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Whiskey2015
11-10-2017, 12:31 PM
Again this annoying guy from Germany. 🙄

I have just completed my first saber with a NB4. and I'm really excited. except for a little problem. It can only be turned off sometimes. I usually hold the button, but it keeps going. Sometimes it helps to push a second or third time, but usually not.

Do you have a tip?

Whosle
11-10-2017, 02:36 PM
That is the APOP "accidental power Off protection". Its meant to stop you from accidentally turning off the saber mid-battle.

You need to hold it down a bit longer to turn it off ,than on.

There is a time amount setting you can adjust as well.

Some people like it, others don't.

Whiskey2015
11-10-2017, 02:51 PM
I know. But no Matter how long I hold the switch down, the saber won't turn off.

Tom Tilmon
11-10-2017, 08:46 PM
bad switch? Bad solder joint? Short in wire. Measure continuity over your switch wire while you depress and release the switch. If you get an unsteady reading or tone, I'd say you have a switch or wire issue.

Tom

Whiskey2015
11-11-2017, 02:24 AM
I've tested a few more:

Error occurs when Saber was in Deep Sleep mode. When I reboot the saber by Killswitch a few times, suddenly it works. And if once it has worked, it will continue to work. Until the next deep sleep. All the other features, such as MotG, Changing Banks, which require a long press of the button, work well.

So I do not really think it's because of the wiring or the switch. I'll still check again. Hello, Multimeter, old friend.

But first I try to deactivate APOP at all Banks, and see what's happen.

Whiskey2015
11-11-2017, 08:52 AM
Update: if I set "offd" to a value below 10, there seems to be no problem anymore.

Except that sometimes I turn off the Saber at the "Swirl from inverted". ��

I tested the wiring completely, that's not the reason.

Strange. ��

Whosle
11-11-2017, 09:41 AM
Weird, but I think there must be a little short in there.

You mentioned that you wrapped the NBv4 in foam and then shrink tubing.

The solder joints might have a little stress on them, or there is short where it touches the inside of the hilt.

Whiskey2015
11-13-2017, 04:58 AM
The inner tube, that Hold the Electronics, is completely from plastics. No Chance to produce a short, that way.

The Board is slightly! shrinked in, just it can't strip off. And the Contacts are not in the shrinktube. I soldered a 7-pin/90 Degree pin Header to the board, connected with a 7pin jst-plug (old balancer Plug from a 6s Lipo-Battery. L3 is not connected. The wires are Crimped directly to the plug, so no chance for a cold solderpoint or so at that place. All double checked for continuity, short circuit and loose contacts.

Don't be angry, but I also build RC helicopters and I am used to wire clean. If such a helicopter with two (real!) 80-cm Blades, spinning at 2500rpm, going out of control because of bad wiring, that's not funny. Better run! And that's how I work on my Sabers, too.

At least, I wonder why all functions of the saber work fine, except switching off, if offd set on a value above 10. A Issue in wiring should also have effect on all other functions wich requires a longer press on the button. Don't you think?

If we just assume that the wiring is ok: are there any other options?

Is it possible, for example, to reboot the board deeply?

Can there be an effect if the Speaker wires are to close to the board? (5mm spacing).

Or is there a voodoo dance that you can recommend to me?:D

Just kidding!

Best Greets @you all!

Whiskey2015
11-20-2017, 03:24 PM
Hello everyone, here is a little update:

another NBV4 works without any problems with the same wiring in the same saber. On the board where the problem occurred, is now also the AMP defective. I do not know if it has anything to do with it. Suddenly the sound failed and the board became extremely hot. Well, fortunately a buddy can fix the board for me.

Let's see how it goes afterwards. And, above all, let me see what I build next. I can not get the idea of ​​bamboo cane out of my head. , Another Saber? Hmmm...