MPS Insert recharge port vs speaker mount

[sprockwell1207]

Is it possible to use MPS Insert with recharge port...
https://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Brass-MPS-Insert-style-6-P788.aspx

with a speaker mount that has a lip to lock it in place between the pommel and female section?
https://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MHSv1-speaker-mount-Style-5-For-28mm-Speakers-P887.aspx

how do you pass the wires by the speaker?

Alternatively, how do you protect the speaker and secure the chassis when using a 3d printed design?

And not an elaborate 3d chassis either, just a regular one with plenty of room to pass the wires.

[jbkuma]

You can use one of the stock speaker holders if you cut or file out a channel for the wires.

If you are 3D printing a chassis, there aren't many limits to what you can do, so the question doesn't have a short answer. You can design it to be modular in a way that will screw, glue, or mate together in a stack, it could be two pieces that clamp together, it could be one single piece, or it could be a combination of any of those. You can also make custom parts to mix and match with more traditional chassis systems like the rod and discs offered here.

This chassis includes a speaker holder with an illuminated "crystal" on the other side of the speaker for a build I'll be sharing soon. It includes some pretty simple shapes and a bit of metal tubing. (it's actually cobbled together from scraps leftover from old projects, which is sort of the theme of this saber) The crystal and black parts are glued together, set screws hold the central core portion to either side, and you can see the screw holes in the metal part. The right side is the blade connector for a pixel blade.
https://i.imgur.com/Pnkn0Pw.png

[k6gad]

I agree with Jbkuma, you can cut a groove on the outside of the speaker holder, or on the inside, to pass the wires around the speaker. Be careful about the amount of wire you have attached to your CP, and that there is enough room between your insert and the speaker to have the CP and wires in there. I typically cut the connectors on the CP shorter just to make sure. When I screw the pommel on I put a tool in the grate of the insert so it doesn't move as I spin the pommel. Or you could reverse spin the wires so when you tighten the pommel the wires "un-twist"...

[k6gad]

You can use one of the stock speaker holders if you cut or file out a channel for the wires.

If you are 3D printing a chassis, there aren't many limits to what you can do, so the question doesn't have a short answer. You can design it to be modular in a way that will screw, glue, or mate together in a stack, it could be two pieces that clamp together, it could be one single piece, or it could be a combination of any of those. You can also make custom parts to mix and match with more traditional chassis systems like the rod and discs offered here.

This chassis includes a speaker holder with an illuminated "crystal" on the other side of the speaker for a build I'll be sharing soon. It includes some pretty simple shapes and a bit of metal tubing. (it's actually cobbled together from scraps leftover from old projects, which is sort of the theme of this saber) The crystal and black parts are glued together, set screws hold the central core portion to either side, and you can see the screw holes in the metal part. The right side is the blade connector for a pixel blade.
https://i.imgur.com/Pnkn0Pw.png

love this chassis btw....

[sprockwell1207]

I noticed the pommel insert is the only thing that will rotate so I didn't really worry about it so long as I planned on the pommel being the break point.

I want to use JST connectors and make everything come apart nicely but I struggle without all the parts in hand.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Try not to use JSTs in the pommel, it may affect your sound quality. If you use a pair of pliers or something to hold the insert stable while twisting the pommel onto the hilt.

[Ridire Fíréan]

Try not to use JSTs in the pommel, it may affect your sound quality.

Hey @Forgetful Jedi Knight ! Can you elaborate on why not? Is it because of the physical properties of the electricity passing through the JST connector produces poorer sound than a hardwired speaker or because the body of the JST might obstruct airflow/sound waves?

[k6gad]

Hey @Forgetful Jedi Knight ! Can you elaborate on why not? Is it because of the physical properties of the electricity passing through the JST connector produces poorer sound than a hardwired speaker or because the body of the JST might obstruct airflow/sound waves?
I think it is the latter..in addition the JST connectors have angular edges and if they bounce around in there they could damage your speaker. Also they might get lose because of vibration.....

[jbkuma]

https://i.imgur.com/bMsuOZV.png
https://i.imgur.com/pl7Zp2B.png
https://i.imgur.com/Z7R4M9c.png

Here is a design for the pommel cap to be retained with the chassis.

[sprockwell1207]

thanks for the ideas guys
here is what we came up with today
copper tubing to secure the chassis and protect the speaker
17403

[jbkuma]

Looks great! Thank you for sharing your results.

[sprockwell1207]

It does work well to secure the chassis but the first time i tried to thread my hilt together I cut into my wire covers with the pommel threading.

i'm going to try some of this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BIBQE1S/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A38Z015AJ7I755&psc=1

Might be a valuable addition to the store, I'm going to have to order another recharge port because mine shorted out at some point trying to recover from this.

[sprockwell1207]

Tinned Copper Metal Braided Sleeving did the trick for me

https://i.imgur.com/UOOXiSr.jpg

also the pommel insert being able to rotate was essential for my build