Scratch removal methods

[Seth Skywalker]

I got some scratches on my saber during the shroud work and fitting, and wondering what methods you have for removing scratches from aluminum, and getting it to look pretty much the same as it did from the beginning. I know Mad Cow has already made a video of how he does it, I Just wanted to know what different methods you guys use. Thanks in advance. :)

[Vereous]

If it's small enough (like a burr from my shroud) I like to use 1000 grit wet/dry automotive paper, I prefer it wet with a little water, then I shine it up with the 3000 grit paper (the one that's basically a rough sponge, not really paper).

Conversely... I've also etched and burned and roughed up and weathered a whole saber to hide a single slip from my Dremel.

Weathering a saber is pretty rad. Easier to maintain in my opinion. Shiny sabers show more fingerprints, and I for one can't let a saber sit on the shelf without playing with it. (And I grow tired of shining it everytime I'm done.)

That's my two credits.

[Seth Skywalker]

Thanks Vereous! I prefer " clean" sabers as that is what most of them are in the Star Wars movies. Some sabers do look better weatherd though. And some day I might make a really weathered and beat up lightsaber.

[jbkuma]

Before building my most recent, heavily weathered and grimy saber, I joked that I was polishing it up just so I could rough it up again. Tool marks and scratches don't always match what one would expect from natural damage after all.

https://i.imgur.com/ya2qutAl.jpg
Plan B: The Gentleman

I didn't post it here since it seemed weird posting an entirely scrap build here that didn't use any TCSS sold parts.

[RavenXp]

I'm afraid my only experience removing scratches is a buffing wheel. As for weathering, I've seen people take to whacking the item in question with chains to get realistic scratches. You could also use a 9 volt and a bit of spare wire to arc electricity to get realistic burn marks on the hilt. Eh, just ideas really. I'm sure there are other weathering techniques others here could give they actually have experience with.

[Seth Skywalker]

Before building my most recent, heavily weathered and grimy saber, I joked that I was polishing it up just so I could rough it up again. Tool marks and scratches don't always match what one would expect from natural damage after all.

https://i.imgur.com/ya2qutAl.jpg
Plan B: The Gentleman

I didn't post it here since it seemed weird posting an entirely scrap build here that didn't use any TCSS sold parts.
I saw that one on your website cool looking pistol/blaster!


I'm afraid my only experience removing scratches is a buffing wheel. As for weathering, I've seen people
take to whacking the item in question with chains to get realistic scratches. You could also use a 9 volt and a bit of spare wire to arc electricity to get realistic burn marks on the hilt. Eh, just ideas really. I'm sure there are other weathering techniques others here could give they actually have experience with.
The burn mark idea actually sounds really cool, and I think I will try that on a different saber. But for this one I want it to be as polished and clean as possible.

This'll be my test piece as it already has a lot of scratches, scuff marks, etc
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And I will try removing the scratches from these areas after.
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I wonder why the pictures turned upside down.

[Seth Skywalker]

Alright, I steel wooled the pummel and it definitely shines things up a bit. Now I will try polishing it with the dremmel.

[Seth Skywalker]

Finished using the polishing tool with the dremel, here are the results
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[RavenXp]

Very nice.

[Seth Skywalker]

Hhhmmmm, I don't know if I should try removing scratches on the other areas the finish would be a lot less shiny. What do you guys think should I give it a go? Also do any of you know how to polish it and make it as shiny as new?

Thanks by the way, RavenXP:)

[Greenie]

Automotive chrome polish and a microfibre cloth.

[darth_chasm]

Fine grit sandpaper wet with your tears.

[Seth Skywalker]

Automotive chrome polish and a microfibre cloth.

Thanks Greenie
Wich Brand do you suggest?


Fine grit sandpaper wet with your tears.

Hahahahah:lol: I had to laugh out loud when I read that! Thanks.

[darth_chasm]

:D:razz::twisted:

[Greenie]

Any brand should do. It's polish ;)

[k6gad]

When I get scratches I put the part back on the lathe and start sanding lightly with 220 grit then work up to 1000..1500..etc
Kind of hard to make the part smooth and the scratch disappear if you don’t have a lathe to hold it. Dremel work turns out nicely if you are careful..as you were with the pommel. Another trick is to use a sanding block with very light pressure. The block spreads the force out evenly. One thing that bugs the crap out of me is careless people with clunky rings! Dang I want to slap them! I have started asking them to remove their jewelry when handling a polished saber....LOL

[Seth Skywalker]

Thanks k6gad!
Yeah, you have to look out for people wearing rings, like Frodo and Bilbo:grin:.

How shiny does polish make aluminum? As shiny as new parts from tcss, or is it slightly duller?

[Greenie]

With some extra elbow grease, it can look chrome.

[Seth Skywalker]

Is elbow grease nescecsery, or would just polish by itself make it look chrome?

[Greenie]

Ha.:p Elbow grease comes from your arm. It’s the amount of effort you’re willing to put into polishing.

[Seth Skywalker]

Ha! I'm so stupid! :pThanks Greenie.

[Greenie]

No dude, just young.:) It’s an old fashioned saying/phrase. I’m old :(

[Seth Skywalker]

Wow! :shock: Polish works grrreeaaat! Very shiny! The pics don't do justice.
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Until I was removing scratches from the shroud. I was happily sanding away until I noticed that there seems to be an extra coating, wich I only sanded away at one spot.:(
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What can I do about that? Do I have to make a new shroud?

[Vereous]

You don't have to make a new shroud. All tcss sleeve material has that finish/coating. You just need to carefully sand off the rest of it and repolish. No biggie.

Edit: when I'm grinding off that coating I use a mouse sander with fine sandpaper so it has a nice flat plane and takes off very little metal at once. You don't want to breathe that metal powder, so be safe. A belt sander might work for that too.

Edit#2: I use my mouse sander because I don't have a lathe, but that may be easier because that will preserve the "grain" of the metal, ya know? Nice and uniform spun finish.

Those polished pieces look great. Good luck with your shroud!

[Seth Skywalker]

Whew! That's a relief. Thanks Vereous. Might I ask what grit of sandpaper do you use for that?

[Vereous]

Whew! That's a relief. Thanks Vereous. Might I ask what grit of sandpaper do you use for that?

I'll check and get back to you later tonight!

[Seth Skywalker]

Got a second question you guys. After I polished my saber, I noticed as soon as I touch or handle my saber it leaves marks and finger prints. How can I keep my saber clean and shiny after polishing?

[Silver Serpent]

Applying a clear coat will help, but you're gonna get visible fingerprints on a highly polished saber. No way that I've seen to eliminate that.

[Seth Skywalker]

Oh well, geuse I'll just rub it with a moist microfiber cloth each time after use. Wearing gloves while dueling with my saber should also help, gloves will be part of my costume anyways.:)

Edit: would 400 grit sand paper work? That's the finest I've got.

[bigkevin61]

Applying a clear coat will help, but you're gonna get visible fingerprints on a highly polished saber. No way that I've seen to eliminate that.

A “shelf” saber collects less fingerprints...
��

[Vereous]

Edit: would 400 grit sand paper work? That's the finest I've got.

That should be fine, you'll just have a pretty darn scratched piece at the end. Gotta polish all over again. Honestly, whatever you used when polishing that took off that little bit before would also work, if it was polishing compound on the Dremel it just might take longer. But taking a long time to do a nicer job is probably the best way to go. I weather my sabers a lot so a perfect finish isn't really my forte.

Edit: is that 400 grit paper for wood or metal? You might want to pick up some 1000 grit wetdry. Just to be safe.

[Seth Skywalker]

It's been a while, but after sanding my shroud piece with 400 and1500 grit sand paper, I polished it and here are the results
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Not perfect but overall a shiny and smooth finish. Thanks for all of your help:)

[Vereous]

Looks great!! Everything's shiny, captain.