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View Full Version : Led-Strip Blade with 4 Strips, Diffusion, comparison, general review



erazer
09-30-2018, 06:44 AM
Hey guys,
some weeks are over now since I started my blade-building projects. It was lots of fun, but of course partly horribly frustrating to some degree too, I tried alot of diffusion materials, different PVC types and my goal was nothing less than building the brightest LED-Strip Blade ever seen.
So of course I was into going for 3 strips at least until I found a shop that had an acrylic fourangled rod 8mm where i could install 4 sk 6812 strips onto.
After some fails I really accomplished to get it running with the tcss v2 11pins connector and a 30 amps unprotected 3120mah 18650.
There were two seconds I was so proud to watch it lighting up but after that i was instantly disappointed as ..ing hell..
No way to diffuse it properly without heavy corncobbing to a degree where I had to get so much more diffusing material that it was much dimmer than any of my 2 strip blades so that the whole project was dead for me.
The point is: even with the same diffusion material of my 2 strip-blades, which are really sophisticated near to perfection meanwhile I can say proudly, that 4-strip blade with that bad corncobbing wasnt even much brighter to the human eye.
So, if you wanna build a stupid bright blade I can tell u ALL: forget about more strips or going for adafruits instead of chinese ones... ITīS ALL ABOUT DIFFUSING YOUR 2 STRIPS.
Original adafruits wont be brighter than cheap ones, as long as they work at all..just more reliable;)
Forget the W2182bs, these 11 or 12 mms will always give u some kind of shadow at least in comparison to the 7.5 mm sk 6812s.

In terms of diffusion I can tell you all, and I canīt stress enough: TCSS did a FCKN AWESOME JOB on these plastic diffusors and foam-diffuser-tubes. I tried so many different things, of course all mixed into different variations, from toilet paper to clear package tape, christmas-gift clear-foil, cellophane, tcss corbin film, 1mm package foam, 2mm package foam, TCSS foam, heatshrinks, special LED-enhancing fckn expensive scotch tapes.
The closest you can get to a blade without shadowzones and without corncobbing and still as bright as possible is to glue a strip of doublesided 6mm clear tape onto both sides of the doublestrips, straight over the 5mm lightemitting sections, then you glue a selfcut 6mm strip package foam onto these. Then you wrap that into 4 to 5 layers of clear package tape and put this into the foam diffuser from the TCSS shop, try to get a snug-fit, if not go for more layers of tape.

After that itīs up to you: you can either wrap that foam now into 4 layers of clear package tape again for a snug-fit and put it into a transwhite thickwalled blade, so you dont need the plastic diffuser and you will have a perfectly even lit transwhite duelready blade. Yes, trust the transwhites, they do a nice diffuserjob there. But not the thinwalleds unfortunately.
Or you put the foam diffuser into the plastic diffuser and get it into a photon or clear blade and you are good to go without shadow zones or any corncobbing.

At last I have to say: I am a bit disappointed by these photonic tubes. Itīs not only that I donīt like that light-in-a-tube-look, I clearly love these transwhite thickwalled blades most, they give that perfectly even-lit look and make the blade look fuller. Also you can drill out a white tip with a hand-dremel so that itīs lit with the last pixel in it and it looks the same as the blade, lit or unlit.
Itīs just... that photon doesnīt make it so much brighter as many postulate it. It has a nice color on blue only, a very unique green, but with green and blue together it wonīt be so much brighter at all, so donīt be too disappointed if you go for the photonic-strip blade. Thereīs a great difference in having more lumen on a blade and seeing it with human eyes.
Not to be able to have all colours going that a prizm 5.1 offers you is not worth that marginal clue of more brightness to that photon-blade, sorry to say. >overhyped:(

Sorry, I donīt have photos or videos on this but I can guarantee you that it wonīt help anyhow, a blade on camera and in real is just too much difference to tell anyone which one is brighter or more evenly diffused, you simply cant recognize it if itīs about the last fine corrections for perfection.

I hope I could help some of you with enthusiastic projects on blade-builds, may the force and brightness be with You

erazer
09-30-2018, 12:51 PM
well, for demonstration purpose and that you see yourself what I mean I decided to give you some images of my two best blades. First one is the photon blade, first ignition with blue only, second illuminated one with blue and green both together, the brightest blade I built so far. But as I told you.. itīs marginal.
Second blade is my favourite one, its a transwhite with a white drilled out tip and two pixels lit in the tip. First illuminated one is in bright surrounding, second one in darkness. The photo is made with a green colour only, for comparison with the photon blade and because green will always be brightest for human eyes. There is not that much difference in brightness, at least not that much that I hoped for the photonblade, the transwhite looks much fuller and of course if not lit it looks not like that hollow-tube-optic thing. Just my favourite

https://ibb.co/b130de
https://ibb.co/dG0kBz
http://ibb.co/hyJBjK (https://ibb.co/hyJBjK)
http://ibb.co/dTjvBz (https://ibb.co/dTjvBz)
http://ibb.co/b1frjK (https://ibb.co/b1frjK)
https://ibb.co/gZ96Je

comparison to inhilt tricree blue-blue-white
https://ibb.co/dDpFDe

erazer
09-30-2018, 02:48 PM
uhm well in my opinion i came to a point where I canīt see anything more that would help to get blades any brighter or better diffused in a similar constellation with neopixel strips. If anyone made similar experiences or has found better ways of diffusion or for more brightness so far I would love to discuss it in this thread of course

Forgetful Jedi Knight
09-30-2018, 10:12 PM
Well, to point out obvious things that many elders have been pointing out for ages...

1. More isn’t always better. It applies to Quads versus Tri’s and it also applies to LED strips.

2. Photo Blades are work best with BLUE LIGHT, not Cyan, not Royal Blue, not Indigo, straight blue. Anything else will generate interesting results, but is likely to leave many “disappointed”.

cvsickle
10-03-2018, 04:14 AM
Well, to point out obvious things that many elders have been pointing out for ages...

1. More isn’t always better. It applies to Quads versus Tri’s and it also applies to LED strips.

2. Photo Blades are work best with BLUE LIGHT, not Cyan, not Royal Blue, not Indigo, straight blue. Anything else will generate interesting results, but is likely to leave many “disappointed”.

1. I'll have to disagree with you on Quads versus Tris. Assuming you have a quad PCB that has four individual dies (rather than under one dome) and your PCB and lens are both machined to fit inside your 1" heat sink, you'll have an RGB saber that can make brighter colors on one side of the spectrum depending on whether your extra die is red, green, or blue. An extra red die will give you brighter reds, oranges, yellows, crimsons, and pinks while an extra blue die will give you brighter blues, cyans, and purples. An extra green die will give you brighter shades of green. In my experience, I've never seen mixing issues with this kind of setup either.

2. Agreed that straight blue is the BEST for Photon blades, but just wanted to say that Royal Blue gets the job done pretty well too.

erazer
10-03-2018, 12:38 PM
I'll have to disagree with you on Quads versus Tris. Assuming you have a quad PCB that has four individual dies (rather than under one dome) and your PCB and lens are both machined to fit inside your 1" heat sink, you'll have an RGB saber that can make brighter colors on one side of the spectrum depending on whether your extra die is red, green, or blue. An extra red die will give you brighter reds, oranges, yellows, crimsons, and pinks while an extra blue die will give you brighter blues, cyans, and purples. An extra green die will give you brighter shades of green. In my experience, I've never seen mixing issues with this kind of setup either.

Well thats definitely sure. But what Forgetful Jedi Knight and I mean is more like what happens from two same-coloured LEDs on two more
Of course a second red will definitely do a good job in enhancing brightness, but the more of them you try to add, the less effect on perceived brightness you will get. Add a third or even a fourth same-coloured die and the results are neglectable.
So hereīs where Forgetful Jedi Knightīs Law of diminishing returns grip, i.e. Meatsweats Stevens Power Law and Weber-Fechner Law. Brightness is not perceived in a linear rise for the human eyes, from a certain point of basis-illumination you will need 10 times more lightpower to perceive it only 30 percent brighter.
Thats what we talk about and it definitely applies for Tri-Cree and Quad-LEDs too..

cvsickle
10-03-2018, 01:03 PM
Sure. Having two LEDs of the same color is a noticeable difference. But if you're trying to have three or four of the same color, that would be marginal.

I guess I was stuck in RGB thinking, so I probably misunderstood what he was saying. I guess some people do still make single color sabers don't they? ;)

Meatsweats
10-03-2018, 01:09 PM
Just to point out. I’ve tested various strips and 5050 is brighter (actual) than 3535 via lux meter testing. Something like green 2k v 3.2k or so. Perceived (based on our other convo) brightness is also noticeable. I do trim my ws2812 to about 9mm and I have no shadowing with the method I use.

erazer
10-03-2018, 01:14 PM
I know itīs a bit brighter but I didnt accomplish to let these side shadows flow out completely into evenness on to a point where I had to put so much material more that it was dimmer than the 3535s.
please tell me your diffusion method. Do you trim it from both sides?

Meatsweats
10-03-2018, 01:26 PM
I trim the strips on each side a mm or two. TCSS clear thin walled tube, TCSS firm diffuser, foam tube, a couple feet of cellophane.

erazer
10-04-2018, 11:05 AM
Built another photonblade today with trimmed ws2812b, about one and a half mm each side, very nice results here, definitely a touch brighter than the 3535s, not mindblowing, but still a noticeable slight touch more. Side shadows nearly completely gone, not as perfect and complete even as the 3535s but even enough to have to look very closely to see the shadowsilhouettes. So I think both ways are very nice and itīs up to oneself if a touch more brightness is oneīs goal or perfect evenness.