Obi Conversion w/ custom heatsink

[xwingband]

These aren't the best pictures in the world, but enough to get you going. I'm not going to highlight the wiring it's the same as the Anakin and Vader. I used a Royal Blue K2 (positive from battery pack to let it suck the amperage it wants :wink:).

To start:
http://www.incomsabers.com/images/obi%20001.jpg

The emitter unscrews. A strap wrench or something like a mouse pad to give grip will help you get it off. There is a pin in the threading, tap that out.

http://www.incomsabers.com/images/obi%20002.jpg

Pry under the edges of the gold activation box. Then unscrew the two shown screws.

http://www.incomsabers.com/images/obi%20003.jpg

Now the activation box will come off. You'll need to cut the switch wires off now. Push them inside the body.

Now the insides are ready to be pushed out... and I mean pushed! They have a sleeve in there that it's sole purpose is to make it hard to come out.

http://www.incomsabers.com/images/obi%20004.jpg

Punch the larger pin out all the way. The smaller one is really easy. It only goes in maybe 1/8", then flip it and get the other little pin on the backside.

Now it pops apart easily. You should see everything you need...

http://www.incomsabers.com/images/obi%20005.jpg

Now I removed the conical section of the guts to get access to the back. I dremeled the insides a bit to fit the custom heatsink. Then where the little pins were before I put 8-32 set screws to hold the heatsink. With the wires and screws it pretty danged solid.

I placed the optics in the upper sleeve. I used a bit of tape to space it. Now with everthing done with the Luxeon I rewelded it all with Weld-on 16. I even welded the upper sleeve which wasn't welded before.

From there it was a reversal. I slid it back in. Resoldered the switch and it was done!

http://www.incomsabers.com/images/obi%20006.jpg

The last thing was I tapped for a 10-32 1/2" socket head screw as my blade holding screw.

Lighted room w/flash:
http://www.incomsabers.com/images/obi%20008.jpg

Dark no flash:
http://www.incomsabers.com/images/obi%20009.jpg

[Ravage179]

thank you! thank you! thank you!

i just got my obiwan this weekend and have been waiting for some pics.

thank you!!!! :D :D :D

[Ravage179]

just two short questions

1 - could you post a rough pic of how you wired the k2 to the battery
2 - is it any brighter than a 3 watt rb?

[xwingband]

It's simple...

I took the red wire from the three pins and snipped it. That is where I soldered the normal blue clash, purple and positive LED wire together. So that's five wires there...

Yes, I'd say it's brighter. Not "OMG" level of difference but it's noticable to me.

[Ravage179]

perfect, thanks!

[Lord Maul]

hay X, what blade are you using?
looks kinda like the dual tube...

great work :D

[xwingband]

Nope, it's the stock MR. I can't really get any other blade in there right now. I didn't want to dremel the sleeve that thin. It looks much better with another blade, but the MR isn't too shabby.

Speaking of, I'm taking it easy before I come back here full-time. On my list as soon as Tim gets the new blade sizes is to make an improved dual-tube. The original one I have isn't too great construction wise.

[Strydur]

Obi wan kits should be here this week and they use the heatsink2

[xwingband]

Cool!

I shouldn't have to do much to add it. I was just fiddling with it myself and figured a simple metal sleeve like the one for the 1.25" holder would work.

[Strydur]

Its close to that yes. But it has the notch in the side etc..

[tobu]

Now the insides are ready to be pushed out... and I mean pushed! They have a sleeve in there that it's sole purpose is to make it hard to come out.

Excuse me,
in what sense I must to push the insides: :?

from the blade holder to the pommel (from above to down),

or from the pommel to the blade holder (from down to above)?
http://images.barnesandnoble.com/images/11880000/11888775.gif

thanks :D

[Lord Maul]

you push the blade into the hilt i believe. that's how it is on the luke rotj at least

[Er Dan Gill]

When I dismantled mine I pushed the blade out the bottom of the hilt.

[tobu]

Thanks at everyone :D

I did it (from the bottom) :)

(special thanks to xwingband that answered my pm, because i was unable to post here :D )

may I use a Royal Blue k2 (instead of a Lux3) to convert the saber with the MR original battery pack? (or will it seem less bright?) :?

[Lord Maul]

it will be brighter. a K2 driven at the same juice as a 3 watter of the same color, will be brighter.

believe it or not

[xwingband]

I put a III next to it. The III was driver driven so I know it was good.

The difference was minimal. In retrospect I don't think I'd have bothered.

[tobu]

hi,
I have completely gotten off the sword.
:D
Among a few days it will arrive to me the Tim's kit. :D

Now, being a newbie, :(
I hope that someone of good heart, will publish a tutorial to reassemble I pass it step by step (preferably with photo).

Have taken a k2, and, excuse me, I don't have doesn't even conceive wich wires to settle! :shock:

[SilverClone]

How do you change the color after it was already converted? Do you put a new luxeon star in with the color you chose?

[vortextwist]

How do you change the color after it was already converted? Do you put a new luxeon star in with the color you chose?

yup.

[xwingband]

Yes, being that it means resoldering the switch everytime in addition to the rest of disassembly... no one would switch it as a "quick change" type of thing.

[SilverClone]

could you put a 5w star in if you want?

[ti-el_terall]

Not using stock sound board or battery pack.

[SilverClone]

I saw a pic of 5w green in a mr luke hilt with mr sound.


p.s. After the switch top was resolderd on how do you get it off again

[xwingband]

Yeah... the Luke ROTJ can pull it off with modding because it has extra batteries. It's not simple though.

[SilverClone]

oh ok. Is there a way for the obi to get lux5 because how can you put more batteries in it theres no room.

[xwingband]

You'd have to gut it and try to refit. It'd be a super tough jo to do with an MR board since it doesn't like high voltages. With upgrade board it'd be easier...

I'm really hesitant to say it's possible. With the 9V and tap for 4.5V trick I'm not sure where you'd fit the board...

[Lord Maul]

you can. you need to completely throw away the MR plastic housings, put in Li Ions, a 5 watt relay, and the conversion kit to do it though.

not worth the trouble if you ask me

[SilverClone]

What about the k2 i heard they were dimmer in mr's because it takes higher voltage. But the chart says it takes .05 less voltage.

[xwingband]

K2's are just fine in MR conversions... they just aren't being maxed out compared to others. I think the next step is Rebels... they do much more with the lower amperage and still kick out a lot of light.

[SilverClone]

Ummm... I finaly figured out how to get the guts out, and I DON'T HAVE A SODERING IRON!!!!!Or a hot glue gun! :x :cry: :evil: :!:

[Hasid Lafre]

Theres a list around here somewhere that states what you need for any kind of saber building weather it be a conversion or a compleat custom.

[SilverClone]

ok nvm my dad found the soldering iron! :D