help with K2 and Force action Hasbro wiring

[darthtaylor62]

ok im pritty much a n00b ive read around but i cant seem to find out how to do this heres what ive got

i have a Green K2 Led powered by a 9v battery then i have the sound board from my Hasbro force action lightsaber they are pretty new so i figure thats why i haven't seen them around, but anyways heres the problem the sounds go to a little metal clip that when touched activate the sound, but the led is wired to a different button. I'm wondering if there is any way to wire the two in one switch? if necessary i can whip up a diagram of the wiring right now.

thanks,
Taylor

[Do-Clo]

A wiring diagram would be helpful

[Jay-gon Jinn]

A few pics might be helpful as well, if you have the capabilities. I take it the metal clip is part of the switch from the Hasbro saber?
Listen to Lord Do-Clo, you should! Master of the K2, he is!

[darthtaylor62]

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l73/taylorfrey22/mywiring.jpg

thats what ive got as of now

[darthtaylor62]

A few pics might be helpful as well, if you have the capabilities. I take it the metal clip is part of the switch from the Hasbro saber?
Listen to Lord Do-Clo, you should! Master of the K2, he is!

yeah the clip is from the Hasbro

[Do-Clo]

This will work and you will only need one switch

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f217/Do-Clo/wiring.jpg

[darthtaylor62]

thanks but is there any way i could do it with just the button and not the hasbro switch? other wise ill give this a try

[Do-Clo]

You can replace the hasbro switch with a monetary switch of any kind.

[darthtaylor62]

are momentary switches the ones you have to hold?

[Jay-gon Jinn]

are momentary switches the ones you have to hold?
Yup. But in this case, you will only tap it once to turn on the board. The board then activates the relay, which supplies the voltage to the K2. This same set-up will work for an MR board, too, won't it Do-Clo?

[Do-Clo]

Yes it will work for a MR board but use a 3 volt relay instead of a 5 volt relay with the MR board and run it at 4.5 volts, you would need to refigure the resister value for the lower supply voltage.

[GFORCE13]

There is a way I am basically using the same setup Corbins Driver Board and the Spring Loaded Sound Board, I added on to an Original Graflex Pushbutton and installed one of Corbins micro Momentary DPDT Switch so it activates each board at the same time while seperating the circuts. PM me if you have any ?'s

[cannibal869]

Hi everyone, sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I've got one of the Force Action Obi-Wan's that I'm trying to hook up to a green K2 or perhaps white Seoul P4.

I've been searching multiple threads, and this is one of the few wiring diagrams that I think looks really elegant and straightforward. Some of the other ones are a little hard to understand sometimes.

Anyway, I had a few questions about the wiring diagram that Do-Clo put up (Thanks for doing that BTW!!!) - this is the one I'm talking about:

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f217/Do-Clo/wiring.jpg

I'm referencing this picture of the actual board itself:

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b54/flyerfye/hasbrobi.jpg

My question is about the red power lead coming from the battery. It looks like the 6V Pos. is spliced to both the board and to the 5V relay. There is also another lead going to the 5V relay - which wire should that be? LED- ?? What do you do with the LED+ lead? Leave it off? Does this allow me to use the board LED+ and LED- for accessory LEDs like in a crystal chamber or something? If not, is there an easy way to do this?

If I understand the theory - Turning the saber/soundboard on sends 6V to close the 5V relay, thereby sending power forward to the K2. Should the resistor be a 1.5 Ohm 5 Watt instead of 2 Ohm? (I'm going by Tim's resistor chart)http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/resistor.aspx

Where do you get a 5V relay? Is it kinda like those relays that sometimes come with car parts? Is this different from a BuckPuck?

edit: Oh I think I found some - will these work? http://www.radioshack.com/search/index.jsp?kwCatId=&kw=5vdc%20relay&origkw=5vdc%20relay&sr=1

Sorry for the newbie questions - I'm attempting to build 2 sabers - one will be a sink tube and the other an MHS LuxV
thanks for any help guys,
Chris

[cannibal869]

bump about which leads to run to the 5V relay? help? please? anyone?

Or is it like both LED+ and LED- go to the relay, then when the saber gets turned on, the relay allows a separate BATT+ 6V lead to then go on to the K2?

Sorry I've never used this type of relay before...

Just as an FYI, I'll do some more experimenting tonight when I get home from work, but so far when I've tried to connect 6V (4AAA) to the pictured Hasbro, it doesn't seem to activate at all... :confused: Am I doing something wrong?

[cannibal869]

OK, I've got all the wiring figured out finally.

Basically, I follow the above circuit diagram.
except I'm using 4.5 V (3AAA batteries) instead of 6V. -- for some reason, the board won't turn on with 6V, so I just went with 4.5 instead.

I bought the 5VDC SPDT relay at Radio Shack (see link above).
The wiring for the relay works as follows:

The LED + and LED- from the hasbro board go to the coil. The coil only requires like 3.5V to activate, and I'm reading about 4V from the hasbro LED leads.

The relay switch can be wired either in normally closed or normally open depending on which pole you connect the wire to. I have it as normally open, which functions the same as if you were just using the stock hasbro LED leads.

So what happens is this: when I use the momentary button to turn on the Hasbro board, it activates the Hasbro LED wires. This in turn closes the relay switch and allows the full 4.5V from the battery to continue on to power the Luxeon (I'm running a modular system now where I can interchange between a Green K2 or White P4).

I've looked on multiple boards about how to do the resistors and calculate the resistance. I wanted to overdrive the two LEDs, so right now I've tested out using a 1 Ohm 10 Watt resistor (the only 1 Ohm resistor I could find at RS) to be used with the Seoul P4 (this is assuming driving voltage of 3.5V and current of 1000mA - the Seoul specifications say that the range for voltage can be from 3.25V to 3.8V if I remember correctly). I'm using a 0.47 Ohm 10 Watt resistor for the K2 (which I think should give around 3.85V and 1320 mA). Actually, the funny thing is how there are multiple resistor calculators on the net and each of them comes up with a slightly different answer each time for the same variables....

Oh well... I hope this helps some of the builders out there. If I get a chance, I'll try to post up a pic of the wiring for the relay which may help some people - it just makes more sense when you actually "see" it. The resistor makes a clicking sound when it activates, which is kinda funky when you hear it underneath the saber activation sound.

[cannibal869]

Hi guys, for those who are interested, this is the wiring diagram that I'm basically using now. Hopefully this will help people understand how the relay works (well, at least seeing this really helped me anyway).

There are many ways to skin a cat or wire up the LEDs. Buckpuck, Corbin's driver, resistor... I didn't want to spend too much money on this one since I already spent a lot on my LuxV MHS saber with US 2.0... so I decided to go the resistor route for this one (which will be in a 1.25" sink tube). To each his own... Good luck to all you other saber builders out there.

[Rb-wan Organus]

This was very helpful... I think? I am using an older board, but the setup appears to be the same except for I am using LUX III with 2.2 Resistor. Would a voltage regulator like this one.... http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062599 ... serve the same purpose? If not what would you recommended Do-Clo?? Oh..by the way your diagram was very helpful even though I am still confused, LOL. Thanks.

[Darth Chuck]

I pretty much have the same setup and wired a Luxeon III red to a hasbro board with 2 AA's. Used a momentary switch, smaller speaker than what came with the toy, and cut off the motion and clash sensors to allow for space. I reworked a 4 AA holder pack to use 2 because when I had the four that was 6 volts and it began to get hot, it worked but I felt the warmth so I redid it to 3 volts which is what the hasbro toys are made for before altering them.

I have also been testing it's power leakage issue that some people have said could happen and it has had the batteries in it non stop, powered off for almost 2 months now. It still works and powers on and powers off just fine with the humming and sounds as good as it did first day I had it running.

oh and I almost forgot, I cut apart two old camera film canisters to make thin tube covers for my board, batteries and speaker so nothing would touch any of the hilt's body. Don't let the magnetic part of your speaker touch anything when it's wired up or it will damage the board.

[sfer1]

If I wanted to use a BuckPuck, this would work, right?

http://i564.photobucket.com/albums/ss85/sfer1_album/ForceActionRelayBuckPuck.jpg

[cardcollector]

I'm really not sure about the wiring but you don't need a buckpuck as a driver if you have a sound board.

[Sairon]

Buck pucks help alot, seeing as hasbro's drive accent leds most of the time.

[sfer1]

I'm really not sure about the wiring but you don't need a buckpuck as a driver if you have a sound board.
I believe the board outputs only 350mA. That's why I want to use a BuckPuck.

I've never used a relay before. Can anyone please tell me if the wiring on my diagram is correct?