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Jonitus
05-22-2007, 10:48 AM
I snagged a pair of battle-damaged Darth Mauls a couple of days ago. They are used, and the ends, where the caps or the coupler attach, have galled threads worse than I can repair or even live with. Just how far does this saber disassemble?

I ask, because it seems more than likely I will have to have some custom work done to machine out the ends, then have a new coupler made with vents for sound. The upside is that the new coupler will be aluminum whereas the old one is steel. Bonus for similar metals throughout!

Thoughts?

jjshumpert
05-22-2007, 10:59 AM
from what your saying pretty much your only option is to recut the threads. i dont have a mic on hand but i would guess that it shouldnt be a problem to mill out the old threads and cut new ones. the outer hilt body unfortunately is one continuous piece so simply replacing the end isnt an option. bummer bud!

you might also try filling the threads with all metal and retapping to the size of the stock pommel and connector... it would be much easier than trying to custom fab new parts :twisted:

Jonitus
05-22-2007, 11:08 AM
I was thinking of a simpler solution. I was thinking of just machining out the threads so the tube is smooth on the inside, then machining up a coupler, also smooth, and just bolting the damned thing together. There's certainly enough meat on the Mauls to make a connection rigid enough for dueling.

I don't know. I'm kind of miffed. Galled threads irk me. GRRRR...

Jon mad...go pout...

vortextwist
05-22-2007, 12:02 PM
I was thinking of a simpler solution. I was thinking of just machining out the threads so the tube is smooth on the inside, then machining up a coupler, also smooth, and just bolting the damned thing together. There's certainly enough meat on the Mauls to make a connection rigid enough for dueling.

I don't know. I'm kind of miffed. Galled threads irk me. GRRRR...

Jon mad...go pout... that's not a bad cure for it, just make sure you make the coupler long enough to push the batt pack in good n tight. On mine I actually got the emitter to unscrew. also there is a spot right whrere the big pin goes through that has threads also but I was unable to get it loose.

Jonitus
05-22-2007, 01:25 PM
In time (which I never have enough of), this staff will be completely disassembled, completely polished, and completely revamped with new electronics from Ultra and Tim. I mean were talking dual STEVE boards, dual LiIon battery packs, recharge ports integrated into the dual saber coupler...the works. This is not a weekend project by any stretch of the imagination.

First things first, however...must disassemble. Loverly parts...parts and boards and packs, oh my!

jjshumpert
05-22-2007, 01:35 PM
ive been meaning to ask, how did you go about unscrewing the emitter? i pulled back the o ring earlier and saw the threads but was unable to break them loose, maybe ill try putting it in the freezer...

vortextwist
05-22-2007, 02:08 PM
ive been meaning to ask, how did you go about unscrewing the emitter? i pulled back the o ring earlier and saw the threads but was unable to break them loose, maybe ill try putting it in the freezer...

not sure of that one, it just happened to pop loose, the other 2 I have I can't budge, maybe some bad mr glue. Hey jonitus, If you are goin to get rid of the switch housings , think of me first. 8)

jjshumpert
05-22-2007, 02:10 PM
it was the plastic switch extension that comes thru the hilt that you needed vt?

vortextwist
05-22-2007, 04:20 PM
Bassicly the whole turn switch essembly.

Jonitus
05-23-2007, 04:29 AM
I can't make any promises about the switch assemblies, but I will have a couple sound boards and battery packs for sale. Not gonna need them once I get through with this thing.

jjshumpert
05-23-2007, 05:33 AM
interesting... im shure you'll find someone that will take them off your hands, as mr drivers go im starting to prefer the sith units, using them with a red lux 3 results in a pretty nifty power down effect :twisted:

Novastar
05-23-2007, 04:48 PM
JJ is correct about the obvious visual "power down" if you wire it up on a Lux correctly. You must connect ALL negative leads though if you want that... :)

However... I will never get over that RETARDED "one clash" sound, along with the fact that the clash sound is SUPPOSED to be the power ON sound... but instead it is a "jedi" on sound. lol.

That clash starts to sound like white noise after 3 hits, lol.

I'm happy with my new soundfont on Erv's setup. People should LOVE it too.

P.S. The on/off sounds on my soundfont are SOLELY my voice (with modification)... :)

vortextwist
05-23-2007, 05:38 PM
also if you can ever get the mauls to unscrew, When I had my emitter off I screwed it into where the battery cap was and put the cap where the emitter was, looked pretty cool. If I can ever get another really cheap I may see about just switching them around and leaving them that way.

jjshumpert
05-23-2007, 06:10 PM
funny thing is though i only get that effect with sith drivers powering lux 3 red emitters... figure that one out! :twisted:

Novastar
05-23-2007, 06:42 PM
jj... as far as I know... the Vader/Maul boards are programmed to take longer in the power-down stage. This makes it a bit more apparent to your eyes.

Did you know that on ALL MR boards, you DO get a "ramping" effect both ways??? :) HOWEVER... few of them are visually possible to see.

Even the Vader/Maul boards have a slight power ON ramp... look closely! It's there. But you must REALLY really look for it.

The Luke/Mace/Ani boards do not APPEAR to have these simply because the ramp on/off is too quick.

That's my opinion--I could be wrong. But think about it. It's clear that the MR board powers each LED set individually. So, even when you hook up a Luxeon--it will get a portion of the power, then another portion, and so on.

Whether you can SEE it or not... depends on the timing. Too fast on the "light side" boards...

Besides, my guess is... the fwd voltage of the LED will indeed play a small part. A small one. Since it's usually 2.95 vs. 3.4 or 3.8 or whatever. Yippee.[/i]

Hasid Lafre
05-23-2007, 08:05 PM
I concur it is noticable Ya just have to look carefully.

vortextwist
05-23-2007, 08:13 PM
Ive noticed that on my red mace, it almost has a flicker effect on powerdown

jjshumpert
05-23-2007, 08:32 PM
exactly what i was saying vt, the sith ramp is slow enough that you can actually see the dimming of the lux which gives a retraction effect that is quite similar to joe's first driver, its even gives a nice power down apearance on stock mr tubes that i really dig...

Novastar
05-23-2007, 10:42 PM
Yeah, I still wonder why that wasn't done with the "good guy" sabers... or maybe it is simply a compilation of the fact that the LEDs were different, and the "on" and "off" sound speed.

Either way, who cares... Erv's board is what you need if you want sound + ramping, heheh

Hasid Lafre
05-24-2007, 01:22 AM
Yes but not everyone can foot for an ervs board. Maybe his soundless driver.

Novastar
05-24-2007, 11:26 AM
Pick up Ultra's non-programmable for half the cost. It's worth it. Especially if you're not building an ARMY of sabers, heheh.

DACOTA
05-27-2007, 02:56 PM
This may have been answered before and might be a dumb question,but what is the best way to get the pin out of the anodized red switch?

vortextwist
05-27-2007, 02:58 PM
I have used a center punch, or just a small nail and pliers.

Lord Maul
05-27-2007, 04:04 PM
use a really small nail punch.
worked for me

jjshumpert
05-27-2007, 05:29 PM
i took a micro screwdriver like what you would get in a cheap electrical tool kit and cut the screwdriver short essentially making a micro punch. you wont need the tool very long since the pin is inside of the knurled cover about a 16th of an inch

DACOTA
05-28-2007, 10:43 AM
Oh ok so I just push it in enough to take the cap off and I'm good to go?

Thanks all. :D

vortextwist
05-28-2007, 11:09 AM
yup