First build! Graflex 2.0 (ESB) w/CF9

[Gregatron]

Greetings! This is my very first FX saber build. I’ve done a good number of static props, over the years, but I decided to finally jump into the deep end and build a proper FX saber. East Coast Sabers’ “How to Build a Graflex” tutorial series was both an inspiration and an invaluable learning tool, but those videos feature a Nano Biscotte install, not a Crystal Focus, so I can’t just follow along with that tutorial step-by-step. I chose CF because of its flexibility, its motion sensitivity, and its sound bank capacity. I intend this to be a fairly simple build, though.

Anyway, I acquired a Graflex 2.0 and various parts from WannaWanga, The Graflex Shop, and KR sabers to accurize it. I’ve finished the bulk of the prep work with the inner core, but I got a little overeager, and my first attempt at installing the electronics went wrong, somehow. I had a CF8 board, and soldered it to the TCSS 7.4v 18650 battery, but something went wrong. When I tried to charge the battery, the battery charger light turned green as soon as I plugged it in, with no functionality whatsoever in the board. I’m not sure what went wrong. I also made the stupid mistakes of epoxying the recharge port (which I didn’t realize was designed to screw into place until later) into my Goth3D chassis (Padawan Graflex 2.0 model), and soldering the wires onto the CF board from the wrong side, initially, with the result being that the board sat upside-down on the chassis, and so the chassis wouldn’t slide into the Graflex’s bottom half, because the SD slot was obstructing things.

I also think I may have somehow damaged the board, in desoldering then resoldering the wires on the correct (bottom) side. After totally freaking out, I bit the bullet, and got a new 3D-printed chassis, speaker, and recharge port, as well as upgrading to a CF9 board. I’ll deal with the old CF8 board at a later date, and maybe another build. I’m still not sure what the deal was with my first attempt—why the charger indicated a full battery, or what went wrong. My multimeter wasn’t much help, since the speaker and recharge port were already permanently in place. LESSON ONE: Don’t install until you’re sure everything works!


I’m by no means an electronics expert, but I have basic knowledge and experience with soldering. I just went too far too fast, and made a mistake somewhere. I’d appreciate the help of the learned people in this form to help me avoid any further mistakes. In theory, this build is in the final stages, but I’m going slowly (and now taking the step of joining this forum to have feedback from the experts). As it stands, I have the LED module (Tri-Cree BBW) wired up, as well as some 5ohm/5w resistors ready to go. I presume that my resistor calculations are correct (the Blue LEDs are rated at a forward voltage of 1000ma at 3.4v, and the White at 1000ma at 3.15v). That would require one resistor for each LED at 4.7ohms/4.7w, yes?


I do have a question about CF9’s FoC feature. If I read the manual right, it seems that a resistor would be required for the white LED die. However, research indicates that a resistor might not be necessary, given that the FoC LED would only be in operation for short bursts at a time. And, according to the manual, the board has a footprint for a 2512/2W resistor. Should I go to the trouble of adding such a resistor to the board, or adding a resistor at all?


Also, I’m still deciding on whether to have a clamp card aux switch, or a red button aux switch. My activation will be in the clamp, but it would be nice to have dual aux switches—one in the clamp, and one in the red button. Is that doable? Or will I have to choose one or the other? My research hasn’t clearly indicated if the board can be wired with two aux buttons or not.


Any advice or warning about potential pitfalls would be appreciated! Thanks in advance.

Here’s where the build stands. A heavy static replica (still temporarily sporting the stock clamp card), without its beating CF heart! More photos as I make progress.

16449

[Tom Tilmon]

CF may have been a bit much to chew for your first build, but sounds like your neck deep in it already.

Prism 5.1 has 6 fonts, 3 LED channels, and 3.7 volts, aux features. That probably would have been a bit easier on a first timer. I don't wire CF boards, so hopefully someone will be along that can help you with the resistor calcs on the 7.4v board.

You can do a dual aux switch. Say like you make one of the wires on your red button switch yellow, and the other one black. Run them to your clamp card switch, and then run a yellow and black off of the clamp switch to continue on to your board. That way, either switch can momentarily send a signal that it has been depressed. I have done that, although it was dual power switches.

Make sure you have the RC Port wired correctly. It might be a good idea to mock up your entire saber wiring design outside the saber to test things out. Then do your install. I have built a bunch of Graflex 2.5s. I have built 2 with NBIV, 2 with Prism, and currently working on 2 Teensy Neopixels with metal Goth3D Master. Its definitely a cool little package, and yes, East Coast Sabers Vids are awesome! Big help. Especially if you use a NBIV! You must be a glutton for punishment.

Tom

[Tom Tilmon]

I wasn't very clear on that switch wiring. Imagine the wire, each individual wire running through the clamp switch to the red button switch. One yellow wire and one black wire on each switch. Those wires are each one continuous wire from your board to the clamp switch and continuous wire.

[Gregatron]

So, one positive/negative going from the board, then branching out to each switch. A sort of “double-y” wire configuration?

[Tom Tilmon]

I'm showing a NBIV here, but you get the picture, my 3rd grade drawing-style picture. Since I cannot seem to convey in words what you need to do. On the crystal focus you have 3 switch pads: Main, Ground, and Aux. You said you wanted 2 Aux switches. So, in my drawing here of 2 Aux switches, one in the clamp, and one in the red button: GND is the black wire, although it really doesn't matter, but that is how I wire mine. My GND switch wire is black. The wire that goes to the aux pad is orange here. So, as I said, imagine one continuous orange wire running though clamp switch pole to red button switch pole. Then one continuous black wire going to opposite switch pole, and continuing on to the opposite red button pole. It doesn't matter then which switch is depressed, the processor will recognize that one has been depressed and generate the appropriate reaction.

So on the CF9, the Orange wire goes to Aux Switch Pad, and the Black wire to your GND pad on the 3 Switch pad array. Your main switch goes to Main Pad and GND pad, just like the directions say.

https://i.imgur.com/myWl1Xy.jpg

Hopefully that helps.

Tom

[MasterStoddard]

So, one positive/negative going from the board, then branching out to each switch. A sort of “double-y” wire configuration?

That is for the ground wire only on the The CFv9, working with a v8 myself and have the "y" for ground wire from the board to both switches (testing with tactile momentary at the moment).

EDIT: Didn't see that you were trying for two aux switches or that somebody else had mentioned trying that option.

[Gregatron]

Yeah, the diagram makes sense. Thanks! Meanwhile, I wired up the battery to the recharge port. I’m waiting on an SMD resistor for the FoC, but I may wire the board to the speaker and battery in the meantime, as well as work on getting the switches all wired up. I also wired the LEDs and installed them into the heat sink.

I can’t really test each component, aside from checking for continuity with the multimeter, so I’m nervous! I really don’t want to wire everything up only to have it not work and not know where the problem is. In theory, everything should be wired up correctly, so far. My main concern is with getting everything to properly fit. The resistors for the blue LED dies are pretty big, and space is tight inside the upper area of the blade holder, since the 7.4v battery extends pretty far into it. I may have to cut down my blade plug so that the heat sink can sit higher inside the blade plug.

[Tom Tilmon]

I'm not that familiar with CF, but can you put a SMD resistor anywhere below the battery? Like on your board? Or, if not, can you bring your resistor lower into the hilt? I would think the Padawan chassis has more room for "stuff" in it than the Knight/Masters do. I have built 4 Knights (all with 3.7 V boards), and I'm currently working on a Master Chassis (in metal) with TeensyV3. I wish I knew the layout of the Padawan for Graflex a bit better. I do have a Padawan here for a DV6, and in looking at it you should be able to bring your blue resistor down the hilt to avoid having to lose any more blade socket to your LED Module/Heat Sink.

Is there room on your LED star for a SMD Resistor on the pad? You could sneak half the SMD on your blue pad, and wire to the opposite pole on the SMD resistor. All that would be really small stuff, micro soldering, but that would save the room you need. That wire connection would be chincy on the SMD resistor but there usually isn't much wire strain up there, particularly since you are using a fixed chassis. I'd be more creative with your resistor on that blue line versus losing more blade socket. Good luck!!!

Tom

[Gregatron]

I still need to play around with the available space. I think avoiding SMD resistors on the board/star would be the best way to go. I haven’t done too much test-fitting, but it does look like the chassis has enough room for the resistors on either side of the battery. These resistors are huge—nearly an inch long. The first 5ohm/5w resistors I got (from TCSS) we’re far too chunky, and so I had to search to find slimmer, more cylindrical ones. Looks like keeping them in the chassis might be the best way to go, so as to have enough from in the blade socket for the battery, the red button wires, and the LED wires.

As noted, the board has a pad for an SMD resistor, specifically for the FoC effect, so I’ll be going with that, for space reasons. As long as I don’t screw it up! I’m already paranoid enough that I’ve made a critical mistake that I have yet to discover, but slow and steady wins the race. Thanks again for the info/advice.

[Gregatron]

...so, I soldered up the LED resistors (minus the white FoC, which is still in the mail), and the wires for the double aux switches. However, test fitting everything in the blade holder has been problematic. The wires are relatively thick, and getting everything to fit properly will be a challenge.

I had initially planned on using magnet wire for all of the wiring, since it’s so thin, but was worried that the wire might not be able to handle the voltage. I ended up using 26 gauge wire.

So, the wiring is really too thick to sit alongside the heat sink and the battery inside the blade holder. Magnet wire should do the trick, but I wouldn’t want to use wiring to small for the current being employed.

In theory, I’m wondering if I could just switch out the 26 gauge red button wire for super-thin magnet wire. Everything else should fit with the 26 gauge, although it’ll be tight. I’d rather not disassemble everything just to switch out all the wiring for a smaller gauge. I’m not wiring anything to the board until I’m sure the fit is right. Thoughts?

[Tom Tilmon]

...so, I soldered up the LED resistors (minus the white FoC, which is still in the mail), and the wires for the double aux switches. However, test fitting everything in the blade holder has been problematic. The wires are relatively thick, and getting everything to fit properly will be a challenge.

I had initially planned on using magnet wire for all of the wiring, since it’s so thin, but was worried that the wire might not be able to handle the voltage. I ended up using 26 gauge wire.

So, the wiring is really too thick to sit alongside the heat sink and the battery inside the blade holder. Magnet wire should do the trick, but I wouldn’t want to use wiring to small for the current being employed.

In theory, I’m wondering if I could just switch out the 26 gauge red button wire for super-thin magnet wire. Everything else should fit with the 26 gauge, although it’ll be tight. I’d rather not disassemble everything just to switch out all the wiring for a smaller gauge. I’m not wiring anything to the board until I’m sure the fit is right. Thoughts?

I use 30 gauge wire for all in-hilt LED installs, including the lead lines to the LED. There are some nay-sayers to that method, but 30 gauge PTFE tends to fit in tight spots.

There is my 2cents.

Tom

[Gregatron]

I ordered some 28 gauge from TCSS. I think I’ll swap out some of the bulkier wires in the clamp switches, at least. It’ll take some careful splicing if I do the same for the battery and/or LED wires, but it shouldn’t be too bad.

I’d originally gone with the East Coast Sabers method of creating a channel in the first two ribs of the outer blade holder, but now I’m thinking that the best method would be to create a longer channel, so that the red button wires can sidestep the heat sink. If it comes down to it, I may have to stick with a single aux, in the clamp, but I’m not ready to give up, yet. Just annoyed at yet another setback!

I’m also wondering how hard it would be to rout out the inner blade holder—at least the lower half, where the chassis is inserted—to make it more roomy.

[PCModulus]

I use 30 gauge wire for all in-hilt LED installs, including the lead lines to the LED. There are some nay-sayers to that method, but 30 gauge PTFE tends to fit in tight spots.

There is my 2cents.

Tom

Im not sure why people argue over using 30AWG, its rated for 300 volts lol.

[bigkevin61]

Im not sure why people argue over using 30AWG, its rated for 300 volts lol.

Ok, but the Amp rating is the important limit on wire size.

[Gregatron]

Disconnected the various parts, and becgan cutting wires and splicing in the smaller 28 gauge wiring. Also been sanding down the chassis collar—inside and out—which slides into the blade holder, so as to provide a bit less friction. Finally, I received a new blade holder, so I can rethink how to route the red button wiring.

[PCModulus]

Ok, but the Amp rating is the important limit on wire size.

Yea, but its still not an issue in applications like this.

[bigkevin61]

Yea, but its still not an issue in applications like this.

Oh, for the love of....

IT COULD BE.

https://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

Ok, with a TYPICAL load for a main LED, and with the assumption that wire AWG amp (current) ratings are built with a safety margin, AND your wire up the circuit correctly, YES, 30AWG wire would work. Like Tom said, he does it.

BUT, this new forum member is asking questions as he is new to this, wanting to make sure he build his saber safely.

If someone doesn’t realize the POTENTIAL for issues with thin wire, and high Amp loads, like say wiring 2 main LEDs in series, but using a “Y” split in the circut to or from the LED star, which is sometimes done, I’d say pulling around 2amps through a section of wire that rates for less than 1amp could be important in a saber application.

Saying that a VOLT rating (which isn’t even mentioned as a rating scale for the wire in my link) and not AMPs is the reason 30AWG would work “in this application” is false and almost negligent.

A better (safe) statement would be “Yes, you could safely use 30AWG wire to the main LEDs, if you use a speperate circut for each diode, and aware of the amp load you would draw in your configuration, and the safe rating for your wire. Typical configurations should not have an issue.”

Exceeding the AMP rating will cause the wire to fail, and there are potential configurations that 30AWG wire is not ideal, or suited for.

[Gregatron]

Okay, I’ve been hard at work on wiring everything up. The smaller gauge wire allowed everything to fit—tightly—within the chassis.


I have everything wired up EXCEPT for the FoC die. I soldered a 2512 SMD resistor to the board, and will attach the FoC negative wire to that. However, the Crystal Focus 9 manual seems to indicate that the positive FoC wire is supposed to be soldered to the positive lead that connects the board to the recharge port. The photo (pg. 45) in the CF9 manual shows the underside of the board, but the layout doesn’t quite seem to match the actual board that I have.

Before I proceed, I just wanted to see if anyone could confirm whether or not this is where the FoC positive wire is supposed to go. Thanks!

[bigkevin61]

If you had some soldering issues, check your connections again.
Pics to look at would be helpful too.
If you have a multimeter, you can check to see if the board is getting power, also, is the battery fully charged?

[Gregatron]

IT WORKS! IT WORKS!


I wired up the FoC, and popped in the SD card. Everything works! The sound effects, the aux button (in the clamp, at least—I can’t wire up the red button until final assembly).

I’ve been playing around with the preloaded soundfonts on the SD card. Now that I know the saber works, I can customize the sounds.


One question, though—how much heat should this thing generate? I could feel the warmth from the resistors when I was testing the saber’s motion sensitivity. I believe my calculations were correct. I just don’t want this baby to overheat or anything.

[Gregatron]

Hmmm. There seems to be a bit of a rattle when the speaker is active. I’m not sure if there’s a problem with the speaker itself, or if it might be a result of the vibrations created by the speaker.

[Gregatron]

Swapped out the speaker for a spare. It’s fine, now. Started test-fitting in the Graflex body. The only problem is that the clamp switches are a tight fit. When the clamp card is inserted, the aux switch is triggered. Need to find a way to loosen things up a bit, so that the buttons are only triggered when the card is pressed. Hmmm.

[Tom Tilmon]

Swapped out the speaker for a spare. It’s fine, now. Started test-fitting in the Graflex body. The only problem is that the clamp switches are a tight fit. When the clamp card is inserted, the aux switch is triggered. Need to find a way to loosen things up a bit, so that the buttons are only triggered when the card is pressed. Hmmm.

Sometimes you need to file down or whittle down the switch seats on the 3d switch holder to get the right fitment and travel in the card. Every 3d switch holder I've installed is different. I've had to whittle some down, and shim some up. The key is the clamp card has a little travel, and when its being depressed the switch needs to be high enough to be depressed, but low enough to allow for some travel without being depressed. This is very common adjustment, and every holder is a teensy bit different, as is each clamp. Some clamps have more play than others for the clamp card to travel in.

Tom

[Gregatron]

Had a devil of a time getting the clamp switches properly adjusted. At one point, the bottom Graflex endcap somehow got stuck on the blade holder. I had to clamp it into my hobby vice to untwist it. After that, the bottom half had trouble threading onto the blade holder, so I swapped it out for the spare blade holder I bought as a backup, and applied lithium grease to help the threading process be smooth. Works fine, now.

Getting the switch holder adjusted was a pain, though. The aux wires came loose from the switch, at one point, and I ended up breaking and replacing the switch. Also had to carve away some of the bottom of the switch holder to get it to sit properly without sticking up too far.

As it now stands, the power and aux buttons both work with the stock Graflex 2.0 card in the clamp (which is a placeholder for my Wannawanga card until I’m sure everything is set).

I just need to repaint the front end of the blade holder, since some of the black anodizing scraped off during all of the adjustment work. After that, I can finally start getting into final assembly, and install the red button aux switch. After that, I’ll start adjusting my SD card parameters, and buy a few new soundfonts.

I’d say I’m in the home stretch! There have been some dicey moments, but it’s all gone pretty darn well.

[Tom Tilmon]

The threads must be well-maintained in the blade holder. What you experienced has happened before. I have been through it. You'll probably need to adjust your switches a bit when the wannawanga card comes in.

[Gregatron]

ARGH!!! I’d almost completed final assembly, but there was one small hiccup. Everything was going great. I soldered, tested and installed the upper red button’s aux switch, which works. However, when adjusting the KR Sabers resin red button cap to fit over the switch, I accidentally broke through/blew out the top of it with my Dremel’s ball-cutting tip.

So, I had to order new red button cap pieces from The Graflex Shop. Aside from that—and installing new soundfonts and preferences, the saber is done. So, it’s about 98% done, at this point. I just made one stupid, minor error, which will mean an annoying delay in finishing it. Could be worse!

[Gregatron]

Well, I received all of my new soundfonts, and started installing them. There’s some weird stuff going on with some of them. It seems like several .wav files are overlapping/playing in succession for the sound bank selection wavs and pstoff wavs. I probably just need to go through and pare down the files in each sound bank. Still getting the hang of this, and I need to check out some more tutorials.

[Silver Serpent]

If you're getting weird playback issues after installing new fonts, you might want to go back and perform a FULL format of your SD card. Reloading fonts afterwards should work fine.

[Tom Tilmon]

While you're learning the configurations and adding fonts, I'd only change one thing at a time on the SD. In other words, keep the stock settings on NBIV, then make one change (one configuration change, add one font to a bank, and then test. If all goes well, then make your next change, and test. That way you see what each setting does, and whether or not the font you loaded is any good. Some fonts are better than others. I like Dark Meat and Gray Meat a lot. Neither are really Graflex Fonts though. Which fonts did you get?

Tom

[Gregatron]

I was pretty tired when I began playing with the fonts, and it turns out I’d forgotten to format the SD card, the other night. Works now. Thanks for the advice, Silver Serpent!

I’ve spent all day diving into the deep end of adjusting and customizing the font package I bought (mostly Graflex fonts) to accurize and tweak them. I also started playing with the swing/clash/etc. parameters.

I created a “soundwork” folder on my PC where I do all the experimenting and tweaking, then copy it to the SD card when I’m ready to try it. And, of course, my original CF9 stock fonts/configurations and Saberfont purchases are in their own separate folders. That way, I can mix and match while still always having the originals to go back to in case of error (and for reference).

There were a few bumps in the road, but things are coming along well. About the only hiccup I have now is that the boot sound for each font plays after the font sound when a font is selected from the sound bank, which I don’t understand. It didn’t do that before, and I don’t know why it suddenly started to do so. Any suggestions?


I also like Graymeat a lot. That and Hoth were the only ones I ported over from the stock SD card. The new fonts I bought are Graflex IV, Graflex V, ESB Legends, Bespin II, Episode IV Training Bot, Graflex ROTS, Old Ben, Vader OT, The Schwartz, and BMF. The last two are just for giggles.

I’ve gone hog wild with mixing and matching sounds and hums to be more movie-accurate. Removing prequel-era hums and clashes from OT fonts, getting the proper poweron/poweroff sounds for each font, etc. A lot of fonts which are supposed to represent a particular character or movie tend to have elements from other movies and other characters’ sabers mixed in, which kinda irks me. I may have to grab a generic OT/PT font or two to have more sounds to play with, but I’m pretty happy with what I’ve accomplished.

I’ve also been transplanting boot/font sounds, too. Like replacing BMF’s boot/font sounds with something a little more all-ages friendly!

[Tom Tilmon]

Graflex IV is THE graflex font, IMO! That font is incredible. Everything about is perfect to my ear. Of course, I'm half deaf, so....there you have it. Glade you have it in final tweaks. Come finish mine, its killing me.

Tom

[SFXER001]

Keep that ear pro on at the range, Tom.

[Gregatron]

I’m still not sure why the boot sounds are playing after I select a font!

That said, I won’t have time to fine-tune the fonts until Sunday, when my vacation starts. Still waiting on my replacement red buttons from TGS, but I’m in no hurry.

I also need to start fine-tuning the flicker and FoC parameters. At first glance, it looks like each font has different preloaded settings. Still working on getting the swing sensitivity right. Any tips, in terms of motion gate numbers and whatnot?

[Tom Tilmon]

Keep that ear pro on at the range, Tom. I do, bagpipes are the problem. 20 years of playing the pipes and leading the band does a number on your hearing.

I'm not sure about font settings and boot sounds of CF Greg, wish I knew CF better. Don't know why its doing that. Maybe FJK can chime in here, that is his go to board.

Tom

[SFXER001]

Do you wear acoustic earplugs? Specifically for musicians and loud concerts? They help block out the damaging frequencies while still allowing a musician or audience-member to hear the music properly. They were a life-saver at the last Iron Maiden concert I was at, since we were about 5 people deep from the stage. Anyways, sidebar conversation.

[Gregatron]

Still working on refining the soundfonts. Mixing and matching sounds to customize each of the 12 soundbanks. Been refining the motion/clash sensitivity, and I’m getting very close to what I would consider spot-on. Also started playing with the blade/LED settings (flicker, etc.).

The board still plays the font sounds AND boot sounds when a particularl font is selected, but I haven’t really dug into the configurations to see if there’s a reason for it.

[Gregatron]

I may be an idiot!

I cleared off the SD card, then reloaded the original, stock CF9 fonts, and it still plays the boot.wav sound after the font.wav sound when a font is selected from the soundbank list. I’m thinking this is how it’s supposed to work!

Also, I had to resolder the thin silver traces on my clamp card, since they were getting worn off from all of the handling and experimentation I’ve been doing. Wasn’t nearly as hard as I expected. Using solder flux paste on the traces (and masking off the thick brass traces) helps.

[Gregatron]

Still tinkering with various configurations. It’s been a long and tricky process. I’ve probably spent at least 20 hours on it, in total. Tweaking, testing, retweaking, retesting. I’m pretty much done with the actual soundfont changes. I’ve shuffled sounds around for pretty much every soundbank on the board to get them just how I want them.

Now, I’m focusing on things like flicker and light effects. I need to go through all of the blaster sounds and better match the timing of their FoC deflection effects. Especially since I mixed and matched many of them, so that the sounds no longer match a particular font’s blaster bolt light effects. Tedious stuff!

[Tom Tilmon]

That tinkering with the configs always takes me longer than the install. I know its good when I click through all the fonts, and think to myself, "I like that, I'm done." Although, it usually takes me a week or so to get there.

Finished my graflex up while you've been at it. Youtube Linky (https://youtu.be/dmBGUSgL9V4)

Good luck on your journey! Get her chooching on all 8!

Tom

[Gregatron]

Looks great!

[Gregatron]

Finally received my replacement red button caps from TGS. The glue is setting, now. When cured, the saber will be complete, aside from some additional last-minute checking and tweaking of the configurations and soundfonts. After that, I’ll take some photos and video.

[Gregatron]

Still looking for a good photo/video hosting site, but I did upload photos and videos of all the soundfonts to Facebook.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1767216636867414/permalink/2096652487257159/

[Tom Tilmon]

Nice, BMF and Schwarz! Nice job Greg!!!!!

Tom

[Gregatron]

Thanks for all of your help!