Nano Biscotte v4 versus Prizm v5.1

[brad813]

I am in the process of building a saber with sound, and am looking at the Nano Biscotte v4 and the Prizm v5.1. What are the differences between the two, and in particular, how will it affect FoC. i am looking to do a Orange blade with a yellow flash on clash, and need to make sure the cards can handle what I am trying to do. This is mostly just a costume piece for cosplay(Former Jedi Sentinel turned Grey Jedi) and not really something for serious dueling, but I still want it to look right. If anyone can help point me in the right direction here, it would be most appreciated.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

The Prizm is basically "the big brother" of the NB, and as such, has more features. The Prizm also uses an Auxiliary button to access said features, while the NB only supports 1 button.

[brad813]

The Prizm is basically "the big brother" of the NB, and as such, has more features. The Prizm also uses an Auxiliary button to access said features, while the NB only supports 1 button.

Thank you. I wasn't quite sure if the extra money would have been worth it for my purposes. From my understanding of your answer, it seems like it would be. This is my first custom build(I will be doing a second later to dual wield with), but am going to also be making a couple as gifts for friends, so you have been most helpful.

[Warlock]

Biggest thing would be the Prizm will support a RICE connection which will allow you to connect to and make changes to your saber's settings without removing the SD card. Also if you use an RGB LED you can dial in the exact color you want. The AUX switch will allow you to have blaster deflect sounds and lock up sounds.

But otherwise both boards can perform to what you stated.

[Tom Tilmon]

Even with all the aforementioned features of Prism, if this is your first saber build there are some other reasons to use the nano (NBIV).

1. Easier to wire, bigger pads..further away from sensitive electronics (except for the DS pad, that one is a bugger)
2. If you do mess one up, they are cheaper to replace.
3. Its a solid simple board, and not much to really go wrong if you keep your plan solid.

whereas, if you decide to wire up a Prism, you have upped the scale of difficulty quite a bit, and for that reason on your first build, I'd recommend a NBIV.

Tom

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Even with all the aforementioned features of Prism, if this is your first saber build there are some other reasons to use the nano (NBIV).

1. Easier to wire, bigger pads..further away from sensitive electronics (except for the DS pad, that one is a bugger)
2. If you do mess one up, they are cheaper to replace.
3. Its a solid simple board, and not much to really go wrong if you keep your plan solid.

whereas, if you decide to wire up a Prism, you have upped the scale of difficulty quite a bit, and for that reason on your first build, I'd recommend a NBIV.

Tom

He can have his boards repaired if he happens to screw them up that badly. ;)

[bigkevin61]

With a Prizm 5.1, like mentioned before, you will probably want to go with a RGB tri-led setup. RICE is an excellent option for adjusting the color of your main blade, and FOC.

With that being said, depending on what kind of orange you want as your main color, you can use a custom tri-led to get your orange blade and yellow FOC.

Read the “Flash on ClashTM Mixing Techniques” section of the NB 4 manual, to get an idea of how that would work.

I made my son an orange main blade using a red and amber die in parallel (the link to that saber is in my signature). I’d describe it as “Orange pop colored” (as in Sunkist brand).
I used a white die, in an “on top” FOC setup so the white die washes out the orange (basically all dice on at once).

Just another option to consider!

[brad813]

With a Prizm 5.1, like mentioned before, you will probably want to go with a RGB tri-led setup. RICE is an excellent option for adjusting the color of your main blade, and FOC.

With that being said, depending on what kind of orange you want as your main color, you can use a custom tri-led to get your orange blade and yellow FOC.

Read the “Flash on ClashTM Mixing Techniques” section of the NB 4 manual, to get an idea of how that would work.

I made my son an orange main blade using a red and amber die in parallel (the link to that saber is in my signature). I’d describe it as “Orange pop colored” (as in Sunkist brand).
I used a white die, in an “on top” FOC setup so the white die washes out the orange (basically all dice on at once).

Just another option to consider!

I am leaning towards more of a reddish orange at the moment, but it would be nice to be able to adjust it slightly as needed. Nice looking hilt, btw. Are the orange sections the Jollipop Copper?

[bigkevin61]

Nice looking hilt, btw. Are the orange sections the Jollipop Copper?

Thanks! I was playing around in the MHS builder, and it just happened, and I was like, “there it is!”

And yes, those sections are Jollipop Orange. One of the better looking powder coats, if you ask me!
It is a translucent powdercoat, meaning the condition of the surface before coating effects the look after.
The 0.75” extension by the pommel is quite shiny, as the outside of the part is relatively reflective as is (before powder), whereas the fluted section where the switch box resides, is a bit more muted, as the milling process in making the flutes leaves them slightly rough (very minor tool marks).

[bigkevin61]

I am leaning towards more of a reddish orange at the moment, but it would be nice to be able to adjust it slightly as needed.

Of course a PRIZM with an RGB will give you a easy way of adjusting / changing colors, but if you would still be interested in using a Nano Biscotte, check out Madcow’s custom color tutorial here (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?18443-Video-Custom-Colors-Made-Simple&highlight=Madcow).

[brad813]

Thanks! I was playing around in the MHS builder, and it just happened, and I was like, “there it is!”

And yes, those sections are Jollipop Orange. One of the better looking powder coats, if you ask me!
It is a translucent powdercoat, meaning the condition of the surface before coating effects the look after.
The 0.75” extension by the pommel is quite shiny, as the outside of the part is relatively reflective as is (before powder), whereas the fluted section where the switch box resides, is a bit more muted, as the milling process in making the flutes leaves them slightly rough (very minor tool marks).

Thanks. Been looking at getting this one primarily in this color, so it's nice to see that it will be exactly what I had in mind.

[brad813]

Of course a PRIZM with an RGB will give you a easy way of adjusting / changing colors, but if you would still be interested in using a Nano Biscotte, check out Madcow’s custom color tutorial here (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?18443-Video-Custom-Colors-Made-Simple&highlight=Madcow).

I have watched that one, and understand the resistor method quite well, aside from how you get foc in a mixed color from it.

[bigkevin61]

I have watched that one, and understand the resistor method quite well, aside from how you get foc in a mixed color from it.

So, first off, I’d like to apologize. I have worked primarily with NB 2.0, NB 3.0, and Crystal a focus boards.

I didn’t realize the NB 4 had the ability to “mix” an RGB led in a way similar to a PRIZM. (The older NB boards would need the mixing tricks in Madcows Video, or even stunt setups).

So, if you are using a NB 4 or a PRIZM 5.1, a 3.7v Battery, and a RGrB Tri-Cree (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/RedGreenRoyal-Blue-Cree-XP-E2-CopperNova-P1016.aspx), Here is the setup I came up with for your colors:

The goal of the resistor is to define the maximum current for a LED die, not to mix the color of the blade. (Soundcard manual)
If you were to use these colors in you blade with Red wired to L1, Green to L2, an Royal Blue to L3 (through a PEX for the NB 4), you would need these resistor(s)/settings:
Red would need a (3.7v-2.65vf)/1A=1.05ohm or 1ohm-2w-resistor (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/1ohm-2w-resistor-P21.aspx).
Green would need a (3.7v-3.7vf)/1A=0ohm resistor . It is best practice to put some limit on current (just in case), and you can do so by adjusting the “drive” and “fdrive” parameters. In is case the value of 1023 = no current limit (or 100% from the battery, which can vary in it’s actual voltage) you can set the value at 98%, or 1003 to be safe. (I.E. never go above 1003 as a value)
Royal Blue would need a (3.7v-3.4vf)/1A=0.3ohm resistor. Once again you can use the “drive” and “fdrive” parameters. Set it at 1023*(3.4/3.7)=940 (or 92%). (I.E. never go above 940 as a value)

A rough color guide in the Soundcard manual suggests a “drive” setting of “drive=1023,255,0” or 100% Red, 25% Green, 0% rBlue for an Orange Main Blade Color.
A rough color guide in the Soundcard manual suggests a “fdrive” setting of “fdrive=1023,1003,0” or 100% Red, 98% Green (as that is the max without a resistor in the circuit), 0% rBlue for a Yellow FOC Blade Color. (The swaps out the Orange, and replaces it with Yellow for the FOC flashes).

The section in the NB 4 manual, “FOC mixing Techniques” looks to be explaining how to have the FOC more dynamic, which with your color choices, is not needed (you can ignore that section for an Orange Main Blade and Yellow FOC using the configuration above).

Changing drive and fdrive values is not the most efficient process (remove the SD card, change values, return the SD card), nor the most accurate (linear drive of battery voltage, is NOT a current regulator), but I’m sure you can get it to work, opposed to upgrading to a more expensive sound card with the “color extender” add-on board.

You could do the same logic for a custom tri-Cree, resistoring (or max drive values) and then tweak the drive values to get the colors you like.

[rlobrecht]

I think you've gotten all the answers you are looking for, but ...

Plecter Labs has a comparison table (http://plecterlabs.com/Media/Doc/CompareBoards/plecter_boards.php) of all their boards.

[brad813]

I think you've gotten all the answers you are looking for, but ...

Plecter Labs has a comparison table (http://plecterlabs.com/Media/Doc/CompareBoards/plecter_boards.php) of all their boards.

I have but thank you.

[brad813]

So, first off, I’d like to apologize. I have worked primarily with NB 2.0, NB 3.0, and Crystal a focus boards.

I didn’t realize the NB 4 had the ability to “mix” an RGB led in a way similar to a PRIZM. (The older NB boards would need the mixing tricks in Madcows Video, or even stunt setups).

So, if you are using a NB 4 or a PRIZM 5.1, a 3.7v Battery, and a RGrB Tri-Cree (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/RedGreenRoyal-Blue-Cree-XP-E2-CopperNova-P1016.aspx), Here is the setup I came up with for your colors:

The goal of the resistor is to define the maximum current for a LED die, not to mix the color of the blade. (Soundcard manual)
If you were to use these colors in you blade with Red wired to L1, Green to L2, an Royal Blue to L3 (through a PEX for the NB 4), you would need these resistor(s)/settings:
Red would need a (3.7v-2.65vf)/1A=1.05ohm or 1ohm-2w-resistor (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/1ohm-2w-resistor-P21.aspx).
Green would need a (3.7v-3.7vf)/1A=0ohm resistor . It is best practice to put some limit on current (just in case), and you can do so by adjusting the “drive” and “fdrive” parameters. In is case the value of 1023 = no current limit (or 100% from the battery, which can vary in it’s actual voltage) you can set the value at 98%, or 1003 to be safe. (I.E. never go above 1003 as a value)
Royal Blue would need a (3.7v-3.4vf)/1A=0.3ohm resistor. Once again you can use the “drive” and “fdrive” parameters. Set it at 1023*(3.4/3.7)=940 (or 92%). (I.E. never go above 940 as a value)

A rough color guide in the Soundcard manual suggests a “drive” setting of “drive=1023,255,0” or 100% Red, 25% Green, 0% rBlue for an Orange Main Blade Color.
A rough color guide in the Soundcard manual suggests a “fdrive” setting of “fdrive=1023,1003,0” or 100% Red, 98% Green (as that is the max without a resistor in the circuit), 0% rBlue for a Yellow FOC Blade Color. (The swaps out the Orange, and replaces it with Yellow for the FOC flashes).

The section in the NB 4 manual, “FOC mixing Techniques” looks to be explaining how to have the FOC more dynamic, which with your color choices, is not needed (you can ignore that section for an Orange Main Blade and Yellow FOC using the configuration above).

Changing drive and fdrive values is not the most efficient process (remove the SD card, change values, return the SD card), nor the most accurate (linear drive of battery voltage, is NOT a current regulator), but I’m sure you can get it to work, opposed to upgrading to a more expensive sound card with the “color extender” add-on board.

You could do the same logic for a custom tri-Cree, resistoring (or max drive values) and then tweak the drive values to get the colors you like.

It was certainly easier when NB didn't have the color mix. You knew which to choose if you needed certain features then. Just found out about that myself. I chose a subtler flash on clash because it seemed like it would be more realistic than a full white shift.