Chassis Disc's

[HardDrive]

I see some for MHSV2 and then others that just say MWS and other that say for "PC" and for "NB and then another that just says for "recharge port" So my question is this. what ones can I use in my hilt that I built using the MHS builder I am pretty confident about the ones that say MHSV2 but the others I have no idea..
Can someone clear this up for me please?

[darth_chasm]

V2 discs are for V2 parts which are not in the MHS builder. You'll want the discs here http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Chassis-Parts-C74.aspx

Which ones you use depend on your electronics set up and the configuration of your hilt. If you post a pic and more details we can help better.

[HardDrive]

I believe all pertinent information can be found on this post. http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/showthread.php?21856-My-first-saber-build not much more information to offer up at this point I am just starting to design my internal chassis so looking at what disks to use is my first step. My hilt is a bit long so I hope to use several for different components spread out through out the hilt.

[HardDrive]

AH and I think I figured out what the NB and PC are in reference to, Nano Biscotte and Pico Crumble

[darth_chasm]

AH and I think I figured out what the NB and PC are in reference to, Nano Biscotte and Pico Crumble

Close. PC=Petite Crouton

Ok, saw the behemoth you built ;) You have two different ID's going on in that design so you will have to design your chassis with that in mind. The ribbed section has an ID of 1.15" so you'll want to use discs of that size in that section. The other parts are 1.25" ID.

As I said, you'll want to use items in the MHS chassis section. Not V2.

This is a good video to watch https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dtFeuIbQxRc

[HardDrive]

Awesome information that you provided thats not in the videos. :p I have watched them ALL, well except the ones of the machining ones.
And yeah I have that link open in another tab already to pick and choose.:p

Thank you very much, you answered what I needed to know!

[darth_chasm]

Cool. Glad to help.

[HardDrive]

Close. PC=Petite Crouton

Ok, saw the behemoth you built ;)

In my defense it fits both my hands perfectly Being 6'1 and 300lbs I am told I have gorilla hands...

With that being said from what I have seen it looks like it is best to have the board with its sensors closer to the blade for best motion detection, So I was thinking a two part chassis. Main electronics in the upper section with battery speaker and my recharge board in the lower. And yes its a recharge board I am going to be using it utilizes a micro usb to charge the 3.7 volt battery pack. :)

[darth_chasm]

In my defense it fits both my hands perfectly Being 6'1 and 300lbs I am told I have gorilla hands...

I was just busting your chops :)

You don't necessarily have to have the board up near the emitter. It can be at the pommel end as well. And most boards have sensitivity settings you can adjust. You simply want to avoid the spinning center.

From a Plecter labs manual:

"Placement & Installation
Ideally, the module is placed in the hilt so that:
- the motion sensor is at 1” or more from the spinning center of the hilt
- the SD card remains easily accessible.
Usually the pommel area is a good choice, however hilts made of 2 halves can havethe board installed in the top side of the saber."

In my opinion, you're creating more work for yourself trying to get the board in the top half. First, as mentioned in the citation above, SD access would be a pain. Second, you would have to get a blank disc to mod and drill to accept the differing holes patterns of the 1.15" and 1.25" acrylic discs. But youd still have a bear of a time getting to the SD card.

The less headaches way is simply get a locking style disc to use between the ribbed section and main handle. That would secure the rest of the chassis in place. You could make pretty much the same chassis as in Madcow's video.

[HardDrive]

I was just busting your chops :)

you would have to get a blank disc to mod and drill to accept the differing holes patterns of the 1.15" and 1.25" acrylic discs.


Maybe I am looking at this wrong but wouldn't http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Chassis-Disc-style-2-with-holes-P598.aspx Help with that very thing? although in all honesty I was thinking about 2 small chassis one up front and another in the lower part. I am not sure that would be more complicated as it would actually free up some space with the battery being apart from the electronics, guess it would be a trade off really. more space here, extra disks there. Ah well if it was simple I would get bored. :) you made some really good points for consideration and I really appreciate all the input!

OH I did decide that I am going to go simple with the sound board and use the Pico Crumble so no SD card to worry about there!

[darth_chasm]

Ah you're right. If you're using the 1.15" discs for the board only they do match up. My bad. I've only ever used the board and battery combo and know they don't match up.

Does the Pico fit those discs? You may have to mod a little bit. Not sure. I've never even looked at the Pico specs ;)

You wont have any problem with space. All jokes aside, considering the size of the hilt and the electronics you've chosen, you will have oceans of space.

[HardDrive]

Does the Pico fit those discs? You may have to mod a little bit. Not sure. I've never even looked at the Pico specs ;)


Not sure I looked at the specs but TCSS has the NB in inches and the owners manual for the crumble is in mm. and I did not feel like doing the conversions atm either way I have a dremel ;)

as far as the 'Oceans" go I was also thinking about running 2 3.7volt battery's in parallel to get longer run time, even though I don't really think I am going to need it. At this point its just a "might might not do"
the usb charging board I got states it can handle charging multiple battery's in parallel, just increases the charge time .