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View Full Version : Got a 2003 MR Vader board...clash clarification



gthmnyt2580
05-15-2007, 02:30 PM
Ok, so i've spent the last few hours trying searching through the forums trying to figure out what i have to do...i just need some further clarification.....so my next saber i'm building is an Red Lux III saber which will include Corbin's (latching switch) driver from the store and now the 2003 MR Vader board for full light and sound effects....the blade on my vader cracked so i figured i'd use the guts for my LED saber. Anyway, i read a bunch topics regarding hooking up the two boards and i needed a little clarification. So here is the MR Board i have (got the pic from another post)

EDIT: THE PIC I PREVIOUSLY HAD WAS OF THE WRONG BOARD...PLEASE REFER TO THE PIC BELOW

I also have a sound board from a Hasbro Anakin AOTC saber...

Now here is my question regarding the clash:
- from what i read, i CANNOT hook up the one clash sensor from the MR board to the Corbins board at the same time right or else it will fry the board?
- If that's that case....do i just hook up the Hasbro clash sensor to Corbin's board then?
- or do i just spring for Erv's Lux driver from plectorlabs?

I have a ton of different diagrams saved to my desktop right now and i'm getting confused....lol...sorry

Ryma Mara
05-15-2007, 03:15 PM
Yes the clash sensor from the hasbro will work. corbin actually orefers them from what I have read along time ago, not sure of now :?

I myself am confused as to why it would need 2 clash sensors wouldent the switch be fine?

xwingband
05-15-2007, 04:38 PM
Since you have a 2003 I believe you can safely disregard the "it will fry the board" stuff.

It's simple if you look at the newer ones. The clash sensor is integrated with the outputs and thus not suitable for corbin's.

For the newer boards another sensor like a hasbros is just fine and/or a momentary switch will work.

gthmnyt2580
05-15-2007, 04:47 PM
Since you have a 2003 I believe you can safely disregard the "it will fry the board" stuff.

It's simple if you look at the newer ones. The clash sensor is integrated with the outputs and thus not suitable for corbin's.

For the newer boards another sensor like a hasbros is just fine and/or a momentary switch will work.

Interesting..it would be great if i could just use one...then i can save the Hasbro board for my son's saber....if that's the case...which color wires go to which board? the clash sensor has 4 colored wires coming off of it - Red / Orange / Brown / Yellow....do i cut them all off the MR board? do i cut certain ones and feed 2 wires to the Corbin board and then leave the other 2 attached to the MR board?....sorry for the questions....all the topics that i've seen thus far mostly cover the 05-06 MR sabers and not the older ones.

xwingband
05-15-2007, 04:54 PM
If it's anything like the Luke ESB then the yellow and orange are clash wires. The others are for the swing. You can simply "share them" by splicing in leads from corbin's board.

It seems to still be in a housing there, but if you take it out you should be able to check it easily. Play connect the dots with the PCB traces. There should be two swing sensors (they'll rattle audibly) and the odd one out is the clash.

gthmnyt2580
05-15-2007, 05:22 PM
Perfect...thanks xwing....at least know i have an idea of the wiring....now i need to finish the dang design for my next saber...so i far i have the emitter design figured out...not its just what body type to use and the overlay design for that...thanks again

gthmnyt2580
05-15-2007, 10:28 PM
Ok...so i was wrong about my board in the pic.....i thought my board was exactly the same as the one in the pic i previously found in another thread and posted....but it's not....here are pix of my actual board:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v428/gthmnyt2580/IMG_0208.jpg

As you can see, there are only 3 wires not 4 coming from the clash sensor.....Red / Orange / Brown...so yeah...i'm confused again....i still want to use this board for one of my future sabers but i dont know what wires i need to lead to both boards

Ryma Mara
05-15-2007, 10:34 PM
Do you have the connector that went to the led strip?

Jay-gon Jinn
05-15-2007, 10:52 PM
Do you have the connector that went to the led strip?
You're probably going to need that connector....it has the positive and negative wire(s) for your luxeon led. I've got a Vader board in my custom saber, too, here's what it looked like(from the other side):
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o141/Jay-gon_Jinn/MR_board.jpg
The purple wire was the led positive, the bundle was the negative for the led, and the yellow ones were for the switch. The clash sensor was hot glued to the board when I got it, and I don't have a pic of that side of the board.

Ryma Mara
05-15-2007, 10:59 PM
His is an 03 yours looks like the 05 like mine.

xwingband
05-16-2007, 05:56 AM
Well, it seems he has pics of both '03's. Neither of those is the '05.

I haven't seen a board with just three... kind of odd. You should still be able to follow the trace of the shock sensor to see which wires it connects to.

Jay, he's using Corbin's. He doesn't need the main connector.

Jay-gon Jinn
05-16-2007, 07:24 AM
Oops...I forgot that was the whole point to his question, how to wire up an MR clash sensor to Corbin's board....D'oh!

gthmnyt2580
05-16-2007, 10:29 AM
Hehe....thanks though Jay....i actually PMed Corbin (probably should have done that in the first place (Duh)....and he said in some cases it has fried it and some cases it hasn't....he suggested just attaching the extra clash sensor from my Hasbro board just to be safe...which is true....i dont want to be spending the money just to see it go up in smoke...thanks again guys

erv
05-16-2007, 11:31 AM
Reason for the "only 3 wires" is simply : from the pic I can see only one motion sensor, and the clash sensor. Common + (guess what... the red wire, probably) and two signal form the sensors. To get the clash "output", find first the common plus, attached to both motion and clash sensor. The clash output is the other wire of the clash sensor, then.

and I confirm you don't need the main connector, whatever you're using a external driver like corbin's or mine. Useless to spend time finding a part you don't need. When getting the luxeon connected to the MR board, just solder all outputs from the transistors together with either just solder or a piece or resistor terminal or hardwire, and grab the (+) out of the PCB.
Or unsolder/cut the connector on the PCB, clean the holes, and solder wires into them (I just hate connector when I don't really need them, wire+solder+heatshrinking tube is much more reliable)
Erv'



Well, it seems he has pics of both '03's. Neither of those is the '05.

I haven't seen a board with just three... kind of odd. You should still be able to follow the trace of the shock sensor to see which wires it connects to.

Jay, he's using Corbin's. He doesn't need the main connector.