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TheMohawkNinja
02-23-2019, 07:19 PM
Hello,

So, the wiring layout, issue, and troubleshooting steps that have been taken can be found on a Reddit thread here: https://www.reddit.com/r/lightsabers/comments/aqkm7s/switch_nonfunctional_and_speaker_just_making_a/

Seeing as it appears the wiring is solid, I am starting to suspect that the board itself may have been fried due to previously bridged solder pads and incorrect wiring, however I do not know what would need to be checked with a multimeter to confirm this.

Thank you,

Forgetful Jedi Knight
02-23-2019, 08:27 PM
If the LED immediately comes on when you pull the kill key, you have a ground or a short somewhere.

TheMohawkNinja
02-23-2019, 08:36 PM
If the LED immediately comes on when you pull the kill key, you have a ground or a short somewhere.

Right, but I've already confirmed that no bridge exists on the pads, and I haven't added solder to any other part of the board, so I am unsure of what traces and/or chip pins need tested to determine where the short is located.

Forgetful Jedi Knight
02-23-2019, 09:00 PM
Take some good, close up, high wuality pictures of your whole setup, and post them, and we’ll look them over for you.

TheMohawkNinja
02-23-2019, 09:46 PM
Take some good, close up, high wuality pictures of your whole setup, and post them, and we’ll look them over for you.

Here's a few to start out with: https://imgur.com/a/ueOYKBJ

Let me know if there are any other pics you want.

Thank you,

Forgetful Jedi Knight
02-23-2019, 10:04 PM
Well, the first issue I see is that you have a latching switch. The NB can only be used with a momentary switch.

TheMohawkNinja
02-24-2019, 07:48 AM
Well, the first issue I see is that you have a latching switch. The NB can only be used with a momentary switch.

It is a momentary switch.

Forgetful Jedi Knight
02-24-2019, 10:47 AM
It is a momentary switch.

Please take a close of up the pins (bottom of the switch), because I believe you are incorrect. Also, what you have described would be consistent with using a latching switch.

TheMohawkNinja
02-24-2019, 11:16 AM
Please take a close of up the pins (bottom of the switch), because I believe you are incorrect. Also, what you have described would be consistent with using a latching switch.

https://imgur.com/a/wQRk3zO

I would like to note that (A) I have a known latching switch from the same manufacturer, and it clearly functions mechanically differently (the known latching switch physically stays down when pressed until pressed a second time, whereas this switch always returns to an unpressed position when pressure is released), (B) I have confirmed the momentary functionality by means of probing the NO1 and C pins on the switch while in resistance mode, and I only receive a reading while the button is pressed down, and (C) the pinout on the known latching switch and this switch are identical, so I am not sure if the pinout will tell you anything in this particular case.

It may be worth noting that the switch is the only non-TCSS part, in-case that helps :)

Forgetful Jedi Knight
02-24-2019, 02:05 PM
When you have something that is normal open or normally closed, that’s basically a latching switch. I would try replacing it with a real momentary switch and see what happens.

TheMohawkNinja
02-24-2019, 02:27 PM
When you have something that is normal open or normally closed, that’s basically a latching switch. I would try replacing it with a real momentary switch and see what happens.

What do you mean by a "real momentary switch"? I thought a momentary switch is defined as a switch which (if in normally open state) will close only while the switch is held down, or (if in normally open state) will open only while the switch is held down (hence the term "momentary", as it only activates/deactivates in the moment(s) you hold it down).

Likewise, it's my understanding that a latching switch (if in normally open state) stays closed when pressed, or (if in normally closed state) stays open when pressed (hence the term "latching", as you are closing or opening a "latch", thus toggling the state until pressed again).

EDIT: I desoldered the NO1 and C pins, and the result is unchanged, so it doesn't appear to be the switch, as even when I connect the wires directly, there is no apparent change in the board state.

Forgetful Jedi Knight
02-24-2019, 04:56 PM
Connect the wired directly to what? Each other? Try powering the board without those wires connected to anything, and then touch them together.

TheMohawkNinja
02-24-2019, 04:59 PM
Connect the wired directly to what? Each other? Try powering the board without those wires connected to anything, and then touch them together.

Yes, each other. I powered on the board and had those wires touch each other when they were only soldered on the board pads and nothing else. Touching the wires together did not appear to affect the board state at all.

Jay-gon Jinn
02-25-2019, 04:28 PM
In this picture you have your speaker wired to the battery input pads: https://i.imgur.com/5kMPFm8.jpg Putting the battery supply through the speaker pads is probably not good for the board.

TheMohawkNinja
02-25-2019, 05:07 PM
In this picture you have your speaker wired to the battery input pads: https://i.imgur.com/5kMPFm8.jpg Putting the battery supply through the speaker pads is probably not good for the board.

I don't know how, but upon closer inspection, I have in-fact wired the board in reverse.

I have now corrected the issue, and upon pressing the activation switch, I get no sound, the switch LED turns off, and the blade LED turns on and quickly gets brighter before turning off again.

I think my mis-wiring maaaaay have caused a weeeee bit of damage now that you've pointed out my wiring flaw.

Strydur
02-25-2019, 05:22 PM
I kind of skimmed the info but just wanted to mention that momentary switches can be NO and NC.. you want a NO one for a NB.

Forgetful Jedi Knight
02-25-2019, 06:32 PM
I’ll have Zook get in touch with you. He handles board repairs here in the US.

TheMohawkNinja
02-25-2019, 06:47 PM
I’ll have Zook get in touch with you. He handles board repairs here in the US.

Awesome, I wouldn't of even thought that would have been economically feasible.

TheMohawkNinja
02-28-2019, 05:01 PM
I’ll have Zook get in touch with you. He handles board repairs here in the US.

So, have you talked to this "Zook" person yet by chance? I have yet to get a PM or anything.

Forgetful Jedi Knight
02-28-2019, 05:30 PM
So, have you talked to this "Zook" person yet by chance? I have yet to get a PM or anything.

I sent him a message. I’ll send him another one.