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Corbin_Das
03-26-2007, 10:17 PM
Recharge ports (or power jacks) serve a very useful purpose: They allow you to charge up your saber's batteries without having to take your saber apart. That helps keep the parts from getting lost or damaged and just looks better.

After several questions from people wanting to know how to hook up the power jacks (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/pc-871-36-25mm-power-jack.aspx) we sell here, we decided to make a tutorial.

It's fairly straight forward...

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/images/PRODUCT/medium/872.jpg (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/pc-872-6-25mm-power-plug.aspx) http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/images/PRODUCT/medium/871.jpg (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/pc-871-6-25mm-power-jack.aspx) http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/images/PRODUCT/medium/876.jpg (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/pc-876-6-48v-2200mah-rechargeable-battery-pack.aspx)
.................Power plug.............................................. .Power jack.............................................. ...4.8V rechargeable battery pack

If you're using one of our rechargeable battery packs (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/pc-876-6-48v-2200mah-rechargeable-battery-pack.aspx), they come with the quick connect already installed. The wire with the white stripes on it is the negative one and the solid wire is the positive one.

What you need to do first is look at the bottom of the recharge port and determine which contacts are which. There will be one going to a central section that lays over a brownish/orange insulator. This one is going to be your positive contact. The one immediately to its right (or clockwise from it) will be the negative contact. The other one COULD work as a negative also, but it's grounded to the body, which I wouldn't recommend since you've got the other one that's isolated already. Sometimes grounding out against the body can cause issues, especially with red, red/orange and amber LEDs. See the diagram below:

http://server3.uploadit.org/files/corbinspics10-rechargeport80.JPG

Once you determine which contacts you'll use, take the female section of the quick connect clip and solder the wire with the white stripes on it to the negative contact of the power jack and then solder the solid black wire to the positive contact.

After you do this, get two pieces wire and solder each one to the same contacts on the jack that you connected the quick connect's wires to. I prefer to use red and black wires to indicate positive (red) and negative (black), but that's just me.

These two new wires will end up going to your saber's electronics. That could be the switch that will run to your EL inverter (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/pc-624-18-4khz-inverter.aspx) in the case of an EL saber, the resistor in the case of an LED direct drive saber, or the driver (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/pc-691-23-luxeon-3w-driver.aspx) in the case of a driven Luxeon saber.


A bit of advice on soldering...

You'll find things work easier if you "tin" your contacts and wires before soldering. Tinning just means that you get the piece hot with your soldering gun, then put a little solder on it first. Once the wires and contacts are tinned, they tend to join together much easier.

Another thing...

It's better to use a hotter soldering gun for a shorter amount of time than one that's not hot enough to melt the solder right away and leave it on the wires or contacts longer. Doing that would tend to melt the insulation or (in the case of electrical components) fry the circuitry. Think of a hot soldering gun as sharp knife: the sharp knife will get the job done much faster and with more precision.

Corbin_Das
04-28-2007, 09:29 PM
Hello again
In response to several requests, we have added an optional method of wiring up the recharge port that will allow for a "kill switch". This option basically cuts power going to the saber's components and routes all power directly to the batteries.
This would allow for a dummy (non metallic) plug to be inserted into the port to act as a "saftey key" or "kill switch". Not everyone prefers this option though. If they want to have the saber running from the AC powered charger, this setup wouldn't work. Granted, a Li-Ion charger may not work in this capacity anyway, but one for NiMHs normally will.
If a kill switch type setup sounds like something you would like to do, here is the diagram on how to set it up. Thanks to Erv' for the use of the picture:

http://www.plecterlabs.com/Media/RechargePort.jpg

Novastar
04-30-2007, 05:33 AM
Hi Corbin...

That 5-pin stereo jack connector you found when we were working on BOP I works just dandy as far as I can tell.

I cut both the + & the - leads with it... so far I've had no problems utilizing the kill switch... although I will have to do more tests I imagine.

Corbin_Das
04-30-2007, 11:06 AM
Hi Novastar
Yeah, those audio jacks work well too. The only issue I've seen with them is the way the plug is designed, sometimes it sparks when inserting it and depending on how touchy the particular protection circuit is on the Li-Ion battery you're using (if using a Li-Ion pack at all), it MAY trip the short circuit sensor on the PCB and shut off your batteries for a bit. I've only had that happen a few times, but still.

Corbin

Novastar
05-03-2007, 05:01 AM
Excellent point... and I would agree--doesn't happen very much...

I've noticed it seems to be a good thing to cut BOTH + and - leads to a board when wiring a kill switch, as it gives you a bit less chance of "sparking" I'd think... hard to explain, but I have tested these a lot lately and I like the "cutting both + & -" better...

DACOTA
05-28-2007, 06:27 PM
So what do you hook the power plug to,the charger tim sells?

[EDIT] 500 posts weeeeeeeeeeeeee! I'm a jedi grand master,now to prove myself and actually start building sabers using my acquired knowledge from you masters.

xwingband
05-28-2007, 07:16 PM
So what do you hook the power plug to,the charger tim sells?


Yes, you just need to correspond the positive and negative on the jack with how the port is wired. i.e. the center should both be positive or however you wire it.

Lord Maul
05-28-2007, 08:05 PM
xwing, are there any tricks to soldering that sucker on?
i tried for 2 hours and couldn't get the dang thing to stay on :evil: :shock:

xwingband
05-28-2007, 08:38 PM
Both the port and jack have holes in the tabs. Wrap the wire around that.

If your iron is hot enough and you use enough solder it should flow around and through the hole to make as solid as a connection as you can get.

Lord Maul
05-28-2007, 08:44 PM
that doesn't work. i tried it.

there is a black plastic screw on protection sleeve for it, and that makes wire wrapping impossible. there is NO clearance on it

Jedi-Loreen
05-28-2007, 09:46 PM
This might sound like a stupid question, but did you put the insulated part of the wires on the inside of the power jack?

And you don't need to actually wrap the wire through the holes, or around the terminals, just bend the wire into little "j"s to hook through the holes, then crimp them down flat with needle nose pliers and you only need a little bit of solder to hold the wires onto the terminals, just fill up the hole and get a little on the end of the wire till it's coated with the solder. The connection will be quite strong.

With that method, there shouldn't be too much bulk that would interfere with the protective cap going on over the wiring.

Darth Tollo
06-28-2007, 01:12 PM
I have a question about the charger. What voltage is the charger? And what is the polarity?

Stinky Bantha
08-06-2007, 06:53 PM
About the kill switch.... say I was going to be using a recharge port with Erv's board but didn't have a kill switch. Would I risk blowing out my board every time I recharged?

xwingband
08-06-2007, 07:03 PM
The only downside to not using a plug to kill it will be the constant battery drain... no risk of blowing at recharge.

Erv recommends wiring that way though, because there is no risk of turning it on while charging which might create some bad stuff. It's common sense so i don't always do it, but it doesn't hurt!

Novastar
08-06-2007, 07:20 PM
Yup. I highly recommend a kill switch on any rechargeable saber with a driver board.

Not really important if you are going direct-drive + rechargeable though.

Stinky Bantha
08-06-2007, 07:33 PM
I'm still slightly fuzzy on how exactly the kill switch works as well. So if you've got it wired up to use the kill switch, the dummy key you use will cut off all power to the board, correct? And the same thing will happen when you put in the plug for the charger? If that's the case, what's the need for a key to cut the power if the charger plug will do it?

xwingband
08-06-2007, 07:39 PM
I guess you could use a charger plug as the "key". I believe Erv sells and recommends a plastic one is because it will not conduct electricity and it's a smaller form factor.

In fact I think in Erv's tutorial he mentions something about using the plug but soldering a screw to it or something...

chase
08-13-2007, 10:10 AM
ok, maybe im retarded or it just doesnt make sense to me because i dont have the recharge kit in front of me, but i dont get the wiring. i dont get where the battery kit connects to the electronics of the saber... is there a completly seperate piece that goes from the battery pack that wires to everything else? should i just wait to get a driver/sound board to get a recharge pack?

xwingband
08-13-2007, 11:10 AM
Where it says "to saber" on them that goes to whatever electronics you are running. It can just be a resistor on up to a fancy all in one board. The batteries don't directly connect to your electronics so that you can charge the pack.

It's like a switch in a resistor setup... your just blocking/shunt the flow of power.

chase
08-13-2007, 01:27 PM
ok i think i get it, i just couldnt tell what that thing was....now i know.

Novastar
08-14-2007, 10:59 AM
I guess you could use a charger plug as the "key". I believe Erv sells and recommends a plastic one is because it will not conduct electricity and it's a smaller form factor.

In fact I think in Erv's tutorial he mentions something about using the plug but soldering a screw to it or something...DO NOT under any circumstances use a metal "dummy" plug as a kill or key switch in a recharge port--this will create a short in the batteries, causing + & - to effectively be wired together.

Use something plastic/non-conductive or... bad things will happen!!! :)

This may already have been clear to people posting/reading this... but just wanted to be sure.

xwingband
08-14-2007, 11:56 AM
Well, if you used a plug that wasn't wired to anything... it's not going to short. If that were true it'd short everytime you charged it.

I wasn't reffering to a metal key acting like the ones Erv sells... just one of the recharge plugs like Tim sells. Especially now that he has the ones with the Taimya plugs. Just use that not hooked to the charger.

GFORCE13
09-21-2007, 12:12 AM
Well I have Question does anybody have the rough Dimensions of the Recharge Port, I am thinking of adding one to my Stunt Hilt and I am hoping there will be enough room for both the Port and the Pushbutton on the Pommel End of a Style 1, I know it will be close. Also what is the advantage of using the 2.5 vs 2.1mm plug other than size?

Jonitus
09-21-2007, 07:07 AM
Well I have Question does anybody have the rough Dimensions of the Recharge Port, I am thinking of adding one to my Stunt Hilt and I am hoping there will be enough room for both the Port and the Pushbutton on the Pommel End of a Style 1, I know it will be close. Also what is the advantage of using the 2.5 vs 2.1mm plug other than size?

Externally, the 2.1 and 2.5 are the same size. Only the ID of the female piece and the OD of the male piece is different. The OD of the female is the same size for both.

Novastar
09-22-2007, 04:51 AM
Well, if you used a plug that wasn't wired to anything... it's not going to short. If that were true it'd short everytime you charged it.I am saying exactly what happened to me. A metal kill switch/empty recharge port that led nowhere--tripped the PCB on my batteries. Then again, it could be the particular connector I was using. I don't know.

Connecting it to a plug where the juice has somewhere to go, like the charger unit--works fine, no shorts.

I may be missing some things here, but I have NO idea how one could use a metal/dummy version of their recharge port for their kill switch... and not REALLY kill things!

I am glad the Li-Ions have the PCB. Moe than ever since THAT little stunt of mine... d'oh. What was I THINKING. Actually, there it is... I *wasn't* thinking. :)

Corbin_Das
09-22-2007, 05:35 PM
The power plugs we now use are harder to short out with a metal (unhooked) plug than the older headphone style setups I used to use. Tht's not to say it can't be done, but it's harder.
I'm currently scouring the various hardware stores, RC shops and electronic stores to try and find an off the shelf plastic plug that fits into the recharge ports to function as a safety key. I'll post pics if/when I find something.

Corbin

Novastar
09-26-2007, 09:56 PM
For the record, a little "nylon hose barb" in the 1/8" size will work nicely in a stereo jack port when it is slightly shaved down a bit on the OD.

Granted, it may not be the most ideal setup.

Corbin_Das
09-26-2007, 10:08 PM
I just bought some PVC tubing yesterday that's almost perfect. It fits snugly over the center pin of the 2.5mm ports and easily over the 2.1mm pins. It cuts power to both when inserted. I just need to add some sort of cap to the tube and it should be good. I'm looking into that now.

Corbin

Hasid Lafre
09-27-2007, 10:26 AM
Would machinging something out of poly carb be worth the cost?

Corbin_Das
09-27-2007, 02:30 PM
Would machinging something out of poly carb be worth the cost?

Not sure. Might look at casting them too. We'll see.

Any suggestions for what the cap or outer portion should look like? A key like thing? A thumbscrew looking deal? Maybe a dome? A crystal? Maybe a small ring with a lanyard?

The section of tubing I have is like 16" long, so I'll probably make a few different models and see what works best. I tried one of those brass eyelets that screws into a wall to hook things on and it works pretty well. The ring could allow for a lanyard too I suppose. I was also thinking of adding a fake jeweled cabochon to either side of the loop. Might look nice.

This method I'm using makes a nice piece, but it's more labor intensive to make them that it would be to find and just buy a bunch of off the shelf pieces that happen to work or to just have some made up. Still, it allows for customization I suppose.


Corbin

Hasid Lafre
09-27-2007, 04:27 PM
Something like this would be neat.

http://www.plecterlabs.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=22_24&products_id=41
http://www.plecterlabs.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=22_24&products_id=40
http://www.plecterlabs.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=22_24&products_id=111


Maybe something where we can screw them into something and attach them to our hilt for other decoration.

Darth Morbius
10-09-2007, 08:03 AM
I just bought some PVC tubing yesterday that's almost perfect. It fits snugly over the center pin of the 2.5mm ports and easily over the 2.1mm pins. It cuts power to both when inserted. I just need to add some sort of cap to the tube and it should be good. I'm looking into that now.

Corbin

If I may interject here. Why not these cone knobs for Tie pilot chest boxes?

On the right halfway down... I'm using them for a Luke ROTJ V2 Kill key. They are threaded on the underside. Thread a piece of PVC with a die set and epoxy it into the knob's thread...

http://www.elvistrooper.com/tiekit.htm

xwingband
10-09-2007, 08:37 AM
I was actually the one that sent that link to killphil and I'm using it for the kill key on his hilt.

I cut down one of erv's kill keys to fit inside the threaded hole and then glued it in. Works fantastically. The reason I opted for it going inside the threaded hole instead over the 8-32 screw is that I wanted as flush as possible. There is very little threads going over... the way I did it too there is absolutely no metal near the port itself.

I'm not sure if that's what you meant because there isn't exactly an easy way outside of machining to put the threads on the outside of any PVC.

Darth Morbius
10-10-2007, 12:58 AM
That's pretty much the idea Xwing.

Yeah Killphil mentioned you gave him the link for those knobs. :D

That's actually a bettersolution than attempting to thread the knob on the pvc, a dab of epoxy will help seat it in permanently. :)

TorLinWaDur
10-26-2007, 08:01 PM
anybody have an actually picture of the whole set up;
LED, resistor, switch, recharger port, and battery ???

i mean the diagrams are great, but id like to see the whole picture.

Corbin_Das
10-27-2007, 12:48 AM
anybody have an actually picture of the whole set up;
LED, resistor, switch, recharger port, and battery ???

i mean the diagrams are great, but id like to see the whole picture.

I had a circuit just like that sitting out on my table a couple nights ago. Now it's inside a saber though. The trouble with live pictures of wiring is it's often hard to see where evrything is hooked up, especially on sometyhing like a recharge port, unless it's a closeup of just that.


Corbin

xwingband
12-02-2007, 08:05 PM
http://www.incomsabers.com/images/port.jpg

I thought I would post this because of issues I've had and other sabers. On Erv's board if the switches have power flowing through them it finds a way to do funky crap.

Simple but not always evident: CUT POWER TO EVERYTHING. This is done by having the port be FIRST in the loop from the batteries.

Novastar
12-03-2007, 01:56 AM
X to the Z is absolutely right. Wherever possible--when using a kill switch (and for applications other than "simple" direct drive/resistor setups)...

1st item = Batteries
2nd item = Kill switch or kill + recharge
... whatever you want after that.

DO NOT allow other components in there until AFTER the "killed" leads.

In fact, I recommend killing BOTH positive AND negative leads using a port/switch that essentially works like this (for example):

Pin 1: Ground
Pin 2: + lead to batteries (for example)
Pin 3: + lead to board
Pin 4: - lead to batteries
Pin 5: - lead to board

Inserting the plastic/nylon/NON-conductive kill pin/key will sever connections 2 & 3... and ALSO 4 & 5.

Why be redundant? Well... it means there is ABSOLUTELY NO WAY any current of any kind... can reverse flow... cause a momentary short... etc. Also--if ONE of the lead cuts fails for any reason... hopefully at least the OTHER will be good.

I say this myself because I was just experimenting with some kill pins that cut only one lead... we're having problems already. Sometimes they work--sometimes, they don't QUITE cut the circuits. On my previous ones... they work fine, cutting both leads.

Great post, X...

Kamurah
12-03-2007, 01:15 PM
Thought I'd offer up a 0.2$ here....

I just this weekend customized one of Erv's kill plugs with....of all things.....a chrome valve cap that goes on an automobile tire.

Cut off a bit of the bottom to make it the same size as the 'extruded' part of the plug, ....add a bit of hot glue.....voila, a nice decorative cap.

Looks good and not too expensive.

Cheers

xwingband
12-11-2007, 07:52 AM
Ummm... I'm an idiot. Switch the green and black up there. It causes it to not charge but it kills fine. I made the pic off my head and didn't check.

Principle is good... execution... poor. :lol:

Thinks like that freak you out when you have little sleep and need to finish a saber in a few hours because they're going to come pick it up. :shock:

EDIT: I typo'd FINKY! I must have been on something when I drew that. Proof I borked it right there...

erv
02-13-2008, 11:19 AM
I'm late for posting here, many aspects have been covered.
I'm however pointing a few things :
- I have a customer who told me he had troubles with wiring the recharge port with the kill switch using one of TCSS port. I remember corbin told me a long time ago that the current stock was not working as a kill switch. Just would like to make sure that there is no doubt now.

- while it does not really matter to have the kill switch topology for a resistor + luxeon setup, you NEED it as soon as you have an electronic device inside. Maybe not for a buck puck, if it resists to hight voltage but... a charger chops current and voltage for charging batteries. If you apply that to the board AND to the pack, the board might "start" and fool the current measurement of the charger which might... send even more and fry the board. NiMH are charged with current (with voltage monitoring), but voltage output by such a charger can go above 12V, which is the limit of CF.
In anycase, my "dumb engineer" point of view is WHY NOT putting a kill switch since it's very easy. If you answer "because my hilt is too small", then give us a favor : spend more money at TCSS and buy a new hilt (enginners have a really particular way of solving certain problems... ask me how much is 1+1, I'll ask you how much do you want it to be).
I haven't invented anything : this wiring / topology is WHAT IS USED in any electronic system that has an embeded recharge port (when the smart charger isn't internal). Same idea for cutting the speakers of your laptop when you insert your headphones in the side minijack female plug.

- the kill plug : neophyl was using little plastic parts he found here and there. I was machining some in PVC (takes ages). Not that I don't trust using a real recharge plug that you cut, but I prefer the safer way with something totally made of plastic. Casting is a solution as corbin said. On my side, I stopped proposing them cause I don't have the time to machine them, it takes me 15 minutes to make 2.

Novastar
02-13-2008, 05:04 PM
Agreed on what the material of the kill plug should be... NON-METAL.

I've had nothing but trouble in the distant past (like 2006) when I tried metal kill plugs, or ones with a little metal. Just avoid it altogether.

And yes, Erv is correct... there is no reason NOT to use a kill switch of some sort if you are going with rechargeable batteries. It also stands to reason: what would you rather screw up? The cells... or the => $100 board? Protect your board... whatever it is.

You can always replace cells. As of this message--you CANNOT always replace an Ultrasound nor Crystal Focus. Duh.

Count Malik
02-13-2008, 06:31 PM
I here ya there Nova might get me some pvc and machine it when I get the jack so I can see when it will fit. Thanks, this helped me out alot. Because with CF don't you need to re-boot the saber if you are using different colors that have differint voltages?

Dark Navel
02-14-2008, 12:31 AM
OK..I am a pic person>>>Either I need sleep or I'm dumb...OK, both. I am getting Corbins board in the next few days and I don't want to fry it.

I see where to connect the recharge port but I'm not sure if I can piggyback on the exisitng wires that I have in the pic.

Where can I hook the recharge port to? can someone help me out and either fininsh the recharge port connectors or let me know if I can piggyback off of the existing wires?

When it says to the board and the battery pack can I piggyback off of the wire shown or should I have 2 seperate wires:1 to the board and the other to the battery pack.:?:
http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh290/t1made/soundHasbromodcorbin1.jpg

Lord Sceleris
02-14-2008, 08:38 AM
Ok I know this is a nuub question, but I just want to make sure I got this straight...if I am going to use a buck puck...it would go in place of the corbin board in the above diagram correct?

I only ask because all the diagrams I have see to date include a corbin board and not a buck puck :confused:

Also with the corbin momentary board, I use a push to make switch for primary power correct? Or would that make the blade just turn on while the button was pushed...making sure I am grasping this stuff...

thank you

Dark Navel
02-18-2008, 01:45 PM
hasid put up some nice diagrams in another post...Just search around, you can't miss it. As for the power switch if you just want a single power switch go with a momentary SPST switch. You need this switch when you are using a Hasbro board for sound. These switches don't hold in place once you press them..If you depress the button/plunger it will stay down..yuou don't want that kind. You want it when you press the button it "clicks" but comes right back to the original position it was in.

Novastar
02-20-2008, 03:15 PM
I here ya there Nova might get me some pvc and machine it when I get the jack so I can see when it will fit. Thanks, this helped me out alot. Because with CF don't you need to re-boot the saber if you are using different colors that have differint voltages?*NO*. Be very careful with "hot-swapping" LEDs with CF that have widely differing voltages!

In general, ALWAYS "cold" reboot CF (kill switch/unplug batteries) when changing out an LED.

ESPECIALLY if you're swapping (for example) a Luxeon V (6.85vf) with a Luxeon III or K2 (@3.9vf). Even if you maintain any "ledcurrent" settings... you may have a voltage issue that you simply don't want to mess with.

Again... as a general rule... do NOT "hot-swap" LEDs with CF... that is just a bad idea, unnecessary, and dangerous for your LED. Granted, you only lose something like $10 to $25 if you blow one of those LEDs... but... still.

DACOTA
02-22-2008, 07:13 PM
Listen to Nova. You will listen to Nova.[ Jedi mind trick]

Gunk
04-22-2008, 07:45 AM
OK, so if I have a recharge port in the bottom of my hilt....can I still use a button to put saber on/off? or will the key do that?

Novastar
04-22-2008, 08:24 AM
It depends on how you wire it up.

But in short... you can wire a saber up any way you like. YOU are in control of the circuit layout... not the other way around!

erv
04-22-2008, 08:31 AM
if you wired the recharge port using the 3 pins of it, as described in my tutorial, inserting a male plug in the recharge port will cut the power to the board. This will happend when you insert a real charging plug from a charger or inserting a "kill plug" (like the one TCSS now sells, or any dumb male plug fitting the recharge port)

Erv'

LAN-ED-TUL
04-24-2008, 05:31 PM
if your not using a board for anything, but just buckpucks drove right off the recharge batts, would you still need the kill plug? im fixin to redo my jedi hilt with a recharge pack and a port in the insert part in the pommel. i got a kill plug from here. but i just have a 700 mah puck driving my Lv Green led. and im assuming the diagram at the first is the way i would wire it up with the exception that the wires going off the port would be ground to puck ground, hot to switch, then on over to puck hot?


that correct?

Do-Clo
04-24-2008, 07:11 PM
Lan you would not need to use the kill plug option because you would use the main power switch to turn the power on and off to the buckpuc. I would however make a cool looking plug to insert into the charging port so that it doesn't look like a charging port when the saber is displayed.

I did this on a Kit Fisto I just finished and it looks great.

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s176/jpbeck1/100_0328-1.jpg



http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s176/jpbeck1/100_0329.jpg

Obi-Dar Ke-Gnomie
05-23-2008, 10:27 PM
Bumping this thread because I need some clarification.

I got my CF yesterday. After I did a little happy dance in front of the mail box, I brought it home and started wiring it up. I have most of it figured out, but I have a question where the recharge port is concerned.

The diagram in the second post in this thread shows the recharge port breaking the circuit between the battery pack negative, and the board negative.

I'm reading through the CF user's manual, and the wiring diagrams show the port breaking the positive circuit between the battery and the board.

Which is correct? Does it matter?

erv
05-23-2008, 11:56 PM
Cutting the positive is generally what you do with a general power switch or "general" switch.
For the recharge port, however, it's the negative you cut.
I appologize for some undetailed things in the manual, I *know* I have to rework some illustrations and include some of the tutorials in the user's manual but I'm just out of time.

Obi-Dar Ke-Gnomie
05-24-2008, 05:45 PM
Thank you, sir!

That's all I need to know. (For now...)

Phiily Manyaan
06-26-2008, 09:33 AM
Hi. I've read through this whole thread and it seems everyone is discussing how to connect it to a board, but I want to use it with two buckpucks and no board of any sort. I'm going off of what I believe is Arm on Fire's diagram of using two pucks with a JoeJedi/616 board. I understand I would wire the battery connector to the port, and from those same leads, wire the + and - to the electronics. Would one of these (+?) go to the resistor and the other (-) to the LED? I'm just inserting it into the TCSS starter electronics kit, but replacing the resistor with two pucks. While I'm here, do I wire black to black, red to red, blue to blue, and white to white on the pucks with black being the (-)?

LAN-ED-TUL
06-26-2008, 02:22 PM
there was a simple diagram pic posted showing the basic dbl parallel wiring of 2 pucks. i did mine that way, and my switch wa cut into the hot lead off the battery. if i remember right, the recharge port wires into the system before the switch, on the battery side.

you have batt hot, going to port and from port to switch, then to the hot leads of pucks.

the neg batt lead goes to recharge port, then on to the neg lead of pucks.

yes, the pucks wire together matching the wires colors. red/red blue/blue white/white. so on and so forth. simply wire the matching wires then add the led wires to the right places, and the switch lead, and neg lead.

pretty simple setup.

Phiily Manyaan
06-26-2008, 08:51 PM
Will I end up using all of the wires on the buckpucks? It looks like there are a million of em. I should probably also ask whether this setup works with an SPST switch (the one from the starter kit), I can understand how I would wire it, I've just always seen DPDT's in the diagrams.

LAN-ED-TUL
06-28-2008, 05:17 AM
no, just the red and black and blue and white ones. the control wires i dont use. thats mainly for a dimmer potentiometer of sorts.

Phiily Manyaan
06-28-2008, 08:42 AM
Could you tell me if this is correct?

eastern57
06-29-2008, 04:10 PM
Not quite. The battery neg goes directly to the recharge port only. The other neg (on the recharge port) goes directly to the negs of both pucks. The Pos from the battery goes to both the recharge port and the switch. From the switch - you got it right.

Phiily Manyaan
06-29-2008, 06:35 PM
Like so?

Sorry for the sloppiness, Apple Paintbrush is a horrid program compared to MS Paint...Only thing Microsoft got right, that and Xbox.

eastern57
06-29-2008, 07:58 PM
getting closer... the battery neg goes to the recharge port ONLY, not the switch, so undo that.

FenderBender
11-20-2008, 10:58 PM
Im having a problem with a recharge port that I just wired up. Its got a vader board and a 4AAA pack, I followed the diagram to the T. Everything works fine, but when I insert a kill plug ( non wired 2.1 plug) it turns just the LED on. Wierd. Any thoughts?

Novastar
11-21-2008, 12:54 AM
Fender... short of me needing to physically see a photo of the wiring (and how the port is MOUNTED)...

...I'm going to venture a guess that you are experiencing the "shorting out to the hilt/body" problem that I've been trying to figure out over here on my end with two sabers of mine.

My guess is... when you insert a "dummy" metal port--it is somehow allowing current to flow through (get this)... the BODY OF YOUR SABER. Yes, that's right, the saber itself might be allowing some current to get through to the LED.

Why the LED and not the board? Well... my experience is limited, but... here's my guess. The board is isolated from the metal body... but the LED... maybe is NOT. What color LED are you using? I'm going to guess it's a Red or Red-O or Amber Lux III... although it doesn't have to be for this to occur.

Anyhow... here's a test:

* Try all of this with the port and/or all of the wiring UNMOUNTED. In other words--wires aren't all tucked away in the hilt, just testing the electronics + emitter/LED/heatsink/light, etc.

* Try your kill plug. Do you get the same result.

I'll stop there for now. :D

FenderBender
11-21-2008, 07:06 AM
Ill test that in a little bit, though it does make sense and was running along the lines of the conclusion I was coming to. There is a little tab on the outside of the jack thats part of the kill switch, it bumps out just a tad when you plug anything into it. That maybe whats doing it. Is there any way to insulate the LED/heatsink without changing the space dynamics where its housed? I am using a green P4, and the heatsink is pure copper and sitting directly in the hilt so maybe that theory holds some water. Ill test things and see about a way to insulate the LED. Why doesn't this happen to people more often though?

Novastar
11-22-2008, 12:30 AM
My guess is... it happens all the time. It sure to 'ell happened to *ME* a lot in the course of BOP I & BOP II... in different ways... with different setups... and actually, some of it was Corbin's discovery when working on the Necrolosis Staff for BOP I (since at that time, I knew jack about LEDs, sabers, circuits, etc.)...

Anyhow... I think you should try what I said. But... since you posted again with a bit more info... you can use thermal TAPE, which is usually non-ELECTRICALLY conductive... yet still dissipates/distributes the HEAT. So... yup, try that IN LIEU OF the thermal paste one might use between the sink & LED.

Personally, I've never done that--I've always found a way to prevent the short in another fashion (since it can be cut off in many ways)... but... I'm guessing that SOMEDAY I'll run into a saber on which it is impossible to go without thermal tape... :)

Jay-gon Jinn
11-22-2008, 05:25 PM
you might also want to make sure that the wires to the led aren't touching the aluminum star pad at all, too. I've had that problem recently myself...I had stripped too much wire of the wire and after soldering the leads to the pads of the star, the stripped section of wire was touching the star and causing it to ground to the body of the saber.

Lord Dottore Matto
11-23-2008, 02:57 PM
I thought I would add Erv's tut here because it is VERY clear!

http://www.plecterlabs.com/Media/Doc/RechargePort.jpg

Lord Maul
11-23-2008, 05:11 PM
LDM, it's already been posted. The first reply to this thread has that tutorial :p

FenderBender
11-24-2008, 12:32 AM
Yup, I have that printed and in my build manuals. I just experienced a wierd phenomenon.

ConnorMichael
01-01-2009, 12:16 AM
Hey guys, quick question.... the diagram in post #2 says +/- to board. Is that the +/- connection from the board to the led?

Novastar
01-01-2009, 03:28 AM
No, it is to the battery leads on the board.

The entire point of the "kill" portion of the recharge + kill is that you are essentially adding a switch (of sorts) that literally cuts/breaks one of the power lines.

Battery --> Kill + Recharge --> Board --> LED

ConnorMichael
01-01-2009, 07:23 AM
Jeez...thanks man. I most have been low on coffee when I was looking at it.

Eco
03-03-2009, 04:45 PM
I'm pretty confident of this already, but I figure I'll ask just to leave nothing to chance.

The first diagram Corbin posted works for direct drive, right?

And would that allow the saber to be powered via AC even though it's DD?

Kal El Rah
03-03-2009, 11:06 PM
I'm pretty confident of this already, but I figure I'll ask just to leave nothing to chance.

The first diagram Corbin posted works for direct drive, right?

And would that allow the saber to be powered via AC even though it's DD?

NO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! DC is DC and AC is AC,, a power converter connected to the + - set a 6 volts max. would power it without a batt pack.

Eco
03-04-2009, 07:32 PM
(Note I said DD, not DC, just in case that affects your answer at all)

But, hey, that's why I asked! I'd really rather not burn out my saber.

Anyway, will that setup will work without a driver board?

Obi-Dar Ke-Gnomie
03-04-2009, 10:27 PM
(Note I said DD, not DC, just in case that affects your answer at all)

But, hey, that's why I asked! I'd really rather not burn out my saber.

Anyway, will that setup will work without a driver board?

Yes. Whether it's running off a driver board, a puck, or a resistor, you still wire the charge port the same way.

http://www.plecterlabs.com/Media/RechargePort.jpg

Just follow this picture. Replace the word "board" with "puck", and you're good to go. If you're using a resistor, then board - would simply be the - return from the LED, and the board + would go the the resistor.

As far as driving the saber on AC, like Kal El Rah said, you have to use a power converter to change from AC to DC, and bring it down to the voltage you want. Exactly how were you planning to direct drive it?

Eco
03-05-2009, 12:19 AM
Well, I've got a saber that's wired up with a 1A buckpuck and no sound.
Got the battery pack on quick-clicks, gonna take those out, hardwire the battery pack in with the recharge port.

I actually don't care at all about the AC driven thing, I was just wondering if it was really that simple.

Thanks for your help, both of you!

Obi-Dar Ke-Gnomie
03-05-2009, 07:13 AM
Well, I've got a saber that's wired up with a 1A buckpuck and no sound.
Got the battery pack on quick-clicks, gonna take those out, hardwire the battery pack in with the recharge port.

I actually don't care at all about the AC driven thing, I was just wondering if it was really that simple.

Thanks for your help, both of you!

I've got a saber with a 1A puck wired up like this. Works just fine.

As far as the AC/DC thing goes, if you found the right adapter, it could work. Almost any AC to DC adapter would work, as long as the output was within the input range for a puck. Here's a thread I remember from last year where we were talking about the same thing. The biggest issue I think, is heat dissipation, and the effects of the electronics being constantly on.

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=5222

Obi-Ben
03-06-2009, 03:13 PM
Are there any plans to sell rechargeable battery packs again?

Eco
03-11-2009, 12:00 AM
Are there any plans to sell rechargeable battery packs again?

That question belongs more in the Store Stock thread.
Here you go. (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?goto=newpost&t=2002)
:D

Eco
08-13-2009, 10:58 PM
How typical that I'm posting in this thread, right after myself...

Anyway, can the Trustfire All-in-One charger be used with a recharge port?

And... what's the thread on the recharge port?

Zook
08-14-2009, 07:09 AM
How typical that I'm posting in this thread, right after myself...

Anyway, can the Trustfire All-in-One charger be used with a recharge port?

And... what's the thread on the recharge port?

No...go to a site that sells batteries (found a couple from searches on here) and look at their chargers. You need to buy a charger for your specific voltage and MAH.

Also from searching on the board a couple of weeks ago (I needed a tap) I found an answer here in this thread (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?t=7363&highlight=recharge+port+thread) including links where to buy a tap and die.

Eco
08-14-2009, 10:59 PM
Thanks for that, Zook.

I find it somewhat odd that Tim still carries the 2.1mm adapter for the smart charger when he doesn't carry the smart charger anymore.
Probably still carries it as an adapter for the chargers at other sites...

thejedilestat
09-04-2009, 09:47 AM
ok well i have ben working on this for about 7 hrs now and i think i got it rite

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/picture.php?albumid=143&pictureid=1052


ok well this is way WAY over my head

i need a charger not adaptor my head hurts... i was trying to find a charger to work with this then i came across a Multi-Voltage AC/DC Power Transformer & Adaptor and didnt read all the way threw or think it threw that it wont charge the saber but run it off the wall plug

witch would work if that is what i was doing

Jay-gon Jinn
09-05-2009, 10:15 AM
Here is the charger Tim used to carry that will work with the 2.1mm adapter wire sold in the store:
http://www.batteryjunction.com/unsmchfornib.html

That charger is for NiMH batteries, I have one, and it works great.

jedilestat, your diagram will work fine.

thejedilestat
09-18-2009, 02:00 AM
ok i hooked a recharge port up to a hasbro econ board and the kill key worked like it should thanx to all the input in this thread...
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/picture.php?albumid=143&pictureid=1108http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/picture.php?albumid=143&pictureid=1111
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/picture.php?albumid=143&pictureid=1109

i dont have the recharge pack yet i just tested with 4 AA and AAA packs so i could get the power to cut out but ya it worked so im happy

Pullo
11-13-2009, 06:13 PM
So after reading this thread ( and getting a headache ) :wink: I think I have it. If I was looking to use a recharge port with an MR soundboard I ended up with a schematic like this. http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu220/lumeron/untitled.jpg

Any chance someone who knows could confirm this for me?

Thanks

Jay-gon Jinn
11-13-2009, 08:00 PM
Yes, that will work. Although, I will add that if you have a Luke ROTJ FX board, that you don't need to splice the speaker wire into the board/battery positive...that soundboard has it's own separate leads for the speaker.

Pullo
11-14-2009, 04:00 AM
Thanks Jay-gon, Your help is, as always, much appreciated.

thejedilestat
11-14-2009, 08:41 PM
i dont think you need the + from the recharg port to the + on the speaker but other than that it looks good to me but i havent done one with an MR

Jedi-Loreen
11-14-2009, 10:46 PM
That's what Jay-gon already said. ;)

Jay-gon Jinn
11-15-2009, 10:09 PM
i dont think you need the + from the recharg port to the + on the speaker but other than that it looks good to me but i havent done one with an MR
On every other MR board you do need to combine the battery + and speaker +, but with the Luke ROTJ (2005), Mace Windu ROTS & ATOC, and the Vader from 2003, you do not need to do it, as those boards as they have two leads for the speakers already.

Pullo
11-16-2009, 12:07 PM
Thanks all. My bad on the speaker hook up I was thinking about the other MR boards I have done.

Saarai
02-17-2010, 10:50 AM
so quick question, I'm noticing in all the diagrams I find for the recharge port that they all have a momentary switch, is that neccessary or can you use a latching switch with a recharge port?

Jedi-Loreen
02-17-2010, 11:20 AM
Really? Not the all the diagrams I've seen.

Like this one, it has a latching slide switch:

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu220/lumeron/untitled.jpg

I'm not sure why you think it would matter which switch you use with a recharge port. The switch is dependent on the type of board you use. You can use a recharge port with any board, or even just a direct drive saber.

Saarai
02-17-2010, 11:42 AM
Ahh ok. Still learning...., I was going by the few schematics I've seen, the ones in this post, and one in another, both said momenatry on the switch not latching so I wasn't sure if there was something regarding that. Thanks, this diagram actually is alot closer to what I'm looking to do.

Jedi-Loreen
02-17-2010, 02:08 PM
I guess most of the diagrams you've seen are for sabers using the Hasbro Econo boards, those all use momentary switches.

The diagram I reposted above was from the page right before this. I guess you missed it.

Saarai
02-17-2010, 04:29 PM
yeah I did thank you.

wait I just noticed, so the hasbro boards do need the momentary not the latching then?

Lord Maul
02-17-2010, 11:02 PM
Yes, Hasbros (cheapy ones) need a momentary switch. The Hasbro FX sabers take a latching though.

Saarai
02-18-2010, 05:17 AM
Ah ha I see. So then since I think my wife is going to surprise me with one a those I'm gonna have to get a momentary switch then. Thanks.

Storm Sunfire
08-28-2010, 12:12 AM
TCSS doesn't have those battery packs in the store anywhere that I could see. I want one, but where do I go/ how do I make one. Also does that pack save space compared to the spring type plastic battery holder?

Lord Maul
08-28-2010, 12:20 AM
There's a thread in this board called "battery pack making". Follow that to build a pack. It saves a bit of space as compared to a plastic battery holder.

RevengeoftheSeth
08-28-2010, 04:24 PM
I really really like the 2 AA size holder with the speaker and sound board mount. Huge space saver.

Storm Sunfire
08-29-2010, 10:20 AM
I do the 2 AA holder with the board epoxied to it and the speaker on the bottom with Tim's speaker mount. I like the set up, but if I use a battery pack then could I put a recharge port on the opposite side of the sound card? (that's my hope since I have little vertical space in my saber.)

Jedi Ranger
10-03-2010, 10:32 PM
Nope. The charge port goes too deep into the hilt.

Darth Scorn
08-16-2011, 12:51 AM
Is there a schematic that shows how to hook up accent leds to a MR/Hasbro anikan rots board, that will activate when the kill key is pulled?

Skottsaber
08-16-2011, 04:48 AM
Just wire the LED from the + and board - of the recharge port with the appropriate resistor.

Darth Scorn
08-16-2011, 03:45 PM
So just hook it directly to the recharge port?

Skottsaber
08-17-2011, 02:26 AM
Yes, but make sure that you have it on the negative wire that is going to your electonics, not your battery. This will make sure that the LED will only turn on when the kill key is pulled.

Darth Scorn
08-17-2011, 08:11 PM
Cool thank you

Gilraen Took
02-11-2012, 11:51 AM
I've been browsing the forums for a while now, and while I plan to keep my first saber the simple design(so I can make sure I can solder wires without frying them before I try anything too involved) I knew from the start that I wanted a recharge port with it. I was just wondering if this is the proper wiring configuration for a plain resistor driven led saber, or if I needed to change anything. (On my little diagram I switched the battery- and the board- pins just so I would be able to leave the chart looking a little cleaner.)

6418

Also, how do you figure out what sort of a charger to get? Since the store doesn't seem to have packs for sale anymore(at least not that I could find while searching) I had one made at a local battery store. The information I was given with it says that I've got a 4.8V NiMH pack, and I was told that I should get a 6V 100-200 mah charger. Also, he didn't put any sort of pci onto the pack and said that the NiMH batteries don't need them. Seems like the smart charger from the store would be my best bet(since that is one of the sort you plug into your wall outlet and then into the recharge port, correct?) but I thought I should ask before I ended up with the wrong thing.

Thank you in advance for the help :)

LAN-ED-TUL
02-11-2012, 01:25 PM
i went down to the hobby store and since i at that time was getting batt packs for my rock crawler and needed a charger, i got a prophet legacy charger, it charges whatever nimh pack you got, i also have a lightsaber i built that has a old TCSS triangle shaped batt pack, the SHOP doesnt SELL anymore, which the SHOP needs to go back to selling PACKS again like before. anyways, the prophet charger, with the TCSS 2.1 charger adaptor they STILL sell, plugs right onto the charger clip, then it plugs right into the recharge port. i charge mine at the 1 amp charge rate, yah takes longer but pack doesnt heat up as much, its a trickle like charge

demep
04-25-2012, 03:51 PM
Thanks that really helps, it's easy when
You know how ! :)

spits79
02-23-2013, 01:07 PM
Hello,

Forgive the electronic noob question but I have a general question about the how the circuit is connected/broken with the recharge port. So my knowledge of electronics goes as far to know that you need a circuit for electronics to work, positive connected to negative.

So in the actual recharge socket itself there is a the center male pin which I think is connected to the positive pin on the back of the socket. It stands to reason that for the circuit to work with nothing in the socket then by default this has to be physically connected to the female section of the recharge socket which I believe is connected to the negative pin on the back of the socket. That's fine but regardless of what the 3rd second negative is connected to how can inserting a non-conductive peg into this socket break this circuit

Skottsaber
02-23-2013, 01:49 PM
It's similar to how when you actuate a switch, the plunger pushes two conductive plates together to make an electrical contact between them, allowing electricity to flow.
In a recharge port, there are three contacts. The first two are recharge port inputs, that is to say the positive and negative connections (to the battery in lightsaber usage). Then there is a third pin that, when a plug is inserted, breaks a connection between that and one of the input pins (for our uses this is the negative input). This connection is made again when a plug isn't inserted - allowing your electronics connected to that pin to receive power from the battery.
The reason for this is explained in the original post: it allows you to cut power to your saber's electronics during charging, and with a non-conductive plug it allows you to cut off power to your saber's electronics between uses.
For the physical process which occurs inside the recharge port to cut the power, I'm afraid I can't answer that. Perhaps you could take a plug apart in order to reverse engineer the process.

spits79
02-23-2013, 03:23 PM
Ahhh ok I've finally wrapped my head around it... I ended up having to do little diagram to get it right in my head

So 3 pins on the port: positive (+), negative (-) and switching negative (-)
So no pin (default position): the 2 negatives pins are joined together
8334

When a pin is inserted the link between the 2 negatives is broken...
Non-conductive pin inserted: + and - pins are connected to the inserted pin but since non conductive no circuit created
8335
Recharger/conductive pin plugged in : Same as the latter but the pin provides a circuit between the + and - pins
8336

jcook1023
02-24-2013, 12:10 AM
hey i've been reading this thread but wanted to just post and make sure i have everything straight here... if i wanted to add a recharge port to a saber, i'd need to drill a 5/16" hole to use this guy here (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/21mm-Power-Jack-P37.aspx). along with that, i'd want to ideally use a 4.8V setup but i'm not readily seeing a premade pack for that so if i got a 4xAAA pack and rigged that up with 1.2V NiMH cells, with the + from both the battery pack and my soundboard going to the terminal and the - from my battery pack and soundboard going to the terminal, right? but now here's where i'm a bit on the confused side...how do i do that using the nano biscotte? cuz everything is like, LED +/- speaker +/- etc... beyond that 5/16" hole and jack, i'd use the 2.1mm plug adapter and the NiMH charger...anything i'm missing? i have a saberforge saber that i bought on ebay for cheap, but to have him wire it up he's asking $140 (which isn't terrible since it'd be with a neutrino board, the charger, and replacing the mom switch with a lighted av switch, including shipping) so i figure if i can do it on my own, i'm better off (although i do need to send it in for a repair, as the pommel doesn't screw on correctly..think it's worth just having him do it and me do this setup on another build?)

spits79
02-24-2013, 04:33 AM
I'm actually looking at doing the same thing and I think this should be how you should wire the NB:

8339

I would definitely not take my word for it as I am brand spanking new to this too but I am pretty sure this is correct.

jcook1023
03-01-2013, 09:40 AM
spits - have you tried that wiring yet?

Jay-gon Jinn
03-01-2013, 10:30 AM
I'm actually looking at doing the same thing and I think this should be how you should wire the NB:

8339

I would definitely not take my word for it as I am brand spanking new to this too but I am pretty sure this is correct.That is correct, and should work fine for your set up.

spits79
03-01-2013, 11:53 AM
Nah I've not tried it yet. I've not ordered parts yet and I am in the UK too so when I do it will be weeks before I get it. :)

spits79
03-30-2013, 10:50 AM
I'm actually looking at doing the same thing and I think this should be how you should wire the NB:

8339

I would definitely not take my word for it as I am brand spanking new to this too but I am pretty sure this is correct.

I realise this might be a little old now but I finally ordered and build a saber. I followed the diagram I posted and much to my own surprise it bloody well work... whoo-hoo. Anyway I just figured I would put this in for any other following the wanted to know the exact way to setup a NB

ZombieWrangler
07-30-2013, 01:22 PM
I've read this whole thread and several others and I'm still confused.

I just want to be able the charge the saber without unscrewing the pommel and removing the 2 14500 batteries. I know eventually the wires will be bent so many times they will break. I don't want a kill key, and I'm not going to run it off the wall adapter.

I have a 7.2v /.5A charger like the one shown in this thread (and avail at TCSS (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/37V-148V-Li-Ion-Smart-charger-P129.aspx)) and bought the port adapter that plugs onto the charger (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/21mm-plug-adapter-for-smart-charger-P36.aspx). I don't understand why I can't just splice in the charging port on the red and black battery wires?

Do I need to bother with that 3rd terminal?

GFJedi
07-30-2013, 01:52 PM
I've read this whole thread and several others and I'm still confused.

I just want to be able the charge the saber without unscrewing the pommel and removing the 2 14500 batteries. I know eventually the wires will be bent so many times they will break. I don't want a kill key, and I'm not going to run it off the wall adapter.

I have a 7.2v /.5A charger like the one shown in this thread (and avail at TCSS (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/37V-148V-Li-Ion-Smart-charger-P129.aspx)) and bought the port adapter that plugs onto the charger (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/21mm-plug-adapter-for-smart-charger-P36.aspx). I don't understand why I can't just splice in the charging port on the red and black battery wires?

Do I need to bother with that 3rd terminal?

Think of the port like a normally closed switch. The two poles for ground are connected when nothing is plugged into the port. When something is plugged into the port, the ground is open. This is a safety feature to isolate the battery for recharging. Technically if you are using a latching switch for a stunt saber, you 'could' get away with not using all 3 poles and just wiring the battery to the port, but if you accidentally turn on the saber while plugged in, you risk damaging things. With a soundboard it's necessary to use all 3 poles to isolate the battery from the soundboard when plugging it in to recharge. It's no harder to use all 3 poles on the port than trying to bypass it like you want to do.

Silver Serpent
07-30-2013, 01:54 PM
It's much better if you do. When the saber is plugged in and charging, you only want power flowing to the battery pack and not the rest of the saber. The kill key setup will automatically cut power to your saber's electronics while the batteries are being charged. That way, you don't risk the li-ion charger accidentally cooking your sound board.

You don't need to actually use a kill key if you don't want to.

andyfairall
03-31-2014, 02:20 PM
Wiring up a new saber and this is the first time I am using a buckpuck. I have the MWS version and I plan on having a AV switch in it and I would like the switch led to be on all the time, kinda like a power indicator. So I was going with a recharge port kill key set up and I am having a hard time figuring out where exactly to wire to. The MWS buckpuck has a B+ and B- as well as R+ and R-. Looks like the R- goes straight to B-. So with the standard kill key setup where Do I wire the Bat- and Board- pins or will the pcb on the buckpuck kill the power when the kill key is put in. Or do I need to ignore the R ports on the puck and wire straight like the recharge port diagram.

9714

Came up with this after posting, anyone see any problems?

Strydur
03-31-2014, 05:05 PM
Depends.. if you have all MWS parts then go battery>recharge port>buckpuck. For the AV switch LED just plug it into the recharge port terminals on the buckpuck and it will be on anytime the kill key is pulled.

afrojedi
06-25-2014, 08:16 PM
so is there a wire diagram for the PCv3 using a recharge port and kill key with a tri rebel RGB and 2 av switches with a led ring each, (i have added 2 dyna-ohm resistors for the leds) my confusion is around how to rig the battery to the recharge port utilising a kill key (style 5 gold)

based on the information I have gather you have the recharge port connected to the speaker and batter on one terminal and the other terminal to the soundboard? schematics would help and I have wishlist here (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/ViewWishlist.aspx?WishlistId=30776)

I know you don't ship your li ion battery packs so I'm going to need to source that else where (if you do ship to Australia that will be great).

afrojedi
06-25-2014, 08:37 PM
I thought to myself "just download the PIB you N00b".

TheSilverDark
07-01-2014, 02:54 PM
Depends.. if you have all MWS parts then go battery>recharge port>buckpuck.

Tim, do u then connect the buck puck directly to the switch (using a standard switch, not AV) and then the led? MWS has thoroughly confused me....

Forgetful Jedi Knight
07-01-2014, 03:02 PM
Tim, do u then connect the buck puck directly to the switch (using a standard switch, not AV) and then the led? MWS has thoroughly confused me....

If you follow the directions in the 1000 mA BuckPuck description it tells you where to connect things. To add the recharge port connect the "to board" part of the recharge port to the BuckPuck, and the "battery" part to the battery pack.

TheSilverDark
07-01-2014, 03:08 PM
Danke Shon

simi
09-26-2014, 03:00 AM
Hello I was hoping someone could tell me if this wiring diagram is correct or not.
10481

Silver Serpent
09-26-2014, 04:57 AM
If you wire it that way, you won't be able to turn the accent LED off. It will stay on all the time, even with the kill key inserted.

I would move the accent LED negative so that it connects between your main LED negative and the recharge port. Then the accent LED will be on all the time, but you can turn it off with the kill key.

If you want the accent LED to turn on and off with the blade, you'll need to do the above, AND move the accent LED positive to the other side of the switch (between the switch and the main LED resistor).

simi
09-26-2014, 05:56 AM
If you wire it that way, you won't be able to turn the accent LED off. It will stay on all the time, even with the kill key inserted.

I would move the accent LED negative so that it connects between your main LED negative and the recharge port. Then the accent LED will be on all the time, but you can turn it off with the kill key.

If you want the accent LED to turn on and off with the blade, you'll need to do the above, AND move the accent LED positive to the other side of the switch (between the switch and the main LED resistor).

Is this correct?
10482

Silver Serpent
09-26-2014, 07:07 AM
Yes. The switch LED and main blade LED will turn on/off together, and a kill key in the recharge port will turn off everything. Be sure that switch is a latching switch or that you have the momentary-to-latching converter.

Miraluka
02-07-2015, 09:31 PM
So... I always see people using the rechargeable packs with the JST connectors on them. Are those wired in some magical way that makes them better? I'm wondering if it's a horrible idea to hook up a recharge port to an 18650 holder rather than a rechargeable "pack". Is there a disadvantage to that? Seems like it would be convenient to have the option to plug your saber in, while also having the option to switch out the battery instead of waiting for it to recharge.

I tried to search this question out but I had no idea how to word it correctly. -_-

Jay-gon Jinn
02-08-2015, 09:24 AM
Yes, there is an advantage to not using the holder....holders are spring contact, and hard impacts on the saber can cause the battery to momentarily lose contact, rebooting the sound board. Using a battery with the JST connector and an opposite JST on the recharge port will still allow you to remove and replace a depleted battery if you want the option.

Miraluka
02-09-2015, 12:10 AM
Thanks. That makes sense. I just wanted to know if there was some reason that you couldn't do it, or if people just preferred not to.

iainm
02-21-2015, 02:01 AM
This is an excellent tutorial. I've been scouring this and other sites for tutorials on how to connect all the parts for my saber. I still don't know how and where to attach the ready-wired latching switch with LED I bought from TCSS. Please show me how to wire these parts together: 3.7 Volt battery, Green Rebel Star, resistor, recharge port, pre-wired Long Latching Switch.

I live on the other side of the world from you guys. With a minimum of $50 shipping costs mistakes are expensive to correct. I have read all the "Noobs please read" material. It was good for my first, simple sabers, but does not help with something as complex as this.

Got some help from my step son, a nuclear physicist. The LED works. The LED in the latching switch works. But when you put them all together the main LED does not work. Is the latching switch AC? It says AC on the side, but that might be part of the serial number. It could be as simple as the on/off switch being defective. Will need to try other basic switches to verify this. But HOW do I connect the latching switch to the circuit? What am I missing?



Thanks

Silver Serpent
02-21-2015, 09:08 AM
We'd need to see your wiring diagram to troubleshoot your issue. That being said, with the components you have listed, you won't be able to just plug things together. The prewired latching switch is designed to hook up to a sound board or a prewired BuckPuck.

You can still make it work, but you'll need to break out your soldering iron. Try to make up a wiring diagram, and we'll take a look at it. Or search the boards for wiring diagrams. There are many available.

JoeEatsZombie
01-06-2016, 03:33 AM
i have looked threw this thread and i dont know if my question is being answered but
im following this build all the same components
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pOpUSCsXXhk&index=4&list=FLjm9kbu6R8aP7sjJBPuNbPg
except i would like to use a av switch. seeing as how this build is for a removable 18650 and not a wired rechargeable
id like assistance on how to adapt a av switch with a kill key seeing as how the switch led would always be on . i dont need this to recharge i just need it to kill powere is there any diagram or tutorial that follows this

Jay-gon Jinn
01-06-2016, 10:24 AM
The switch led doesn't always have to be on, if you wire it correctly. Use the appropriate resistor for your battery source and wire the switch led in parallel with the blade led. This will make the switch led only light up when the blade is lit.

JoeEatsZombie
01-07-2016, 12:41 AM
The switch led doesn't always have to be on, if you wire it correctly. Use the appropriate resistor for your battery source and wire the switch led in parallel with the blade led. This will make the switch led only light up when the blade is lit. i got that a similar answer to a slightly unrelated question from tcss . i think i might go this route . its seems like less trouble then wiring and drilling the hilt for a power jack that's only function is a kill port.
i only realized now though that if i have the switch led in parallel with the blade led that id need one resister instead of two.
i knew the individual resisters id need but i dont know which one id need now that the plan has changed. do you happen to know off hand which resister id need for this build . i am using luxeon rebel star lime and a 12mm av green.
and would you know of an existing thread that has the schematic for this particular build on a nano b.

Miraluka
01-07-2016, 12:45 AM
Rather than using a recharge port exclusively for a kill key, why not just use a little latching kill switch?

JoeEatsZombie
01-07-2016, 12:56 AM
that doent seem like a bad idea either . i think for this build i might just run the 2 leds in parallel these are my fist 2 sabers im building
but defiantly not my last i might try that on my next build. how ever with my experience with my saberforge acolyte its ever too easy to just bush the button while holding it id hate to have an exposed latching switch that will kill the power while im swinging it around

Miraluka
01-07-2016, 01:03 AM
Well, there are options like slide switches or rotary switches that wouldn't be so easy to accidentally bump off but whatever you've comfortable with. :smile:

JoeEatsZombie
01-07-2016, 01:12 AM
ill defiantly look in to it this wont be my last build and it sounds like a great idea
by chance do you happen to know the answer to my previous question to the resister strength

Miraluka
01-07-2016, 01:28 AM
Have a look at this (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?17109-Tutorial-FJK-s-quot-Down-and-Dirty-quot-guide-to-Ohm-s-Law&highlight=ohms). ;)

Avidgrant
01-30-2016, 12:37 PM
Super new here, and maybe I missed it..... But isn't there an easier way / more streamlined way/ better way/ alternate way to do this. There are micro usb magnet charging options out on the market- which would be super slick (imho). Would it be possible to use something like that as opposed to this whole kill key/recharge port thing? I would think there should be some way, be it a small switch/toggle/ or maybe something how it's wired that would allow this? This way we could recharge potentially from not only a usb to micro feeding from ac, but even one of those usb recharge packs that you can get for your phone- while out and about with a short cable..... Or am I missing something critical?

Jay-gon Jinn
01-31-2016, 12:42 PM
Not all lightsabers run on a 3.7v battery like a smart phone does...some require a 7.4v battery, and you can't use a usb port on a pc or a phone charger for that (5v output). For a 3.7volt powered saber, it's certainly possible.

krog7d7
03-01-2016, 06:12 PM
Not all lightsabers run on a 3.7v battery like a smart phone does...some require a 7.4v battery, and you can't use a usb port on a pc or a phone charger for that (5v output). For a 3.7volt powered saber, it's certainly possible.

Sorry if a lame question, sooooo, if you're using a 3.7v battery, you can use a micro usb port as the charge port? and it won't need a kill switch?

Thanks!

Ken

avolakia
03-12-2016, 05:08 AM
Please need help with econo blade builders sound board i installed a charge port, where I must wire accent led for that will activate when the kill key is pulled?

Thanks a lot

Basie
04-11-2018, 07:05 AM
Hi guys. Quick question, would there be any issues with hooking up a recharge port using 30 gauge wire? I know the prizm manual reccomends 28, just curious about 30.

Silver Serpent
04-11-2018, 07:21 AM
Depends on your expected current load. If you're doing a standard in-hilt LED star setup, you should be fine with 30. If you're planning on running a Neopixel setup, then you could run into problems.

Basie
04-11-2018, 07:32 AM
Depends on your expected current load. If you're doing a standard in-hilt LED star setup, you should be fine with 30. If you're planning on running a Neopixel setup, then you could run into problems.

Cheers, running a standard set up. Prizm v4 with an xp e2 (g,g,rb). All powered by an in built 18650, so nothing too fancy by todays standards.

jbkuma
04-11-2018, 07:41 AM
Just a quick note on this:
The + side will only typically see current relative to the charge current, so something definitely under 2A, probably under 1A.
The - sides will both see full load current since the terminals bridge to make your power connection to your hilt. This should always match your load requirements.

Also of note, at least the Switchcraft manufactured jacks are only rated for 5A. Cheaper knock offs are likely rated for less or lack a rating at all.

erazer
08-04-2018, 02:12 PM
Dumb question i guess but as I have a NCR 18650 with a 3rd white wire as NTC thermistor, is it of any use to connect it to the recharge port too, if yes where do i have to solder it to or do i just cut it short and ignore it?

Silver Serpent
08-06-2018, 04:49 AM
You should be able to safely ignore that third wire.