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Keivan
12-22-2017, 10:22 PM
hi all

i am having problems with my saber starting up, i attached a video, the saber starts up, and immediately shuts off, any idea what could be wrong. i checked to make sure the battery are fully charged. and i looked to see if there is any shorts, but i m running out of ideas as to what else could be wrong for it to do that, it was working fine few days ago but now all of a sudden don't want to stay on

any help is greatly appreciated

Keivan
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vBi7LnY_mzA

Tom Tilmon
12-22-2017, 10:42 PM
Battery is tripping. The protection circuit is tripping.

Tom

Keivan
12-22-2017, 10:47 PM
Battery is tripping. The protection circuit is tripping.

Tom

forgive my ignorance what dose Tripping mean?

Keivan
12-22-2017, 11:29 PM
Battery is tripping. The protection circuit is tripping.

Tom
what would the solution be for this case do you think?

best
K

Tom Tilmon
12-23-2017, 07:08 AM
So, most of these Protected Circuit Lithium Ion batteries have a "protected circuit" system on them. You can buy your own here at TCSS to make your own pack. The circuit is designed to trip at certain amps, spikes in discharges, or at a certain voltage (while charging). When I say trip, I mean the circuit takes the battery out of the loop when these events trigger the protection circuit to do so. That is what makes these batteries considered "protected circuit".

So, I think your saber blades are tripping the circuit on your battery, because as soon as the strips start lighting up, your board re-boots. This is a pretty solid giveaway that your battery tripped. Are you using the 5 amp or 10 amp protected circuit battery? If you're using the former, change over to TCSS new 10 amp protected circuit. That should solve the issue for you.

Tom

Keivan
12-23-2017, 10:10 AM
I want to thank you for helping me Tom, how can I find out which one im using the 5 or 10? i dont see anything on the battery it self, I know the battery Im using is 18650 3.7V/2600 mAh,


So, most of these Protected Circuit Lithium Ion batteries have a "protected circuit" system on them. You can buy your own here at TCSS to make your own pack. The circuit is designed to trip at certain amps, spikes in discharges, or at a certain voltage (while charging). When I say trip, I mean the circuit takes the battery out of the loop when these events trigger the protection circuit to do so. That is what makes these batteries considered "protected circuit".

So, I think your saber blades are tripping the circuit on your battery, because as soon as the strips start lighting up, your board re-boots. This is a pretty solid giveaway that your battery tripped. Are you using the 5 amp or 10 amp protected circuit battery? If you're using the former, change over to TCSS new 10 amp protected circuit. That should solve the issue for you.

Tom

Keivan
12-23-2017, 10:18 AM
would you be able to tell me what battery and which item i need to get from TCSS?

Squimboos
12-23-2017, 02:09 PM
It's the 3.7v 3200 mah one. It says 10A in the description as well

Tom Tilmon
12-23-2017, 08:09 PM
would you be able to tell me what battery and which item i need to get from TCSS?

This one: 10A Panasonic Protected Circuit 18650 from TCSS (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Panasonic-Li-Ion-18650-37V-10A-3200mAh-PCB-Protected-Rechargeable-Battery-P1282.aspx)

BTW, you're welcome. I'm thankful to Madcow's videos/tutorials and all the help I've received here. I love building sabers! This hobby combines my many loves/skills. Model building, soldering, wiring planning, testing of circuits, and Star Wars! Anything I can do to pay that forward is a bonus to me! I hope you get this thing licked. Trust your wiring. Here lately with these strips, and with many other complex builds, batteries are oft the culprit. Batteries are a pretty big culprit on my Kylo Sabers. They tripped a lot, because there are moments where the draw spikes were enough to trip them. I have changed batteries and ended that issue on the Kylo sabers.

Tom

Keivan
12-23-2017, 08:20 PM
thats perfect but wondering would i be able to use the 18650 3400? on it as well or just the 3200?


This one: 10A Panasonic Protected Circuit 18650 from TCSS (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Panasonic-Li-Ion-18650-37V-10A-3200mAh-PCB-Protected-Rechargeable-Battery-P1282.aspx)

BTW, you're welcome. I'm thankful to Madcow's videos/tutorials and all the help I've received here. I love building sabers! This hobby combines my many loves/skills. Model building, soldering, wiring planning, testing of circuits, and Star Wars! Anything I can do to pay that forward is a bonus to me! I hope you get this thing licked. Trust your wiring. Here lately with these strips, and with many other complex builds, batteries are oft the culprit. Batteries are a pretty big culprit on my Kylo Sabers. They tripped a lot, because there are moments where the draw spikes were enough to trip them. I have changed batteries and ended that issue on the Kylo sabers.

Tom

Keivan
12-23-2017, 08:24 PM
It's the 3.7v 3200 mah one. It says 10A in the description as well

how about the 3.7 3400 would that work too?
thanks for your respond.
K

Tom Tilmon
12-23-2017, 11:39 PM
the 3200 and 3400 numbers you are referencing are the milliamp hours. That is how long the battery is rated to last at a given draw. The bigger the number, the longer the run time. Many manufacturers exaggerate these numbers.

The number you need to be paying attention to for this build is the Amperage cutoff limiter on the Protected Circuit on the battery. The 5 Amp battery, the one you're currently using isn't working. You need the 10 Amp protected Circuit. A couple hundred MAH won't matter but a few minutes +/-. Your problem has been battery tripping. You won't be able to get any run time out of a battery that trips. I linked the battery that TCSS put out there specifically for these builds. Tim and the brains at TCSS know what they're doing, trust in the force.

Tom

Keivan
12-24-2017, 12:28 AM
I'm with the force and the force is with me,
thank you Tom



the 3200 and 3400 numbers you are referencing are the milliamp hours. That is how long the battery is rated to last at a given draw. The bigger the number, the longer the run time. Many manufacturers exaggerate these numbers.

The number you need to be paying attention to for this build is the Amperage cutoff limiter on the Protected Circuit on the battery. The 5 Amp battery, the one you're currently using isn't working. You need the 10 Amp protected Circuit. A couple hundred MAH won't matter but a few minutes +/-. Your problem has been battery tripping. You won't be able to get any run time out of a battery that trips. I linked the battery that TCSS put out there specifically for these builds. Tim and the brains at TCSS know what they're doing, trust in the force.

Tom