First Official Saber Build Ideas!

[Techno375]

Hey guys! I have been following and researching this site for a couple years now and finally found the time and money to build my dream saber! I would love everyone's input and questions. I think I got the wiring right. I think I just forgot to add the positive and negative wire connections between the board and the recharge port. The two wires in the chassis concept going up are for the main led and an accent green inside the choke.

1670516706Parts list.

Chassis discs to match parts.
Green Lux
NBv4
3.7v lithium
Green momentary switch
Recharge port
3.4v micro motor
20A micro PWM
28mm premium speaker
2 "breathing" green 3v LEDs

[Seth Skywalker]

I am not a wiring expert and an still in my learning stage. Not 100 percent sure but I think everything looks in order, the only thing I don’t think will work is using two accent leds. I think it can only support one. Any ways welcome to the forums!:D

[bigkevin61]

I’m guessing a little here, as it looks like you have the 3.3v (18mA max) pad wired to go to the Accent Led, AND to the micro PWM.
With two items on the same circut, and an 18mA max from the pad, you would be splitting the 18mA between the two, which I don’t think would work well for either item.
You can always drive the motor (depending on the power needs) off a circut from the battery (after the Recharge Port).
Speaking of recharge port, what kind will you use?
If from TCSS, they have 3 posts. One a sharred positive (to the board and battery), one dedicated post direct to the board negative, and a third direct to the battery negative. In that wiring configuration, the RC port will cut power to the board when the charger is inserted (isolating the battery on a circut, and NOT charging with any circut to the board).
It doesn’t look like you have the RC port in your diagram wired that way.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

More importantly what is all that going into??

[Techno375]

So all of this is fitting into the main body plus an extension. I'll go back through my wiring and repost the changes. The biggest problem I have right now is the motor is too fast. I'm using a PWM that was intended for vape mods with a 10k pot. I tried to perform a proof of concept, but the motor wouldn't slow down at all. Do I need a different pot? If so, higher or lower resistance? Also it is the TCSS recharge port.

[Techno375]

16712

Here is the updated diagram with the motor being powered by the 3.7v after the recharge port.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

What is the motor even for?

[Techno375]

What is the motor even for?

The Crystal is going to rotate in the chamber if I can figure out the correct way to regulate it.

[jbkuma]

I've seen it done, I look forward to seeing how you pull it off. From what I've seen slower motors tend to be larger motors.

[Techno375]

I've seen it done, I look forward to seeing how you pull it off. From what I've seen slower motors tend to be larger motors.

Yeah but the large motors won't fit and require more voltage than what I already have set up :/ I'm researching the correct potentiometer to attach to my pwm

[bigkevin61]

If you are using a MHS main body + and MHS Extension, how will you even see the rotating chamber?

I’ve bench tested small RadioShack rumble motors, and to slow it down, I added more resistance to the circuit. Just wired in more resistors till there wasn’t enough juice left to let it spin.

You may be over complicating things with a PWM & a POT.

[jbkuma]

Depending on the motor it might not be possible to slow it down enough with just resistors, but I would certainly use that over the pot. Use the POT on the bench then read the value to get your resistor. If space is an issue certainly it makes sense to avoid cramming all of that in there.

[Techno375]

It is very carefully planned out with some custom made chassis disk. It's not going to be a large chamber. Only half an inch total length.