Neopixels no longer work...

[poconosjon@aol.com]

This is my first build and I thought I had it all done, but now I have an issue. I have a CFX board, 144x2 neopixels with the Panasonic 7.4v lithium-ion battery sold here on TCSS. Everything was working fine until I edited the Config file to put a value on the qon and qoff parameters to try to increase the speed that my blade lit and powered off as it was slow. The config file that was sent with the board did not have these values so I added them. After that about 10 of the leds on 1 side of the board lit. I tried removing the settings, restoring from a backup and even downloading a whole new set, formatting the card and copying back the whole set of fonts putting only the 144 on the ledstrip parameter and now I get absolutely no lights. I have tried a firmware update as well in hopes that it might help. I checked the voltage on both sides and at the bottom and top of the strip I get 7.4v on both sides so it does not appear to be a connection problem. I am at a loss as to what to look for next... Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks!

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

The CFX is normally set to run with a 3.7V battery. If you used any of the 7.4V from the store, they don’t put out anywhere near enough amperage to run 2 Neopixel strips.

[poconosjon@aol.com]

Then why did they work I initially for a couple of days? If they never worked, I could accept that answer... But the fact that they worked tells me otherwise...

[null]

hey poconosjon@aol.com have you RTFM for the CFX? The board is not necessarily limited to the 3.7v; p.g. 22 of the CFX manual says the max voltage the board will accept is 9v so the board should be fine.

This is the pack you used correct https://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Panasonic-74v-Li-ion-3400mAh-18650-Battery-Pack-P1171.aspx? CFX manual p.g. 121 (talking about battery requirements) suggest a fully driven RGB draws at least 5000mAh; and 10,000mAh with White flash on clash. These batteries are only 3400mAh.

I'm no CFX expert; just trying to help with pertinent info from the manual.

Stupid question (but I have to ask) have you tried re-charging the battery pack?

- Steve

[poconosjon@aol.com]

Yes that is the battery I am using... I did read the manual, lol sounded like my electronics teacher from DeVry years ago...�� I understand that the battery seems underpowered, just still confused as to why it worked the first 20 times I turned it off and back on.. It was only when I changed the qon/qoff setting that it went sideways. I am charging it now and I have resoldered anything that seemed sketchy to make sure. Even replaced the wires on the neopixel strips and resoldered the pcb... I'll keep you posted...

[poconosjon@aol.com]

Ok so after charging for a while, same result. Let's go with the theory of an underpowered battery, which one would you suggest? I am trying to find out the specs of this battery but I am having no luck. Is there any other way I can test the LEDs to make sure they still work?

[null]

Hey

This one from the store should be good. https://www.thecustomsabershop.com/DM-Sony-Li-Ion-18650-37V-15A-3120mAh-PCB-Protected-Rechargeable-Battery-P1559.aspx. I thought I read somewhere online of someone using a 26650 "Big-Boy" too but that seems crazy overkill... I leave that for someone else to chime in on.

The one you have now doesn't seem to have a max amperage rating listed in the store.

I did find this thread discussing a similar issue someone else was having. http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?22809-Neopixel-Blade-S18500P-Battery

Let us know how it all turns out.

[poconosjon@aol.com]

I'm gonna order the battery you suggested, but how can I test the led strips to make sure they are still good?

[null]

Hi

I checked the voltage on both sides and at the bottom and top of the strip I get 7.4v on both sides so it does not appear to be a connection problem
If you tested the strips and you still get the 7.4v on both sides then the strips are still good.


how can I test the led strips to make sure they are still good? Do you have a bench test power supply? If you apply 5 volts @ 10amps it should light up. Barring that, I think the only way to properly test is wait until you have suitable battery... unfortunately.

- Steve

[poconosjon@aol.com]

Steve,

Thank you for all your help, I reallyappreciate it. Unfortunately I don't have a bench supply... I will have to wait until I get the new battery to test...

[bobunobu]

I am also a new builder. I had a similar problem with my CFx, but I found out that the bladepower parameter was set to 0 by default. Once I changed that to 100, the blade lit up. Might be worth a shot to check.

- Bob

[jbkuma]

If you have an old computer ATX supply you can use the 5v on that, or any AC-DC supply that can output 5V.

I'm not sure why you chose to run this at 7.4v but there is a good chance you fried the LEDs. Despite the 5V rating, the LEDs don't really like being driven at full brightness even at that voltage, they get very hot and I have burned out strips while trying to test various parameters even at 5v.

[Strydur]

hey poconosjon@aol.com have you RTFM for the CFX? The board is not necessarily limited to the 3.7v; p.g. 22 of the CFX manual says the max voltage the board will accept is 9v so the board should be fine.

This is the pack you used correct https://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Panasonic-74v-Li-ion-3400mAh-18650-Battery-Pack-P1171.aspx? CFX manual p.g. 121 (talking about battery requirements) suggest a fully driven RGB draws at least 5000mAh; and 10,000mAh with White flash on clash. These batteries are only 3400mAh.

I'm no CFX expert; just trying to help with pertinent info from the manual.

Stupid question (but I have to ask) have you tried re-charging the battery pack?

- Steve

Just wanted to chime in here to correct this statement. Batteries have ratings for how long they will last (mAh) and max output amperage. What the CFX manual is stating is not how much mAh you need but how much amperage the battery must be able to put out. Most batteries have a max amperage draw of around 4A which is not enough for NP which can draw up to 10A which is why we sell the 15A batteries.

[poconosjon@aol.com]

Steve,

Didn't want you to think I abandoned this conversation. I am in the middle of building a bench power supply so I can properly test the components before buying any more parts. However I am considering a 26650 "big boy" instead of the 18650. I am pasting the specs below, is the 15A something to worry about being too much?
PRODUCT DETAILS

KeepPower*26650 5200mAh High Discharge Flat Top

Specifications:
Nominal Capacity: 5200 mAh*
Nominal Voltage: 3.7V
Discharge End Voltage: 2.5V
*Max Continuous Discharging Current: 15A
Max Pulse Discharging Current: 30A

Thanks again for your input.
Jon

[poconosjon@aol.com]

"I am also a new builder. I had a similar problem with my CFx, but I found out that the bladepower parameter was set to 0 by default. Once I changed that to 100, the blade lit up. Might be worth a shot to check."

Bob,
I will definitely check this... Thanks!

[poconosjon@aol.com]

Just wanted to chime in here to correct this statement. Batteries have ratings for how long they will last (mAh) and max output amperage. What the CFX manual is stating is not how much mAh you need but how much amperage the battery must be able to put out. Most batteries have a max amperage draw of around 4A which is not enough for NP which can draw up to 10A which is why we sell the 15A batteries.

Tim,
Thanks for the response, I just wish the 7.4 I bought had the specs on the page. No big deal, I take it as lesson learned :) As soon as you get the batteries in stock, as well as a couple other things I will place my order...

Thanks,
Jon

[null]

Hi Jon

Yes, I agree the shop could have clearer info on certain products - to be fair I think we are all learning the important details of the CFX and Pixel blades as we go (thats not a dig against Tim & the Shop or Plecter labs). It’s a whole different ball game compared to the original in-hilt LEDs and scavenged Hasbro boards... ;)

The battery you spec’d should be fine; the voltage is comparable to the TCSS ones but you’ll get more run time. One thing to keep in mind is the physical dimension of the battery. I think the 26650 run about the size of a “C” cell alkaline; i.e. 1” ~ 1 1/8”. Just keep that in mind when you are designing the saber and chassis.

- Steve

[poconosjon@aol.com]

"I am also a new builder. I had a similar problem with my CFx, but I found out that the bladepower parameter was set to 0 by default. Once I changed that to 100, the blade lit up. Might be worth a shot to check."

Bob,
I will definitely check this... Thanks!

Bob,
I checked the config.txt file and nowhere in the file did it have the blade power parameter. Is it in that file or a different one?

Thanks again,
Jon

[Strydur]

Everything changes over time.. When we added most batteries there where no Neopixel concerns. Yes we could go back and update the descriptions but that takes time..

[poconosjon@aol.com]

Everything changes over time.. When we added most batteries there where no Neopixel concerns. Yes we could go back and update the descriptions but that takes time..

Tim,

I understand and I was not digging at you. Just stating that I wish I had know and did some more research before buying the wrong battery is all I meant. Hopefully you will have the items in stock soon so I can continue my build.

Thanks,
Jon

[JamoUp]

It is a bit unclear which batteries work best with neopixel without doing some research. It would be cool if the correct ones were cross listed in the store under the neopixel section, like the resistors and the screws are.

[bobunobu]

Bob,
I checked the config.txt file and nowhere in the file did it have the blade power parameter. Is it in that file or a different one?

Thanks again,
Jon

Yes, it is in the config.txt file. For me, it was just above the ledstrip parameter. One of the symptoms was, if I turned on the saber but before hitting the ignition switch, I hit the aux switch, the blade would light up in Power Level Indicator mode. So I new the neopixels worked, but the ignition switch would not turn the blade on. My version is "CrystalFocusX-v10.004D".

Hope this helps,

Bob

[poconosjon@aol.com]

Yes, it is in the config.txt file. For me, it was just above the ledstrip parameter. One of the symptoms was, if I turned on the saber but before hitting the ignition switch, I hit the aux switch, the blade would light up in Power Level Indicator mode. So I new the neopixels worked, but the ignition switch would not turn the blade on. My version is "CrystalFocusX-v10.004D".

Hope this helps,

Bob

Bob,
Thanks for the response, I will add the line and test. I will let you know.

Thanks,
Jon

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

You have to know what version of firmware you have on your card before you just go randomly adding parameters.

[poconosjon@aol.com]

Bob,
Thanks for the response, I will add the line and test. I will let you know.

Thanks,
Jon

Bob,

Just another quick look showed that line did exist on an older backup of my config.txt file. I have added it and hope to test this weekend, even with my underpowered battery to see if I get anything...

Thanks again,
Jon

[poconosjon@aol.com]

Bob,

Just another quick look showed that line did exist on an older backup of my config.txt file. I have added it and hope to test this weekend, even with my underpowered battery to see if I get anything...

Thanks again,
Jon

Bob,

Just a quick update.. I hooked it up to the current battery, with the line back in the file and still no lights. I even let the battery charge for a few hours. New bigger 26650 battery will be here Monday and after letting it charge I will test and let you know.

Jon

[null]

Hey Jon

Did you get a chance to hook that new battery up? Curious to see how it worked for you.

- Steve

[poconosjon@aol.com]

Hey Jon

Did you get a chance to hook that new battery up? Curious to see how it worked for you.

- Steve

Battery being delivered today... I cannot wait :)

[poconosjon@aol.com]

Battery being delivered today... I cannot wait :)

Ok, so battery delivered... Hooked up to cfx and tested, still no lights... I am beginning to wonder if I fried the strips... I get voltage going to the Pixel strips, tested at 3.56V. My charger wont be here until Monday, where I will charge the battery and test 1 more time when I am sure the output current will be sufficient to run everything. The battery I am using is an Obtronic 26650 battery with the below specs...

Cell Capacity: 5500mAhCell Type: 26650Dimensions: 26.5 mm x 70 mm (+/- 0.9mm)Full charge: 4.2VRecommended charging current: 1A - 3.5A CC/CV (Battery can be charged with current lower than 1A, but charging time will take much longer)Nominal voltage: 3.7VCut-off: 2.5VMax. Constant Current Discharge 15A*

Jon

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Did you check to make sure the battery is fully charged first?

[null]

Awww bummer. Man; you’re having a real time with this aren’t you? Sorry for all your setbacks (for what it’s worth) I know how frustrating it can be.

I’ll be watching this page for updates.

- Steve

[poconosjon@aol.com]

Did you check to make sure the battery is fully charged first?

I will on Monday when the charger arrives... That is my last hope before I get another set of pixel strips.

[poconosjon@aol.com]

Awww bummer. Man; you’re having a real time with this aren’t you? Sorry for all your setbacks (for what it’s worth) I know how frustrating it can be.

I’ll be watching this page for updates.

- Steve

Thanks Steve, it is frustrating for sure. But it is all a learning experience.

Jon

[Tom Tilmon]

I will on Monday when the charger arrives... That is my last hope before I get another set of pixel strips.

I highly suggest either a cheap neopixel controller (they're 5 bucks) or a used NBIV/Prism as a test rig for your strips. You can rig it up so your strips can plug into so you can test their functionality before you assemble the blades. Before you give up on your current strips, try cutting out the first pixel on each strip, to see if you can get either one of them functioning. Did you trim the strips? Some people trim 5050 strips to make them narrower, but on some 5050 strips, trimming can be fatal. Check each strip independently on a controller or other board for functionality, then once both strips are working independently, wire them together put them in your diffusion of choice, then test them again. Then once those tests pass, assemble the blade. Blade building can be frustrating.

My Prism test rig is in this video:


https://youtu.be/DecQBtbbS5Y

Tom

[poconosjon@aol.com]

I highly suggest either a cheap neopixel controller (they're 5 bucks) or a used NBIV/Prism as a test rig for your strips. You can rig it up so your strips can plug into so you can test their functionality before you assemble the blades. Before you give up on your current strips, try cutting out the first pixel on each strip, to see if you can get either one of them functioning. Did you trim the strips? Some people trim 5050 strips to make them narrower, but on some 5050 strips, trimming can be fatal. Check each strip independently on a controller or other board for functionality, then once both strips are working independently, wire them together put them in your diffusion of choice, then test them again. Then once those tests pass, assemble the blade. Blade building can be frustrating.

My Prism test rig is in this video:


https://youtu.be/DecQBtbbS5Y

Tom

Tom,

Thank you for the response... When looking at your video, I remembered that I own a Raspberry Pi which is currently being used as a DVR for a different project. I am going to use that to test the strips... I was so focused on the battery that I didn't stop to think about testing the strips themselves until now... Once I get the charger on Monday and can charge the battery, I will be able to test the strips properly... I will keep you all posted.

Thanks again,
Jon

[poconosjon@aol.com]

Another thought occurred to me as I was doing more research... What gauge wire should I be using to power the board and strips? I was looking and for up to 11 amps of current, it recommends 20awg. I am going to beef up the Wires because I think I am using either 22 or 24awg but I have to verify. I know I am not using 20awg though.

Thoughts?
Jon

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

22 gauge is fine.

[poconosjon@aol.com]

Ok so here is the big update... I tested the 2 strips using a raspberry pi and test code I downloaded. On 1 strip the 1st 8 pixels light up and go through the test. The 2nd strip I get nothing. So it looks like I may have bad pixels in my strip. I also checked to see what guage wire I am using g and it looks like 24awg for the connections on the CFX board and a mix of 22 and 24 for the switches and connections from the hilt side adapter to the board and power. I am going to replace all of the wire with 22awg and buy 2 new strips as I dont really feel like trying to separate them to test and find the bad pixels... I will test the new ones prior to doing anything this time, now that I have a good method to do so. Thanks to everyone for their help and I will post another update when I get the new set and test...

Thanks again
Jon

[Tom Tilmon]

Ok so here is the big update... I tested the 2 strips using a raspberry pi and test code I downloaded. On 1 strip the 1st 8 pixels light up and go through the test. The 2nd strip I get nothing. So it looks like I may have bad pixels in my strip. I also checked to see what guage wire I am using g and it looks like 24awg for the connections on the CFX board and a mix of 22 and 24 for the switches and connections from the hilt side adapter to the board and power. I am going to replace all of the wire with 22awg and buy 2 new strips as I dont really feel like trying to separate them to test and find the bad pixels... I will test the new ones prior to doing anything this time, now that I have a good method to do so. Thanks to everyone for their help and I will post another update when I get the new set and test...

Thanks again
Jon

The only components you need heavy gauge wire (22) is for battery, RCP, Cutoffs, and any Neopixel feed (positive and negative). YOu can use smaller gauge wire 28 or 30 for your tactile switches, accents, neopixel data, and speaker. No need for large mess where you don't need it. Too many large wires can create problems. So all your power supply wires from battery to neopixels and battery to rcp and any cutoff switch that may carry the full amp load. Tactile switches and speakers won't be carrying that full amp load that the blade will see. Neopixel strips can be finicky, on the strip that isn't working, try cutting out the first pixel, re-attach your test board to the new pads, and test the strip again. On your other strip that only lights up 8 pixels, first of all make sure your raspberry pi is sending a signal for the number of pixels in your strip (that will be in your strip length defines in your sketch), and if those are correct, then cut out the first pixel that isn't working, attach your wires to the new pads, and test the remaining strip. YOu can attach the cutoff bit to the tip of the blade after you determine that the strips function. You know at least the first 8j pixels are ok, now to check the rest.

TOm

[poconosjon@aol.com]

The only components you need heavy gauge wire (22) is for battery, RCP, Cutoffs, and any Neopixel feed (positive and negative). YOu can use smaller gauge wire 28 or 30 for your tactile switches, accents, neopixel data, and speaker. No need for large mess where you don't need it. Too many large wires can create problems. So all your power supply wires from battery to neopixels and battery to rcp and any cutoff switch that may carry the full amp load. Tactile switches and speakers won't be carrying that full amp load that the blade will see. Neopixel strips can be finicky, on the strip that isn't working, try cutting out the first pixel, re-attach your test board to the new pads, and test the strip again. On your other strip that only lights up 8 pixels, first of all make sure your raspberry pi is sending a signal for the number of pixels in your strip (that will be in your strip length defines in your sketch), and if those are correct, then cut out the first pixel that isn't working, attach your wires to the new pads, and test the remaining strip. YOu can attach the cutoff bit to the tip of the blade after you determine that the strips function. You know at least the first 8j pixels are ok, now to check the rest.

TOm

Tom,

Thank you for clarifying the wiring requirements. I was going to leave the switches alone because I have them hooked up with the 2 wire quick connectors they sell here at TCSS. https://www.thecustomsabershop.com/2-Wire-quick-connector-P38.aspx?ItemId=564475 I actually am going to re-wire the recharge port and other power connections with 20awg to make sure the current is more than sufficient. The space difference between 22 and 20 is negligible so I should be OK. As far as "fixing/testing the strips" I will when I have some time to pull them apart from each other as they were fully assembled in the blade when it was working in the very beginning. For now I have ordered and received 2 new strips which I will test thoroughly before assembling again... The code should be correct in the PI but I will double check, and with the new strips this will also tell me if it is working properly.

Thanks again for the help,
Jon

[poconosjon@aol.com]

Ok so big update 2... I finished swapping all the wiring for 20awg. Tested the new strips and verified they work. Soldered them to the PCB and hooked everything up... No lights. I tested for voltage along the strips and they read 4V so I know the electrical connections are good. Is it possible that the cfx board is not sending the data signal to turn them on? How can I check?

Thanks
Jon

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Post the main config file of your CFX

[poconosjon@aol.com]

Post the main config file of your CFX

Thank you for the response, as requested..

//CF-X Configuration
debug=0
logport=0
vol=100
menuvol=100
menugest=0
beep=40
muteb=0
muteoff=0
sleep=50000
deep=0
qkignite=0
orient=0
valsnd=0
switch=2
offp=0
offd=200
onp=0
ond=20
swing_flow=360
clash_flow=300
spin_flow=400
smooth_flow=1000
lockup=300
loop=1
shuffle=2
plilh=3400,4200
omnisabers=2000
bladepower=10
ledstrip=144
auxstrip=0
tridentstrip=0
accentstrip=0
dragstrip=20
strippower=1111
ls1_timings=40,80,24,1,3
ls2_timings=40,80,24,1,3

## Motion Settings
gate=50
smooth_gate=50
hswing=450
hhybrid=420
hslash=210
hforce=350
hfclash=600
hclash=850
hstab=500,0,0
hspin=750
htwist=350
hdrag=0,90,0
htemp=40
spectrum_mode=0
spectrum_axis=0
field=10,10,10


[profile=0]
wakeup=1
randc=0
blastp=0
random=2
pom=0
pof=0
poi=0
magic=0
saberlock=0
blastm=0
randb=2
shmrd=150
shmrp=12
shmrr=24
shmr%=60,99
focd=200
focp=20
focr=28
foc%=60,99
focl=1
focb=1
focf1=1
focf2=1
focf3=0
fade=0
flks=6
flkd=25
tridentflk=0
flkon=1
flkoff=1
pulsed=0
pulsel=0
on_fade=1
off_fade=1
unstable=0
style_pon=0
style_poff=2
style_lockup=1
style_drag=0
style_blaster=2
style_flicker=1
style_clash=1
style_stab=1
over_pon=1
over_poff=1
mapping_unstable=1
mapping_lockup=0
mapping_drag=0
mapping_flicker=0
mapping_color=0
pos_lockup=40
size_lockup=30
hcool=70
lcool=0
sparkf=120
sparkd=10
drift=1
mapb=100
mapc=70
refreshfx=12
omnisabers=0
sbolt=8,20
dbolt=40,810
lbolt=15,30
fbolt=1
rbolt=10
qbolt=30

[dannv]

I think,m the last time I saw this problem here, the solution was to change strippower=1111 to strippower=0000

[poconosjon@aol.com]

I think,m the last time I saw this problem here, the solution was to change strippower=1111 to strippower=0000

Danny,

I will certainly try that... The other thing I noticed was the bladepower=10 which is 10%. I am going to put that to 100 to make sure they get the right amount of power. I'll keep you posted.

Thanks,
Jon

[poconosjon@aol.com]

Danny,

I will certainly try that... The other thing I noticed was the bladepower=10 which is 10%. I am going to put that to 100 to make sure they get the right amount of power. I'll keep you posted.

Thanks,
Jon

Danny,

With the strippower=0000 and the bladepower=100 I still get no lights. :(

Jon

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Danny,

With the strippower=0000 and the bladepower=100 I still get no lights. :(

Jon

strippower=1111 is for Neopixel strips.

Also, post your color profiles.

The config file you posted to me looks ok, though I think 144 is probably a bit much for your blade. Next step is to review your wiring. Good, clear close ups of your board will be necessary. Focus on the 4 Output pads on the CFX the junctions where your joining them.

[poconosjon@aol.com]

strippower=1111 is for Neopixel strips.

Also, post your color profiles.

The config file you posted to me looks ok, though I think 144 is probably a bit much for your blade. Next step is to review your wiring. Good, clear close ups of your board will be necessary. Focus on the 4 Output pads on the CFX the junctions where your joining them.

Knight,

I have the full strips connected so 144 is correct. I have put the strippower setting back to 1111. I will take pictures and post them shortly. I really do appreciate all the help everyone has given me.

Thanks,
Jon

[poconosjon@aol.com]

strippower=1111 is for Neopixel strips.

Also, post your color profiles.

The config file you posted to me looks ok, though I think 144 is probably a bit much for your blade. Next step is to review your wiring. Good, clear close ups of your board will be necessary. Focus on the 4 Output pads on the CFX the junctions where your joining them.

Here are the pictures... Again, I cannot thank you enough!

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/9818/RsJtZZ.jpg
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/2834/m8Sq03.jpg
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/5659/RpwgC8.jpg
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img921/4695/RnOw5I.jpg

Jon

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

How about pictures (wider would be fine) of tHe connections from the 4 (-) wires down to the two, and the two(+) wires into the one that’s attached to the CFX?

[poconosjon@aol.com]

How about pictures (wider would be fine) of tHe connections from the 4 (-) wires down to the two, and the two(+) wires into the one that’s attached to the CFX?

Knight,
How are these?

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/6438/TdXGlo.jpg
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/5217/DmaTnB.jpg
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/5007/SZLbRC.jpg
https://imageshack.com/i/pl8PBZBKj

Jon

[null]

Hey poconosjon@aol.com

It is a bit hard to see from the photos (not slamming you in any way), but just as a reference I’ve taken a screen-cap and marked the board pinouts as per the CFX manual p.g. 118. You probably do have it wired correctly but I just wanted to clarify. I find it way easier to use matched colours for the wiring as it makes tracing feeds and lines visually way easier.

I see you have quite a few quick connectors wired in; is there any chance you have one connected backwards or anything?

https://i.imgur.com/POSmHBv.jpg

- Steve

[poconosjon@aol.com]

Steve,

I have edited this picture to try and explain... The red JST connectors are my ground wires. The green wire in the 3 wire connector is data and the red and black I. The 3 wire connector is positive. I am getting proper voltage up the strips, but it is like they are not getting the signal to turn on.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/150x100q90/923/xIZG7P.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pnxIZG7Pj)

Jon

[dannv]

The connectors give another possible point of failure. Have you used a meter to check continuity on each side?

[poconosjon@aol.com]

The connectors give another possible point of failure. Have you used a meter to check continuity on each side?
Danny,

I assumed since I am seeing voltage readings on the strips themselves, the power connections are good. I will check the data line to verify that I have continuity. Is there a way I can test for a signal from the board on the data line when I ignite the saber?

Thanks,
Jon

[null]

Hey

Did you have a chance to post your colour profile for us to look at?

- Steve

[poconosjon@aol.com]

Hey

Did you have a chance to post your colour profile for us to look at?

- Steve

I will in a little. Just got home from work/shopping... Need to cleanse!

[null]

Just got home from work/shopping... Need to cleanse!
May the Force be with you! :p

-Steve

[poconosjon@aol.com]

Hey

Did you have a chance to post your colour profile for us to look at?

- Steve

Steve,

Here is the contents of the colors.txt file.
[color=0]
color=1023,0,0,0
fcolor=1023,1023,1023,0
bcolor=1023,1023,1023,0
lcolor=1023,1023,1023,0
xcolor=1023,0,0,0
mcolor=1000
tridentm=0000

[color=1]
color=1023,255,0,0
fcolor=1023,1023,1023,0
bcolor=1023,1023,1023,0
lcolor=1023,1023,1023,0
xcolor=1023,255,0,0
mcolor=1100
tridentm=0000

[color=2]
color=1023,660,0,0
fcolor=1023,1023,1023,0
bcolor=1023,1023,1023,0
lcolor=1023,1023,1023,0
xcolor=1023,660,0,0
mcolor=1100
tridentm=0000

[color=3]
color=340,1023,0,0
fcolor=1023,1023,1023,0
bcolor=1023,1023,1023,0
lcolor=1023,1023,1023,0
xcolor=40,1023,0,0
mcolor=1100
tridentm=0000

[color=4]
color=145,1023,0,0
fcolor=1023,1023,1023,0
bcolor=1023,1023,1023,0
lcolor=1023,1023,1023,0
xcolor=145,1023,0,0
mcolor=1100
tridentm=0000

[color=5]
color=0,1023,0,0
fcolor=1023,1023,1023,0
bcolor=1023,1023,1023,0
lcolor=1023,1023,1023,0
xcolor=0,1023,0,0
mcolor=0100
tridentm=0000

[color=6]
color=0,1023,340,0
fcolor=1023,1023,1023,0
bcolor=1023,1023,1023,0
lcolor=1023,1023,1023,0
xcolor=0,1023,340,0
mcolor=0110
tridentm=0000

[color=7]
color=0,1023,635,0
fcolor=1023,1023,1023,0
bcolor=1023,1023,1023,0
lcolor=1023,1023,1023,0
xcolor=0,1023,635,0
mcolor=0110
tridentm=0000

[color=8]
color=0,1023,1023,0
fcolor=1023,1023,1023,0
bcolor=1023,1023,1023,0
lcolor=1023,1023,1023,0
xcolor=0,1023,1023,0
mcolor=0110
tridentm=0000

[color=9]
color=0,0,1023,0
fcolor=1023,1023,1023,0
bcolor=1023,1023,1023,0
lcolor=1023,1023,1023,0
xcolor=0,0,1023,0
mcolor=0010
tridentm=0000

[color=10]
color=115,0,1023,0
fcolor=1023,1023,1023,0
bcolor=1023,1023,1023,0
lcolor=1023,1023,1023,0
xcolor=115,0,1023,0
mcolor=1010
tridentm=0000

[color=11]
color=355,0,1023,0
fcolor=1023,1023,1023,0
bcolor=1023,1023,1023,0
lcolor=1023,1023,1023,0
xcolor=355,0,1023,0
mcolor=1010
tridentm=0000

[color=12]
color=1023,0,1023,0
fcolor=1023,1023,1023,0
bcolor=1023,1023,1023,0
lcolor=1023,1023,1023,0
xcolor=1023,0,1023,0
mcolor=1010
tridentm=0000

[color=13]
color=1023,0,50,0
fcolor=1023,1023,1023,0
bcolor=1023,1023,1023,0
lcolor=1023,1023,1023,0
xcolor=1023,0,50,0
mcolor=1010
tridentm=0000

Thanks again,
Jon

[poconosjon@aol.com]

Danny,

I assumed since I am seeing voltage readings on the strips themselves, the power connections are good. I will check the data line to verify that I have continuity. Is there a way I can test for a signal from the board on the data line when I ignite the saber?

Thanks,
Jon

Danny,

I did check continuity through the green wire and I get the connection all the way to the blade side PCB... I also check the voltage on the Data line with the blade in the on state and I get .79V. Not sure what I am supposed to read... Also the card seems to work otherwise, I can scroll through and select different Fonts that come with the card, but none of them light the blade...

Jon

[null]

Hey poconosjon@aol.com

This is all very strange, colour profile look good and you are getting voltage...

You don’t happen to have an old high power LED and some resistors kicking around do you; I’m thinking you could set aside the NeoPixel idea for the moment and wire in a LED just to see if that works or if it is an issue with the board itself. It would be an awfully big coincidence if there was a problem with new pixel strips but it is a possibility.

Like you said I don’t think its a connection issue or I’d recommend hardwiring everything together (eliminate the quick connects & the PCB pixel connector) and see if that makes any difference.

Barring that you could reach out to ‘Erv over on FXSabers and see if he can help out.

- Steve

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Do you have a resistor on the data line?

[poconosjon@aol.com]

Hey poconosjon@aol.com

This is all very strange, colour profile look good and you are getting voltage...

You don’t happen to have an old high power LED and some resistors kicking around do you; I’m thinking you could set aside the NeoPixel idea for the moment and wire in a LED just to see if that works or if it is an issue with the board itself. It would be an awfully big coincidence if there was a problem with new pixel strips but it is a possibility.

Like you said I don’t think its a connection issue or I’d recommend hardwiring everything together (eliminate the quick connects & the PCB pixel connector) and see if that makes any difference.

Barring that you could reach out to ‘Erv over on FXSabers and see if he can help out.

- Steve

Steve,

Unfortunately I do not have any high powered LEDs... Before I unsolder and disconnect all my wiring I will try to test them with the Raspberry PI again using the PCB connections. Then if they do work, I know it is not the connections. If not then it is something with the quick disconnects... I will try to reach Erv and see if he can maybe shed some light on this... Thanks again to you Steve and everyone that has been so helpful.

Thanks,
Jon

[erv]

7.4v to the strips probaby killed them, and eventually your onboard L1 to L4 drivers. Not sure why you'd apply 7.4V to 5V strips.
I'd test the invididual drivers with 5mm led, you don't need HB leds for this, anything that lights up can be used within the current range. You can also test your LS1 output using a small piece of strip or a single pixel.

[poconosjon@aol.com]

7.4v to the strips probaby killed them, and eventually your onboard L1 to L4 drivers. Not sure why you'd apply 7.4V to 5V strips.
I'd test the invididual drivers with 5mm led, you don't need HB leds for this, anything that lights up can be used within the current range. You can also test your LS1 output using a small piece of strip or a single pixel.

Erv,

Thank you so much for the response. I do have regular LEDs I can use to test and I can use the 8 pixels from the old strip that work to test the LS1... I will post an update later.

Thanks,
Jon

[poconosjon@aol.com]

All,

Ok so for a change of pace a positive test result... I tested the strips again with the PI and they worked :) Now using a breadboard to eliminate the PCBs from the equation I successfully tested the strips using the CFX and breadboard as seen in the pictures below... So the really good news is that my CFX is working properly :) So now I need to re-work the PCBs to see if there is an issue there possibly...

Sorry for the mess!

https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/P22vRf.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/poP22vRfj)
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/923/ZODL01.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/pnZODL01j)

[poconosjon@aol.com]

All,

Another quick reply, re-worked(removed and re-tinned all the pads)on the blade side PCB and re-soldered the leads from the pixels and it still works! I am now going to re-build the blade and if it still works, I will post pictures of the PVC build because it will be complete!

I want to give a sincere thank you to all of you who have helped me from the beginning to end of this journey! If you were local I would buy you a beer!

Jon

[null]

Thats awesome news! Great job & looking forward to seeing the complete saber (are you gonna enter it in the 2020 building competition???).


If you were local I would buy you a beer! As great as that sounds; all we want is for you to “pay it forward”. Its been a learning experience for you (and me too) and that knowledge is sure to help out someone else in the future - help out if you hear of someone having similar issues. We are a Community. NeoPixel and CFX seem to be the way of the future!

I’m glad to hear it finally worked out for you!

- Steve

[poconosjon@aol.com]

Thats awesome news! Great job & looking forward to seeing the complete saber (are you gonna enter it in the 2020 building competition???).

As great as that sounds; all we want is for you to “pay it forward”. Its been a learning experience for you (and me too) and that knowledge is sure to help out someone else in the future - help out if you hear of someone having similar issues. We are a Community. NeoPixel and CFX seem to be the way of the future!

I’m glad to hear it finally worked out for you!

- Steve
Steve,

I will enter both the PVC and Aluminum builds in the competition... I was not even aware that this was a thing :). How would I go about this? As for paying it forward, I will absolutely help anyone I can as I have received plenty of help from everyone. I am trying to finish this tonight, we will see how that goes...

Jon

[null]

Alright! It’s on like Donkey Kong!

Here’s the thread from FJK about the contest.

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?23122-2020-TCSS-Saber-Building-Contest

See you ‘round the forum.

-Steve

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

I am strict about showing things off ahead of time, I have disqualified entrants in the past for that violation, and I AM EVERYWHERE. So I will see it if it gets posted ANYWHERE.

[poconosjon@aol.com]

I am strict about showing things off ahead of time, I have disqualified entrants in the past for that violation, and I AM EVERYWHERE. So I will see it if it gets posted ANYWHERE.

Knight,

Thanks for the warning... I guess the forums will have to wait until it is posted to see it...

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Knight,

Thanks for the warning... I guess the forums will have to wait until it is posted to see it...

I mean anywhere in cyberspace...here, TRA, FaceBook and FX-Sabers. ;)

Also, I’m known as FJK.

[null]

I AM EVERYWHERE. So I will see it if it gets posted ANYWHERE.

https://i.imgur.com/KlaSbot.jpg

First thing that popped into my head. Sorry FJK!

- Steve

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

First thing that popped into my head. Sorry FJK!

- Steve

If you’re who I believe you are, I remember a bit about your history as well. ;)

[poconosjon@aol.com]

I mean anywhere in cyberspace...here, TRA, FaceBook and FX-Sabers. ;)

Also, I’m known as FJK.

FJK,

Understood and then let me rephrase... The world will have to wait until it is posted to see it. :)

JKC

[poconosjon@aol.com]

Steve,

Unfortunately I do not have any high powered LEDs... Before I unsolder and disconnect all my wiring I will try to test them with the Raspberry PI again using the PCB connections. Then if they do work, I know it is not the connections. If not then it is something with the quick disconnects... I will try to reach Erv and see if he can maybe shed some light on this... Thanks again to you Steve and everyone that has been so helpful.

Thanks,
Jon

Steve,

Just thought you might want to know... I finally got around to testing the bad strips and I only lost 1 pixel on each strip so I have another set of 143 pixels :) These will be going into my next blade which was to be shorter anyway so it all worked out.

Again, thanks for all the help.
Jon

[null]

Steve,

Just thought you might want to know... I finally got around to testing the bad strips and I only lost 1 pixel on each strip so I have another set of 143 pixels :) These will be going into my next blade which was to be shorter anyway so it all worked out.

Again, thanks for all the help.
Jon

Nice. Glad to hear it; they are expensive enough so it would be a pain in the butt if they were wasted.

- Steve

[Tom Tilmon]

Steve,

Just thought you might want to know... I finally got around to testing the bad strips and I only lost 1 pixel on each strip so I have another set of 143 pixels :) These will be going into my next blade which was to be shorter anyway so it all worked out.

Again, thanks for all the help.
Jon

Awesome.