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View Full Version : Wiring diagram: stunt saber w/internal recharge port



Thanamira
01-25-2018, 03:14 PM
Hey, gang.
I have a bunch of Ultrasabers that I'd like to convert from AAAs to 18650s, with an internal recharge port. "Internal", meaning, I'll still pop off the pommel and slide out the battery/port chassis to expose the port. (I'd rather do that then drill a hole in the hilts - I don't want a permanently exposed port.)

I put together a parts list I'll need per hilt upgrade: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1hendDYPh8Ckm6-ZPINucxmD2AIDmbJ4BJEx232EUg-E/edit?usp=sharing

I have a few questions listed as footnotes on that list:
1, am I correct in thinking that US' 4*AAA setup delivers 6V to their stunt setups, and thus I'll need a 7.4V 18650 and not the 3.7V 18650s?
2, do the chassis parts have a 1.45" ID option? Only a few of my hilts are 1.25" ID. I don't mind wrapping tiny pieces of electrical tape around the chassis parts, but if I can get them at the correct size, so much the better. :)

For wiring, I looked at http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?2235-Recharge-port-hookup but I think that has dead image links inside it.
I tried to figure out which pins are which via http://www.switchcraft.com/Drawings/712a_cd.pdf but I'm not seeing what I'm looking for there. That PDF is linked from http://www.switchcraft.com/productsummary.aspx?Parent=606 btw, which I'm not totally sure is what TCSS is selling. Either way, I think that kind of schematic is what I want, and it's my lack of schematic reading that's failing me.

Here's my current understanding of my wiring setup already inside my Ultrasabers with the upgrades I want. I could use help with both my starting assumptions in this diagram and how to finish the wiring. If I haven't completely forgotten my basic EE courses, I think the Switch and JST male GND leads are wired together to one of the jack's pins and similarly the PWR leads are wired together to a different pin: in normal operation, this bypasses the jack entirely. In recharging, the Switch in OFF position cuts the LED/buckpuck out of the circuit, and only the battery is involved.
So then my research needs to be:
1, on the jack, what pin gets PWR and what pin gets GND?
2, wire the JST male accordingly to PWR and GND
3, wire the Switch's leads to match with the JST male.

But I'm a software engineer, sooooo this is where I ask others. :)

Thanks in advance for any help!

16274

PCModulus
01-25-2018, 04:12 PM
First, the 4 AAA's are probably resisted from the 6V, you dont "need" 6V to power the LED.
Second, since theres no sound card, you can use a di-pole charge port wired right to the battery, assuming the switch is a latching switch which would isolate the rest of the circuit so it doesnt get powered when charging.

Thanamira
01-25-2018, 04:14 PM
Yes, the switch is latching. Sorry, should've mentioned that.

Does TCSS sell di-pole charging ports? I only see the tri-pole version. (I mean, I'd rather give my money to TCSS and get something that "everyone" uses, rather than trailblaze on my own. :) )

PCModulus
01-25-2018, 05:20 PM
No, but they are all over eBay for good prices. I mean, if you already have it, or are going to place an order with TCSS, then get theirs to save on shipping.

bigkevin61
01-25-2018, 08:58 PM
You can use the 3 post RC post sold at the TCSS store.
No need for a 2 post version (which would work if you wired it in parallel to the led circuit from the battery).

Hopefully this is legible (pics from my iPad sometimes come out at worse resolution on the forum).

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PCModulus
01-26-2018, 07:08 AM
You can use the 3 post RC post sold at the TCSS store.
No need for a 2 post version (which would work if you wired it in parallel to the led circuit from the battery).

Hopefully this is legible (pics from my iPad sometimes come out at worse resolution on the forum).

16277

The only problem, with that is, the battery neg never gets to the circuit. You would still wire parallel as with a di-pole connector.

bigkevin61
01-26-2018, 02:22 PM
PCModulus, I’m confused when you say the battery negative never get to the circuit.
The post of the RC port with the grey line heading to the switch is the negative to the battery.

I’ve used the RC port sold in the store in this exact configuration before.

From the Plecter Lab manuals, there is picture that diagrams the RC port wiring.
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The text below clearly states how the RC port functions.

PCModulus
01-26-2018, 05:01 PM
Oh geez nvm. Blame it on the fact i didnt have a Snickers today. :oops: