Just finished my first saber

[scott5050]

http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/8993/saber01fr6.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
(I'll post more pictures when there's better light)

This is my first saber so any suggestions will be most welcome.

MHS Blade Holder #2
MHS Hilt #1
MHS M-M Connector
MHS F-F with slots
MHS Pommel #3
TCSS Covertec Button
Rothley 40mm handrail system (brushed nickel finish)
32mm o-rings
Luxeon Star 3 (Cyan)
5 degree lens (from Erv)
M3 Thumbscrew (from Erv)
On-Off-On Momentary toggle switch (from Maplins)
Recharge port (from Erv)
Plector Labs Crystal Focus Saber Core v2
"Instant" 4.8v 2100mAh NiMh battery pack (custom)
TCSS 34" Corbin blade

It was a bit of a fight to get everything in. The crystal focus board won't stack on the batteries and it won't fit through the M-M connector. I ended up having to ditch the BLI to make room.

The switch clicks back for on/off and forward for lock/blaster/force push. It's not ideal and it sticks out more than I'd like but having one switch for both functions was a big space-saver.

The speaker is mounted into the pommel facing forwards to create a sealed cavity behind it - the vent holes are hidden in the black painted strips on the lower grip. I tuned the holes with the hum and it was, possibly, too sucessful - the hum now drowns out the sound effects. I may need to re-mix the the sounds with the hum a little quiter.

The "Instant" NiMh cells are different from regular NiMh in that they hold their charge for long periods (30% loss over 12 months, allegedly). They aren't the highest capacity but I like the idea of charging my saber after I use it rather than before.

I had a 5 degree lens and a 10 degree lens to play with and I haven't quite decided which I prefer yet. The 5 degree definately makes the blade brighter but it also creates a really strong flare from the mirror which looks a bit wierd although it's only really visible to the wielder.

I think there's likely to be a K2 Cyan going in fairly soon.

[Barmic Rin]

Wow. I like it!

[vortextwist]

I second that, I like the hand rail stuff. very nice.

[scott5050]

Yeah, that was a good fine. It's 40/37mm steel so very strong and quite heavy. It comes in brushed nickel or polished chrome and there are various styles of end-cap available at well.

Those of us in the UK can get it at B&Q Warehouse (the big ones)

[Barmic Rin]

U a left hander Scotty? Beltclip seems set for a lefty......

[scott5050]

Nope - right-handed. That's the only place the beltclip can go where it's not going to be under my hand. Works fairly well worn on the left.

(although it is possible to snag the switch and turn it on when crouching - wouldn't want to do that with a real one!)

[Lord Maul]

that thing ROCKS!!!
i love the overlay with the new F/F section.

great job on your first saber 8)

[erv]

I like it very much ! the combined button for activation and lockup is a pretty smart idea !
How long it is ?
Erv'

[Ravage179]

verey nice!!!

[Hasid Lafre]

Intresting saber indeed

[scott5050]

It's 38cm from the tip of the emitter shroud to the end of the pommel.

[scott5050]

More photos

http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/4325/saber2sd9.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
Top & bottom shots

http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/3812/saber3od8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
Pommel detailing. The alu bit is from a hard drive and the brass thingy is from Erv.

http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/7717/saber4il2.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
This was going to be for the Plecter Labs BLI but there just wasn't room so now it's an extra speaker vent. (Handy for when I'm gripping the hilt tightly with both hands because that cuts off many of the other vents) This is a part from a playstation controller connector.

http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/2720/saber5bi7.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
Speaker vents. I'm quite pleased with these - you can only see them when the light catches the black paint. I mixed some bits of metal (which I had lots of at the time!) with the paint to help with the impression of age.

Also, you can see how the aluminium parts have been distressed. I gave all the alu MHS parts a good going over with wet&dry - 240, 400 & 600 grit. Then they got a a steel brush before I got the buffing wheel out. The result is little scratches here and there and polished spots.

[Hasid Lafre]

kool

[Kuil]

Great saber. :)

[Tenric Starkindler]

"..impressive, Most impressive."

[Jedi-Loreen]

I'm not a fan of toggle switches for sabers, but I like the rest of it.

[DACOTA]

Me either but its a sweet saber.

[chase]

that looks awesome for a first saber. i got mine all mhs parts and put it together and thought "awesome!". then i got the great idea of customizing it with a sink tube and making it shorter and blah blah blah and it looks pretty bad now. :D

[Jonitus]

Did you have to modify the MHS parts any to get them to slide into your brushed finish tubing, or was it an easy fit? I'd love an alternative to brass sink tailpieces or machining down MHS parts to fit inside other tube types.

[Corbin_Das]

I agree that the overtube really works well here. I'm trying to find a U.S. source for 37mm ID tubing (or 1.45" roughly) that has a thicker sidewall then the standard sinktubes we've been using. That would open up a ton of posibilities for shrouds, sleeves and such.

If anyone knows of a good local source, please let me know.


Corbin

[IcyDeath]

I too will be soon making my first Lightsaber and plan to do it with mostly MHS parts. I am not very good usually with this kind of thing so I want to make the hilt pretty streamlined and simple.

However, I really like the angle-cut overlay piece on the top of the emitter. Is it an MHS part and if so which one? I'm not familiar yet with all the names of the parts you listed. If it's not then where can I get one that would fit an MHS setup?

Thanks in advance.

[Jedi-Loreen]

His overlay is not an MHS part. On his list it's: "Rothley 40mm handrail system (brushed nickel finish)" The 2 pieces of his overlay, on the emitter end and over the hilt, he did himself (or possibly had it done, since it's steel, he doesn't say).

[goldsaberwarrior]

That's a cool saber scott. Don't really like the toggle switch but still a nice saber.

[IcyDeath]

His overlay is not an MHS part. On his list it's: "Rothley 40mm handrail system (brushed nickel finish)" The 2 pieces of his overlay, on the emitter end and over the hilt, he did himself (or possibly had it done, since it's steel, he doesn't say).

Ah, ok I looked that up and see it must have been cut because on Rothley's website it's a full brushed nickel pipe, thanks.

[scott5050]

Yep, cut them myself. Used a pipe cutter for the 90degree cuts to keep them square. The cut at the emitter was just done with a hacksaw then tidied up, the cut in the rear section was done with a diamond cutting wheel and dremel.

I too am not a huge fan of the toggle switch but space was REALLY tight and it took the place of two switches. My second saber has a much nicer button arrangement.

http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/5087/saber202ti7.jpg (http://imageshack.us)