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Nightwing
01-07-2006, 04:16 PM
Is it possible to add the Luxeon 3W driver to your saber hilt after you've already finished it? The reason I'm asking is because I want to make my own hilt pretty soon, but would like to buy the driver later, and add it. Having virtually no experience in electronics, I would like to know if this is possible.

LAN-ED-TUL
01-07-2006, 05:04 PM
are you just making it without any sound? just a straight led saber?
shouldnt matter. if you get a driver later, im assuming you mean corbins driver, you simply take out what you have and wire up the driver in place. if you want sound, then you hook up the sound board to the 2nd momentary switch. it acts like a trigger for the driver. so when you activate the led the sound should come on too. you have to hold the 2nd switch down when you hit the first momentary switch. and i think you do the same when turning it off, correct me if im mistaken.

in short, i'd say yes you could do that.

Nightwing
01-09-2006, 12:09 PM
Huh. Cool. What if I only wanted to use the flashing for clash effects? could I hook up one of those clash-sensors from a hasbro saber, and use only one switch?

LAN-ED-TUL
01-11-2006, 10:29 AM
the first momentary switch rund the clash and lockup effect. by, say swinging and hittin against another jedi's blade, you have to learn to time things right, you hit that switch and you get the clash/lockup/ shimmering effect. at least thats what i gather from reading up on corbins site. maybe you should check his site out and read a bit more on it there.

Nightwing
01-11-2006, 10:15 PM
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by LAN-ED-TUL

the first momentary switch rund the clash and lockup effect. by, say swinging and hittin against another jedi's blade, you have to learn to time things right, you hit that switch and you get the clash/lockup/ shimmering effect. at least thats what i gather from reading up on corbins site. maybe you should check his site out and read a bit more on it there.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Okay, but I was asking if it's possible to use only one switch if all I want the driver for is
(1)Clash effects using a hasbro clash sensor
(2)Power up/down effects.

LAN-ED-TUL
01-11-2006, 10:25 PM
not if you use corbins driver. you have to have 2 buttons to turn it on or off. one is held down while you hit the other both ways.

Nightwing
01-12-2006, 01:44 PM
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by LAN-ED-TUL

not if you use corbins driver. you have to have 2 buttons to turn it on or off. one is held down while you hit the other both ways.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Hmm. Are you sure you can't hook both wires up to the same switch?

LAN-ED-TUL
01-12-2006, 07:13 PM
i dont beleive so. but you could ask corbin or tim or even ultra. they would know for sure, but im thinking, NOT.

SuperCam
01-12-2006, 08:21 PM
I have one of corbin's drivers and you don't have to have a second switch. If you go to his site http://www.youcanknow.org/corbin/ he has about 6 different diagrams on how to wire it up. If you use a hasbro sound board with the same power source and switch as the corbin board it should flash by it self.

LAN-ED-TUL
01-12-2006, 08:51 PM
well, according to every single wiring diagram he shows, it says 2 switches not 1. it says 1 switch is on/off and the other has to be held down to get the on/off switch to work. then hitting the 2nd switch gives you the clash/lockup effect.

GFORCE13
01-13-2006, 01:12 AM
Hello I think I can help I am currently building a Led Saber using Corbin's Driver and Sound Board with a Force Resonator I have one DPDT Switch for both boards, the Shock and Swing sensors are part of the Sound Board so one switch will activate it all. I am only installing a secondary switch for the master power off, since sometimes the boards can get out of sync and you have to reboot them. I am still experimenting with Clash/Lock driver board working in sync with sound and will post when I have found out more.

May the Force
Be with You

Marc E.

GFORCE13
01-18-2006, 03:36 AM
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"> I am still experimenting with Clash/Lock driver board working in sync with sound and will post when I have found out more.

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Well I did it, the secret to get the Led Clash feature and the Soundboard to work simultaneously(on impact) is to match the polarity from the Driver Board with the wires from the sound board to the shock sensor. Unfortunately my Camera Down is temporarly down, so can't post any pics but if anybody has any questions, feel free to E-Mail me.

May the Force
Be with You

Marc E.

Nightwing
01-23-2006, 11:58 AM
Hey, I'm wondering... Will the extend/retract effect from the driver work with the LED blades that have a mirror in the tip? Wouldn't that make the blade come down from the top and bottom simultaneously?

GeluKhanGharr
01-23-2006, 03:18 PM
Now that's a really good question! Logic would indicate what you suggested - a lighting up at both ends, but the effect might not be strong enough as to be bothersome. Corbin, some input?

Born of Sith, seduced by the light.
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xwingband
01-23-2006, 04:19 PM
That is an interesting question... I bet it would. I don't believe corbin uses a mirror. On his blades he's not going for evenness and the fade is different because of the coring he gets.

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Nightwing
01-25-2006, 03:05 PM
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by xwingband

That is an interesting question... I bet it would. I don't believe corbin uses a mirror. On his blades he's not going for evenness and the fade is different because of the coring he gets.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">Hmm... in that case I may save the 40 bucks. Oh well, I usually like my sabers to ignite quickly like Luke's in ROTJ, rather than the slow, gradual thing, anyway. Thought it might be nice, but it's not that important.

SledFang
02-10-2006, 10:25 PM
Actually, I believe Corbin DOES use mirrored caps. I've been talking to Corbin about my lightsaber project for a while, and when I got my driver from him, I asked him for one of the acrylic tips he uses as well, and when he sent it to me, it does have a mirror on the bottom of it. He's been giving my suggestions on how to make my saber like I want it, and I doubt he would sell me something that messes up the driver effect that he sent me at the same time. I'm assuming that the tip he gave me is the same that he uses in all of his blades, and I have seen videos of his driver being used in blades with no such problems.

I haven't specifically asked him about this, but I think you'll be fine if you get Corbin's driver with a mirrored tip.

xwingband
02-10-2006, 10:38 PM
Yes, I have seen learned that too. It'd be interesting to know why this doesn't mess with the up/down.

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Nightwing
02-10-2006, 11:05 PM
Where can I see one of these videos?

SledFang
02-11-2006, 10:03 AM
http://media.putfile.com/Eriksmagenta

There's the video. It only displays the extend retract feature of Corin's driver. The blade does appear to shimmer at one point, but I'm not sure if this is the actual clash and lock effect or just an unintentional camera effect. I can tell you though, that the purpose of C&L is to create an effect similar to that of two lightsabers clashing. You can hook up Corbin's driver to motion sensors, such as ones out of Hasbro sabers, and the clash will initiate automatically whenever the Hasbro hit sensor detects a collision. If you hold down the clash and lock button the blade will flash brightly and then shimmer as though it is being held against another lightsaber. Corbin suggests using a momentary SPST switch for this, but you may be able to use a push-to-make SPST switch that will keep you from having to hold town the button. push to activate C&L, and push to deactivate it.

I hope the video is helpful. Try talking to Corbin about this stuff, he is truly very helpful.