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Luke-SkyMarcher
03-30-2007, 05:12 PM
My soundboard is acting weird. When you turn it on, it plays the power up sound over, and over, and over..... and then just stops working. Anyone have any ideas? Has this happened to anyone before, and can it be fixed?
Thanks.

-Luke

vortextwist
03-30-2007, 05:52 PM
my mace did that when I had the k2 led and relay in there, changed it to a 3 watt and was fine. (took out relay also) did you try changing the batteries?

Luke-SkyMarcher
03-30-2007, 06:00 PM
Yup. It doesn't matter whether I have the normal 6v 4 AA battery pack or the rechargeable pack in. I also don't have any LED running off it currently.

vortextwist
03-30-2007, 06:11 PM
hmm. other than maybe a bad batt connection. is everything stock or is things hardwired in?

Luke-SkyMarcher
03-30-2007, 06:18 PM
everthing's stock... except switch and battery pack... are you saying if it's below proper voltage, it might do this?

vortextwist
03-30-2007, 06:20 PM
that is what I heard, when i converted my mace I got it used and the pins were kind of messed up and would do that unless I put an o-ring inbetween the cap and batt pack and didn't do it again.

Luke-SkyMarcher
06-01-2007, 06:53 PM
Well, I've been playing around with this some more. The battery pack I was powering it with was this one: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/pc-876-6-48v-2200mah-rechargeable-battery-pack.aspx
When I tried it with 4 AA batteries instead, it didn't do it nearly so much, but it did keep on interrupting swing and clash sounds. I checked the voltage and it was at 5.95v. (at the moment, I don't have the access to completly fresh batteries)
Now, what I would really like for this saber is to have the internal rechargeable batteries, so I was wondering if either of these two solutions would work.
First off, the LED is a red 3w. I would be running the LED off of the MR board, which is one of the one's tim used to sell. SO...
if I just upped the voltage by getting another NiMh AA battery and putting it in line for a total of 6.3v, would that work, and do you think it would stop the activation sound from interrupting?

OR

Should I just get the 7.2v pack and power it from that? And if I did, I expect I would have to use a risistor to keep from frying anything... What do you think?

vortextwist
06-01-2007, 06:55 PM
i don't think the mr board can take that much, can it?

Luke-SkyMarcher
06-01-2007, 08:01 PM
I expect I would have to use a risistor to keep from frying anything...

Lord Maul
06-01-2007, 10:44 PM
6V is pushing it for a MR. anything above and it will probably let out the magic smoke

resistoring it would work fine luke :wink:

Do-Clo
06-01-2007, 11:22 PM
The MR soundboards will run fine at 6 volts. I would check the switch to see if it is bad even though it is new, I have found switches that don't work properly new out of the package.

Firebird21
06-02-2007, 03:33 AM
I had this same problem and it ended up being a bad solder joint on the switch.

Jay-gon Jinn
06-02-2007, 07:27 AM
My son's vader board started doing the same thing this morning and I changed batteries and it's still doing it, too.

Luke-SkyMarcher
06-02-2007, 11:35 AM
Well, I've tried it at 6.3v and it still does it. I have changed the switch several times, but not the swithc wires; I'll look into that.

Luke-SkyMarcher
06-02-2007, 04:13 PM
Well, I did it and it worked! :D no more of the power up playing over and interrupting the other sounds. I'm afraid somthing else may have happened while I was at it, though. I can't get it to make a swing or clash sound. Anybody know anything about this or has it happened to anybody?

Firebird21
06-02-2007, 04:21 PM
Check the connections to the C/S. Those solder joints don't take kindly to being man-handled... Not that I think you where beating on it, but if you where having trouble installing it and stressing the wires it could have broke. Also, the plug may be loose.


One time I had a break in the wire under the plastic sheath, but the sheath was soldered tightly so it appeared to be a solid connection where as there was a 1mm gap between the wire and the solder joint... Go figure.

Luke-SkyMarcher
06-02-2007, 06:14 PM
One time I had a break in the wire under the plastic sheath, but the sheath was soldered tightly so it appeared to be a solid connection where as there was a 1mm gap between the wire and the solder joint... Go figure.

I'm not quite sure what this means, but I looked at it, and took the connector out, and it all looked fine. Before I resoldered the switch wires, you could hear the clash and swing, they were just interrupted by the power-up. I did have a bit of trouble resoldering the switch wires to the board... would that have anything to do with it?

Luke-SkyMarcher
06-02-2007, 06:16 PM
Oh, and by the way, 4.8v is not underpowering the MR board.

Luke-SkyMarcher
06-02-2007, 07:05 PM
hmm, well that's interesting! I found that there was a connection that wasn't being made after my solder job that had been before. I restored the connection, and the hum and clash work now. But the power-up is doing it's thing again :(

Luke-SkyMarcher
06-02-2007, 07:49 PM
well, I cut the connection, and the power-up problem is still happening. I've tried everything I could think of, but it still keeps on :?

Lord Maul
06-02-2007, 07:52 PM
if you haven't already, try putting an o-ring in the pommel. that way the battery will be pressed harder

Luke-SkyMarcher
06-02-2007, 07:56 PM
???
This is just the standard sound card all by itself that tim used to sell. It's not even inside a saber. It's sitting on my table after having lots of wires resoldered to it to make sure connections were good.

Lord Maul
06-02-2007, 08:02 PM
oh...then my suggestion wouldn't apply...

i'd just triple check that all of your connections are perfect, and that there isn't any damage to the components on the board itself

Luke-SkyMarcher
06-02-2007, 08:09 PM
There's no damage to the components on the board as far as I can see...

vortextwist
06-02-2007, 08:16 PM
make sure there is no scratches across the board anywhere. I made a little scratch on my maul when I was taking it out of the case and had to put a jumper wire in.

Jay-gon Jinn
06-04-2007, 08:52 AM
I got mine to work again by putting fresh batteries in it. I guess if it does it again, I'll consider that my indicator to change batteries. Did you get yours figured out yet, Skymarcher?

Luke-SkyMarcher
06-05-2007, 06:43 PM
make sure there is no scratches across the board anywhere. I made a little scratch on my maul when I was taking it out of the case and had to put a jumper wire in.


I found that there was a connection that wasn't being made after my solder job that had been before.

That's what I was talking about there. After I put the jumper wire in, it started up again.
Now it has started to do somthing else. After restarting several times, the LED will come on and stay on, and there will be no sound. And it stays on after you turn the switch off. The only way to stop it is to take the batteries out. Plug them back in and turn it on - you've got the same thing all over again. :(

vortextwist
06-05-2007, 07:36 PM
sounds like you need to cut your losses and get another.

Jedi-Loreen
06-05-2007, 08:01 PM
sounds like you need to cut your losses and get another.


Yeah, but from where? Tim doesn't have anymore FX boards. He'll have to find one on his own, or wait for one of Ultra's board.

Lord Maul
06-05-2007, 08:05 PM
vortex has two boards for sale i think on fx sabers JLo :wink:
people are trying to get rid of them now

vortextwist
06-05-2007, 08:06 PM
there are people that have some, maybe not lukes', Tiel has one, I have an ani, JJ i think has or can get one. check on fx sabers or force fx forums