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View Full Version : New idea for in-blade LED



Barmic Rin
04-25-2007, 09:44 AM
I work for these guys. I was hired on my customer service skills, not electronic knowledge, that's why i've asked quite afew dumb questions on various threads.
Just wondering what people thought about using something like this as a change to luxeons.
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Search.aspx?criteria=n91cx&source=15&SD=Y
THey've literally just updated the site with these, so should add more info over the next few days.
http://www.maplin.co.uk/images/Full/n91cx.jpg
From my understanding, this is basically like Hyperdynes blades.
I was going to give it ago, see how it turns out lighting wise, durability wise etc.
I figure if it passes all the tests, may make a couple of these.
Anyone already tried similar themselves?

Ryma Mara
04-25-2007, 12:14 PM
could be intresting. let us know how it works out

Novastar
04-25-2007, 12:43 PM
I agree that all innovation is good... just remember that when it comes to dueling with a blade, you are always hard-pressed to escape the physics of the blade itself...

The polytubes BEND and FLEX--this is also why they are so strong. If they were completely rigid--they would crack. As they say, the tree that bends in the wind--literally... just a physics thing.

It is true that more innovation may help to lessen the burden of force the blade LEDs have to handle... but physics will always be there, beating on the electronics... :(

Barmic Rin
04-26-2007, 03:39 AM
Well, since it comes on a flexible reel, I think it should stand up to a decent amount of punishment.
Will use off-cut from Erv tube to house it, basically making a 'lightdagger', then putting it through the paces.
Will update when I test it. May take afew days, as the reel is yet to arrive.

Shinobi
04-26-2007, 09:43 AM
Well, since it comes on a flexible reel, I think it should stand up to a decent amount of punishment.
Will use off-cut from Erv tube to house it, basically making a 'lightdagger', then putting it through the paces.
Will update when I test it. May take afew days, as the reel is yet to arrive.

Nice one Barmic, I spend far too much time and money in that damn shop of yours!

I just saw these on the site today and was instantly thinking, that if they come on a reel then they will certainly cope with the flexing of the tube as that rarely gets close to bending in a arc as tight as the roll.

Wether they will stand up to the impact of being smacked into the side of the blade, and how evenly they light, will remain to be seen.

As they are only small SMD LEDS they won't have much weight behind them and then are very low profile so should absorb the shock well.

They dont look uber bright from the pics on the maplin site and they are 12v so you wouldn't be able to drive them using any of the boards out there at the moment, you'll need to have a think about how you are going to power it.

I know i'm going to be getting some but that will be for a PC case mod, a PSU supplies 12v conveniently.

Barmic Rin
04-26-2007, 09:52 AM
Where you from, may be able to sort discount if you're local..
I'll cobble something together as a tester, then go from there.


Update: we will be getting more colours, so i'll keep you all posted with results.
Bl, Gr, Rd, Yl, Wh, RGB.

37H4N
04-26-2007, 03:18 PM
I hope this turns out good. I like LED but it sometimes bothers me that the light fades a bit towards the tip (even with the mirrored tip). So if this works then that will be the end to that problem. The solidity of an EL blade with the durability of an LED!

xwingband
04-26-2007, 04:05 PM
with the durability of an LED!

Read the thread duder. Nope...

Novastar
04-26-2007, 07:17 PM
I hope this turns out good. I like LED but it sometimes bothers me that the light fades a bit towards the tip (even with the mirrored tip). So if this works then that will be the end to that problem. The solidity of an EL blade with the durability of an LED!I can EASILY say that my new Plecter board with a K2 on 7.4v (effective 8v overall) and an "ultrablade"... does not have nearly ANY uneven-ness. Not hardly a SPECK of it.

Granted, this is mainly because of good diffusion and Erv's 1.3A driving, Ryu.

Corbin's blade film is excellent for the light "plume" near the emitter, but loses overall brightness up near the top. It's cool though--and we all love the "coring" effect.

Tim's blade film is excellent in that it is simple, effective, and a better overall brightness. Easy to change out too.

Ultra's blade film is VERY good in overall brightness, a bit heavier (not by much), but diffuses away most of the "light plume" nearer to the emitter. It is a bit tough to manipulate when trying to remove/change blade length if you're not careful though.

So... when thinking about brightness and the light not being even overall... it's just a matter of diffusion.

There is still MUCH that can come about via diffusion. This is a technology that is worth "upgrading" for all things LED saber ("emitter"-style).

Even MR/Hyper style sabers need light diffusion. It is just the nature of light.

Tenric Starkindler
04-26-2007, 07:48 PM
I am, of course, mostly ignorant about the blades and diffusion mediums.
I was wondering though if it were possible to have a diffusion film that was partially mirrored on the inside? or perhaps a secondary insert that was?
Could not the addition of such a film help to even out the blade brightness all along it's length.

Ryma Mara
04-26-2007, 11:57 PM
on my saber I dont have this unevenness of light you all talk about.

Novastar
04-27-2007, 02:57 PM
I am, of course, mostly ignorant about the blades and diffusion mediums.
I was wondering though if it were possible to have a diffusion film that was partially mirrored on the inside? or perhaps a secondary insert that was?
Could not the addition of such a film help to even out the blade brightness all along it's length.My thoughts are--try it and find out. :)

A lot of research has gone into diffusion film, and certainly no one way is always better than another.

However, there ARE things that are ineffective. You simply will have to try stuff out, or look into new methods.

I'm looking into one right now, but it may not actually make much of a difference. We'll see.

Barmic Rin
04-27-2007, 07:24 PM
Well, since i'm cutting afew inches off of an Erv blade I picked up (the rest is going on a junksaber i'm cobbling together with that 'amber' LED I picked up) i'll also have afew inches of diffuser film free to mess around with. Will keep updating as I go, when I get a chance.
Also, was going to test a vellum sheet for miroring back some of the light inside the tube & film to see if that helps.

Any idea how to stick chamois-like leather effectively to Aluminium?
This 'Junksaber' is going to be wrapped in it & I don't want it to snag when duelling.

Novastar
04-28-2007, 08:04 PM
To be honest, I have been trying to avoid leather grips and go for that "spray on" kind of stuff.

Not only does it stay on really well, but it is great for grip, adds to the overall look... and keeps the outside diameter lower.

My guess is if you're planning to glue rubber to the steel/aluminum, you'd need to use the same stuff that MR would use for the "T"-grip junk on the Vader/Ani sabers. I've no idea what it is. Every glue/epoxy *I* try for rubber to steel/alum... fails miserably. Same with gluing tips... :!: grrr....