor needed. Theres loads of online resistor calculators where you can just plug the numbers in and it will tell you the answer, usually with the reistor colour code too. Google is your friend.

btw id run the leds at slightly less than the current max, so if they wanted 30ma for example Id give them 20ma. It wont make much difference in brightness. If they are high brightness types then you might want to give them even less current like 10ma otherwise they can be too bright.

Hasid Lafre
06-12-2007, 12:37 PM
Well there the leds in the store.

Iam gonna take a guess here. 150ohm 1/4W resistor?

Sence Iam gonna be running them off an mr board with a 4.8V rechargable pack, that resistor was the one mentioned for the 4.8V pack.

I figure I will be giving it a little more than what it needs but will be ok right?

neophyl
06-12-2007, 02:47 PM
Actually with the listed forward voltage of the led in the shop and the average drop for the mr board a 150ohm is perfect to supply the led with 20ma, exactly what it needs. 1/4w is more than enough as 1/8w is double the dissipation factor.

Hasid Lafre
06-13-2007, 01:50 AM
so good guess. rock on.

Look out sometime next weekend big order here I come.

Hasid Lafre
06-15-2007, 01:58 AM
Ok so I was just wondering about the switch

Now a dpdt switch has 4 contacts on it right? so I take the 4 switch wires and wire them to the 4 contacts?

Would the switch be labled as to what 2 contacts should be used for the 2 sets of wires?

Novastar
06-15-2007, 02:19 AM
Actually it will have six contacts.

It does not matter which set you choose, as long as you realize which side is "on" and which is "off".

If we use asterisks as your "contact pins"... bottom of the switch should look something like this:

* * *
* * *

Wire circuit 1 where the 1s are and circuit 2 where 2s are:

* 1 1
* 2 2

When the switch is closest to where both the wires are (open), the circuit should be "on".

When the switch is closest to where (in my lame-arse diagram) a wire and the "asterisk" is (which is unused)... your circuit will be "off".

A good way to think about it is that the switch is literally "cutting" the connection at one point--when the wires aren't touching. If you understand this PHYSICALLY, you'll understand how you need to wire it up. :)

Hasid Lafre
06-15-2007, 06:51 AM
Awsome, thanks nova.

One more question.

Will the mr board only powering a accent led with a resistor, Will it be fine if ran on 6V? would the driver take the most of the power?

Iam thinking about not going rechargable.

Novastar
06-15-2007, 01:39 PM
I don't think I understand the question very well...

All I can say is that 6v into an MR board (any way you slice it) would be pushing it to its limit. I would not give an MR 6v, but that is me. Maximum might be 5v... Joe (Corbin) did that for me on an FX setup for the original Flange saber. I'm glad he chose 5v... better safe than sorry.

Lord Maul
06-15-2007, 04:03 PM
you can put 6.5V into a MR board until the magic smoke goes up.

Hasid Lafre
06-15-2007, 08:55 PM
How can I bring the voltage down without a relay or anything tetnical.

Cause Iam seriouscly considering not going with rechargables.

Lord Maul
06-15-2007, 10:06 PM
a resistor would do the job fine i think

Novastar
06-16-2007, 12:24 AM
Or a voltage regulator.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062599&cp=&sr=1&origkw=voltage+regulator&kw=voltage+regulator&parentPage=search

You could get away without heatsinking it as long as you're not asking it to suck away >1w. Although I'm not 100% sure. Corbin had to heatsink the one in the original Flange v1 saber since we had 7.2v (effective 8v or so) to bring down to 5v. It was NOT very efficient... but hey, the FX board has LIMITS!! :)

Hasid Lafre
06-16-2007, 01:30 AM
I think a resistor would be alot easyer at the moment.

Which one?

Would a 1ohm 2 W work? Then do I just put it into the power line before it goes to the board?

To bad I couldent put them on a regular switch by wiring the switch wires togeather.

Oh well guess its still gonna be 3 places to make an order from.

neophyl
06-16-2007, 05:01 AM
Dont use a resistor. A resistor is for regulating current, any drop in voltage is as a result of you lowering the amount of current the board gets. Thats not what you want to do in this case.

The simplest way is to use a diode. Each diode will generally drop the voltage by 0.5-1.5v per diode. Diodes can come in a similar package style to a resistor so arent big at all. So just use 1 or 2 in series if needed
volts + ---[switch]---[diode]---[diode]---[MR board]---- ground (negative)

Thing to remember is that a diode only lets current flow through it one way just like a led (well an led is a Light Emmitting Diode). The voltage drop is just like an leds forward voltage drop too.

Using diodes has the bonus effect of stopping any potential damage done to the MR board from wiring the positive and negative in reverse.

Something like http://www.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=BYT01-400virtualkey51120000virtualkey511-BYT01-400 has a forward voltage of around 1v so you would only need to put one inline with the positive to drop your 6v to 5.

The MR mace (and other 6xaa sabre versions) have diodes on them to keep the sets of batteries electrically seperate which is why they arent quite as good for direct driving luxeons as say the Maul fx as you lose some voltage. In this case though you want that effect :)

Phil

Hasid Lafre
06-16-2007, 05:06 AM
So I could run 6V thru the luke mase boards cause they can take 6aa's

Well guess its back to the rechargable setup then.

Dont want to alter a battery pack again.

Thanks guys. Iam sure I will have alot of questions later on when I go to put these components togeather.

neophyl
06-16-2007, 08:24 AM
No. You are reading extra into it.

The mace and other MR units that use 6xaa DO NOT run at 9v like you would think. The battery holders are designed in such a way that its like having 2 lots of 3xaa.

Now if you normally wired 2 seperate battery packs in parallel you need to keep them electrically 'seperate' otherwise nasty things can happen. As a diode only lets current flow through one way as previously mentioned it you wire each 3xaa 'unit' together with a diode in line then current cant flow from one unit to the other, only from the units to the circuitry. Unoftunately this means that each unit of 3xaa has a voltage drop from the diode. This means that the Mace is actually only getting around 4v normally instead of the 4.5v that something like the maul gets.
Of course as you have 2 lots of AA's the run time is alot more.

Hasid Lafre
06-16-2007, 06:52 PM
Ah I get it now.

Very intresting.