Hoping I have it right.

[Paedryn]

This is an updated wiring schematic I have been sweating over. I made a few changes that I was recommended to do by other members.

My build is a Pico Crumble with a 16mm AV Illuminated Latching and a recharge port. I am planning to use a 18650 Li-Ion 3.7v 2600mA battery, 2w 28mm Bass speaker, a Cree RGB LED and a whole lot of hope!

I think I have correctly calculated the necessary resistors but I am still a bit confused about determining the watts needed. Also, I should round up to the next resistor if I don't have an exact match right?

Regardless of the research I still need to do, I would appreciate any feedback on my schematic. I would rather spend 6 months redrawing/calculating until I get it right than to rush in and ruin my first build attempt. This will determine if I continue to try becoming a decent saber builder or just paying someone to do it for me.

I would rather do it myself!

Here is my schematic.

[Paedryn]

It has been a few days without a response lol. I thought I would try it again by bumping it. Not a big deal, I just would rather get the thumbs up before I make a mistake.

[minorhero]

I am as far from an expert as can be found. But I am pretty sure that your switch is wired wrong. Also you need a momentary switch not a latching one.

[bigkevin61]

If I am reading your diagram correctly, the upper left post on your switch is the LED +, and the lower left post is the LED - ?

If so, you have the negative (orange) wire from the LED - post returning to the battery +, when it should be to the battery - (this could also go to the BAT - on the board as well).

Now, these AV switches do not have + & - switch posts, per se (meaning they do not have indicated polarity, and could be wired in either direction), BUT on page 5 of the Pico Crumble 2.1 manual, it indicates that the battery + connects to a switch post, and the other switch post returns to the ACT - pad on the board. In your diagram, you have that backwards (the battery - wired to the switch post).

That page in the manual diagrams the Battery, Board, LED and the (activation part of the) Switch connections.

What the store lacks on the Illuminated AV Switch product pages, is a clear “pin out” diagram (though it does show a pic of the pins, with the small dot indicator for the LED + post). The post are paired across from each other (180 degrees opposite). There is a rectangular depression on the bottom of the switch, and the two posts that it stretches out to, are the switch activation pins. The other two pins are for the interior LED, with the positive post on the side with the dot/circle depression (usually colored in if bought from the store).

Here is my diagram of an Illuminated AV switch for. Pico Crumble 2.1 (sorry I didn’t have orange, so the - wire is green)
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I hope this helps!


Edit: looking at your diagram closer, you MAY have the switch posts labeled and wired correct, but I cannot read the small letters you wrote in the led. If that is the case, you then just probably colored the one wire coming from the battery + orange by mistake. Sorry, it is just a bit hard to see!

[Paedryn]

Thanks for the responses!
And thank you minorhero, I keep writing it in as latching despite the manual stating only momentary switches. Getting old I guess.
First, I apologise for the poor image. Starting from the top left and rotating clockwise I labeled it L+, S+, L-, S- . S is for the switch and L is for the LED in the switch. With the how to video, I understood that two tabs were for the switch and two for the LED and to verify by running a current to find the LED. I used a simplified diagram for ease of wiring.

My interpretation of page 5 was the POS + Switch post went to the board and the NEG - Switch post returned to the BATTERY POS +.
I am definitely a novice, so I am really unsure now. You are saying that the activation pad runs to the Switch NEG - and the Switch POS + runs to the BATTERY POS +, correct?

[bigkevin61]

Thanks for the responses!
And thank you minorhero, I keep writing it in as latching despite the manual stating only momentary switches. Getting old I guess.
First, I apologise for the poor image. Starting from the top left and rotating clockwise I labeled it L+, S+, L-, S- . S is for the switch and L is for the LED in the switch. With the how to video, I understood that two tabs were for the switch and two for the LED and to verify by running a current to find the LED. I used a simplified diagram for ease of wiring.
Ok, that makes sense, you got that correct just presented it in your diagram the way you did.
I checked my uploaded image, and it looks like the forum compresses the file to a smaller image, as I could barely read what I wrote, and in the original pic it is much more clear. So apparently it may be hard to read forum posts pictures with small details!


My interpretation of page 5 was the POS + Switch post went to the board and the NEG - Switch post returned to the BATTERY POS +.
I am definitely a novice, so I am really unsure now. You are saying that the activation pad runs to the Switch NEG - and the Switch POS + runs to the BATTERY POS +, correct?
If you are running a wire from the Battery Positive (directly from the battery itself, OR from any connection that is wired directly to the Battery Positive, as say the BAT+ pad on the board), to ONE of the Switch Posts on the Momentary AV switch, and from the OPPOSITE Switch Post on the AV switch, run a wire to the ACT pad on the board, you will wire it correctly.
I believe that is what you are doing when you say “POS + Switch post went to the board and the NEG - Switch post returned to the BATTERY POS +”.

In the manual page 5, the image under General Wiring, this is the purple wire in the diagram.

I think the confusion is that the switch posts so not have dedicated, assigned polarity, so there really isn’t a “switch + post” or “switch - post” on the switch per se. In this way, it acts like the speaker, where it doesn’t matter which DIRECTION you wire the two Speaker Posts on the Speaker, as long as they connect to the correct pads on the board. In the switch’s case, one post to the ACT pad, the other to the Battery Positive.

I hope that makes more sense.

[Paedryn]

Yes sir it does make sense.

Thanks for talking it out with me, the extra explanation helped clear things up.

[Paedryn]

bigkevin do you have a build log for your Sunfire build? I have been tossing around an idea for matching sabers and I want to do it with an orange scheme. Your Sunfire is gorgeous and I would love to see what you did.

[bigkevin61]

bigkevin do you have a build log for your Sunfire build? I have been tossing around an idea for matching sabers and I want to do it with an orange scheme. Your Sunfire is gorgeous and I would love to see what you did.
Not as such. The post with the Sunfire is glams, and select build pics. Unfortunately I haven’t had the time to repost pictures on a free hosting site, and re-link the pics (they currently are on photobucket, but I’m not paying $100 a year for 3rd party hosting, which lets those links work).

The only thing *I* did was modify the speaker mount. I cut channels for an accent Led in the pommel, drill a hole for the covertec clip screw (to lock the mount in place), and had to drill and tap new holes for the rod for the chassis I built (for the thinner ribbed extension part I had the battery and sound card in.
The thing is, I learned SO much doing that build, I wouldn’t do it the same way if I started over again (mostly for the wiring layout).

I’ll look into doing the post update soon, to get those build pics back up.

Is there any thing in particular you wanted to see? The “Jollipop Copper Orange” semi transparent powder coat is just amazing in person, though back then Tim was offering partial powder coated parts (he only does full pieces now).


ADDED: Link to the Sunfire Post (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?17403-Sunfire-My-First-Complete-Saber)

[Paedryn]

I expect that I will be looking back at this build and wondering why I did what I did also lol.

Honestly I like the entire look you created. It is well designed with switch/recharge port on the "box" piece you used. I would assume you could flip it to sit in either direction. I also really like the use of color to accent and combine an balanced, pleasing look, rather than an entire hilt with only one or two colors. And I really like the Jollipop Copper Orange! Sometimes it is better to see the colors on a complete hilt to appreciate its impact.

Thank you for the link. I promise not to steal your design! But with your permission I would like to let it inspire my own in the future.

[bigkevin61]

Yes, I could have flipped the 3" Fluted part 180 degrees (and had the box with the Recharge Port Pommel side, and the AV Switch Emitter side). I chose this way, as it was for my 9 yo (at the time) son, and it fit his hand better that way.
Though I did ask Tim to align the parts with this "backwards" orientation in mind. I didn't test to see if I could flip it "right ways" and still have everything line up.

The Jollipop Copper Orange looks great on unmilled surfaces (like the 0.75" Extension), and still looks cool, but a little different in the flutes (as there isn't a polished surface in those milled sections, that makes the "semi-transparent" Powder Coat colors look less "reflective").

The "Challenge" with this build was the Ribbed Section (which has a smaller ID) mating with the 0.75" Extension by the pommel (with an standard ID), and the ribbed section having to house the battery & board.

Thanks for the praise on the design!! I think it turned out awesome, with essentially 4 colors (Wet Black, Black Chrome, Jollipop Copper Orange, and bare Aluminum). I too like a bit more contrast than say a "two tone" or "plain silver tube" look! Unfortunately, I don't think Tim offers the partial Powder Coating Options anymore. The Current build (for the Daughter) is 100% Powder Coated, with NO bare Aluminum exposed. I like how it turned out, but is does seem to be lacking just that little bit.

As for "Stealing my Design", hey, these are all MHS Parts! I'm sure SOMEONE made a saber that LOOKS similar to this before, so "take Inspiration" all you like!
I personally LIKE the look of some of the advanced shroud work other builders use, but I can't help but think some of their designs are more "Flash" than "Function". I prefer "naked" sabers in that respect, so Powder Coating becomes the medium of customization...

[Paedryn]

i admit that the first time I saw that blade holder (Style 24 I think) I thought it looked weird. To big of a head. But after seeing it in your build I understand its appeal! It creates a feel for a cross/hand guard or a tsuba on a Japanese katana. It is an amazing piece!

I ran to the MHS builder and started playing around and came up with a few ideas based on it. I used the wet black and gold powder coats. I could see using a full 40" blade on the first two and keep the pike a little shorter, maybe 34" just to keep it more manageable. Or maybe just keep em all max length lol!

The first was a 15 inch hilt that is based off of the Nodachi (large sword).

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Next I added the knurled sections giving it the basic look of an ITO wrapping on a katana.

16258

And just for fun, a 20 inch "Light Pike"

16259

i dont know if the last one would be viable as a saber, but it would be fun! I like seeing the adapters in gold. It breaks up the single color and adds a classier look. Most likely it would be an older model from the height of the Republic before the Empire. You could use any contrasting colors you wanted of course, but i thought the black was more of a traditional color of a katana. But the gold could easily be changed to almost any color, blue, green, red, orange, silver, etc.