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Jonitus
05-21-2007, 01:43 PM
I will have to come back soon and edit this post, because my pic hosting is a bit wonky at the moment.

This saber has been many months in the making, and has seen many, many, many revisions from what was first pictured in my head. I had originally intended the saber to be of a Sith nature and red-bladed by nature. I had originally intended a full sound suite.

Neither of those came to be. This is a mute stunt saber. No sound. With the 2005 MR Vader sound board going haywire I had slotted for install in this saber and the subsequent demise of my Red Lux III, it was the calming voice of my better half that said "Jon, just relax...it is beautiful and does not need sound to be complete. Finish it. Get it off the workbench and this whole escapade is done."

She is right, of course. I'm miffed about the MR board dying. I wired it exactly like the tutorial here, but it got really hot, the sound died, then the magic smoke arrived. DEAD. Then I saw a bright flash and a pop...the LED was toast too. That's alright, because the 3W Cyan looks niiiiccceee. With the battery pack in this thing, it ought to have some looooonnngggg runtimes as a stunt saber.

Until I can get my pic hosting sorted out tonight, here are some images to hold you over:

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b76/sixmilliondollarman/Saber_StyleII_Assembly3_web.png
The saber is nearly 15" from tip to pommel. Comprised of MHS parts that have been slightly altered to serve my own purposes. The sleeve and rings were cut from raw brass tubing and as you see them here, were slowly and steadily polished. The emitter tips are as menacing as they seem and are quite sharp. I have a scar on my finger from where one of them laid it open due to my negligence.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b76/sixmilliondollarman/Saber_StyleII_Assembly1_web.png
Another pic to give you a more accurate sense of scale of this saber. The rings are secured to the main body via socket-had cap screws. They provide a surprisingly comfortable grip. When spinning the saber, the hand is best served on the ribbed section, but for fighting, the screws help to lock the hand in place without being harmful.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b76/sixmilliondollarman/Saber_StyleII_Sleeve_web.png
All brass on the saber is polished to this luster. By hand.

Feel free to comment thus far. I'll get the other pics sorted out ASAP and posted.

CaelestisMiles
05-21-2007, 02:08 PM
very classy looking. i like it.

Lord Maul
05-21-2007, 02:38 PM
very nice saber jonitus 8)
i look forward to the completed pics

chase
05-21-2007, 04:01 PM
very nice, how would someone who cant do something like that go about getting something like that.....i kind of want one...

Jay-gon Jinn
05-21-2007, 09:29 PM
Very nice, even un-finished in those pics!

Barmic Rin
05-22-2007, 12:32 AM
Nice Jon, but get her sprayed & fired up!

Jonitus
05-22-2007, 08:28 AM
What was the worst part of this project was the spraying. Clearances are so tight, I had to fit the brass on the saber, mask it off, then spray the MHS parts. Then I had to mask off the MHS parts to polish the brass up to luster. It was a giant pain in the neck.

Pics soon, I promise. Busy couple of days lately. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised how it turned out. I still haven't decided if to sell it or not. I'm not too proud of it because it's just a stunt saber. We'll see how I feel in a week or so.

Jonitus
05-29-2007, 08:37 PM
Okay. Here's the remainder of the pics and description:

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b76/sixmilliondollarman/100_3135.jpg
Just a nice quartering shot of the completed saber. Nothing particularly noteworthy to say here.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b76/sixmilliondollarman/100_3136.jpg
Rotated to show more of the custom sleeve I crafted for this saber.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b76/sixmilliondollarman/100_3139.jpg
Detail of the grip area, as well as the socket-head cap screws that secure the polished brass rings to the body of the saber. There's three sets on this saber, each set 120 degrees from each other.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b76/sixmilliondollarman/100_3140.jpg
More details, this time of the emitter area.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b76/sixmilliondollarman/100_3137.jpg
Showing how menacingly sharp the emitter tips are. Not for the faint of heart.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b76/sixmilliondollarman/100_3141.jpg
Showing the relative scale of the saber compared to a human hand.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b76/sixmilliondollarman/100_3142.jpg
Rear quartering shot. There's holes ready for sound, should the new owner want to go through the trouble of adding it.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b76/sixmilliondollarman/100_3149.jpg
Yep, the brass overlay is highly polished.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b76/sixmilliondollarman/100_3150.jpg
Ditto for the bands comprising the grips.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b76/sixmilliondollarman/100_3144.jpg
Lit blade picture. I went with Cyan Lux III. Would look better as red, but time constraints and a blown LED made that impossible. Easily changed for the new owner.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b76/sixmilliondollarman/100_3152.jpg
Money shot. Say cheese!

987654321a
05-29-2007, 08:58 PM
that is a fine piece of work you have got there.

Jay-gon Jinn
05-29-2007, 09:12 PM
That turned out great!

Halcyon the Righteous
05-30-2007, 03:06 PM
AYE!!! It Looks fantastic!!! Though i t kind of reminds me o Corbin and Jei Rangers saber, but the fact thatyou dremmeled all the tubing is amazing! A Really classy and beautiful shape

Lord Maul
05-30-2007, 04:50 PM
hot DAMN!
that thing is sweet jonitus!
the paint looks perfect in contrast with the brass sleeve 8)

Steeljack
05-30-2007, 09:00 PM
Good freakin' lord. What a beaut of a saber. I love what you did with the emitter shroud. Dangerous -- but oh so pretty. Nice work!

Barmic Rin
05-31-2007, 12:10 AM
Fantastic Jonitus!
That needs to be put in the calendar! Submit it dude!

Barmic Rin
05-31-2007, 09:26 AM
http://cgi.ebay.com/Custom-stunt-lightsaber-LED_W0QQitemZ110132986607QQihZ001QQcategoryZ99971Q QssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


YOU'RE EBAYING IT!!!!!????!!!!!! :? :?

IF I HADN'T SPENT SO MUCH WITH TIM I WOULDA KILLED FOR THAT!!!!!!

I hope you get the buy it now price dude! Someone out there will be getting a bargain! 8) 8)

Damn payday being two weeks away! Damn bills!! :x :x :x :x

Jonitus
05-31-2007, 09:34 AM
Yep, I'm eBaying it. I too hope I get the full "buy it now" price, but with CIV being done with, money might be tight for quite a few folks. c'est la vie.

I will definitely be building another one of these. No doubt about it.

Shadow
05-31-2007, 05:23 PM
Man i wish i had the money for that! :cry:

Jonitus
06-06-2007, 06:49 AM
The saber sold! Not for what I was dreaming of getting for it, but it sold nonetheless. It's new owner is a member here at TCSS. I won't say who exactly, and will let him make the announcement if and when he's ready.

Keeping it in the family. At least I know it will be taken care of.

Jay-gon Jinn
06-06-2007, 08:05 AM
I was watching the auction last night, thinking of bidding when I noticed who was bidding...congratulations to the winner!

Barmic Rin
06-06-2007, 09:25 AM
Whoever it was, post & let us know! I love this saber!

Edit: Just looked at the buyer! Why does he have all the nice things!!!!! :lol:

Corbin_Das
06-06-2007, 12:56 PM
Great looking saber.
I'm glad to say that I won the auction on Ebay and this beauty will find a home next to the Killer Penny and my 3 versions of Malius.

One thing people might notice:

The brass Malius saber.....forked brass emitter shroud:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/corbin_das/angles.jpg

The Killer Penny saber.....forked brass emitter shroud (with two cross pieces):

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/corbin_das/whole1.jpg

The Jonitus saber..... forked brass emitter shroud (with two cross pieces):

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b76/sixmilliondollarman/100_3140.jpg


Gee, I wonder if this saber will fit in. :D


I'm debating about changing out the cyan for a red and possibly adding sound and a driver. We'll see.



Corbin

Barmic Rin
06-06-2007, 12:59 PM
Corbin & his 'Fork fetish'!!!!!

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Corbin_Das
06-06-2007, 01:35 PM
Corbin & his 'Fork fetish'!!!!!

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Well, you know what I say.... "If you can't beat em, FORK EM!" :D

vortextwist
06-06-2007, 01:38 PM
awsome man!

Jay-gon Jinn
06-06-2007, 09:25 PM
Like I said I was about to bid on it, then noticed you were high bidder, and thought that's cool, one of the TCSS guys is going to get it! That should fit right in with your collection!

Corbin_Das
06-08-2007, 12:24 PM
Hi guys
I was thinking this saber might remain polished rather than weathered like the rest of my brass ones. The LED will probably be swapped out to a red (or possibly a red/orange) too. I'm leaning towards red.
Are there any other suggestions people might have about this saber? Eventually I might put a driver in there too. I had originally thought about replacing the 4.8V NiMH battery pack with a Li-Ion setup, but if I'm going to use a driver on a red, 4.8V is perfect. 7.2V would be better for a 5 watt or a Jedi colored 3 watt. A single 3.6V Li-Ion can power a red Lux direct drive no problem though. That would save a ton of space.
Because of the sharp points on the shroud, this saber will NOT be a dueling one. Much like my KP saber, it has the potential to hurt someone (including the holder) if care is not taken. My dueling sabers tend not to have sharp points or edges if I can help it.
Anyway, what types of upgrades/mods do you think would work well for this saber?


Corbin

Novastar
06-08-2007, 12:42 PM
Sounds like you have most of it figured out, Corbin!

I agree with everything you said regarding the Li-Ion possibilities and all that jazz. I guess the only questions would be:

1. How much room is in there... total?
2. Is it even possible to fit "everything" in there, such as Li-Ion 3.6 + PLI + extra LEDs + driver + multiple switches + q/d Lux LED setup?

The only other thing I might suggest is... I wonder what would happen if someone attached TWO speakers to a saber... putting one ahead of the other, or somehow made them side by side?

I don't know if that simply sucks more power and produces only a "little better" sound... or what.

I guess the only comparison would be a Maul? I don't recall those being super loud though or whatever.

Anyone? Anyone? Bueller? Corbin? Firebird? hehehh

vortextwist
06-08-2007, 12:52 PM
the mauls are pretty loud if you dont' have the stupid pommels or coupler on. but with 2 goin they kick butt. How about the tri lux? :lol:

Jonitus
06-08-2007, 12:57 PM
Sounds like you have most of it figured out, Corbin!

I agree with everything you said regarding the Li-Ion possibilities and all that jazz. I guess the only questions would be:

1. How much room is in there... total?
2. Is it even possible to fit "everything" in there, such as Li-Ion 3.6 + PLI + extra LEDs + driver + multiple switches + q/d Lux LED setup?

The only other thing I might suggest is... I wonder what would happen if someone attached TWO speakers to a saber... putting one ahead of the other, or somehow made them side by side?

I don't know if that simply sucks more power and produces only a "little better" sound... or what.

I guess the only comparison would be a Maul? I don't recall those being super loud though or whatever.

Anyone? Anyone? Bueller? Corbin? Firebird? hehehh

Two speakers facing eachother would work well, provided there was adequate ventilation for the sound to escape, and that the speakers were wired 180 degrees out of phase from eachother, so the cones don't collide. You'd want a bit of space between them, but not much. Just enough that the magnetic forces aren't noticeable.

vortextwist
06-08-2007, 01:00 PM
Sounds like you have most of it figured out, Corbin!

I agree with everything you said regarding the Li-Ion possibilities and all that jazz. I guess the only questions would be:

1. How much room is in there... total?
2. Is it even possible to fit "everything" in there, such as Li-Ion 3.6 + PLI + extra LEDs + driver + multiple switches + q/d Lux LED setup?

The only other thing I might suggest is... I wonder what would happen if someone attached TWO speakers to a saber... putting one ahead of the other, or somehow made them side by side?

I don't know if that simply sucks more power and produces only a "little better" sound... or what.

I guess the only comparison would be a Maul? I don't recall those being super loud though or whatever.

Anyone? Anyone? Bueller? Corbin? Firebird? hehehh

Two speakers facing eachother would work well, provided there was adequate ventilation for the sound to escape, and that the speakers were wired 180 degrees out of phase from eachother, so the cones don't collide. You'd want a bit of space between them, but not much. Just enough that the magnetic forces aren't noticeable.
so the speakers work together not against each other. I had a sub box that wired up the same way. I din't know that till a speaker blew :cry:

Corbin_Das
06-08-2007, 02:13 PM
I never thought about the speaker's magnetics afecting each other, but that makes sense.

Oh, there was another saber that got posted on this thread that deserves its own thread. I went ahead and moved it here (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=57519#57519).


Corbin

Novastar
06-08-2007, 05:02 PM
Oops, I should have been more clear about that regarding the magnetics.

I don't really want to post a diagram, but yeah, I was thinking a cylinder of space (maybe about 2") in between the speakers, and yes... them "aiming" at each other rather than the same direction.

And by the way, I can't remember who it was that said this, but it really doesn't matter what way a miniature (or high-pwr mini) "faces" when you're talking about how loud it will sound. There are many reasons for this, but hey the best way is... try it out! You won't really notice a difference, heheh

Anyhow, I was again trying to think of something semi-unique for Corbin.

Corbin_Das
06-09-2007, 12:33 AM
Check you email NovaStar.

I sent you a track for a base sound. Synthesized killer bee swarm. :)

Anyway, slightly more on topic...

I'm thinking of writing this saber (and Jonitus as a character, if he wants) into my persona story. I'm open to suggestions. Jonitus has left it up to me, not caring if he's a dark side or light side character. I could do it either way really.

I was thinking that perhaps, given the similar features of the forked brass shroud (in this case with two cross pieces, like the KP), that maybe he was somehow influenced by the works of Malius, either through other holocrons Malius might have made, journals, writings, etc. I was thinking that Malius could be a bit of a Dark Side.......legend isn't the right term......celebrity doesn't work either. Hmmm....whatever the term I'm looking for is, Malius will likely be a source of interest for those that study the Dark Side. Maybe Jonitus and I will have a common interest there. Thoughts?


Corbin

Novastar
06-09-2007, 01:52 AM
Artifact.

Corbin_Das
06-09-2007, 01:39 PM
An artifact would be fine, but unless it's an image from a flashback or a holocron or something, that would mean this saber would have to be weathered. If that were the case, it might be possible to build a new saber to the original specs, or Jonitus might have.

Novastar
06-09-2007, 05:12 PM
You can think of any number of storylines that might explain why the saber is "pristine".

Hasid Lafre
06-09-2007, 06:00 PM
How about this.

The new saber you have we shall call it NS for shot.

Now the NS belonged to a master and the KP belonged to his apprentis.

Big story here big fight there master did something and took the saber from the apprentis, dissmantled it and hid it away so if the apprentis ever came back to look for it(say the kp had some kinda effect to make the user stronger or something sith like magic). The apprentis was susposed to come back and look for it but never did and the master died protecting the secret of its wearabouts.

But in each location of a part or component theres very suttle hidded clues about where to find the next part.

Then how to tie the malus into this I dont know.

But this idea had about 3 min thought into it.

Corbin_Das
06-09-2007, 08:27 PM
That sounds cool, but since the KP was made from old parts, it would stand to reason that the NS would also be old, and therefore weathered. I'm trying to keep from having to weather this saber, though I'm sure it would look good that way too.

My take would be something more like the NS was made by someone else that also had an interest in the teachings of Malius, but was from modern times, like Corbin. I know it's supposed to be a long time ago in a galaxy far far away, but I'm talking relative to Corbin's existence.

Maybe Jonitus discovered a holocron by Malius and used it to remake a new saber based on one of his designs. That way, it would be a new saber, but with similar traits as the older ones.

Either that or Jonitus killed the person that made it. Sorta like Jonitus was a Sith hunter or Jedi hunter Hunter.


Corbin

Lord Maul
06-09-2007, 09:47 PM
Sorta like Jonitus was a Sith hunter or Jedi hunter Hunter.

now that's a cool concept. instead of hunting regular smugglers, he hunts jedi/sith

Hasid Lafre
06-09-2007, 10:52 PM
Well you could say that the master was wize and liked to keep things in prestine working order.

Or someone found it and cleaned it up to look new.

mind you I though tof the idea in like 3 min.

Maybe the kp was set in places where it was in a harsh enviroment or something like that. then you find the parts and have to clean them up a bit to make it workable again.

Corbin_Das
06-11-2007, 11:00 PM
Fantastic Jonitus!
That needs to be put in the calendar! Submit it dude!


I agree. It should be submitted.



now that's a cool concept. instead of hunting regular smugglers, he hunts jedi/sith

Actually, I wasn't talking about a Jedi Hunter. I was talking about either a Jedi or a Force user that tried to protect Jedi by secretly hunting those that would harm them during the Jedi purge.

But a Jedi hunter would work well too.

Jonitus
06-11-2007, 11:11 PM
I had some thoughts about the story.

Perhaps the builder of this saber was a student. He studied the legends surrounding Malius and did so for many years. He was plagued by dreams about a brass saber and he went off in search of the saber.

Unable to find it or it's whereabouts, he set down on a barren, desolate planet and went into a deep trance-like state. When he awoke, his vision was clear. He walked for many days before coming to a clearing. In that clearing was a simple rock formation that had a single glint of color. It was a crystal, and the type suitable for constructing a lightsaber from. Harvesting the crystal, he went back towards his ship, where his other materials were stored and he set upon building the saber.

For days he labored, always so close, yet he could not get the crystal aligned properly to safely ignite the saber. When he finally did get everything right and he ignited the saber for the first time, a cold wind seemed to blow through the ship and through his very being.

ETA: I can't submit the saber for the calendar. I've already made my three submissions.

Corbin_Das
06-11-2007, 11:41 PM
Jonitus,
And you said you couldn't write. :wink:

It sounds pretty cool. My character will have similar visions, so maybe those that study Malius' history tend to experience those.

But the choice remains, will this student become an agent of darkness and perhaps hunt Jedi during the purge? It would fit with the story pretty well. I don't know if Corbin would do battle with your character or not, but either way is cool with me.

By the way, where is the recharge port on this thing?


No problem on the calender. I can still submit it, if you don't mind.



Corbin


Edit: This saber uses an S Hilt number 1 and a ribbed extension, so that means around 8 to 9" of internal space. 6.5" of it will be 1.25" ID and the last couple inches or so inside the ribbed extension will be 1.125" ID.
Depending on what battery pack is in there, I'm HOPING to have enough room for other stuff. We'll see how it goes though.

Jonitus
06-12-2007, 06:25 AM
If you are looking at the front of the saber, the recharge port is on the left. It was never shown in the photos, sorry. Standard 2.5mm recharge jack like the ones sold here.

The battery pack is a 2200mAh 2+2 AA pack. Side by side, end to end. There should be ample room behind the pack for a speaker and resonance chamber, and enough room in the ribbed extension for a soundboard. It's how I laid it out, but didn't install the parts. Originally, I wanted to go with a low-profile momentary switch, so I modified the stock switch hole. It is now 5/8" diameter, in case you are wondering.

If you want to submit the saber for the calendar, that is fine, but you'll probably have to crop the picture to eliminate the Star Wars logo.

Corbin_Das
06-12-2007, 12:09 PM
Do you have a link for the low profile momentary switch? Maybe I can use that. I have an early Plecter Labs sound board and driver board that uses a momentary switch. I thought this saber might be a good one to use those in.


Corbin

Jonitus
06-12-2007, 12:13 PM
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062508&cp=&sr=1&origkw=momentary+switch&kw=momentary+switch&parentPage=search

Corbin_Das
06-12-2007, 12:20 PM
I've used those before. They're quite low profile. Not the sturdiest thing out there, but very low profile.

Jonitus
06-12-2007, 12:25 PM
I wish they made vandal-resistant switches in a small enough form factor that they'd be suitable for saber builders. Especially illuminated ones.

Corbin_Das
06-15-2007, 01:38 AM
Hi all
I got the saber today (well, yesterday, since it's 4AM here now)! I have to say that this is much nicer in person than the pictures make it out to be. It IS a long saber, but it feels great.
I'm intending on putting a Plecter Labs sound module into it. It's an older model with a separate driver, but that's OK. I'd like to customize some sounds eventually, but I don't have the program for it. Maybe someone can suggest something?
One thing with this older Plecter unit... It can only take up to 6 or 7V, so no 5 watt. Also, it only goes up to 1,000mA, so the red, red/orange and amber won't be as intense as they would with the newer boards that drive them at the proper amperage. Still bright, but it would be about 50% less amperage than it COULD be.

So I'm stuck with trying to figure out.....

Should I go with a Sith colored LED that seems to "fit" this saber, or should I go for something that normally runs at 1,000mA, like green for instance? I have a bin 6 cyan that's a pastel green (like those blades in KOTOR 2).

Next decision.....

One speaker out the pommel or another one up near the grooved section too? I discovered that Jonitus cleverly concealed 8 holes in the grooves underneath the narrow brass strip on top of the saber. You can't see them, but if a speaker was up there somewhere, the sound would come out the center of the saber in addition to the pommel. Great idea dude!

I also have to say that the wiring was very well done. I've seen some pretty scary wiring jobs, but Jonitus does a first class job: heat shrinking over every connection and wire groups connected into a bundle with sections of tape, twisted all pretty. :D Anyone thinking of getting one of Jonitus' sabers, you won't be disapponted.

The kill switch in the recharge port is a nice touch too.

By the way, I went to Radio Shack today anf picked up the low profile button you drilled the hole for. Fits perfectly. It's the right type for the Plecter board I have too. Even better. :wink:


I'll update folks when more progress has been made.

In the mean time, I'm open to suggestions on the color.


Corbin

Novastar
06-15-2007, 02:12 AM
That switch that Jon listed is exactly the same model of one I used on the Flange v3 saber for the lockup/blaster button... heheh, so--awesome!

Corbin--if you use a K2 in red, red-O or Amber, you are aiming for 700ma ANYHOW... or you could overdrive at 1A. :) But the Cyan or Greens that want 1A (Lux III, right?) should be fine too. I would go for a K2.

The speaker idea you have should be good--let me know how it turns out... I only wonder--will the sound output be "split" or be "doubled"?? I dunno... :?:

Finally, so how do the sounds work on the board? No SD card?

As I said, I'd be happy to help with a "Corbin" sound font if you wish. You still need to send me the "swarm of bees" sound, heheh... :)

Jacen_Aurion
06-15-2007, 08:11 AM
can anyone tell me if these switches would work?

Switch 1 (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062534&cp=2032058.2032230.2032278&pg=1&parentPage=search&sr=1&retainProdsInSession=1&origkw=momentary+switch&kw=momentary+switch&numProdsPerPage=50&parentPage=family)

Switch 2 (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062487&cp=2032058.2032230.2032278&pg=1&parentPage=search&sr=1&retainProdsInSession=1&origkw=momentary+switch&kw=momentary+switch&numProdsPerPage=50&parentPage=family)

Switch 3 (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062519&cp=2032058.2032230.2032278&pg=1&parentPage=search&sr=1&retainProdsInSession=1&origkw=momentary+switch&kw=momentary+switch&numProdsPerPage=50&parentPage=family)


Edit: shortened link: Corbin Das

Jedi-Loreen
06-15-2007, 11:21 AM
Man, don't you guys know how to make smaller links? :roll:

vortextwist
06-15-2007, 12:09 PM
but how hard is it just to click on it?

Novastar
06-15-2007, 01:43 PM
Jacen, almost any switch will "work" when wired up correctly and when matching what a board does to the switch type (i.e. momentary, latching, or maybe it supports both)...

Question is... what will fit in your hilt, what is best for you. Variety is what makes things interesting--and using that variety to suit YOUR needs... well that is where it's at.

Corbin_Das
06-15-2007, 09:26 PM
Thanks Novastar.
I'd like to have a bank of "Corbin saber" sounds. I'm trying to find a way to upload the song off the CD somewhere so you can hear it. Any suggestions?

On another note....

A red (or maybe red/orange) K2 might work. Greatly reduced lumen output though. At least on paper. I've had good luck with some before though. It might depend on the bin code. I'd have to attach it to the star board myself though. The only red K2 Stars I've seen are the lower current ones.

I've gutted the saber in preparation for the Erv' board. By the way Novastar, it DOES have an SD card. It just doesn't have a lockup function or blaster option. It shimmers when struck and ramps in and out on ignition/shutoff. That's it. It's a V 1.1 board I think.

Now I'm trying to decide if I want to use the 4.8V NiMH pack that it came with, add another cell to make it an even 6V setup, or what. Li-Ions will be too powerful for this V 1.1 board, according to Erv', so I'm likely going to be using NiMH.

If I go with 6V, I'd have to use 3 AAs in a triangle in the main body section, just behind the On/Off, then have two more AAs up front in the ribbed section. This would allow for the soundboard to be mounted in the rear so I could access the SD card by just unscrewing the pommel. Otherwise, the SD card would be up in the ribbed section and hard to get to.

Why can't things ever be easy? :)

Oh well.

As for the dual speaker, I'm not sure if it would be twice as loud with two speakers or if the power going to them would be cut in half. I know with LEDs, you can put them in series and each LED will get the same amount of current. I don't know if the speakers would do better with them in series or parallel though.

Any stereo junkies out there that know how best to hook up a bunch of speakers? Can they be put in series or parallel and be OK?


Corbin

Corbin_Das
06-16-2007, 01:22 PM
OK, Hurdle #1:

The Plecter board I have is a V1 model that tops out at 750mA. Erv' recommends it be used with 4 AAs, so there wouldn't be enough voltage to run a 5 watt. The mA would only be half of what a red Lux would want, so that's not good.

Suggestions?

The way I see it, I can hook up one of my drivers, I can go direct drive with a red or I can wait until I spend the money on another Erv' board or buy an Ultra board whenever they become available.

Because my driver has a standby mA output of 1 Amp, even it wouldn't truly make a red shine its brightest. Better than nothing though.

Now I could go with a set of Li-Ions and a 5 watt something or other being run with my driver. No sound then however, but it would be bright. No red though. Not with 7.2V.

I could go direct drive with Li-Ions in parallel to give me 3.6V with 5,000 mAh or some unGodly time like that. Again, no sound.

I might be able to run an FX board with a red, but again, the output would probably be less than stellar. If I were to do that, I'd be better off just using the Plecter board I think. Less hassle. Still, a 4.8V input might allow for a decent mA output for the red. We'll see I guess.

It might take some fancy wiring, but I might be able to use a relay hooked to the LED outputs of an FX board to run a red direct drive. I don't really like running relays if I can help it though. Sometimes they can get your saber's sound out of sync with the light.


So what to do.....


If I can find a DPDT pushbutton, I can probably do more. I suppose I could build one of my old Graflex buttons up with one. I'd need to take the chrome off it though.


Sigh....


Decisions, decisions..... :)


Corbin



EDIT: I just got an email from Erv' suggesting I send the board back to him so he can reprogram it for 1.5A and upgrade whatever he can. So that's cool. In the mean time, I'll just have this saber reassembled with a red Lux.

Hasid Lafre
06-16-2007, 06:59 PM
Persionally I would go with an amber for that one.

Corbin_Das
06-16-2007, 07:16 PM
I've tried amber blades with brass sabers before. They look OK, but my own personal taste leans more towards red, red/orange or green... At least as far as brass sabers go.

On a side note: My girlfriend says I should do the "buttspike" saber blade in the popmmel like I sometimes do. It's basically a blade holder disguised as a pommel, perhaps with a 1" long blade inside that can look like a "crystal" that would light up with a second Luxeon. You could remove this "crystal" and put a second blade in there if you wanted.

If I did that, I'd probably use a #7 emitter I suppose. But the one that came with this saber is very nice too. It would be a shame not to use it here.

Here's a prototype pommel we might carry. It looks good on this saber too. Granted, I'd paint it to match if I were to use it:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/corbin_das/pommel.jpg

Corbin

Hasid Lafre
06-16-2007, 07:21 PM
Oh modifyied style 7 with slots!

DROOLAGE ME WANT!

Corbin_Das
06-17-2007, 12:01 AM
Well,
Here's where we stand currently: I'm sending my V1.1 Plecter board back to Erv' and he's going to upgrade it to run a red Luxeon at 1500mA, and he said he can smooth out the programming (reduce latency time, add shimmers, etc). So that's cool.

I ran across a red/orange Lux I had set aside some time ago that I might use. It's of a bin with an extremely red tint and a rather high lumen output (200 to 210 I think it was). I might use that one once I get the board back.

In the mean time, I drilled and tapped another hole for the Blade Retention Screw, as well as adding a brass finishing washer to the screw that holds the brass shroud on. I replaced the heatsink with a slightly thicker one that I was able to lap down until everything lined up nice and straight and good and tight. So we're good there.

Until I get the board back from Erv' I put a green K2 in this puppy. It's not bad, but this saber longs to join the dark side I think, so a Sith color awaits.

Here's a couple shots of the K2:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/corbin_das/floating.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/corbin_das/mirror.jpg

Corbin

Hasid Lafre
06-17-2007, 12:03 AM
Nice

Corbin_Das
06-17-2007, 12:04 AM
Hasid,
You must hang out on this thread a lot. I barely had the pics posted 10 seconds before your response. :D

Hasid Lafre
06-17-2007, 12:06 AM
roadrunner cable net. I seen it posted up seen the pics and then replyed.

dosent take me long to surf the site

I think a duel speaker setup would be very awsome sounding. But what I love the most is how 2 mauls connected sound. its just sick. now if only the motion sensors would work at the same time it would sound very badass.

Jonitus
06-18-2007, 10:25 AM
I must say Corbin, that I am very impressed with the changes you have made thus far and the changes you plan to implement in the future. Seems like this saber will turn out like I had originally envisioned but never realized. May it serve you well.

On a different note...I am glad you found the construction and the wiring satisfactory. I do try my best to make things neat and efficient and safe, and am glad it met with your approval.

Also, how do you rate the blade on this particular saber? Do you find it to be bright? I thought it was when I built it, but I chalked it up to being partial to my own craftsmanship. Do you think this is a blade I could offer on a regular basis?

Corbin_Das
06-18-2007, 04:41 PM
Hi again
I'm looking forward to completing this saber. Everyday I come up with a little something more I might want to do with it. The latest idea I have in my head is possibly engraving or acid etching a few Sith ruins somewhere on the brass. Maybe amongst some sort of intergalactic tribal vine/knot work. I haven't decided.

I also put in a screw to secure the brass shroud on the MHS body:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/corbin_das/screw.jpg

Then I put in another screw to secure the blade:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/corbin_das/brs.jpg

Eventually, I'm going to take the chrome off the recharge port retaining nut so it matches the brass. A minor detail, but still.

I'm going to have a "U" shaped piece made to surround the on/off switch I think. I tend to bump it a little when handling the saber. Maybe Ace can machine up a small brass piece. Either that or I can try to find a PVC section that fits well over the brass tubing and shape that.

Here's what I'm thinking:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/corbin_das/guard.jpg

Let's see.......OH.......Assuming I can get my equipment set up soon, I'm thinking of powdercoating the black areas over. I'd have them bead blasted first to get rid of the paint. I haven't decided yet though. I may just touch up the paint here and there as needed.

Yes, you heard right....I'm wanting to start powdercoating things as a side job. I do enough gun parts myself to make it worthwhile anyway.

Now, on to my impressions of the blade....

When I first saw it, I thought it was a GeluKhan or an Ultra blade. It lights up very evenly, even for such a long blade. I generally use 34 to 36" blades myself, so this one was a bit long for me. Still though, with a hilt that allows for a great two handed grip, the longer blade felt very nice.
I suppose my only suggestion on the blade is, if you were planning to sell them, try to either get the film to fill the inside of the blade more (not wrapped so small) or put something in the bottom of the blade to keep the film from sliding out. Maybe a piece of 3/4" thin walled tubing? That's my only real criticism of the blade, and a minor one at that.


Corbin

Corbin_Das
06-21-2007, 12:25 AM
OK, I need opinions......

I was thinking of putting Sith runes on some parts of this saber. Maybe acid etched, maybe engraved. I don't know. I took a magic marker and drew on it right now, just to see if it's something I'd want:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/corbin_das/runes.jpg


So, should I "rune" this saber? :wink:


I'm still trying to think of what the runes should say, and in what language (English, Latin, etc). I was thinking that a reference to the Sith code might be appropriate. Since there are 5 lines to the code, and there are 5 bands on this saber, I thought having "passion", "strength", "power", "victory" and "freedom" put on the bands might be good. I might have to abbreviate them though, since each band is divided into three. So something like "PAS" and "STR" and so on might work. That's assuming it stays in English.

I was also thinking of putting a full inscription elsewhere on the saber. It wouldn't be the Sith code though. Not if it's abbreviated on the bands. I was thinking that since the difference between the dark side and the light side (in the eyes of a Sith anyway) is either commanding the Force or serving the will of the Force, that something like this might be appropriate:

"COMMAND OR SERVE"

Other ideas were things like:

"DOMINATION THROUGH FEAR"

or

"FEAR IS MY ALLY"



Thoughts?

Novastar
06-21-2007, 12:54 AM
How about...

"NACHOS ARE TASTY"

or...

"EVIL WILL WIN... BECAUSE GOOD IS DUMB."

or...

"BAD MUTHA.......R"

hehehhe

Barmic Rin
06-21-2007, 04:55 AM
How about the classic 'Nii!!!'

http://moon.felk.cvut.cz/~pisem1/blog/KnightsWhoSayNi.jpg

We are the Jedi knights who say,.... Nii! :D :lol: :lol: :lol:

Seriously, I think the sith precepts would be cool. (abbreviated, naturally)

Jacen_Aurion
06-21-2007, 02:48 PM
you should do whatever you want with it corbin. dang, did i say that? How about you put in your phrase "gas it up" which at least was in your sig recently. Or if this is a Red Lightsaber, why not just engrave "Yes I think they deserve to die, and i hope they burn in hell"

other random suggestions (and completely pointless suggestions as well):

1. If it's a purple lightsaber call it "Purple Haze"
2. If it's green call it "Green Day"
3. If it's pink why not name it floyd?
4. Why not engrave a communist sickle if it's red?
5. If it's blue why not engrave "Red, White and" onto it.
6. Since Snake Venom is yellow why not call it "Thank You For The Venom"?

Corbin, I trust you will make the right decision, d0n't f41l m3h 4g41n. Why Must you listen to Gr34t T34ch3r J4c3n? B3caus3 Kn0wl3dg3 1s p0w44!
If you succeed then you may want to check out this link, it's hilarious funny good stuff.

http://www.megatokyo.com

Corbin_Das
06-22-2007, 01:07 AM
Well, as much as I'd like to put this on a saber...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/corbin_das/gasitup.jpg

This particular saber is supposed to belong to another character in my persona story. So having "Gas it up" wouldn't be very appropriate I don't think. Still, it's a cool thought for my next saber. Maybe a Tri-Lux dark side saber with a Plecter V2.5 board? :D


Corbin

Novastar
06-22-2007, 01:29 AM
v2.5 CF is going to be 3-lux? :shock:


P.S. "You are a huge nerd!" --Triumph

:P (I'm teasin'... hehehehh)

Corbin_Das
06-22-2007, 01:36 AM
v2.5 CF is going to be 3-lux? :shock:


Actually, I'm not sure the 2.5 would be able to drive 3 Luxes or not, but I'm hoping it can handle enough voltage to do so. We'll see though. If not, I'll figure something out.

I heard that the 2.5 will have a music playback feature too. Now we can each have our own theme song to play when we enter a room. :D

The possibilities for thread derailment just listing what song we'd have boggles the mind. :shock:

Novastar
06-22-2007, 01:41 AM
heheh, yeah I guess if it can handle (let's say) 14 volts, you COULD give it 3 LEDs that each are looking for about 4 volts... with a few to spare for extra life. Problem is... each would need to have a good amount of current, so the total current would have to be around 1.5A, which means 0.5A per LED. Best you could do would be 3 Lux K2 Reds/Red-Os/Ambers. Or perhaps some Lux Rebel setup. And you could not control each individual LED... yet. :)

I asked Erv about allowing music to play WHILST manipulating the saber in the background... but that is not going to be possible for some time.

I only wish I had the resources for Ns5. I can't do it alone. Impossible.

Corbin_Das
06-25-2007, 11:02 PM
No music? :cry:

Oh well. I guess I have to wait for my theme music, huh?


I was playing around with a spring loaded center punch and just for fun, I made a series of lines out of the "dots" it makes onto a spare piece of sink tube I had laying around. I then tried doing a simple pattern and it looked OK.

So I figured I'd see how a rune looked done this way. I'm not sure if I like it or not, but it would be a cheap (albeit very long and tedious) process of engraving the Jonitus saber.

Have a look at a rune for the letter P. It's about 3/8" square:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/corbin_das/dots.jpg

I might use this for some vine-like engraving rather than the runes, but we'll see.


Corbin

Hasid Lafre
06-26-2007, 09:18 AM
Very nifty.....

Oh corbin I was just thinking...are you a fan of the movie the fifth element? cause your name is really close to corbin dallas.

Corbin_Das
06-26-2007, 12:03 PM
Very nifty.....

Oh corbin I was just thinking...are you a fan of the movie the fifth element? cause your name is really close to corbin dallas.

Hi
Not to get off topic too much, but yes, I'm aware of the similarity. I've been using the name Corbin Das since about 1993 or 94. It's a character name I used for video games and such. I later started using it for a "screen name" online, and I started writing a background story on the character.
The 5th Element came out in 1997, and his name was Korben Dallas. Still though, it sounds a lot like Corbin Das and I imagine a lot of people assume I stole the name from that movie. That's OK though.



Corbin

Hasid Lafre
06-26-2007, 12:05 PM
I was watching it the other day and it just kinda hit me like hum I wonder, ya know.

Very cool thou, Have you any thoughts abut what your gonna do as far as the letters?

Corbin_Das
06-26-2007, 12:17 PM
Have you any thoughts abut what your gonna do as far as the letters?

The letters? You mean, what it's going to actually say?

Hasid Lafre
06-26-2007, 12:25 PM
Yeah

DACOTA
06-26-2007, 02:00 PM
Wow Jonitus, nice job.I hadent seen the recent pics till now.
Hey thats funny,corbin bought it. :lol: Maybe somone will do that with my first mhs saber that I'm going to ebay.And Jonitus if you dont mind me asking,how much did it cost you to make?

Corbin_Das
07-02-2007, 12:12 AM
Well,
I've been talking with Erv' and I decided to put his sound board and driver into this saber. I have one of his older setups (the kind where the sound board is separate from the driver board). He is having me ship it to him so he can upgrade it a bit for me.

So now I'm faced with what all I should have in or on this saber....

There's holes drilled in the ribbed section underneath the narrow strip of brass there. I originally thought of using a dual speaker setup in there: one by those holes and another in the pommel.

I'm also entertaining the thought of a lit crystal viewed through slots in the ribbed section instead of the second speaker. Not sure if I could get both in there or not. I can set it up where the LED that lights up the crystal ramps up in sync with the Luxeon so it looks like the crystal is "powering up".

Then there's the posibility of an extrenal LED that comes on with the saber. A resonator could be put in there too as far as that goes. A battery low blinking LED maybe? An LED that lights up when being recharged?

I'm open to suggestions. I just don't want to make the external surface of the saber so covered with lights and such that it impairs your ability to hold it comfortably. Despite some REALY sharp points on the front of the shroud, this saber is fully capable of dueling, since it's an MHS saber, albeit a rather tricked out one. :)


Anyway, here's what I have right now:


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/corbin_das/JonitusMHS.jpg

As you can see, I split the batteries up, 2 front, 2 rear. Technically, I could put 3 in a pyramid back behind the on/off switch, but I don't need 6V for a red saber. Erv' recommends 4 AAs. I drew the recharge port on the wrong side, but it was crowded below with the batteries and all.



Or, I might be able to do it THIS way:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/corbin_das/JonitusMHS2.jpg

This will depend on whether I can fit both boards PLUS a AA battery all in one area of the threaded hilt #1. If I can, and I know I can fit a pyramid of AAs behind the on/off, then this arrangement would free up about 3.5" in front of the on/off (basically almost all of the ribbed section). That would allow for a front speaker AND a couple slots to show off a lit crystal inside.


So feel free to give suggestions here.



Corbin

Hasid Lafre
07-02-2007, 05:25 AM
Persionally Myself I would go with a single speaker setup and put it in the ribbed section.

Take a washer of some sort and put it in the pommel with the recharge port in that.

That way it will free up a dat bit of space and you still got some extra room.

You could possable stick the crystal in the ribbed section also but I would just let the light shine thru the speaker vents.

To light it I would use 2 - 3MM leds like on ervs crystal setup on his graflex.

Do you want an accent led on the outside of the hilt? if thats the case then I would put it right above the switch.

Maybe you could set it up to where the crystal's "light" acts as the battery indicator?

Just some ideas to play around with.

Corbin_Das
07-02-2007, 10:43 AM
Thanks for the suggestions

The holes in the pommel are arranged in a circle and I'm not sure there's enough "meat" left to mount a recharge port there. Plus, there's already a recharge port mounted on the side up by the on/off, though I suppose with some creative adapting, an LED or something could be mounted there. Personally, it's out of the way and seems to work well where it's at though.

The holes in the ribbed section are covereed over by the brass strip. Since the holes are down in the grooves, it allows ventilation and sound to escape, but I don't think it would work well to see light there.

I've thought about having an accent LED up by the switch, but I'm still undecided. Plus, depending on what all I have in there and how I can arrange it, there may not be room for the LED above the switch. There might be batteries, a speaker or something else there. Still, I think it would look nice.

I wouldn't use the crystal's light as the battery indicator I don't think. Not unless I can have it come on constant when the saber is on, then flash when the batteries get low. That would light up the crystal, then flash it on and off when I needed to recharge. That might be interesting.

Other options include an accent LED inside a brass or black covertech knob, a resonator with adjustable speed or maybe some sort of protective cap for the on/off switch to keep it from being bumped. Sorta like those covers they have on airplane dashboard switches.

Or, how about this........

Have a slot made where the holes are under the brass strip. Go to one of those guys you see at the mall that uses a tiny saw to cut your name into coins or whatever. Then have him cut out a design or runes or whatever into that brass strip so that they will be backlit when the saber is on. That might look cool. Probably wouldn't be cheap though and I'd have to make sure it didn't weaken that strip too badly. I could add some dark film in the slot to make everything black until it was lit up too, though that might not be necessary.

If I went this route, I probably wouldn't do the crystal too.


Thoughts?


Corbin

Hasid Lafre
07-02-2007, 01:56 PM
Oh yeah I forgot he did the speaker holes in the pommel....

Well what I was thinking of with the light up crystal battery indicator is the light would reflect off the brass on the inside of the overlay and kinda glow on the hands or I dont knwo maybe the light going thru the crystal isent enought to reflect off.

But yeah I was kinda thinking that wy about them blinking like in ervs thread of simple pli.

Or you could just go for the look of its got a crystal but it dont do anything. Maybe like the cutaway pics of the inside of a saber. prolly do something like that.

Your using li-ions right? or will ervs board not run them?

But I still suggest the idea of speaker vents in the forward section that way you dont get that sound in the bottem feel.

IAm sure whateer you do will be kick butt.

Corbin_Das
07-03-2007, 04:27 PM
Hi
I agree that having the hilt glow within your hand would be cool. I'm not sure how well it would do that with just those holes under the brass strip however. I'd personally like to have backlit runes on the saber. I'm wondering if that should be done in place of a lit crystal, since IMO having the crystal AND the backlit runes would not be the best way to go. My reasoning is that it would be obvious that the crystal's light would be what was illuminating the runes and assuch, wouldn't be as impressive as having them light up from an "unknown" source, probably unexpectedly for those not familiar with the saber.

The lit runes would have to be either on the narrow brass strip over the ribbed section, or slightly behind that, just in front of the on/off switch. I might end up just going with a single large symbol or rune rather than a long saying. We'll see.

I would still like to have runes or some other form of decoration on the brass bands on the grip. Sincethere are 5 bands and each have 3 screws on them, that leaves 15 spaces. So I'd need to come up with 15 letter phrases if I want to fill it all up. I might be able to do 2 or 3 phrases, with the letters of each next to each other in the space between screws.

These ones couldn't light up though. :( Oh well.


I was thinking of 15 letter phrases like:

COMMAND THE FORCE
ETERNAL STRENGTH
THAT ALL WILL FEAR
CRUSH THEIR SPIRIT
LEAVE NOONE ALIVE
DESTROY THE LIGHT
FROM THE DARKNESS
MASTER OR SERVANT (thanks Steeljack)

For those familiar with my persona story, there is a legendary crystal called the Soul Mirror that gathers excess Force energy and makes it available to the user when needed. The ancient Sith, Malius utilized this crystal in his lightsaber to allow him to interact with it by the use of the Force. He could activat the saber, adjust it's blade length/intensity, etc.

Well, I was thinking... In order to incorporate this saber into my persona story, perhaps Jonitus was a follower of Malius' teachings and was able to locate a piece of the Soul Mirror and built his own saber around it. That might have led him to me, as he was trying to locate the rest of the crystal, as well as any other Malius artifacts.

KP saber and background (http://www.corbindas.com/kpsaber/KPsaber.pdf)

If this is the case, perhaps some the 15 letter phrases might refer to the Soul mirror contained within the saber:

I TAKE EVERYTHING
I FOCUS THE SPIRIT
I STORE YOUR POWER
I AM YOUR STRENGTH
GIVE ME YOUR ANGER
I GIVE YOU VICTORY
FEED ME YOUR WRATH
I TAKE YOUR HATRED
I'M THE SOUL MIRROR

Or something like that.

I really like the saying "Command or Serve" since it contrasts the general outlook of the Sith vs. the Jedi in regards to their association with the Force. Unfortunately, it's only 14 letters. :cry:


Thoughts?


Corbin

Hasid Lafre
07-03-2007, 05:25 PM
What about chained?

Maybe if space allows it a small ammount of el wire to light up the runes or maybe el paper would work better?

Jedi-Loreen
07-03-2007, 05:47 PM
I don't think he has room for an EL inverter in there....

Steeljack
07-03-2007, 06:22 PM
I really like the saying "Command or Serve" since it contrasts the general outlook of the Sith vs. the Jedi in regards to their association with the Force. Unfortunately, it's only 14 letters. :cry:

Thoughts?


MASTER OR SERVANT has 15, if my basic math skills haven't atrophied completely. Would that work?

Corbin_Das
07-05-2007, 01:56 PM
MASTER OR SERVANT has 15, if my basic math skills haven't atrophied completely. Would that work?

That's pretty good.

I think I'll add that to the above list.

Thanks :D

Corbin

Corbin_Das
07-16-2007, 07:25 PM
Just an update.

As some of you probably know, I'm putting a "vintage" Plecter Labs sound board and driver into this saber. I'm still trying to decide what other types of features I'll put on this piece.

Here is where I'll ask for opinions. While I'm waiting for the boards to get back from Erv' (the vintage one and a new 2.5 model), I'm debating about something:

I'm thinking about rotating everything from the ribbed section forward about 30 degrees. I'd add an O-ring in between the ribbed section and the grip in order to keep things tight, plus I'm going to have the brass shroud secured to the pieces with a screw anyway, to hold everything tight.

There's already 8 holes drilled in the recesses of the grooved section, but they are hidden under the brass strip of the tube at the 12 o'colock position. If I rotate everything so that the row of holes are to one side of the strip, I could have another row drilled and allow for better sound and/or illumination. Doing this also sets one of the slots in the emitter (that you can't otherwise see) in the center of the cutout on top of the emitter shroud. It would also allow for 3 slots to be seen at the bottom instead of the 2 it currently has. The 2 side ones would be half covered by the shroud, but it still looks OK.


Here's an idea of what I'm talking about:


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/corbin_das/comparison.jpg

The Pros to turning everything 30 degrees would be more sound holes (and better ventilation as well) and more details at the emitter in regards to having more slots showing. It would also allow me to line up the cutout for the ribbed section to perfectly frame it. Right now, it's slightly offset.

The Cons would be that the rear grip section would have an O-ring in between it and the ribbed section in order to make things line up, so it might not be as sturdy as it might if it were screwed down all the way. Of course, there's more machining to be done if I go this route too, but nothing major. The last Con is that there's a hole in the thin band that goes around the blade holder and it's made to line up with a screw that secures the emitter to the shroud. If I turn the emitter, that hole is in the center of slot, so I'd have to do something with it there.



Thoughts?



Corbin

Er Dan Gill
07-16-2007, 08:15 PM
Version 2. I wouldn't use an o-ring, because on my MHS it makes the blade holder feel like its wobbling when a blades in it.

But I came up with a different solution. I went to my local hobby shop and got varying thicknesses of sheet styrene. Then made several "washers" to match the diameter of my MHS parts. With so many different thicknesses of styrene washers I was able to find a good combination of shims. Then I used Tenax to weld the styrene washers together, sanded the edges smooth, painted flat black and called it good.

If I'm understanding your description(for the screw hole in the tip of the shroud), maybe you could find another one of the small black screws in the grip area and use one of those. Kind of like a second blade screw. Of course that all depends on the size of the hole in the shroud to work.

Corbin_Das
07-16-2007, 10:29 PM
Actually, the blade holder and the ribbed section will remain screwed together tightly. It's the threaded juction between the grip and the ribbed section that will need an O-ring or shim or whatever in there.

The hole in the shroud I'm talking about is on the bottom (6 o'clock) on the forward band of the brass piece. It's right where the "S" is in the pictures that say "Two Slots showing" and "Four Slots showing". On version two, the hole that originally held the screw that locked the shroud onto the emitter will be directly over an open slot.

I hope that makes sense.


Corbin

Hasid Lafre
07-17-2007, 05:02 AM
Ok heres an idea C

As for the bladeholder and making things line up right, heres what I did a while back.

Take an oring. a pritty good sized one and cut it to fit the mhs opening. now sence its only gonna work with the ribbed sections the oring will stay in place where the heatsink origionally sat. Sit the heatsink to optics in and put your bladeholder on.

You can make it sit tight but if you need to turn it just a hair more then you can.

As for the lower portion where the ribbed meets 7" section. I would make a spacer. something the size of the heatsink just open and slightly taller. when you get the measurments of how you want it to sit then you can just sand a bit off that metal spacer.

Hope thats understandable.

Corbin_Das
07-17-2007, 07:38 PM
I wouldn't want to set an O-Ring against the heatsink. Heat and rubber don't mix well.

By the way, I redrew those digital saber version to include the bottom view, so you can see that hole I was talking about. Originally, it had a screw that held the blade holder to the brass shroud:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/corbin_das/version1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/corbin_das/version2.jpg

Corbin

987654321a
07-17-2007, 07:54 PM
version one is way 8) er

Corbin_Das
07-17-2007, 08:08 PM
Well, version 1 wouldn't require me to do much else to the saber. It's pretty much already like that. The sound holes are hidden, which might be a cool thing, and the blade retention screw is set forward more so it grabs more of the blade.
The two slots are SLIGHTLY offset though(and I do mean slightly). Not enough to really notice unless you're measuring. The other thing is, the cutout for the ribbed section isn't symetrical the way it is now. It needs to slide forward a tad. Again, not a huge deal. If I slide it forward though, the hole on the thin band of brass wouldn't line up with the hole.

Hmmmm.....

Lord Maul
07-17-2007, 08:12 PM
I too like V1 better. It looks better not having the sound holes hidden in my opinion.

Corbin_Das
07-17-2007, 09:41 PM
The one that doesn't have the sound holes hidden is version 2.


Oh! By the way, I'm CONSIDERING attaching a brass covertech knob to this saber too. IF (and it's a big IF) I DO have one on there, it's possible it might cover up one of the 15 spaces on the brass rings of the grip. If that happens, and I'm still wanting to have the runes on each space, that would limit me to 14 instead of 15.

Not a huge deal, but I just realized it.


Corbin

987654321a
07-17-2007, 09:49 PM
only problem with v1 is that sound will get out but not much.

Corbin_Das
07-17-2007, 09:53 PM
Actually, it's not too bad this way. I just tried it with an FX board.

Hasid Lafre
07-18-2007, 03:57 AM
Well C I have been using the oring trick with mine for quite sometime now. It does stick and sometimes a pain to get the heatsink out but nothing melting like just sticks but once it comes loose a tiny bit it plops right out.

Corbin_Das
07-18-2007, 07:24 AM
I see. I'm not sure it will matter, but I'll be running the red Luxeon (or maybe red/orange) at 1500mA, which is more than it would be going "direct drive" normally. I'm not sure what method you use, but I just thought I'd mention it. Also, version 2 keeps the blade holder alligned with the ribbed section, so it's screwed in tight. I'd just use an O-ring between the ribbed section and the 7" grip section. So no need for an O-ring in the blade holder.

Another option is available to me if I feel like going that route: I have a number 2 blade holder that I COULD custom machine for this saber. That way I could have everything where I want it and keep everything tight. I could even have the brass sleeve slid forward 1/16" or so to symetrically center on the ribs.

But if I'm going to do that, should I stick with the current look or make something as unique as this saber is?


Hmmm..



Corbin


P.S. As I mentioned earlier, I hooked up an FX board just for fun and found that there wasn't really much difference at all between having the holes "covered" by the brass strip and having them offset. Granted, I don't have a second line of holes at this point, but since the holes are in the grooves and the sound has the depth of the grooves to escape out from under the sides of the brass, it sounds just fine, even when holding it there.
It's interesting having the holes hidden, since the sound appears to come from the middle of the saber without any obvious means to do so.

Hasid Lafre
07-18-2007, 07:34 AM
Yeah. the onlything I can think of for the rib/grip section is to take heatsink thats pritty think and take the center out so you got just a ring/spacer kinda thing.

I tryed a oring between the ribbed and grip section on my saber once and it dident stay very tightly.

Then machine out a new bladeholder to make everything work the way ya want, sence it dosent matter if the holes are hidden or not then I would make the holes bigger if posable, then make a second row of holes.

But I think really just redoing a bladeholder to make the way you want so everything lines up right would be a best choice.

Jay-gon Jinn
07-18-2007, 11:59 AM
It looks like you're leaning more towards option #2, and I'd say that may be the better look for it. If it were mine, I'd do what you suggested with the #2 blade holder you have, if having it machined isn't a big deal for you. I also think you'll like the feel of the sound coming from those holes on your hand. The one saber of mine that I converted to an F/X type has a small hole in the hilt where the original switch was, and I can "feel" the sound emenating from the hole! It almost makes the saber feel "alive." I noticed the same effect from the switchbox on my custom saber while trooping the Whitecaps game on Saturday afternoon.

Stinky Bantha
07-18-2007, 12:03 PM
I'm partial to number one just because the slots in the emitter line up better with the brass overlay, but I think number 2 would look better if you cut some of your own slots for the emitter. It would probably sound better as well.

Corbin_Das
07-18-2007, 09:10 PM
Hi all
Jay, I almost went to the Whitecaps troop, but I'm helping a friend get a car and taking him back and forth to dealerships and credit unions prevented me from having the time.

I'm not sold on version 1 or version 2, to be honest. I could go ANY direction with it. Maybe even something like this:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/corbin_das/version3.jpg

Lord Maul
07-18-2007, 10:24 PM
I like that one the best corbin

Jay-gon Jinn
07-19-2007, 02:35 AM
I'm liking that one, too!

Hasid Lafre
07-19-2007, 06:17 AM
I like it but not compleatly sold on it yet.

Corbin_Das
07-19-2007, 10:42 AM
I like it but not compleatly sold on it yet.


I'm just brainstorming. I'm not sold on any one desing yet either. I'm open to suggestions though. Maybe a crowned emitter? Or something similar to before with two slots below and one lined up on the top slot of the shroud? The number 2 blade holder I have can be machined many different ways, if I go that route.

Corbin


P.S. I'm intending on keeping this saber un-"ancient". I'm not sure if I'll keep up with having it polished all the time though. The black paint on it is starting to come off in places and I'm considering a different form of darkening it.

Hasid Lafre
07-19-2007, 12:08 PM
I would anodize it oh yeah that would look sweet. as for the brass. after the polish wears off go play with it for a while and get your hands all sweaty that brass will look aged quick.

with the bladeholder I would machine out the top of it so it matches the cutouts on the brass layout, then for the bottem imagen the style 4 bladeholder, now where the slot is at the top of the bladeholder remove that part that joins the 2 togeather.

Corbin_Das
07-19-2007, 06:38 PM
I'm not sure I understand what you mean by "remove the part that joins the two together".

One thing about having a slot up top to match the brass shroud is the blade retention screw would have to be set back so far, it would only catch the last 1/4" or so of the blade. Not the most secure that way. I suppose that top slot could be shortened or the screw could go in front of the slot.


Corbin

goldsaberwarrior
07-19-2007, 08:37 PM
I about believe I like that one better than the killer penny. Two things just out of curiosity. What color are the sabers in your sig blade wise Corbin? Have you picked a color for that saber if you build it yet? Last is there a program where you can make 3D pics of saber; if so where do you get it?

Corbin_Das
07-19-2007, 10:17 PM
I about believe I like that one better than the killer penny. Two things just out of curiosity. What color are the sabers in your sig blade wise Corbin? Have you picked a color for that saber if you build it yet? Last is there a program where you can make 3D pics of saber; if so where do you get it?


Hi GSW.

In trying to keep this thread about the Jonitus saber:

See saber details about the Killer Penny on this (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=61154#61154) thread

Here's (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=61156#61156) the thread for the other saber, known as the Malius saber.


The current saber (and the topic of this thread) will probably have either a red or a red/orange blade I'm thinking. I put a green K2 in it just for fun until I get the Plecter Labs board for it:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/corbin_das/mirror.jpg

As for a 3D program for sabers, I generally have Ace do mine. I think he uses Solidworks or something, but he could tell you for sure. I don't have a 3D saber program.



Corbin

Hasid Lafre
07-20-2007, 07:21 AM
http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/8334/699hw3.jpg (http://imageshack.us)


I hope I get the point accrost with this. the section of the blade holder thats in the black box.

Where the slot opening is and that bridge of the bladeholder comes togeather. remove that.

DACOTA
07-20-2007, 08:04 AM
I'm liking this stuff so far.So is the saber up there in corbins post for himself or to show new mhs and other parts?

Hasid Lafre
07-20-2007, 08:26 AM
The black and brass saber is the one jonitus made that corbin purchased from ebay that cost a good penny.

Now hes making it super super cool,

Corbin_Das
07-20-2007, 10:45 PM
So is the saber up there in corbins post for himself or to show new mhs and other parts?

The Killer Penny is in my signature just because it's my personal saber. Same with the Malius. The Jonitus saber was assembled by Jonitus using MHS parts and a custom brass tube. As Hasid says, I bought it from him on Ebay and I'm looking at upgrading it with a Plecter Labs sound module, a different LED and possibly (POSSIBLY) a new emitter section. Oh, I might put some Sith runes and maybe a covertech knob on it too.


Corbin

DACOTA
07-21-2007, 02:41 PM
OOOOHH,sounds good.I could see it was the one Jonitus built but I wasnt sure why there was a modded version of it as a drawing.Now I know.

goldsaberwarrior
07-21-2007, 07:24 PM
I'll have to get my saber finished up fast so I can post pics in here. The killer penny is still a cool saber. I still think I about like the drawing of a possible design better though. I already have an idea for a personal double hilt based off the one I'm doing. The first personal double hilt will be made to used by itself. Once I build my 2nd and 3rd double hilts they'll be smaller than regular double hilts so I can dual wield them easier. Still you can use 2 regular sized double hilts at one time with no problem, I just prefer shorter ones when I dual wield them.

Corbin_Das
07-26-2007, 10:48 PM
Hi everyone.
Well, here's where things stand right now......

The Plecter Labs board for this saber has been reworked by Erv' and should be on its way back to me shortly. It's a Version 1.1 or 1.2, and as such, could only go to 1,000mA. Seeing as how I wanted it to drive a red Lux at 1500, that was a problem. I'm happy to report that it will now deliver 1.5A to the Luxeon.

*It has a dual speaker system with increased audio output.

*It has a red high intensity LED that will either backlight some runes or illuminate a crystal. It will act in sync with the Luxeon (ramp up, shimmer, etc).

*There will also be an adjustable resonator that will be in sync with the blade.

Since this older board has a maximum voltage rating of about 6V and since the red Luxeon I'll be using doesn't require as much voltage anyway, I'll be using the battery setup recommended by Erv' : A 4 pack of NiMH cells. Because of my intention to save every little bit of space I can, I decided to make a custom battery pack that has 3 cells in a triangle with a single cell behind them that will lay next to the board.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/corbin_das/batterypack.jpg

(By the way, the carbon fiber looking strips on the grip and neck of the saber section is just a sticker).

This configuration has the entire ribbed section empty of any electronics, except the Luxeon wires running through. This will allow the ribbed section to act as a MAJOR resonation chamber for the forward mounted speaker. So much so, it MAY be unnecessary for 2 speakers at all. We shall see though.
I was considering having the ribbed area house a crystal that could light up in sync with the blade. I wouldn't want it to muffle the sound resonation however, so if I DO use it, I'll be sure to keep it low profile.
I was also considering having some kind of rune or symbol cut into the saber that could be backlit by the in sync LED. I'm not sure where I'd put it though. With the forward speaker sitting just in front of the on/off switch, I can't have it there very well.


Hmmm.......



Corbin

Hasid Lafre
07-27-2007, 12:49 AM
Any way you could wedge the speaker in the ribbed section?

Corbin_Das
07-27-2007, 12:50 AM
I'm sure I could, but I'd have to be careful while screwing te ribbed section on or I'll twist the speaker wires.

Hasid Lafre
07-27-2007, 12:56 AM
true....forgot about that.

maybe you could wedge it in then stick everything on say a toung depressor so you can hold everything in place while you screw on the 7" section. take some small needle nose plires and bring your switch into its hole.

Corbin_Das
08-31-2007, 02:04 PM
I've done similar assembly techniques over the years. From popsickle sticks to hemostats to clothes hangers. I've generally found that putting more forethought into the internal layout of the wiring makes a huge difference in ease of assembly later.
Sometimes it's easier to leave a little extra wire for a component like a switch or something, then just solder up the wires from the switch to the wires going to the board later. You should see how the latest saber I'm working on is laaid out in that respects. It's like a Chinese puzzle box to get it together. :D Let's not even get started on the Killer Penny. :?


By the way, I've been playing around with ideas for the saber some more:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/corbin_das/version5.jpg

Note that there's an activation box similar to the original Malius and the Killer Penny. There's also Sith runes on this particular rendering. They don't say anything yet. They're just random. Also, if you look closely, check out the rounded grooves in between each brass ring section on the grip. I just thought it might look nice.

I might do something more with the pommel to add more or different brass accents. I might even have a whole new pommel made out of brass. Maybe a pointy one? :D

I tweaked the emitter a bit too, but I don't think I'm quite finished with it yet.

Finally, I'm still debating on a blade color. Originally I was looking at red, then orange, now possibly amber even. For a brief instant I even considered white with a custom filter, but unless I go with a high lumen white, like a Rebel or something, I won't do white. Maybe even a light pastel green, like a bin 6 cyan. I doubt I'll do that though, since the board for this saber is set up for the "Sith colored" LEDs.


Thoughts?


Corbin

Hasid Lafre
09-02-2007, 12:48 PM
I like the plans but not a fan of the box thngy. Maybe if you could make it shorter it might blend in better.

xwingband
09-02-2007, 02:51 PM
I like the box. Since it's not overtly "push this up/down" in it's design... maybe a touch activated switch would be neat. I've never looked into that much, but it sure would be cool.

I'm not liking the curved grooves. I don't think it will really be noticed/worth it. With the screws it just doesn't seem like it'd be much of a comfort factor either... really it seems more like a "how much more detail can I cram in" thing.

vortextwist
09-02-2007, 06:07 PM
where would one get that carbon fiber sticker? maybe stock it in the store.

TimeRender
09-02-2007, 08:31 PM
I've seen that carbon fiber sticker in an automotive store, but I only saw it in really big rolls for doing dashboards and it was pretty pricey. I never even thought to use it on a saber.

Corbin_Das
09-02-2007, 08:43 PM
We're talking about stocking it. Tim has the source. It's just whether or not people ask for it.

I'd prefer this thread not turn into the wish list though. We have one for that. It's here (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=164).

Thanks

Corbin

JediTom
09-02-2007, 11:05 PM
I really like version 5 and the switchbox ties it in even better.
The curved grooves look nice and I think would add a little more grip.
The Sith runes I really like. The emitter looks better every time you tweak it.

vortextwist
09-03-2007, 07:10 AM
no problem

that that version is lookin pretty awsome, but also seems real busy.

Corbin_Das
09-03-2007, 12:19 PM
I agree that my designs can sometimes be a bit busy. Originally when I was considering the runes, I wondered if THEY would make it too busy. I'm pretty well set on it having runes though. The other elements, like the activator box and whatever cosmetic things I put on there will hopefully add to the overall look and not detract from it. But like all things, it's a matter of taste. I may love it even though several folks hate it. Likewise, I could have people saying "that's it! It's perfect!" and if I'm not completely satisfied with it, I won't stop til it's how I want it. I DO like getting a "reality check" from everyone though as far as design goes.
My thoughts for adding the activator box and the grill like slots on the blade holder was to have it somewhat mimic the design elements of the original Malius saber. In my story, the owner of this saber will have had one of the holocrons made by Darth Malius and will have used its teachings to help constuct this saber, just as I did when I make the Killer Penny. (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1597) I want these brass sabers to have a certain characteristic similarity, yet not be obvious copies of each other. Sorta like they're "brothers" or "sisters", but not identical twins. My thoughts about having those rounded grooves on the grip was to slightly mimic the rounded flutes of both the Malius and the KP.


Corbin

vortextwist
09-03-2007, 01:18 PM
don't get me wrong, I love it. There are so many things people thing up for their sabers that I would never thing of. It just show what all people can do to the mhs to make it their very own custom.

Corbin_Das
09-03-2007, 07:53 PM
I had some time on my hands today and decided to screw around with the design even more. This is a bit over the top in regards to having a bunch of stuff on it (ie busy), but I thought I'd post it anyway.

The main changes are the new brass pommel, some emitter changes, inclusion of a viewport/LED housing behind the thumbscrew and adding a couple of knobs by the activator box area to mimic the original Malius saber. Though on the Malius, they were up closer to the emitter.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/corbin_das/version7.5.jpg

I'm not sure about those knobs to tell the truth. The brass box I have for this is already made and has a threaded hole in each side, so there could be screws or knobs on the sides of the box instead I suppose.

vortextwist
09-03-2007, 08:14 PM
I love the pommel. I think no matter what ya do it's gonna be over the top and sweet lookin. 8)

Corbin_Das
09-03-2007, 08:17 PM
Thanks
It's just a matter of narrowing down all the choices. That's all.

For instance, I just did one with the knobs moved forward and small ones on the box. It's the closest to the original Malius.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/corbin_das/version8.5.jpg

For a comparison, the Malius is the saber on the right below.

vortextwist
09-03-2007, 08:19 PM
are the knobs used to cover mounting srews? I like the look of button heads more so

Corbin_Das
09-03-2007, 08:23 PM
are the knobs used to cover mounting srews? I like the look of button heads more so

In the original Malius, those two knobs are held in place by socket head screws. Those screws go through into the interior of the saber and hold an electronic module setup in the emitter. It puts power to a smoke emitter for a model train.

On this saber, the knobs would just be used for looks. They'd likely be held on with similar screws.

Hasid Lafre
09-03-2007, 09:39 PM
I really love that pommel idea but it would make the saber very much longer than I think it should be(as if it isent freaking long already).

But maybe shorten the box to say mabey in the over a 1/4" area.

Something like the size of the c&l box on the KP.

Corbin_Das
09-03-2007, 10:07 PM
To illustrate what I'm trying to mimic, I sat the Malius up next to this saber and even had the Killer Penny in there. Hasid, I COULD shorten up the box, but it's already made. I'm not sure how well it could be altered. Note, the parts are just set on the center saber for illustration purposes and the aluminum is bead blasted since I'm going to have it moly coated. I'll likely have that dome shaped piece on the box be attached to a slide switch or something. I considered having a lit up rune on the top of the box too. We'll see though.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/corbin_das/trio.jpg

Here's a shot of it from the side:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/corbin_das/V9.jpg

So, if I went with it like this, with the knob up top to serve as a blade retention screw and without the other 2 knobs, it would be like this. Note, the Malius saber has a knob here with a cracked red glass eye. I might do something similar and have the BRS holowed out to allow the blade's light to travel up the screw and illuminate the eye piece. Oh, I added a covertech like piece that's somewhat smaller for a carrying clip I have called a Krussel clip.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/corbin_das/version10.jpg

And a closeup of the Malius from the side. Note that the same looking view in my signature is actually flipped around in a mirror image.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/corbin_das/sidecomparison.jpg

Jonitus
09-03-2007, 10:30 PM
Freaking sweet! That's all I got to say.

Dang...

Corbin_Das
09-03-2007, 10:33 PM
Freaking sweet! That's all I got to say.

Dang...

Thanks dude!

I was worried that you were bummed that I'm changing things around so much of this saber, since you originally made it. I haven't heard from you lately. I'm glad this meets with your approval.

Do you have a favorite version or design element?

Jonitus
09-03-2007, 11:59 PM
I think I am fondest of version 5 so far. The latest incarnations have too much brass, especially the pommel, IMHO. I like the use of the runes on 5, but would also add the control knobs from your latest version to it.

Kinda hard to believe it's the same saber. It's better. Where'd you get the control box, btw? I may have missed it in the thread. I could definitely use something like that for a planned "ancient saber" I want to build.

Corbin_Das
09-04-2007, 12:06 AM
The box was custom machined a while back. It was originally meant to go on a Luxeon version of the Malius saber, but that saber was wrought with issues and will likely never be finished. So instead of having parts just laying around, I figured I might as well use them.

The BRS knob would actually have to be made custom. The one in the picture was just to get the feel to see if it's something I want to do.

I actually just came up with that brass pommel tonight (well, yesterday, it's 3AM now). I'm wanting to have more brass accents back there and wasn't quite sure how to do it. I considered having a series of rods or tubes coming out some of those holes in the bottom and having them attach to a brass plate that would kick the sound out sideways.

Corbin_Das
09-10-2007, 11:09 PM
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/corbin_das/version10info.jpg


Pretty self explanatory. I just need to find a circuit that lights up an LED when the 4.8V NiMH battery pack gets low. I suppose I could always try to dismantle a PLI and just use one of the LEDs, but I'd prefer an easier option.

Any suggestions?

GFORCE13
09-10-2007, 11:28 PM
Corbin that is another masterpiece, I really like that Hilt. Excellent work my friend.

Corbin_Das
09-10-2007, 11:32 PM
Thanks GF13
I'm not sure about having the pommel made of brass yet, and I might have the low battery LED be a recharging LED if I can't find a circuit for it. Other than that, I THINK I'm just about done redesigning it.

Corbin

GFORCE13
09-11-2007, 01:21 AM
Well you got me thinking and since in my Stunt Sabers I want the hilt as plain as possible, what if instead of a PLI or a Led make a super compact voltmeter/Pli (pocket size) with the Charging Plug so you can quickly check the Battery Pack externally. I haven't built one, since none of my Sabers are Rechargable yet but I am thinking of this in the Future.

Corbin_Das
09-11-2007, 01:48 PM
I've assembed PLIs into small "Tic-Tac" sized boxes before with a plug on it to measure battery levels before. It's a nice thing to have if you don't have a PLI on the saber. Just make sure it's set for the right voltage.

The reason I'm looking into having an LED on the box is... the box is already made and has a hole there, originally for a small recharge port, back when I used headphone jacks for recharge ports.

If need be, I could just put an audio jack or small LED or some other "greeblie" there that's not even functional. I just thought that since it's already there, it coldn't hurt to have something there that actually worked.

I'm open to suggestions, but I'm thinking either an LED or a port of some kind. I could use one of the portable PLI with the existing recharge port, so there's no need to make a second.

A headphone jack would be interesting, but not very practical. I mean, unless I wanted to wear headphones to practice my saber skills without others hearing, what's the point? I suppose I could plug in an FM transmitter to broadcast the sounds over a home stereo, but then I'd have the transmitter strapped to my wrist. If I could find a REALLY small transmitter, I might put a switch there to turn it on or off. But as most saber builders know, real estate inside a saber gets used up really quickly. Unless the transmitter was extremely small, I doubt there would be room for it.

If this saber had a sound board with an auxillary button, I could put that there...but the older Plecter board going into this one doesn't have that function available. It does the flash on impact and such, but no blaster deflection and no lockup. :(


So, here's the choices as I see it:



1:Have an LED there that's a low battery indicator
2:Have the same LED be a recharging indicator that goes off when the bateries are charged
3:Have a port of some type there for headphone or an FM transmitter
4:Have some non-functional "greeblie" just for looks
5:Have the port there used for a remote PLI that doesn't shut off the saber when it's plugged in like the regular one does
6:Some sort of mounting screw to hold the box onto the saber somehow?
7:Carry the "deactivation key" plug that killls all power when inserted into the recharge port


Corbin