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Strydur
05-08-2007, 11:27 PM
If anyone posts a tutorial that is complete and consise using the standard 3w,k2 setup..no relays etc..and I use it then I will give that person store credit for the amount of the conversion kit. This only applies to tutorials that are not done obviously.

jjshumpert
05-09-2007, 06:26 AM
tim im working on a 5w mr combo using a 9.6v rechargeable pack, would you be interested in a tutorial for this setup?

ti-el_terall
05-09-2007, 08:33 AM
When i get my maul Il do it, free of charge. Id only like to have my name in the credits :)

Strydur
05-09-2007, 08:36 AM
Feel free to post any tutorials but I am looking for just straight forward ones that will confuse the least amount of people to sticky. :D

DACOTA
05-09-2007, 10:14 AM
So I can do it for the maul once I do the other half.So just the setup of the led and clash sensor along with the finished pics would be good for the tutorial?,ya know starting from the disasembly pics you posted.

jjshumpert
05-09-2007, 10:26 AM
so lets say i do a tutorial on the maul, are you wanting to see from stock hilt, dissasembly, wiring, shock sensor mounting, lux wiring to the mr plug and then reassembly?

Strydur
05-09-2007, 12:52 PM
Use the mace and vader as examples. Whoever posts the one I use will get the credit so no complaining if you both do one for the Maul and I choose the others etc..

ti-el_terall
05-09-2007, 01:00 PM
Ok, should we post thme in here?

jjshumpert
05-09-2007, 01:18 PM
ill break down a maul and write up a tutorial with pictures tonight. ill be using a custom heatsink and the stock blade/holder since i havent had the chance to order the new kit yet. this will give me a reason to tap out the blade retention screw mounting, still not shure how i'll do that one :twisted:

Lord Maul
05-09-2007, 03:12 PM
i'll do a tear down of the luke rotj if ya want tim. then you'll just need to get the kits out

jjshumpert
05-09-2007, 03:28 PM
while im at it ill write up a tutorial for the ani rots, if your wanting full tutorials on all the hilts...

Strydur
05-09-2007, 04:32 PM
I want full tutorials for them all yes. But only using the kits as I sell them.

The luke can wait until I have kits available. But feel free to post it anyways.

jjshumpert
05-09-2007, 05:22 PM
ill go ahead and write up the maul then, but ill have to order the conversion kit before i can add all the pics in, unless you want to send me kit so i can finish it up... :twisted:

jjshumpert
05-09-2007, 08:17 PM
This tutorial will show you how to convert your 2005 Master Replicas Darth Maul to a 3watt Luxeon using The Custom Saber Shop conversion kit . The saber will retain all sound functions and use the original switch. I make no guarantees that the wiring etc that I say to use in this tutorial will be the same in all models. You will need to have basic soldering and mechanical skills to do the conversion. You can reuse the stock MR blade by sanding the base of the blade down so that it will fit inside the blade holder. When finished you will have one very strong saber as everything between your hands and the PolyC blade will be metal to metal with no weak plastic.
http://a245.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/47/l_cff0025a91dda8117ab7ea47940c8884.jpg
Unscrew the pommel and remove the battery pack.
http://a164.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/5/l_d12ad007a945de94babcca430723b72b.jpg
There is a small pin in the side of the activation switch that must be removed.
http://a149.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/2/l_5c72e3354f4d72af90e425a5bcb93c24.jpg
Using a small punch push the pin inside the knurled cap.
http://a360.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/29/l_c92bc8787288ddc6b6fb38b4d6dd390f.jpg
Once the pin is pushed in, using a small flathead screwdriver carefully pry the cover off and remove the small metal ring under it.
http://a472.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/41/l_15fe17028ee0a458153ed0c2c5724f3f.jpg
Inside the black plastic switch there is a small philips screw that must be removed, as well as a small metal tube that acts as a guide and spacer for the screw and switch.
http://a245.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/33/l_6d5b9a43f2da4ad0acbc4306a31497dc.jpg
Unscrew the aluminum knurled knob and aluminum ring directly behind the activation switch.
http://a100.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/33/l_fd7ce4b89577b317982033bb4d61b0f3.jpg
Remove the convertech knob from the bottom of the hilt.
http://a364.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/43/l_e852bef80f8b55c21eca2eb619f7178b.jpg
There is a large pin that goes through the hilt body just behind the emitter. Using a punch push this pin all the way through the hilt to release the blade and blade holder from the hilt.
http://a859.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/23/l_b26762d4a270bd0d4347026a03fa1072.jpg
Inside the hilt there is a plastic ring that must be removed. This will not be reused, so there is no worry if it is damaged while removing it from the hilt.
http://a768.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/43/l_c27b65f6af1be6f78f33623e89066fbf.jpg
You can now push the blade and electronics of the saber out the pommel end of the hilt.
http://a436.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/64/l_d0a2dbb3cf68bd896d86779ffa58fa6b.jpg
There are 2 small pins that connect the blade assembly and holder to the sound module.
http://a298.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/48/l_96c52c6c2365a436f1064fd229e27221.jpg
Push these in with your small punch and separate the blade assembly from the sound module and unplug the led connector.
http://a400.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/3/l_67e523363deb7825eb46bfab7e09f06f.jpg
There is one large pin that holds the blade inside of the blade holder, using a small punch push this pin all the way through the blade holder assembly to release the blade from the blade holder.
http://a962.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/5/l_31c275143c334745fd567e79ae2fba81.jpg
There is a small pin keeping the led and shock sensor mount inside the blade. Using a small drill bit in your dremel, cut the blade tube around the pin, then using a pair of needle nosed pliers remove the pin from the blade assembly.
http://a850.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/40/l_eaddff72207d243009211d3f64f9fff1.jpg
Remove the black plastic led and shock sensor mount along with the led strip from the blade tube and cut away the black plastic housing.
http://a403.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/58/l_d5e96895b03cf745b7a3adececf22772.jpg
Cut the led wires from the led strip. Brown, Red, Orange, Yellow, Green, and Blue wires from the connector should be cut about one half inch from the connector, and then soldered together. Using a piece of wire that you just cut, solder together with your negative wires and after cooling cover with heat shrink tubing.

The blue wire from the shock sensor and the purple wire from the connector should be soldered together. Using a piece of wire that you just cut, solder together with your positive wires and after cooling cover with heat shrink tubing.
http://a23.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/27/l_cd3a455c7f92c5187348c26dad71d18e.jpg
Mount your Luxeon to the heatsink by threading the wire leads through the holes on the heatsink.
http://a787.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/8/l_f074fcddc119c1fcc639e68b51aeb8ca.jpg
Insert the lens into the lens holder and mount to the Luxeon.
http://a777.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/38/l_7c2cbedcb61e25bc34c944754a1d2b40.jpg
You can now attach the battery pack to test your connections.
http://a876.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/3/l_487407a87d8fe53b26638f91cb4df6fb.jpg
Now thread your heatsink into the blade holder.

Cut out the top of the sound module as shown. Drill a small hole as shown so that the shock sensor can be mounted into the top of the sound module.
http://a622.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/48/l_1e034df86243a3ce85c5857a93ebd2fd.jpg
Connect the led connector and mount the shock sensor.
http://a829.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/16/l_84c57a1b22f89e22faa0801ec8ff4fc4.jpg
Mark the position on the outer hilt body for placement of your blade retention screw. Drill and tap a hole through both the hilt body and blade holder to match the screw of your choice.

Install the blade screw.

Install the black plastic switch, spacer, and screw.

Replace the small aluminum ring and red knurled switch cap.

Replace the switch cap pin.

Tighten the aluminum knurled screw.

Replace the convertech knob.

Insert the battery pack and screw on the pommel.

You have now completed the TCSS Custom Luxeon Conversion.
http://a580.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/59/l_c8457d3a31e4b40c19f7dfa91a4b9163.jpg

Strydur
05-09-2007, 09:49 PM
Looks good..you need pics obviously. It wouldnt exactly be fair to just send you a kit now and then have someone else post a tutorial before you get it etc..

Need to change the wording to say maul and not vader :?

I wouldnt drill and tap the outer section and then drill and tap the blade holder seperately. The reason is you need the threads to line up so you should tap both at the same time while the assembly is together.

There should be room to not need to do what you have done for the shock sensor but that is a cool idea.

Anyways..enough from me. I posted this little contest so I wouldnt have to worry about getting them done. So first person to post a complete tutorial I use gets the kit. Or better yet I will give you a kit of your choice so maybe you can work on the next tutorial. 8)

jjshumpert
05-10-2007, 05:32 AM
oops, i did type vader huh? ill get it all fixed up later today. dont worry tim, i wasnt serious about getting a maul kit sent right now! :twisted:

DACOTA
05-10-2007, 11:20 AM
Well I can do it I have the other kit and the other half of my maul so all I need is a center punch,I dont need the store credit since I got my holders free I just want to be the one to do the tutoral.

What I did is cut off the little tips of the clash sensor and then I hot glued the sensor horizontally in one of the side milled slots of the copper slug.Then I cut off 2/16 off the blade holder cause the switch wouldnt go close enough to the hole,it was 2/16's off hence the cutting.I think either way you still have to do some work whether you re-locate the sensor or cut off 2/16 of the holder but imo what I did was less work. :D

jjshumpert
05-10-2007, 11:40 AM
dunno bout that, i would rather spend a minute to do the cutout and drill than 10 cutting down the blade holder... i didnt have to do any modifications to get everything to fit other than the 2 cuts and drilling. it seriously took about one minute after i figured out how i wanted to do it

DACOTA
05-10-2007, 02:06 PM
So whats the difference,cutting a holder and gluing a sensor or cutting and drilling a plastic holder and placing a sensor,either way it takes a minute of work.
I dont mean to be rude its just my opinion and either way its up to Tim.
I do like the way you did it I just didnt want to on mine,and besides it gives people a couple of diiferent ways to do it and its not like mine or yours works better than each others,there just different. :D

jjshumpert
05-10-2007, 03:06 PM
i thought you were saying you cut the aluminum blade holder you got from tim... see why i was confused now? lol :twisted:

DACOTA
05-10-2007, 03:30 PM
I did cut off a little from the holder I got from Tim.The mr maul conversion kit.

Strydur
05-10-2007, 03:34 PM
You cut the aluminum holder?

jjshumpert
05-10-2007, 07:51 PM
well thats about all i can do for the maul until i get the chance to order the conversion. btw tim the sensitivity is way better than i thought it would be once it all got back in the hilt, im very impressed with the outcome!

DACOTA
05-11-2007, 09:38 AM
Yeah I did.I'll have to test agian when I do the other half but Im not sure,you would think that you wouldnt half to considering the holders are the same length and all but all I know is when I slid it all in the switch did not line up about 2/16's from the hole in the hilt.So I dont know.Then once I cut that little bit it all fit on the first try and and I re-assembled it and I love and it works great,clash sensor and all.

vortextwist
05-11-2007, 01:31 PM
did it go all the way up into the hilt? You know there are 2 white o-rings in there.

Ryma Mara
05-11-2007, 09:26 PM
I thought the kit was designed to keep them orings in there.

Strydur
05-11-2007, 11:06 PM
It is..you have to push it through them.

DACOTA
05-12-2007, 03:26 PM
Yeah I did push it past that and all the way to the metal of the emitter.
Like I said the switch just barely didnt line up to the hole in the hilt,enough to where you couldnt put the switch back on but after the cut it fit.

Novastar
05-13-2007, 12:50 PM
This isn't necessarily surprising, as ALL machined metal has variance.

Personally, I'm GLAD when things don't fit "just right" and I have to do a little sanding/grinding, because I really like a tight fit (well not too tight), considering the parts go through "shock abuse", lol.

Especially on blade holders--I'm glad when Tim's blades (or other blades) just baaaaaaaareeellly don't fit into a TCSS emitter... I give the emitter a teeny teeny tiny amount of sanding, and I get that nice tight fit which makes me feel happy about the blade never having a chance to come out... even if the blade screw were to loosen a bit.

Anyhow... isn't that what TCSS is all about--customizing things for YOUR needs. I'd personally hate to see 100 *IDENTICAL* Maul conversions with absolutely no differences of any kind. That would lessen the experience (IMHO).

DACOTA
05-13-2007, 02:57 PM
Thats a good way to think about it. :wink: :D Personally it doesnt bother me about what I did its only 2/16's its not gonna really affect how the blade holdes.I'm happy with the convesion and thank you Tim. :D

Oh and Novastar thats not why it didnt fit,although true the holder didnt fit because the clash sensor made a little more room that wasnt there before when the saber was stock.

Novastar
05-13-2007, 11:32 PM
I understand Dacota... I was simply saying that all machining has variance, whether it is in threading, OD to ID, or whatever.

However, let's see... to "re-rail"...

...tutorials, anyone? :) Come on! Tim needs 'em--he's given us a lot... let's give some BACK! :)

I would do ALL of these myself, but I've never had any interest in "maintaining" a Force FX MR's look. I've always turned them into MHS + sink tubes, and/or totally custom sabers with recessed switches (I hate those idiotic switch "boxes", lol)...

DACOTA
05-14-2007, 09:19 AM
:oops: I know I just need to take the other half of my maul apart.

jjshumpert
05-17-2007, 06:18 AM
so anyone else care to take a stab at this, topic has been dead about a week so far... dont let me be the only one to post here ppl! :twisted:

Strydur
05-17-2007, 07:52 AM
jjs..send me a e-mail and I will send you a kit to finish the Maul since you seem to be the only one interested.

ti-el_terall
05-17-2007, 08:25 AM
Tim, I have just been waiting for my Maul to arrive :(

DACOTA
05-17-2007, 08:26 AM
Hey!Im interested too but I need to take apart my other maul half and get a center punch.I do need to figure out how to get the pin out of the switch though.

jjshumpert
05-17-2007, 09:12 AM
mail sent tim

Firebird21
05-17-2007, 04:00 PM
I am quite interested, but I have nither the saber or the funds for such a project. Otherwise I would be all over it. Don't count me out yet though... first chance I get I'm all over this one! This is just my style 8)

jjshumpert
05-18-2007, 04:29 PM
tim i just put in an order for maul and ani conversion kits to finish up the tutorials for both. give me a few days after they are recieved to finish up the tutorials for both. thanks brother! :twisted:

LAN-ED-TUL
05-18-2007, 07:25 PM
allright!!! the finished and completete tutorial for maul is all im waiting on, then i will get my parts for it.

still might be a month before i can, cuz i got to pay for the hotel at the con for 3 days, and my tickets for the weekend. almost 400 bucks all together.

DACOTA
05-28-2007, 10:44 AM
Very nice maul,great job! Ok I got my center punch so tomorow hopefully I'll take it apart and make the tutorial.

Lord Maul
05-28-2007, 11:00 AM
Very nice maul,great job! Ok I got my center punch so tomorow hopefully I'll take it apart and make the tutorial.

dacota, JJ is doing it. tim sent him the kit already.
you're a bit late :wink:

DACOTA
05-28-2007, 11:08 AM
Yeah I know but the way I do the conversion is a little different and I would think I could do one to just in case if tim likes my way better.But I already got free maul kits so I dont want any prize just a chance to do the tutorial.I got free kits cause I sent tim half of my maul so he could design them for the store.

vortextwist
05-28-2007, 11:11 AM
he may do something that nobody thought of.

DACOTA
05-28-2007, 05:56 PM
he may do something that nobody thought of.

Who,me or JJ?

vortextwist
05-28-2007, 08:21 PM
u, or anyone else that want to do one.

DACOTA
05-29-2007, 08:05 AM
Yes thats true,what you said before.I'll start it today.

jjshumpert
05-29-2007, 01:48 PM
parts are in, maul tutorial will be done sometime tonight and the ani around the end of the week

DACOTA
05-29-2007, 01:50 PM
I'm still gonna do my version if its all right with you JJ.

jjshumpert
05-29-2007, 02:49 PM
the tutorial is ready for review tim, let me know if there is anything else you would like me to add to it, ill have the ani up in a few days :twisted:

Strydur
05-29-2007, 04:04 PM
JJ was there suppose to be a pic that went with the

"Now thread your heatsink into the blade holder."

Also just for future reference make it so the wires drop down through 2 of the cutouts on the led instead of wrapping them over the outer edge. I think it works easier that way.

Other than that it looks great and I will move it soon. Can you E-mail me all of the associated pics please so I can host them.

jjshumpert
05-29-2007, 04:16 PM
ill break it down, take the extra pics (realized i need one of the hilt finished without the blade in it) and re align the lux wires. btw im really impressed with the heatsink/blade holder design on this one, it would be a great idea to work into mhs.

ti-el_terall
05-29-2007, 04:17 PM
Glad that this worked put for you Tim. I hope to get the Maul kits for my B-day, if I even get my Maul by then :lol:

DACOTA
05-29-2007, 05:30 PM
Ok so Tim I guess you dont want me to bother doing a tutorial too do ya. :( Man I wanted to do it to,oh well I like JJ's.

Strydur
06-09-2007, 08:20 PM
JJ your tutorial is up..thanks

I had to move some stuff around as your pics didnt mesh with the text. Let me know if you see anything out of place.

jjshumpert
06-09-2007, 09:27 PM
looks good tim, ill have the ani up asap, work schedule is infringing on saber projects lately...

LAN-ED-TUL
06-10-2007, 03:12 AM
so the new metal blade holder section, once the copper slug and led stuff, is screwed up inside end, just butts agaainst the lower MR section, and you slide the whole thing back up unside the hilt?


also, could you drill and tap holes on the slug to use nylon bolts to hold the led down like all other setups? or wil it not clear or something?

i wondered, cuz if you could, withoput any problems, i would do that when i get around to doing mine.

vortextwist
06-10-2007, 05:45 AM
I think with the threading it just mashes everything together, so you don't need the nylon screws.

Lord Maul
06-10-2007, 09:38 AM
i think lan's worried about vibrations slowly unscrewing it.

i'd like to know that one too tim :D

Strydur
06-10-2007, 10:22 AM
If you are worried about that a drop of hot glue, silicone or whatever will hold it from backing out. I doubt it will though.

jjshumpert
06-10-2007, 10:35 AM
no worries, the slug wont come loose from the blade holder, once you screw it all together there is alot of tension inside the unit, in fact when locking down the slug you will hear the optics groaning a bit from butting up against the inside of the holder... this is by far your best design yet tim!

DACOTA
06-10-2007, 07:32 PM
Oh yeah I totally agree,the best and like jj said it wont come out, mine are nice and tight.Oh and JJ,props on the tutorial man, great work and an ingenius design. :D

vortextwist
06-10-2007, 07:37 PM
if your worried just put some glue on it or drill and tap a hole, put a set screw in it. if there's enough room

LAN-ED-TUL
06-12-2007, 05:10 PM
i think lan's worried about vibrations slowly unscrewing it.

i'd like to know that one too tim :D


yeah, that was pretty much my concern, that it would loosen up whilst dueling, float the led, and magic smoke time.

xwingband
06-12-2007, 06:35 PM
Camera was a real pain to me but I'm going to edit all the pics now and write the Obi tutorial.

Novastar
06-12-2007, 11:34 PM
BAD***!!!!

Way to go X to the Z!

And Tim, wow, that really is rock & roll sweet. Man how much easier could a conversion get?

Now, if only I really wanted an Obi hilt... I guess maybe someday I'll care. Although I bought an Ultra Obi conversion about 8 months ago as a gift for an old friend.

But serious, that is really cool. Wow.

tobu
06-13-2007, 07:30 AM
WONDERFUL!!! :D

And anyone have idea of the wiring to install a K2 (need resistor, relay ... or other)? :?

Thanks! :D

Psiberian
06-13-2007, 08:21 AM
Tobu,

It is the same as installing the Lux III to do it very basic
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3
I followed that with my vader to get my K2 running.


More complicated is with a relay that has caused a stutter in the sound for some people. read this thread for info on that and a schematic for wiring it up by Erv.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2249&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=15

Lord Maul
06-13-2007, 02:45 PM
looks good X!

one typo though


Now this is how the insies will look outside of the hilt.

Novastar
06-13-2007, 03:26 PM
Big deal. We get the idea. I think most would agree that typos are only a giant deal if you:

spell "Resistor"..... "rapunzel"...

or...

spell "Potentiometer".... "Porkins"...

:)

Otherwise, if I splle msot ayntihng irnroecrlcty... yuo wlil gte teh gneaerl ieda... ;)

Lord Maul
06-13-2007, 03:28 PM
true in most cases, but it is the "official" tutorial for the store, so you want it to look perfect :wink:

tobu
06-19-2007, 08:49 PM
Hi all :)

the tim's Obi kit arrived today,
and I installed it in my lightsaber.
It was very easy ( I followed the xwing's tutorial ).

:D

now I have some question (perhaps because I'm a newbie): :(

1) Do I have to keep the plastic ring in the emitter, or must I remove it? :?
2) To put the blade retection screw, must I make a hole both in the emitter and in the aluminium blade holder (the last one is a part of tim's kit)? :?
3) I glued the MR shock sensor in the back of the heatsink , but it seems to gather the movement but not the contact. Where have I to put the sensor? :?

thank you :D

xwingband
06-19-2007, 09:31 PM
That plastic ring should be shaved to fit. The holder doesn't fit in the emitter all the way so cutting that ring to fit stops it from moving at the top.

On #2... Yes, put the blade holding screw through the holder and emitter. The higher the better is best for holding the blade.

I am not sure on clash sensor placement... I too noticed that after it was done that the clash sensor didn't detect very well. I used some heavy duty double sided tape and attached it to the left overs of the cone shaped plastic...

The guts are a little more free floating than the other sabers so that just may be it.

Novastar
06-20-2007, 09:10 PM
Clash sensors (of any kind, whether in an FX or in Erv's board, etc.) are best placed in a "non-central" place in the hilt... either very high or very low (if possible).

Torque!

:) Think about it. Makes sense.